NEW: Naomi Goodsir - Nuit de Bakélite For Women!

[hednic]

From NST:

Australian designer Naomi Goodsir has launched Nuit de Bakélite, a new green floral fragrance for women.

The interpretation of a nocturnal flower, the tuberose.
The beginnings of a "narcotic Lady" ... Green & obsessive.
A sleepless and white night and a green vesperal addiction.

​

Nuit de Bakélite was developed by perfumer Isabelle Doyen.

The notes feature angelica, violet leaf, galbanum, orris, karo karounde, tuberose, leather, davana, styrax, tobacco, labdanum and guaiac wood.


Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite is available at Nose in France, in 50 ml Eau de Parfum

 

[Oviatt]

Thanks, hednic--this has been a long time coming!

 

[CookBot]

Does anyone know what relation this scent has to Bakelite?

 

[cazaubon]

Finally! Eager to sniff. No idea how the name has anything to do with the scent however.

 

[jujy54]

Finally! Eager to sniff. No idea how the name has anything to do with the scent however.

Sounds intriguing and up my alley. As to the connection to scent, cazaubon and Cook.bot, Bakelite has a telltale smell when rubbed, rather like formaldehyde, and it was a popular material for making caps to bottles, including vintage perfume bottles. The name is what got me to this post.

 

[jujy54]

This vintage bottle of Myrurgia Maderas de Oriente locion has a Bakelite cap. I double checked this morning, rubbing it until it felt warm, and, yes, that resiny, slightly creepy formaldehyde smell is there. By the way, I finished the juice some time ago, and am hanging on to the bottle for that stylish Art Deco inspired cap. Bakelite is one of the earliest plastics; it's inventor was Leo Baekland. It was used for everything from electric insulators to telephones to jewelry. A cool collectible if you are into such things.

[note: I took a new photo—note empty bottle!—to give a better view of the cap, as it is stylish. hednic, forgive me if I am treading close to thread-jacking!]

 

[Redneck Perfumisto]

Bakelite having been a common surface for laboratory tables and benches back in the day, the idea of a "bakelite night" conjures up either (1) the reality of sleeping on any flat surface at 3AM with a pillow of lab manuals and parkas, or (2) the fantasy of two eye-contact-avoiding nerds suddenly throwing off their horn-rim and cat-eye glasses and having a bit of bench-clearing lab love.

Either way, I want a sniff of this one! :evil:

More seriously, the name is kinda brill, because it hints at "vintage modernity", which is perfect for this style of niche.

 

[CookBot]

Bakelite has a telltale smell when rubbed, rather like formaldehyde, and it was a popular material for making caps to bottles, including vintage perfume bottles.

Yes, I do know about that smell; I used to collect vintage costume jewelry, and you have to test a lot for Bakelite.

and, yes, that resiny, slightly creepy formaldehyde smell is there.

Which is why is seems like an unlikely perfume name, like calling your frag "Vinegar". That smell is really unpleasant.

Bakelite is one of the earliest plastics; it's inventor was Leo Baekland.

I saw the creepy movie about the family starring Eddie Redmayne.

More seriously, the name is kinda brill, because it hints at "vintage modernity", which is perfect for this style of niche.

Only, it seems to me, for people who've never smelled actual Bakelite.

 

[Redneck Perfumisto]

Yes, I do know about that smell; I used to collect vintage costume jewelry, and you have to test a lot for Bakelite.



Which is why is seems like an unlikely perfume name, like calling your frag "Vinegar". That smell is really unpleasant.




I saw the creepy movie about the family starring Eddie Redmayne.




Only, it seems to me, for people who've never smelled actual Bakelite.

Just to make sure I am remembering the smell correctly, I just scraped and sniffed some corroding bakelite keys on an old adding machine. It's the smell of old labs when people haven't worked in them for a while! Are you really sure you don't like it? :wink:

Vinegar's pretty good, too, but then, I think benzene and methylene chloride are almost perfumes in themselves.

All that said, I have no idea if that's what's going on here. The name could be entirely symbolic vs. the fragrance itself.

 

[CookBot]

I just scraped and sniffed some corroding bakelite keys on an old adding machine.

Redneck Perfumisto: Performing perfume archaeology since 2008 -- so you don't have to.

 

[Redneck Perfumisto]

They DID include a bakelite note! "Daring" is how it is described.

http://www.cafleurebon.com/esxence-...gna-nobile-1942-luca-maffei-cristiano-canali/

 

[Redneck Perfumisto]

Redneck Perfumisto: Performing perfume archaeology since 2008 -- so you don't have to.

LMAO :grin:

WILL WORK FOR TETRAHYDROFURAN

 

[jujy54]

I'm with Redneck Perfumisto Bakelite has a scary/alluring smell and, yes, the name is brill. I'm also a fan or ELdO Rien, which has a note that is all at once acrid, offputting, and irresistible.

 

[hedonist222]

This sounds great

Plus, Isabelle.... Annick Goutal & Les Nez

 

[Redneck Perfumisto]

I'm with Redneck Perfumisto Bakelite has a scary/alluring smell and, yes, the name is brill. I'm also a fan or ELdO Rien, which has a note that is all at once acrid, offputting, and irresistible.

This sounds great

Plus, Isabelle.... Annick Goutal & Les Nez

I will do my best to get a whiff in NYC and report back. I may have to get it. I was recently a visitor at one of the oldest surviving 19th century chemistry laboratories, including a steep wooden lecture hall like the ones you see in historical dramas. I am betting - hoping - this may have the same amazing odor.

 

[Oviatt]

Have you read Dinner at Antoine's? Maderas de Oriente plays a role in this novel, set in New Orleans.

This vintage bottle of Myrurgia Maderas de Oriente locion has a Bakelite cap. I double checked this morning, rubbing it until it felt warm, and, yes, that resiny, slightly creepy formaldehyde smell is there. By the way, I finished the juice some time ago, and am hanging on to the bottle for that stylish Art Deco inspired cap. Bakelite is one of the earliest plastics; it's inventor was Leo Baekland. It was used for everything from electric insulators to telephones to jewelry. A cool collectible if you are into such things.

[note: I took a new photo—note empty bottle!—to give a better view of the cap, as it is stylish. hednic, forgive me if I am treading close to thread-jacking!]

View attachment 68523

View attachment 68525

 

[Diamondflame]

This looks intriguing. Anyone had a sniff yet?

 

[pelle]

The most bakelite-y perfumes to my nose are Prada No9 Benjoin, and le labo Benjoin, but that could be just my mind/nose... Those are both rather cold/dry/screetchy. Some complementary flowers would be very interesting. To me it would be perfect if "Nuit de Bakélite" smelled like that

 

[StellaDiverFlynn]

I've only worn it a handful of times and am still trying to figure it out. Although I don't recall the smell of bakelite, so far I haven't detected any screechy plastic note.

I was expecting a tuberose soliflore, albeit a green one judging from the press release, which turned out, nope, not at all. Nothing buttery or camphorous like in most tuberose soliflore. Instead, it smells more like a green floral or floral leather chypre to me, and the tuberose here is in chameleon mode like how narcissus and jasmine blend in floral chypre.

It opens with bitter green galbanum, and when the floral heart soon joins in, it reminds me of the galbanum/green-naricussus pairing in Papillon Dryad and Masque Romanza. Later on, when the galbanum is more subdued, it dries down into a mossy floral chypre with a subtle leather and immortelle/tobacco undertone. The leather recalls the Bandit-style green type, but much much less butcher. The closest perfume to NdB's dry down that I can think of is Zoologist Civet, but Nuit de Bakélite exhibits more green nuances.

So far, I love it! I find it much richer in composition than the previous four Naomi Goodsir fragrances. Nuit de Bakélite feels vintage to me, while I would argue that the sleek aesthetics of the other four, lovely as they are, align better with that of modern niche. I think it's a very successful perfume to revamp the vintage green floral and chypre like Dryad does, well worths a try!

 

[FiveoaksBouquet]

I've only worn it a handful of times and am still trying to figure it out. Although I don't recall the smell of bakelite, so far I haven't detected any screechy plastic note.

I was expecting a tuberose soliflore, albeit a green one judging from the press release, which turned out, nope, not at all. Nothing buttery or camphorous like in most tuberose soliflore. Instead, it smells more like a green floral or floral leather chypre to me, and the tuberose here is in chameleon mode like how narcissus and jasmine blend in floral chypre.

It opens with bitter green galbanum, and when the floral heart soon joins in, it reminds me of the galbanum/green-naricussus pairing in Papillon Dryad and Masque Romanza. Later on, when the galbanum is more subdued, it dries down into a mossy floral chypre with a subtle leather and immortelle/tobacco undertone. The leather recalls the Bandit-style green type, but much much less butcher. The closest perfume to NdB's dry down that I can think of is Zoologist Civet, but Nuit de Bakélite exhibits more green nuances.

So far, I love it! I find it much richer in composition than the previous four Naomi Goodsir fragrances. Nuit de Bakélite feels vintage to me, while I would argue that the sleek aesthetics of the other four, lovely as they are, align better with that of modern niche. I think it's a very successful perfume to revamp the vintage green floral and chypre like Dryad does, well worths a try!

Very nice review. Thanks!

 

[Amelia Koenigsberg]

I've only worn it a handful of times and am still trying to figure it out. Although I don't recall the smell of bakelite, so far I haven't detected any screechy plastic note.

I was expecting a tuberose soliflore, albeit a green one judging from the press release, which turned out, nope, not at all. Nothing buttery or camphorous like in most tuberose soliflore. Instead, it smells more like a green floral or floral leather chypre to me, and the tuberose here is in chameleon mode like how narcissus and jasmine blend in floral chypre.

It opens with bitter green galbanum, and when the floral heart soon joins in, it reminds me of the galbanum/green-naricussus pairing in Papillon Dryad and Masque Romanza. Later on, when the galbanum is more subdued, it dries down into a mossy floral chypre with a subtle leather and immortelle/tobacco undertone. The leather recalls the Bandit-style green type, but much much less butcher. The closest perfume to NdB's dry down that I can think of is Zoologist Civet, but Nuit de Bakélite exhibits more green nuances.

So far, I love it! I find it much richer in composition than the previous four Naomi Goodsir fragrances. Nuit de Bakélite feels vintage to me, while I would argue that the sleek aesthetics of the other four, lovely as they are, align better with that of modern niche. I think it's a very successful perfume to revamp the vintage green floral and chypre like Dryad does, well worths a try!

Great review,thanks!You got me at subtle leather and immortelle/tobacco undertones, now I am desperate to test,plus I have so much respect for Isabelle Doyen!

 

[pelle]

So - I bought it a couple of days ago, and have worn it twice. I sprayed it on in the shop and was enough blown away by the first 15 minutes of this perfume to buy it.

I will not try to dissect it by notes but tell you what it reminds me of. Imagine:

55% Jolie Madame (Balmain)
25% Rubj (Viole de) extrait (Vero Profumo)
15% Opone (Diptyque)
5% Cuir de Russie (Chanel)
3% Iris Nazarena (Aedes de Venustas) or another green/dry/masculine iris.
2% Incense (Norma Kamali)

It is not just a mixture of the above fragrances, and different parts take place along the timeline. The perfume changes a lot, and I hope I´ll do it justice by this comparison to other (great) perfumes.

The Cuir de Russie part (aldehydes and smooth leather) is obvious in the beginning, together with a dry/slightly green iris a´la Iris Nazarena.

Soon a little Kamalish incense appear, and little wafts come and go through the whole life span, but maybe more at the end.

I think it is the incense that trigger the Jolie Madame part, and this part lasts from about 30 minutes in and several hours on. It is not as harsh as Jolie Madame, and it is softened/glamourized/tubereused by more than a hint by Rubj.

The dry down reminds me a lot of Opone, complete with a mineral like quality, and with dry incense added.

The perfume is pretty loud the first few hours, while the drydown sits closer to the skin - but the final stages is perceptible for at least 14 hours on me.

All in all I love this perfume!