New release: Hermes Violette Volynka (Hermessence)

Larry Hoover

Basenotes Junkie
Jan 18, 2015
If posted already please delete.

The newest from the Hermessence line.

181204_img-1337-hermes-hermessence-violette-volynka_480.jpg


Fragrance Notes​

French violet
French violet
Russian leather
Russian leather

Haven't been impressed with Nagel so far, same for her other creations in the Hermessence line. But that could very well be my bias talking. Thoughts on this one?
 

Paddington

Marmalade Sandwich Eater
Basenotes Plus
Jun 17, 2021
If posted already please delete.

The newest from the Hermessence line.

181204_img-1337-hermes-hermessence-violette-volynka_480.jpg


Fragrance Notes​

French violet
French violet
Russian leather
Russian leather

Haven't been impressed with Nagel so far, same for her other creations in the Hermessence line. But that could very well be my bias talking. Thoughts on this one?
Better be worth ( I doubt)the mass dicontinues rumoured to be happening in the line
 

Clarissochka

Basenotes Junkie
Jul 1, 2015
If posted already please delete.

The newest from the Hermessence line.

181204_img-1337-hermes-hermessence-violette-volynka_480.jpg


Fragrance Notes​

French violet
French violet
Russian leather
Russian leather

Haven't been impressed with Nagel so far, same for her other creations in the Hermessence line. But that could very well be my bias talking. Thoughts on this one?
I have not been inmoressed with her work at all: either during her time at Jo Malone or Hermes.
 

GoldWineMemories

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 22, 2019
I have not been inmoressed with her work at all: either during her time at Jo Malone or Hermes.

I have to unfortunately agree with this. I'm always up for improvement, but I doubt this will be fantastic. Please make me eat my works Hermes. I don't think shes a bad perfumer either, but somewhere in the creation process there's decisions being made on the scents that aren't good. I wonder if someone has more say now than when Ellena was there.
 

cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
Which ones are rumoured to be discontinued?
Brin de Reglisse and Paprika Brasil are the two I've heard about. Unfortunately the rumors seem to be true, I checked around a few shops here in NYC and none have it in stock any more and I noticed them popping up on discounters. Previously I've never seen an Hermessence on a discount website so I imagine stores were allowed to unload these because they are discontinued.

I wonder if these had an issue with new regulations and just weren't worth reformulating because they don't sell well. I'm still on the fence about getting Brin de Reglisse before it's too late, it is certainly an interesting scent but I'm not sure I really like it (not a fan of black licorice).

Still, I'm excited for this release. Of course no one can replace Ellena but I think Nagel has done her best work for the brand in the Hermessence line. Cardamusc is gorgeous and I love Myrrhe Eglantine as well. I'm not a big violet fan but violet and leather sounds like it could be great!
 

pfranka

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2010
Violets and leather made me think of YSL's Parisienne (violets and vinyl). I have a bottle and a half that I haven't been able to part with. It just really smells great! I have yet to find anything from Hermessence that I liked that much, though I thought some were interesting, if thin in terms of composition. Still, I'd like to try this new one. Hope springs eternal and the presentation is nice. Thanks OP for posting!
 

cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
Heely's Cuir Pleine Fleur is another reference point that comes to mind. A really good one. High hopes for this one!

Edit: apparently discontinued...maybe this one can stand in.
I always have a pang of regret about this one. After it had been discontinued I found it discounted on a website form a cute little shop in upstate NYC, but I waited too long and it eventually sold. I had tried it once before when I was still a novice and didn't love it but I wonder if I would appreciate it now.
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
I wonder if these had an issue with new regulations and just weren't worth reformulating because they don't sell well. I'm still on the fence about getting Brin de Reglisse before it's too late, it is certainly an interesting scent but I'm not sure I really like it (not a fan of black licorice).
Since Hedi dabbles in lavender in Eau Noire and Rimbaud, I had to go check out Brin de Reglisse just to see what an other lavender is like in the landscape. The lavender in Brin de Reglisse is interesting and quite nice, and reminded me of facets of Eau Noire and Rimbaud. But overall, I prefer Eau Noire and Rimbaud over Brin de Reglisse.
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
As grayspoole, violet + leather made me think about Jolie Madame, frilly sweet violet over s&m leather. I am sure this will be different-but Nagel can be a bit mischievous when she is allowed to. I did enjoy some of her Hermes work, like Galop. A supersoft leather, but with a touch of her signature "rotten fruit" note that I find intriguing (Theorema, Maubussin, and especially Archives 69). I hope this one will not have le galop's suede, but a more substantial leather.

cacio
 

Cook.bot

Flâneuse
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
I hope this one will not have le galop's suede, but a more substantial leather.

I wouldn't mind at all if it turns out to be suede + violets, and is a kind of beefed-up version of the original Bottega Veneta EDP, which I adore.

(Although "beefed up" is probably not a condition we should expect from Nagel.)
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
A beefed up Bottega Veneta wouldn't be bad at all-and pehaps that's closer to what it will be.

The press blurbs talk about a strong leather, but of course that's just marketing. I also saw an older page that talks about Volynka leather itself. The Hermes blurb says it's a recreation of an old Russian leather recovered from a shipwreck of the late XVIII century. Whatever it means. I'm not very familiar with Hermes bags, but I had not heard about this type of leather before. Perhaps it's not very successful. Perhaps it's more expensive to produce than the more regular ones, so it has been shelved.

cacio
 

mr. reasonable

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 1, 2009
I love Violette Fumée (Mona di Orio) so very keen to try this when it comes! Vetiver Tonka & Osmanthe Yunnan still my faves from the line . . . Santal Massoia also good.
 

GoldWineMemories

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 22, 2019
Smelled this at a Hermes boutique today. It's not bad. I'd enjoy it if I smelled someone wearing it. It's just boring. The leather smells reminds me a already done leathers. Why release this when you have Cuir d'Ange in the line? That leather is so much better. It seems to me ridiculous to sit on this forum and critique an artist like Nagel, and nothing she's done for Hermes has been bad, but seriously, how long is Hermes going to release mediocre perfumes? Who is making the creative decisions at Hermes? Oh well, keep making BelAmi and I'm happy, but they need more vision.
 

mikeperez23

Be Here. Now.
Basenotes Plus
Dec 31, 2006
I was thinking, do we really NEED another Hermessence that smells like leather - so I am there with you GoldWineMemories, but I still want to smell this. I'm a sucker for a well done violet fragrance.

I did not hear about the rumors of those 2 Hermessence's being disco'd. I enjoy both.
 

cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
Smelled this at a Hermes boutique today. It's not bad. I'd enjoy it if I smelled someone wearing it. It's just boring. The leather smells reminds me a already done leathers. Why release this when you have Cuir d'Ange in the line? That leather is so much better. It seems to me ridiculous to sit on this forum and critique an artist like Nagel, and nothing she's done for Hermes has been bad, but seriously, how long is Hermes going to release mediocre perfumes? Who is making the creative decisions at Hermes? Oh well, keep making BelAmi and I'm happy, but they need more vision.
I tried it today and unfortunately I have to agree. It really is just what it says and nothing more: violet and leather. It has that powdery tart violet candy smell at the start with a smooth warm leather reminiscent of the one used in Galop. The tartness of the violet dries off pretty quickly and it becomes quite warm and cuddly, a texture I think Nagel excels at. It is very pleasant and I like how it wears, not too strong and not too light, very elegant as one expects from Hermessence. But I wish it did more, I find it lackluster compared to the rest of the line.
 

mr. reasonable

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 1, 2009
Hi again - bought a couple of the small bottles (and a couple of Santal Massoia) the other day.

The violet open is nice (but short-lived) and then it slips into a pretty nice mild leather . . . and that's about it, folks. Not unpleasant but hardly a contender for a new Hermessence to sit alongside some of the modern classics in the line.

It could have been amazing. If the violet and leather were allowed to blossom and sustain the fine, robust balance of the vetiver and tonka in VT then we would be talking! Or, perhaps the osmanthus and 'suede' duet in Lutens Daim Blond, then also good. Both these contrast a bright 'melody' with a deep, warm 'bass' beautifully.

The violet and leather here could easily have done the same dance but one minute there's a pleasant violet, and the next there's a friendly soft leather . . it just seems wan, almost timid. It made think of a ballsy lady I used to work for back in my early 20's in a leading music shop in NZ. We were in a bar celebrating and she ordered a scotch and soda and when it came she sipped it and said "There's nothing here . . . I think he just waved the bottle in the general direction of the damned glass!" Quite . . .

Oh, the disappointment :(
 
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