Monkeybars, you have some great and solid points up there. When it comes to natural perfumery, yes, I've probably tested less than half of the fragrances you tried but I still find O'Driù to be on a higher level than most of the stuff in the same vein/style. What I mean is that to me, they take many of the typical aspects of this tipe of perfumery, and push it a little bit further. The brand is not obsessed by sales, the man he's doing his own thing with honesty with a meticolous research on raw materials.
I was invited to one of his perfomrances in Milan but couldn't go because of my usual hectic shcedule...I hope I'll be able to go sooner or later. The interview was supposed to come with a couple of pictures took during one of his performances but because of male/female nudity Grant decided to not include them in the article (my guess).
Those Brits are so straight-laced compared to laid back Continentals!
On a side note, if you haven't already, I really urge you to explore a couple more "natural" brands. One being Testa Maura (available via Luckyscent). Carticasi and Acqua Di Casta are those to watch out....The other is Abdes Salaam Attar (http://www.profumo.it/perfume/home_english.htm). He's a Basenotes member known as "Profumo". Besides his compositions (all more or less gorgeous), you shouldn't miss the chance to put your nose on his tinctures and oils. He sells pure Castoreum and Civet tinctures that (both terrific) plus real Myspre Sandalwood and other rare olis...
Thanks for the tips! I have tried some of those lines, I think... certainly Testa Maura.
So far my favorite all-natural houses are O'Driu, Bellyflowers, Aveda, and JoAnn Bassett.
Hey MonkeyBars. I loved your reviews of the Linfidele's. I found them really interesting because your impressions of these fragrances are almost identical to mine. I don't mind one iota being disagreed with, but it is really nice to agree too, it gave me a kick and made me smile. :smiley:
Also....Yes, the Ladamo. The fenugreek. Yes, for sure, but I still say that the deep drydown is asafoetida. On paper it will actually remain for weeks, and it is sooooo asafoetida.
It takes a lot of guts to put that in a fragrance! It's the only other "pungent" (a la onions/garlic/leek) note I've ever experienced besides the extraordinary and strange Bogart Witness' chive note. It works amazingly, together with the styrax and musk, almost like an animalic actually.
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I had to take some time off to enjoy my collection for a bit there; I was spending more than half my days trying new stuff and I really missed my favs. (Vintage) Davidoff Zino is the one that's been seriously climbing the charts for me lately.
Lalfeogrigio: This one has the most fun name to say of all of them, I think. Care to hazard a translation, alfa? Well, it's very much in the vein of other O'Driu compositions, but I would say it excels in the area of development -- exceptionally smooth, gradual transitions from the bitter, herbal opening, through the spicy heart and into the resinous, funky drydown. On the whole, Lalfeogrigio does have that thickness of the other O'Drius, but manages to steer clear of being jumbled, while still playing at the far side of wearability density. The main theme for me centers around the surprisingly gratifying interplay between lemongrass and fenugreek (or immortelle). That is a very interesting story -- green, lemony, and rich. After this story has played out over several hours, the supporting cumin accord is revealed, and I must say it's actually a bit much to me. As mentioned before. I appreciate cumin but prefer a mild dose a la Bond Harrods Oud. The cumin is especially animalic here as the castoreum begins to peak out at this stage as well. As is often the case with smoothly transitioning frags, the longevity is especially good here -- though it's not loud, I can clearly detect the last phase after 12 hours! Very unusual for an all-natural, and I think it comes down to quite a solid dose of real castoreum. I think Lalfeogrigio shows the most solid, impressive technique -- performance, in a word -- of the O'Drius I've sampled so far. I can mention my private compositions in the same sentence with O'Driu all I want, but I never spent the time to develop the level of technique Sgn. Pregoni exhibits here. He's the real deal.
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Lalfeorosa: There's an amber theme running through this one -- benzoin and labdanum most likely -- that makes this composition a bit sweeter and more feminine (probably smack in the middle of unisex) than other O'Drius. However, it still uses the same favorite ingredients as others in the line: cumin, wormwood, probably lemongrass and castoreum. There might even be a touch of rose and/or geranium. Good longevity as is usual with O'Driu. Cumin and amber (or anything sweet really) is not a favorite combination of mine so it's not for me. But it's a decent variation on the O'Driu house theme. In fact, this first batch of compositions has an unusually low degree of variation; I'd be hard-pressed to tell some from others without some serious nose training side-by-side.