New, Small, Lesser known, One off, Quirky, Interesting perfumes and perfume brands talk 🦀

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Basenotes Dependent
Feb 5, 2012
Did anyone try these already?
I received my bottle of Tabac Libre from Angelos Créations Olfactives the other day. I would have lost my mind over this fragrance if I hadn't recently received my bottle of American Pharaoh from Folkwinds. Both are a similar take on a dark syrupy Tobacco paired with a zingy cherry note, but American Pharaoh blows Tabac Libre out of the water in terms of quality of materials, blending skills and packaging.

Don't get me wrong, Tabac Libre is a lovely fragrance and it's performance is very respectable, but it would be redundant if you plan on purchasing American Pharaoh.

I have a sample of Fougeriste that should be coming with a LuckyScent purchase that is currently on backorder. Looking forward to trying that one out too.
 

exquisitecrops

Basenotes Member
Sep 3, 2022
I've been smelling a bunch of Canadian indies:

....
Jazmin Sarai
This is the stuff I'd love to see in Sephora. Accessible scent profiles with some of quirk and higher quality naturals. The texture is very peculiar to me - they tend to run 'milky' (not smelling like dairy) with effervescent musks and sleek woods. Everything is clear and luminous, even materials like labdanum and patchouli doesn't smell heavy. Projection and sillage is quiet - fades too fast for my liking but latches to clothes well. Not my style but I wouldn't mind picking up 1-2 bottles for an easy reach.

I've worn them on skin a couple times. I'll write the rest of the lineup later:

Nar
Bonfire number. What you see is what you get. This genre tend to be brash, this one is almost too sober.
Opens with tangy-smoky (presumably birch) + burnt matches (presumably cade). Cedar-gaiac heart but the latter smells more prominent on my nose - meaty, dry, smoky, honeyed. It reminds me of (not similar) D.S. Durga's Coriander, Aesop's Hwyl, I.A.'s a City on Fire.

Fayoum
Most abstract and intriguing of the lineup.
Opens with a wet terracotta pot and violet leaf. The violet leaf settles from wet green to floral, mashing into the abstract fluffy floral accord - mostly mimosa (honeyed hay, not too powdery). The terracotta accord is top-down and becomes more dry, bitter and root-like later on (somewhat smells like fresh ream of printer paper too). Midway through there's is a sleek-plasticky woody scent that reminds me of (not similar) Hermes' Paprika Brasil or Cedre Sambac.

Neon Grafitti
Jazmin Sarai has a rather nice grapefruit accord that they also use in Led IV and How you Love . The sulphuric/pith facet is there, but has an effervescent sweetness that reminds me of navel oranges. Sometimes it reminds me of fizzy vit. c tablets but I like it.

Most prominent is grapefruit and cardamom (reminds me Cartier's Declaration for a split-second), followed with breathy jasmine and a subtle juicy mango flesh. There's a tinge of fresh green scent throughout. Drydown is nondescript dry woods and ambroxan - the latter is dosed appropriately and gives a nice wet sparkle. It's one those summer perfumes that emphasized on your sweatiness while being fresh at the same time.
 
D

Deleted member 26367777

Guest
Pretty poorly made overpriced fragrances using materials that shouldn’t be put into perfumes so haphazardly. I think this perfumer needs a few long years under their belt before they make anything close to the asking price. People are too afraid to speak honestly about some of these “indie” perfumers and in my opinion this brand is all hype, no skill, and overly expensive products.
Have you tried any of them yourself? I wasn't aware of any "hype" associated with this brand but then again I don't have any social media either.
 

Dava

Basenotes Member
Jun 28, 2015
I purchased Flore Botanical Alchemy a few months ago. This is a natural perfume house from Canada, their perfumes are unique, sophisticated and beautiful.
I bought Flores Island, Garden of Dendera, Moroccan Amber and the quality is satisfactory.

I also really like the aesthetic of Fum Fragrance
 

waldganger

Basenotes Member
Aug 19, 2020
MalloPerfumes just released 2 new bottles.

BD​

210,00 €
Warm, animalic. A reinterpretation of an old style floral fragrance. Liquidambar styraciflua, Assam oud, castoreum from Canada, Jasminum grandiflorum and Civettictis civetta from Ethiopia.
Only 100 bottles available with these limited raw materials -16 special bottles with and original illustration and signed-. 31% concentration perfume


You got to love jasmine for this one. The opening was VERY VERY strong and animalic. Civet, oud.. It softens and becomes much better after 10 minutes. But the initial blast is ... challenging.

WAM​

250,00 €
WAM is a very hard and smoky leather, with a large amount of Birch oil, Labdanum, Rose Otto, Tuberose, Castoreum and Vanilla. Concentration about 42%, Only 100 bottles.


This one is full russian leather. It is a smoke bomb but the smoke is beautiful - strong but not acrid like Hyde. The combination with the greasy castoreum, labdanum and the soft vanilla makes it almost perfect. Not smelling the rose/tuberose yet. I didnt like Areej's Cuir de Russie but this in my opinion is much better. Very masculine but nicely balanced with the sweetness.
 

lukebunny

Basenotes Member
Mar 22, 2020
I
MalloPerfumes just released 2 new bottles.

BD​

210,00 €
Warm, animalic. A reinterpretation of an old style floral fragrance. Liquidambar styraciflua, Assam oud, castoreum from Canada, Jasminum grandiflorum and Civettictis civetta from Ethiopia.
Only 100 bottles available with these limited raw materials -16 special bottles with and original illustration and signed-. 31% concentration perfume


You got to love jasmine for this one. The opening was VERY VERY strong and animalic. Civet, oud.. It softens and becomes much better after 10 minutes. But the initial blast is ... challenging.

WAM​

250,00 €
WAM is a very hard and smoky leather, with a large amount of Birch oil, Labdanum, Rose Otto, Tuberose, Castoreum and Vanilla. Concentration about 42%, Only 100 bottles.


This one is full russian leather. It is a smoke bomb but the smoke is beautiful - strong but not acrid like Hyde. The combination with the greasy castoreum, labdanum and the soft vanilla makes it almost perfect. Not smelling the rose/tuberose yet. I didnt like Areej's Cuir de Russie but this in my opinion is much better. Very masculine but nicely balanced with the sweetness.
I ordered both, can't wait for them to arrive this weekend
 
Aug 18, 2022
W
I've been smelling a bunch of Canadian indies:

Mixed media:
Jazmin Sarai - jazminsarai.com
Untamed - untamedperfumes.com
Libertine - Libertinefragrance.ca
Monsillage - monsillage.com
Meleg - melegperfumes.com
Zoologist - zoologistperfumes.com

All natural:
House of Forbidden Fruit - houseofforbiddenfruit.com
Wild Coast Perfumery - wildcoastperfumes.com
Lvnea - lvnea.com
I'm finishing on Jazmin Sarai, Untamed, and Libertine. Will update here once I've made up my m

What did you think of Untamed? Did you ever smell Salish Sea? Love to know your thoughts?
 

exquisitecrops

Basenotes Member
Sep 3, 2022
W


What did you think of Untamed? Did you ever smell Salish Sea? Love to know your thoughts?
I'm a fan now. I don't like everything they make, but Untamed has a strong art direction and their perfumes can keep up with the concept. Their stuff is a veering on too potent to me, but then again I don't usually wear extraits.

I own Salish Sea and Mevlana, I'm thinking of getting Shaped by the Wild. The cedar actually smells more like the cedar in Canada and not Texas Atlas cedar.

Salish Sea is very evocative of rocky, windy beaches of American Pacific North West - cloudy, cold, wet, salty . Very different from the bright, tropical beach perfumes. I smell all the listed notes. It's both niche-smelling and accessible to me. I can't find an equivalent to compare it, but I find slivers of Heeley's Sel Marin (sat accord) and TF's Oud Minerale (driftwood) there.
 

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