New Ormonde Jayne oakmoss scent -- "Evernia" ?

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
Ormonde seems to be bragging about the oakmoss in their new scent, Evernia. Apparently it's not available to us here in the colonies; if anyone in Blighty has given it a spin yet, I'd love to hear about it.

I searched and found one BN mention of it -- user "Tamasin" got a traveller last July, declared it a "Geza Shoen masterpiece" but said nothing further.

This is the email I got from Ormonde:

Evernia_OrmondJayne.jpg
 

Diamondflame

Frag Bomber 1st Squadron
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009
I have a travel size version of Evernia bought a few months ago when it was launched as part of a trio. Quite typical of Geza Schoen’s style, it’s a pared down /minimalist take on oakmoss. Wears like a chypre but lacking the depth and nuance of natural oakmoss.
 

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
I saw this one. They're ballsy for sure using that name I really do hope it lives up to the expectations.

Do you mean you saw it in a store, GoldWine?

Wears like a chypre but lacking the depth and nuance of natural oakmoss.

No surprise there, I suppose. I wonder if they're claiming it contains any natural evernia prunastri? If it's e. furfuracaea (or however you spell that stuff), it seems like it would be kind of deceptive to call it "oakmoss".
 

Marand75

Heaven's made of Oakmoss!
Basenotes Plus
Feb 9, 2018
I think there's a reason why they only call it "Evernia" (which roughly means Moss, not "oakmoss"). I bet it's a so called "take"/"version"/"inspired by oakmoss", a kinda deconstructed "oakmoss". Evernia without Prunastri, if you will. Although, I am aware that the scent of oakmoss can be somewhat recreated with a blend of specific earthy herbs, patch, ac's/fruity aldehydes, for a kind of 'full moss' experience. Which I dig.
I just don't have high hopes for this (oak)moss release, as I've been disappointed SO many times with this kind of "oakmoss theme/concept" thingies. However, I sincerely hope to be proved wrong and that this release is awesome and lives up to its description. I'm looking forward to nosing it sometime.
 

Jcelello

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 26, 2019
Sultan Pasha posted his review of this fragrance on his Instagram. He seems to like it quite a bit. Considering he is one of my favorite perfumers, I am very interested in sampling this one for that reason alone.
 

Proust_Madeleine

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2019
Sultan Pasha posted his review of this fragrance on his Instagram. He seems to like it quite a bit. Considering he is one of my favorite perfumers, I am very interested in sampling this one for that reason alone.

He’s a smart guy. He was the one that got me to try The Lover’s Tale by Francesca Bianchi and convinced me that if I love MeM it was worth it to track down a bottle of OOOH. The man loves perfume!
 

strifeknot

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 28, 2008
This is part of the OJ's Signature lineup, so I imagine it'll be more widely available. The UK has problems importing and exporting things lately due to brexit, but bottles should be coming our way.
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
Don't know why they wouldn't sell it to us, the FDA doesn't restrict oakmoss, only IFRA/ECC.

If anything it would be banned for sale in the EU, not here.

EU doesn't restrict oakmoss, only atranol rich oakmoss. (atranol is the main compounds that creates allergies).
Fact is that now they produce an atranol-light natural moss, that can be used without concerns, and with the same olfactive profile - what most of the perfumers use now. So EU shelves are full of perfumes with natural oakmoss in it.
 

Tamasin

Well-known member
May 14, 2006
OJ has confirmed Evernia will be sold on the US site soon.

You can usually get in delivered anywhere if you call their nice team at customer services or email. I got something delivered from the UK site last month to US. They send you a PayPal link and you ha e to pay extra for the postage as it is shipped from UK.
 

yellowtone

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Aug 27, 2016
I'm curious about this one. Not necessarily because I'm a big oak moss fan ,but because I want to see where the brand is going. Their last Route du Soie collection was a major disappointment and I hope this new scent will mark a return to the style of the older scents, because they are amazing.
 

Tamasin

Well-known member
May 14, 2006
Evernia is more like the old style Ormonde Jayne. I also couldn't get into La Route de Soie, but I think it's intended for a younger crowd into fruity notes. Evernia is sublime and more advanced.
 

Constantine

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 26, 2017
This is a pleasant green fragrance with a musculine edge although could be unisex. Good longevity average projection. For me there is much better out there for instance a bottle of Tom Daxton Iridium arrived as well today. Superb. A more wearable Frederick Malle French Lover and what Angelique's sous la plui should have been.
 

sables

Well-known member
Jun 3, 2005
For me, Evernia has strong similarities with Ormonde Man and Isfarkand. Those who expect a chypre will probably be disappointed, the typical bergamot-patchouli-labdanum-moss structure is missing. But Evernia is not a fougère either, because herbaceous lavender and powdery-nutty coumarin are also missing. It's more of an oakmoss soliflor in typical Geza Schön design: transparent, spicy (cardamom!) and airy (Iso-E-Super!). And in the middle of it all, a nice oakmoss note that I have no idea where it comes from, since no Evernia Prunastri or Evernia Furfuracea are mentioned on the allergen list.
Perhaps synthetic moss (evernyl?) or atranol/chloratranol-free moss. Who knows....
Anyway, for oak moss fans, a welcome discovery!
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
EU doesn't restrict oakmoss, only atranol rich oakmoss. (atranol is the main compounds that creates allergies).
Fact is that now they produce an atranol-light natural moss, that can be used without concerns, and with the same olfactive profile - what most of the perfumers use now. So EU shelves are full of perfumes with natural oakmoss in it.
That’s not accurate. The EU banned (not merely restricted) atranol and chloratranol in 2017 with sunset provisions that expired this year, and the severe restrictions on oakmoss prior to the atranol ban still apply to low-atranol oakmoss. (There’s no such thing as atranol-free oakmoss.) Basically, anything above an unavoidable trace amount of atranol is verboten, including the sale of any stock manufactured prior to the ban.

FYI, studies comparing unadulterated oakmoss to low-atranol oakmoss found the latter offered no significant reduction in allergic reactions, so you can safely expect a full oakmoss ban in the next round of EU regs.
 

Constantine

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 26, 2017
Evernia leans heavily towards an expensive room spray and Ormonde Man tones that down and adds pepper. Inoffensive and instantly forgettable.
 

Latest News

Top