O'Driù brings Niche back to its place (Olfactive Obsessions)

[Foustie]

LADAMO

Wow! Bosky, bosky, bosky.

The first man. The genesis of man. Don't expect the smooth chested, lithe hipped, Adam of renaissance art. This Adam is the man, a he man. Grrrrrrr. This Adam walks on bare feet in a really bosky terrain. He is a hunter gatherer. In fact, to me this fragrance is more suggestive of a terrain than of a man.

Dense to begin, opening and drying over time. Black liquorice, a pronounced dry dusty immortelle, fenugreek, ginger, galbanum. A dry bushy terrain. Then wood and tobacco, dried grass, rich and dry.

Based on first impressions this reads as an immortelle driven fragrance. But if you take time, try on paper and skin, consider the concept, the notes, you will discover much more. But actually I don't think that the importance of these O'Driu fragrances is in the breakdown of their notes. It is in the emotional reaction to the whole experience.

 

[alfarom]

I love that review Foustie! Adam walking on bare feet made my day Love ya!

 

[trex57]

Great review, Foustie, I've worn it a couple of times myself. I think you're spot on. I've been through Leva as well. Although, noted as feminine it is effortlessly unisex. I hope you get to try it and post another review.

 

[Foustie]

I love that review Foustie! Adam walking on bare feet made my day Love ya!

Love ya back! :smiley:

Hi trex57.

Let me tell you that I was still intimate with Adam for maybe fifteen hours yesterday and even after a bath! So no concerns about longevity. The deep, deep drydown was very close to the skin but tenacious. More human in the end actually, with a spicy accord, the fenugreek note definately, and a suggestion of cumin, and also a note not unlike asafoetida, so back we go to the immortelle!

I should conclude by saying that Ladamo was an exploration for me. It is not a fragrance that I would wear. But for those who favour immortelle, curry spices, or perhaps even those who are into dry tobacco fragrances it is really worth trying.

 

[alfarom]

today was LALFEOGRIGIO and, believe me, it was just WOW!

LALFEOGRIGIO:
TOP NOTES
orange, elemi, jasmine, rose

MIDDLE NOTES
broad bean tonka, geranium, wormwood, capsicum

BASE NOTES
sandal, musk, angelica, tobacco, coffee

Lalfeogrigio blew me away! Literally! I don't know where to start as there is really a lot going on here...

Ok, first of all I learned that the perfume pyramid above it's just indicative. Appearantly it should represent what the fragrance is supposed to evoke with its main accords. When you purchase the full bottle (or sample), the packaging comes with an additional list of actual notes that in this case includes more than 50 (fifty) ingredients involved in the making of this concoction (allergenics excluded). If, for certain reasons, this may sound a bit pretentious or off-putting, at the same time Lalfeogrigio delivers exactly what he promises: a huge fragrance.

What it smells like? I guess this is one of those compositions that may change depending on the wearer. Don't get me wrong, in this specific case, I'm not saying that your body chemistry will make the difference but, considering the incredible amounts of ingredients involved, it really depends on how much you are sensitive to certain notes instead of others. Me? I get an initial blast of culinary herbs and spices (Piper Nigrum, Sage, Cumin, Laurel, Oreganum, Rosemary) that is arresting to say the least. As previously experienced with other compositions from the same house, the opening is brutal, unpretty, rough...If you're familiar with Villoresi's fragrances you'll probably know what I'm talking about. Sort of an ugly duckling type of stuff.

If you survived to the initial "assault" you're now ready to be treated to a consistent amount of resins (Boswellia Sacra, Boswellia Carteri, Myrrh, Styrax). The transition is repentine but skilfully handled by introducing an extremely sophisticated floral accord (rose and jasmine) joined by vanilla and tonka beans. In this phase, Lalfeogrigio plays the juxtapositions game contrasting the sweet base with a strong masculine vibe provided by geranium, leathery castoreum, spices and absynth/lavender. WOW it's musky too! Perfectly balanced!

If this may sound a bit over the top, let me tell you it's not. Everything is so detailed and clearly detectable just like an high resolution picture. The main point of streght of Lalfeogrigio is to be incredibly bold but at the same time never loud or vulgar...pure symphonic perfumery. Another remarkable aspect is that everything smells incredibly natural (as opposed to synthetic) which, nowadays, is quite a plus...

I could go on saying what else I detect but I prefer to stop it here. Just let me write a list of fragrances/brands that popped up (is it gramatically correct? Anyone?) in my mind while wearing this outstanding concoction...

Parfum Sacre, Jicky (and other Guerlains), Musc Ravageur, YSL Nu EDP, Black Cashmere, A Taste of Heaven, Santa Maria Novella, Villoresi, Ambre Sultan, Ambre Precieux...

Mandatory for anyone into outstanding drydowns.

 

[sarıpatates]

I'm now officially hyped.
Only the mention of musc ravageur provides a warning but the main review dismisses that.

me wants

 

[alfarom]

I'm now officially hyped.
Only the mention of musc ravageur provides a warning but the main review dismisses that.

me wants

Let me tell you Sari that those names are not necessarely linked to Lalfeogrigio. They just came to mind as a sort of stream of consciusness...I decided to include them in my review just to give an idea of the several levels of appreciation that this fragrance can deliver...

 

[sarıpatates]

Yeah that's how I understood it. I do it myself too.
I like my sweets finely balanced, and this one seems balanced, complex and with a punch.
I'm just, as always, overly cautious with "warmth"

 

[alfarom]

I like my sweets finely balanced, and this one seems balanced, complex and with a punch.

Same here and I'm honestly glad it delivered exactly what I expected...Let me add that, so far, this is the most easily approachable in the house' range but consider that I still have to test 10 more

 

[alfarom]

On a side note: this guy is a sucker for lavender

 

[hedonist222]

Excited.....getting...more...

 

[flouris]

Wow how have I never seen this thread before? Thank you alfarom for bringing this house to my attention, I'm going to attempt to email them for samples. These look incredibly promising!

 

[Foustie]

LEVA

It would be unwise to underestimate Leva, there is more to her than it first appears.........

Leva is a story. An olfactory story. Screened in fast forward.

Grapefruit, Jasmine, Black Pepper
Curcuma, Vanilla, Jatamansi
Lemongrass, Benzoin

If you have been fortunate enough to try other fragrances in this range, the opening of Leva will surprise you because it is very different from the others. The list of notes cites Lemongrass in the base but to me Leva begins with Grapefruit and lemongrass, enhanced with ginger. It is a yellow thing, bright and optimistic. Sunny. The notes are very natural, very true. It seems simple, too simple....

But soon, something happens, something familiar, yet unfamiliar, creeps in, you know that you should recognise it but for a moment it is elusive, and then suddenly you realise that it is jasmine, but an hallucinogenic jasmine, difficult, not pretty. All of a sudden this simple thing has become discordant, conflicted.

If you are anything like me, you may find jasmine a difficult mistress. Beautiful and menacing in equal measure. Leva is no longer golden, it is green and white, the topnotes are incongruent with the jasmine, it speeds up, it is uneasy, the jasmine dominates now, it is screeching..... You are about to say stop when all of a sudden it is OK. The ginger gains ground, it is warmer, it calms the whole, the jasmine softens. Instead of conflict we have harmony, relief.

Then, a surprising softness, vanilla, benzoin, as soft as a mothers caress. Now,The Stockholm Syndrome. The captive falls in love with with the captor. The wearer falls in love with the fragrance.....

**********

Leva was not what I expected. Having experienced Ladamo, I expected that she would be an earth mother, verdant, fecund, but she is not.
I have tried her several times. Just now I have gone back to the narrative that comes with the fragrance. The narrative that I confess I found so amusing at first, and I can't believe that I see "under the sun" listed as a note (the beginning), and "the nightmare that reveals the pleasure" (the middle). I can't believe it!! Really, I can't believe it. How does he do it?

Like the other O'Driu fragrances there are a huge number of notes listed in Leva. You will see that I have only talked about a few, but this is my honest overall impression. I totally support Alfarom's assertion that each individual may experience these fragrances differently, not just because of ones ability to recognise notes, or ones sensitivity to certain notes, but also because they will take you on an experience which will engage your emotions, your memory, and your imagination....

 

[drseid]

I too just discovered this thread today. I also just emailed them to see if they would ship samples to the States, as the notes in Linfedele 1003 in particular look right up my alley. That said, I am afraid to like it because I don't see how I could justify the approximate $600 price tag no matter how good it might be... Still would love to see what it smells like though... Thanks for making us aware of this little known house Alfarom!

 

[trex57]

drseid-Sadly, thats whats stopping me. I cant do that much money. I've been obsessing over the juice that I have left. I hope TPC or ALZD get it but I have my doubts.

 

[flouris]

I had no idea these were $600 each. Total turnoff, not into supporting companies who use high price points to make a statement.

 

[Beranium Chotato]

Did I miss the part on where to get samples?

 

[drseid]

I had no idea these were $600 each. Total turnoff, not into supporting companies who use high price points to make a statement.

Some of them are not that price (but at least one is even more). The one I think I will like most happens to be about that price though (380 Euros). I know what you mean about being turned off. It does make you not want to like them, as it is very difficult for most folks (myself included) to pay that kind of dough on any one scent. That said, while I can't see myself buying a bottle (maybe i could participate in a split), my inquisitive nature can't resist the temptation of trying the line out.

 

[drseid]

Did I miss the part on where to get samples?

There is an email someone posted earlier in the thread.

 

[alfarom]

I too just discovered this thread today. I also just emailed them to see if they would ship samples to the States, as the notes in Linfedele 1003 in particular look right up my alley. That said, I am afraid to like it because I don't see how I could justify the approximate $600 price tag no matter how good it might be... Still would love to see what it smells like though... Thanks for making us aware of this little known house Alfarom!

Prices are actually confusing. Many of these fragrances have been released specifically for customers who asked Pregoni for a personalized composition. They're pretty much all released in very limited quantities with incredibly precious bottles and, therefore, extremely high priced (not all of them though, as most of the line is around 250 euros which is surely not more than Puredistance, Roja Dove or Xerjoff). Now that the brand seems to try to expand, maybe they will increase their production and, maybe, resize their prices as well...let's see...

On the other hand, the idea I'm getting by exploring this line and their philosophy, is that these fragrances are exactly at the opposite of the spectrum of the so-called "industrial-products". It's like having an original painting on your wall, or having a simple reproduction...

I would ever buy a full bottle of any? I don't know, I don't exclude it but, so far, I can say that some of this stuff is extremely solid.

If you have been fortunate enough to try other fragrances in this range, the opening of Leva will surprise you because is very different from the others.

This is a FANTASTIC news Foustie. I was actually a little worried about the strong signature that could have turned into a sort of limit...

 

[MonkeyBars]

Is there a place on the web where we can see a complete list of the line and their notes? You mention an additional 10 to try . . . Their website does not list Lalfeogrigio for example.

 

[alfarom]

Is there a place on the web where we can see a complete list of the line and their notes? You mention an additional 10 to try . . . Their website does not list Lalfeogrigio for example.

I added them all to the BN directory yesterday (excluding the 4 in the Prefhumance line which were released in 4 pieces only)...they should appear soon..

 

[cloud9]

Wow how have I never seen this thread before? Thank you alfarom for bringing this house to my attention, I'm going to attempt to email them for samples. These look incredibly promising!

Everything said here

 

[Foustie]

LINFEDELE 1003

The fragrance is accompanied by prose from Charles Baudelaire's "Spleen", a creepy bleak disturbing poem....

Leather, Laurel, Pine, Orange
Incense, Galbanum, Tobacco, Styrax
Juniper, Myrrh, Myrtle, Tobacco, Styrax

The fragrance itself is expansively green, and cold. I think that it should be tried on paper to fully appreciate that.

The first blast is refreshing, herbal, slightly bitter, a bit like an herbal apertif. On skin it becomes a bit more balsamic quite quickly, whereas on paper it retains its icy greenness. On me, notes seem to come and go throughout the development, pine, herbs, sage and thyme in particular but there is also juniper, lavender, artemisia, oregano and others listed in the notes. Galbanum clearly plays an important part. Although it does become a bit more balsamic at times (think fir balsam, and it does have styrax listed) it remains underscored with an astringent chill. At times a cool mint comes through and it is quite dominant. Mint is not listed in the main, abbreviated, description, but it is definately there and I did find it in the long list. There are many listed notes that I don't smell, and you might.

To me, the heart of this fragrance is camphoraceous, piney, minty, herbal with a cold character.

LINFEDELE 1004

"Wild Savage Notes", Dill, Orange, Turmeric
Coffee, Toasted Kamut (grain), Petitgrain, Clove, Patchouli
Incense, Ylang Ylang, Cardamom, Myrrh, Vanilla

As 1003, but LOADED with CUMIN, Coffee, and Toasted Notes, which change the character considerably. Again, Cumin is not noted in the short list but it is there in abundance and again we can see it in the longer list. But what does that matter anyway? These are experiential fragrances.

It is as if an animal has appeared in the landscape, and a pretty stinky one at that. It is far more pungent than 1003, it also has more depth, more presence. It makes 1003 seem very clean, whereas this one is dirty.
I decided after Ladamo that I wasn't going to say anything about whether I liked each fragrance or not, or whether I preferred one to another, because what I like is of no importance whatsoever. It doesn't say anything about these fragrances. So it doesn't matter whcih one I prefer, but I do think that there is a choice to be made. LINFEDELE 1003 and LINFEDELE1004 might divide us. I can't wait!

1004 loses much of the sweat and dirt eventually, (surprisingly, you would think that it would stick around), but it does have a greater complexity in the drydown than 1003, and greater longevity on skin.

A little footnote. I woke up the other morning with the most beautiful green smell all around me, it seemed to fill the room, as if the air was full of cool, forrested oxygen. I had left the paper spills on my nightstand........


Added 25/03/2012
I would say that if 1004 is intended to be the Feminine version of Linfidele and 1003 is intended to be a masculine version then I don't agree with those definitions at all. Preference will be a very personal thing with these fragrances but if we do have to define the two Linfideles by gender then I would say that 1003 is the feminine and 1004 is the masculine.

What do we think?

 

[Foustie]

And incidentally, sorry to be vulgar but I am knackered after that. I don't find this easy. Don't let me deceive you into thinking that the musings above are spontaneous...I have to study them. It takes me a long time. So you will forgive me if I go to the pub now!

 

[alfarom]

Foustie, I'm LOVING your reviews and, most of all, I'm so glad you're enjoying this line. Despite the incredibly challenging price tags, I believe these fragrances are taking the "artistic" aspect of modern perfumery to a completely higher level. The fact they release every composition in very limited quantities is a clear sign that this is not just another greedy project. I started to refer to O'Driù as original paintings as opposed to the concept of industrial reproductions.

As another Basenoter used to say (if memory serves me well he was Sugandaraja), "you don't have to necessarely own a Rembrant to enjoy it".

I really appreciate the way they're doing their own thing. Silent, discreet, not much fuss about it. A concept that in nowadays "loud" market is way much missed. Totally opposed to the vulgar ostentation of opulence of many well known brands I won't name here...Kudos.

 

[Foustie]

I started to refer to O'Driù as original paintings as opposed to the concept of industrial reproductions

Yes, exactly...

 

[MonkeyBars]

alfarom, thank you again for your thorough and informative reviews. some other Italians around here ought to take note of your excellent English as well. Kudos to you my friend

 

[alfarom]

alfarom, thank you again for your thorough and informative reviews. some other Italians around here ought to take note of your excellent English as well. Kudos to you my friend

Thanks MB, I really appreciate that! I hope you'll have the chance to test this stuff pretty soon as I'm very curious to hear your thoughts...

 

[Sugandaraja]

I'm trying Leva today. This thing is weird, very complex, kind of aggressive, but really not in the traditional Poison-esque type of big floral way. In fact I'm not sure I'd call it floral at all.

The opening is a great big blast of complexity. It's sour, dissonant, astringent, kind of harsh, but also very natural smelling, in the sense of natural perfumery, yet I doubt it's truly all natural as it has a distinct forcefulness about it. The top notes are like a cloud of these to my nose:

Lemongrass - Palmarosa - Grapefruit - Passionfruit - Vanilla - Tuberose - Rosewood - Karo Karounde - Powdered Sugar - Leather

Yes, all of that. It's like on axis between an unsweetened Grapefruit Julius and a leather-bound book doused in sugar and floral waters, perhaps some pickling spice mixed in. I'm just a couple hours in and the floral side is emerging more; I'll add more later.

This is very niche, and your opinion on this will probably be split by how you feel about experimental lines like CdG, etc. If you look at fragrance as a place to explore new sensations, try it; if you wear fragrance to smell "nice", well...

I'm not sure if I'd ever own this, but I'm happy it exists!

 

[Sugandaraja]

Weirdly, after the three to four hour mark Leva dries down to a quiet, tangy, vanilla-fragipani scent; I'm at the six hour mark and it's a skin scent, and an uncontroversial one at that. Very top-heavy this one.

 

[alfarom]

Suga, you're describing an O'Driù...no doubts! I'm so glad you got your samples...

While I'm a total freak for CDG's, at the same time I'm not sure I get the comparison, though. Maybe it could make snese for the "experimental" aspect but, overall, O'Driù has a strong artisanship vibe that recalls of ancient worlds and territories as opposed to the general industrial/futurist quality of most of the CDG's...(at least to me).

 

[Foustie]

Weirdly, after the three to four hour mark Leva dries down to a quiet, tangy, vanilla-fragipani scent; I'm at the six hour mark and it's a skin scent, and an uncontroversial one at that. Very top-heavy this one.

Totally agree. All that screeching then a hug! It is a relief. "The nightmare that reveals the pleasure" !!!!!!

Actually Leva is not archetypal in this range, in fact it seems a surprising diversion. The dry down and deep drydown of some of the others is really interesting.

 

[alfarom]

Hello everyone....I've been testing Londa 1005 for the last two days...here's my take


I'm coming to the conlcusion that Mr.Pregoni is the master of the openings! Most of his compositions opens just like a whole opera played in a few minutes. While all this may sound a bit overwhelming and confusing, let me reassure you that everyhting it's incredibly detailed and clear and happens so naturally. Londa 1005 makes no exceptions.

If the name Londa 1005 (which stays for italian L'Onda - The Wave) together with the presence of "salty notes" make you think about an aquatic fragrance, be advised that there's nothing marine/ozonic/ oceanic here, in fact the fragrance opens with a blast of challenging herbs and spices (sage, cumin, pepper and others) paired with a bizarre pine/mint accord and joined by strong, astringent, sort of bitter-and-smoky notes. The house signature is clear and works just like a warning: "We're O'Driù, like it or lump it".

The overall sweaty/animalic vibe is immediately softened by aromatic citruses and other fizzy notes such as lemongrass and ginger that while blending perfectly with the pepper/mint/pine accord, drive the fragrance towards balsamic territories. In this phase there's something that may vaguely remind of Villoresi's Piper Nigrum but don't let this mislead you: Londa 1005 is one of a kind.

All of the above happens in a few minutes and, as I previously said, it's incredibly plausible and natural. It's like taking a thrilling ride on one of those winding slides at the water park. You're shaked, amazed and thrilled to then jump into a refreshing finale into the water.

After the opening, a salty/woody/vetiver base surrounded by the usual amount of herbs and spices, starts to break-in while coniferous notes and lemongrass settle down and serve as necessary refinements. A remarkable musky quality provides some mistery. No sweetness detected throughout. Once again, Londa 1005 is not something for everyone but, If compared to other deliveries from this house, this is surely among the most easily approachable. This is not to say that it's simpler (because it's anything but), but slightly more "familiar".

Let's make it simple: a terrific take on vetiver.

Wether you like it or not, I still think that Pregoni is one of the best things happened to perfumery in the past few years!

 

[Foustie]

Another! Thank You! I am going to come back to your review of Londa 1005 when I have lots of time so that I can really take it all in.

Yes the signature is very strong, and uncompromising I think. We also have some themes developing around the Perfumers "Palette" which I have some thoughts about but I need more time.

Alfarom, more and more I am experiencing these fragrances as Landscapes, stories, and as you say, paintings.

Will come back soon...

 

[Sugandaraja]

Much to my surprise, I got along with Ladamo much better.

To my nose, Ladamo smells like a giant duet between two ingredients: immortelle and celery. There is a hazy mixture of other spices floating around the top ( my best guess is black pepper, ginger, turmeric, and possibly coriander and/or fenugreek, but the latter two are hard to identify against a background of immortelle this strong ), and a bit of patchouli in the base. There is a bit of off-citrus twang in the top akin to Leva's, but it's quite ephemeral.

This is easily the least sweet immortelle fragrance I've worn, and I applaud it on that. Very wearable, however, and I don't think the less adventurous should be scared off by the sound of immortelle and celery. It's balanced and pleasant.

As I love celery in fragrance ( and it can be hard to find ), so I may be up for a split of this one down the road.

 

[MonkeyBars]

As I love celery in fragrance ( and it can be hard to find ), so I may be up for a split of this one down the road.

I don't see Yatagan, Eucris, or Eau des Iles in your wardrobe my friend! Not that hard to find...

 

[Sugandaraja]

I don't see Yatagan, Eucris, or Eau des Iles in your wardrobe my friend! Not that hard to find...

Eucris and Eau de Iles I've yet to try, Yatagan's celery note is pretty mild and non-green compared to Ladamo. Really, this stuff smells like a kilo of celery sauteing on the stove to my nose.

 

[MonkeyBars]

Eucris and Eau de Iles I've yet to try, Yatagan's celery note is pretty mild and non-green compared to Ladamo. Really, this stuff smells like a kilo of celery sauteing on the stove to my nose.

hehe it seems most people are more sensitive to celery than you! some describe Yatagan as celery soup or a steak with celery salt, etc. Eucris and Eau des Iles' celery seed is about the same strength as the Yat to my nose.

 

[Sugandaraja]

Yeah, if Yatagan is too celery prominent for some, then I'd recommend avoiding Ladamo for sure!

I kind of wish I could add it to Mandarine Mandarin to bring up the intriguing celery part of that fragrance.