New Maison Christian Dior Fragrance for 2022?

cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
I was in the checkout ready to get it but decided not to. I think I’ll just wait until September or October and hope someone starts selling decants. I’ll give them a sample and see if they’re any good. I’m mostly interested in the Bois d’Argent rework. Eau Noire sounds interesting too but also like something I would only need a 40ml of.
Yea, I'm tempted but it's just way too expensive for 3 small bottles. I've already got the original Eau Noire and an early Bois d'Argent so I really only want Cologne Blanche. I'm curious how the smell compares to my versions, but not $450 curious.

I really do hope they release these as standalone bottles, the language used on the website makes it sound like this is an extremely limited one time only kinda thing, but that's likely just to stoke FOMO.
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
The set of 3 in 40 mL is not bad if I want to experience and live with it before committing to the 250 mL size bottles. But if I'm going to get the large size bottle anyways, I would be saving money by opting out of the 40 mL size. I feel like the 40 mL size is good for all the people crying and whining for smaller sized bottles and how 100 mL is too much for them.
 
Oct 30, 2018
i just got in the three today..

bois d'argent smells very similar to me than other iterations. for what it's worth, i found the original, and the 2018 and later version to smell very similar. to me these three all smell the same, maybe the 2018+ version was a bit weak?

eau noire re-work smells much more lavendar heavy upfront -- there is also less spice, perhaps? it seems to be a bit less cumin heavy. some point in the heart/mid it almost gets that bubble-gum accord typical in masculine fragrances but it goes away. i actually quite like. it settles down very similar to the original i have. i think they did a great job with it.. if you like the spice and cumin of the original version i would try to find a bottle of that now!

haven't smelled cologne blanche yet and never smelled the original so can't comment too much. will write more later once i re-test these.

packaging is really nice as well :)
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
eau noire re-work smells much more lavendar heavy upfront -- there is also less spice, perhaps? it seems to be a bit less cumin heavy. some point in the heart/mid it almost gets that bubble-gum accord typical in masculine fragrances but it goes away. i actually quite like. it settles down very similar to the original i have. i think they did a great job with it.. if you like the spice and cumin of the original version i would try to find a bottle of that now!
This definitely makes sense. I think one of the most polarizing facets of Eau Noire was how people associated it with Indian spices. Toning that down makes a lot of commercial sense. I wonder if Francis smoothed out the harshness in Francois' formula.
 

GoldWineMemories

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 22, 2019
This definitely makes sense. I think one of the most polarizing facets of Eau Noire was how people associated it with Indian spices. Toning that down makes a lot of commercial sense. I wonder if Francis smoothed out the harshness in Francois' formula.
Was cumin ever an aspect of Eau Noire though? I've never heard anyone bring that up, only fenugreek & immortelle.
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
Was cumin ever an aspect of Eau Noire though? I've never heard anyone bring that up, only fenugreek & immortelle.

I really don't get the same experience this guy gets. He seems very adamant on there being curry spices in the mix.

I'm really curious if Francis will reformulate the Eau Noire and 30 Montaigne candle. I smelled the glass cloche in store and wasn't impressed. 30 Montaigne was repulsive to me on the spiciness. Eau Noire's candle felt flat when smelling from the glass cloche. Both are the first original candles released by Hedi for their exclusive line.
 

Nom de Guerre

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 2, 2020
HNn3XJd.jpg


5ml decants of the "new" trio landed on my lap today. I've only managed to put one on my skin so far – Ean Noire. The other two I have sprayed on the blotter. Here are my quick thoughts (sprayed 10 minutes ago), please take this rant with a grain of salt since I just arrived from a long trip and am quite exhausted.

Eau Noire – smells more like a flanker to my nose, it feels like it's lost quite a lot of weight and is quite airy without the syrupiness of the old ones. Very hay-like and, at one moment, I thought I smelled a drop of Cologne Blanche in this one. Weird, very weird. So far I prefer the murkiness of the Cologne and the EDP vs the airiness of the new one. It's still quite sweet but more like powdered sugar sweet, that airy and powdery sweetness that comes and goes (like in Cologne Blanche, ahem). My hunch is that there is some aromachemical hocus pocus going on and wearing this one outside in fresh air would give a better picture. I'm pretty sure FK is the perfumer behind Rimbaud by Celine since at some point this felt like Eau Noire EDP mixed with Rimbaud. Too early to say but the Cologne and the EDP are here to stay.
Cologne Blanche – it's been a while since I've put the Cologne on, the new one smells about the same as my bottle of the original release.
Bois d'Argent – I have the Demachy version that I'm in a love/hate relationship, some days all I smell is hamster cage shavings. The new one feels much more delicate and "feminine" which is a big plus to my nose. I wish I had the BdA Cologne to compare. I'm really liking this new one, the hamster shavings are there, but not in the foreground – it might be true that FK has brought this back to the Cologne formulation.

That's all from me now, I might add a couple of sentences after I've settled in and had some more wears.
 
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imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
5ml decants of the "new" trio landed on my lap today. I've only managed to put one on my skin so far – Ean Noire. The other two I have sprayed on the blotter. Here are my quick thoughts (sprayed 10 minutes ago), please take this rant with a grain of salt since I just arrived from a long trip and am quite exhausted.
Looking forward to more of your detailed reviews and comparisons!
 
Oct 17, 2020
Eau Noire and Cologne Blanche are available in the 125ml bottle size on the dior website now, I assume they are also selling the MFK version of BDA on there too and discontinued the demachy version. I'm tempted to spring for a full bottle of Eau Noire but I'm still mad at them for having the original trio release at $450 and paying that and then they reduced it to $375 right afterwards. 40ml should be enough for a good while.
 

Nom de Guerre

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 2, 2020
Eau Noire and Cologne Blanche are available in the 125ml bottle size on the dior website now, I assume they are also selling the MFK version of BDA on there too and discontinued the demachy version. I'm tempted to spring for a full bottle of Eau Noire but I'm still mad at them for having the original trio release at $450 and paying that and then they reduced it to $375 right afterwards. 40ml should be enough for a good while.

I still find the Demachy version supperior to the MFK offering. It’s lost most of it’s darkness and the new one is just OK, herbal and hay-like, most of it’s “brooding goopiness” is lost - I don’t get the same enjoyment from it as I do with the Demachy one and the Cologne. It’s definitely not bad but yeah…
 
Oct 17, 2020
I still find the Demachy version supperior to the MFK offering. It’s lost most of it’s darkness and the new one is just OK, herbal and hay-like, most of it’s “brooding goopiness” is lost - I don’t get the same enjoyment from it as I do with the Demachy one and the Cologne. It’s definitely not bad but yeah…
I've yet to try the other versions, would love to be able to test those or have an option to buy those but I found the new one enjoyable. So can't really miss what I never had, but it is a hesitation on going for a full bottle of the new stuff when I could fall in love with the older version.
 

Nom de Guerre

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 2, 2020
I've yet to try the other versions, would love to be able to test those or have an option to buy those but I found the new one enjoyable. So can't really miss what I never had, but it is a hesitation on going for a full bottle of the new stuff when I could fall in love with the older version.
Absolutely, don’t take my thoughts as a discouragement — it’s still a well made fragrance :)
 

cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
Anymore feedback on Cologne Blanche? I already have Eau Noire and Bois d'argent but I'm very interested in getting this one now that full bottles are available.
 

cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
This made me excited for Cologne Blanche. It is the one that got away for me, I used to try it at the Dior boutique but bought Eau Noire first and later Bois d'Argent and by the time I got around to wanting Cologne Blanche it was long gone.

Quite an underwhelming review for me personally, I wish Persolaise had done a side-by-side with the originals and Demachy reformulations (except for Cologne Blanche since this is his first sniff of it).
Maybe he will later, but I feel like in general Persolaise isn't big on engaging in reformulation debates and comparisons, which I kind of appreciate. I think Dacob will probably deliver for us on that. 😂
 

Nom de Guerre

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 2, 2020
This made me excited for Cologne Blanche. It is the one that got away for me, I used to try it at the Dior boutique but bought Eau Noire first and later Bois d'Argent and by the time I got around to wanting Cologne Blanche it was long gone.


Maybe he will later, but I feel like in general Persolaise isn't big on engaging in reformulation debates and comparisons, which I kind of appreciate. I think Dacob will probably deliver for us on that. 😂

Agree but still – I had to whine a bit since he didn't dig deep enough as he does in other reviews, just a quick glance "yeah, it is Eau Noire and that's all, folks" :)
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
I don't mind the video, since it was obvious that it was a first impressions kind of thing. I only worry that he wouldn't bother delving deeper, and rather move on to some other fragrance to review.

Here's the blotter update... - I confess, I've delayed this update, because at the moment, I'm not entirely sure what to say about these three. I feel I need to give them more time, and perhaps write about them at greater depth over on the blog. However, I will say that they do seem on the quiet side, which isn't necessarily a criticism. And I remain intrigued by Cologne Blanche: I've worn it nearly all day today, and have enjoyed the occasional whisper of soapy-powdery, nostalgic-romantic almond it has thrown my way. Bois D'Argent's drydown is a relatively subtle, woody-Ambroxan affair. And perhaps this Eau Noire really is less spicy, as some have suggested. I guess I might not be able to avoid a side-by-side comparison with my old bottle after all. More to come, I think... -- [Samples provided by the brand.]
Although Persolaise says that them being on the "quiet" side isn't a criticism, it is hard to not read between the lines that this is not the olfactory aesthetic that he is personally into. Knowing this, I'm even more excited about them. I'm confident in my own tastes, so I don't mind reading well thought out negative reviews, as it also helps me better understand why I love what I love.
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
Dacob has intel on which will be discontinued:

Cologne Royale,
Grand Bal,
Souffle de Soie,
Belle de Jour,
Diorissima,
Terra Bella,
Happy Hour,
Leather Oud,
Rose Gypsy,
Patchouli Impérial,
Thé Cachemire

Glad Francis has brought back Cologne Blanche to rightfully replace Cologne Royale. I look forward to smelling Francis' new creations.
 

RawM.I.A.

Wait, What's That Smell?!
Basenotes Plus
Jan 25, 2017
IH1VPwV.jpg


Stopped at the Dior section at Sak's & they had Eau Noire & Cologne Blanche.
My initial thoughts are:

Eau Noire-Francis's version is far superior to Francois's imho.
Smoother & more wearable, but not in a dumb down for the masses type of way, more of a better blended, I've finally perfected this type of way.
If that makes sense.

I had to fight off the sensation of purchasing instantly by telling myself I have to wait for the 250 ml, this is one of his best creations to date & I cannot wait to have this in my collection!

Cologne Blanche-I've waited years to smell this & I was a little let down, not cause it's not good, but it kept reminding me of something else.

It took me 20 mins or so, but then it hit me!
Cologne Blanche(at least this version) has the same DNA of most MFK freshies.
It smells similar to 754, 724, Cologne Pour le Matin, & Absolue Pour le Matin.
You can tell the same perfumer made them all using the same ingredients from the same supplier.

This smells more like a MFK release than a Privee release & I don't know how I feel about that.
It's going to be interesting to see if Dior Privee will become just an extension of his own brand or will he be able to separate the 2 brands in style.
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
Cologne Blanche-I've waited years to smell this & I was a little let down, not cause it's not good, but it kept reminding me of something else.

It took me 20 mins or so, but then it hit me!
Cologne Blanche(at least this version) has the same DNA of most MFK freshies.
It smells similar to 754, 724, Cologne Pour le Matin, & Absolue Pour le Matin.
You can tell the same perfumer made them all using the same ingredients from the same supplier.
It really seems like Francis might have tweaked Cologne Blanche, because the original smells nothing quite like anything in his own line. Dacob has also said it doesn't smell the same, and he's not a fan. I look forward to trying it one day so that I can see how I feel. I don't feel like I'm in any particular rush since I'm sitting on a lot of all 3, and they're all in their original formulations.
 

Nom de Guerre

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 2, 2020
IH1VPwV.jpg


Stopped at the Dior section at Sak's & they had Eau Noire & Cologne Blanche.
My initial thoughts are:

Eau Noire-Francis's version is far superior to Francois's imho.
Smoother & more wearable, but not in a dumb down for the masses type of way, more of a better blended, I've finally perfected this type of way.
If that makes sense.

I had to fight off the sensation of purchasing instantly by telling myself I have to wait for the 250 ml, this is one of his best creations to date & I cannot wait to have this in my collection!

Cologne Blanche-I've waited years to smell this & I was a little let down, not cause it's not good, but it kept reminding me of something else.

It took me 20 mins or so, but then it hit me!
Cologne Blanche(at least this version) has the same DNA of most MFK freshies.
It smells similar to 754, 724, Cologne Pour le Matin, & Absolue Pour le Matin.
You can tell the same perfumer made them all using the same ingredients from the same supplier.

This smells more like a MFK release than a Privee release & I don't know how I feel about that.
It's going to be interesting to see if Dior Privee will become just an extension of his own brand or will he be able to separate the 2 brands in style.

Interesting. I have the absolute opposite take on Eau Noire, this is my least favourite version – kind of like when Dior tried to make Fahrenheit not as gasoline forward by throwing a bag of vanilla in there. To me, it has lost most of its original misfit character by being "smoothed" out. I pick up the MFK DNA in this one as well. My preference is in chronological order, this being the one I'm least impressed by.
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
Interesting. I have the absolute opposite take on Eau Noire, this is my least favourite version – kind of like when Dior tried to make Fahrenheit not as gasoline forward by throwing a bag of vanilla in there. To me, it has lost most of its original misfit character by being "smoothed" out. I pick up the MFK DNA in this one as well. My preference is in chronological order, this being the one I'm least impressed by.
It is definitely easy for me to imagine that Francis wanted to make sure this new formulation of Eau Noire will be commercially viable. One thing I'm hoping is that it is an upgrade over Francois' version. The metallic shrill facet in Francois' version takes away from the elegance of the original. I am curious how Eau Noire would be re-interpreted in 2022. I'm open to looking at the "now", because I don't want to be one of those guys that will say "back in my day..." and be unable to adapt. Although the original Cologne Blanche is a 10/10 for me, I still want to extend this courtesy to the new formula.

I'm reading conflicting things about Bois d'Argent. Some people have said they're told it is the same formula, while others swear they smell a difference. The large bottle sizes of Bois d'Argent is still being sold in the "normal" sizes on the website, so I'm going to assume that's old stock. It would be a cop out if Francis didn't reformulate Bois d'Agent. I'm sure the sales of Francois' version is doing well, but I can't help but feel it wouldn't aesthetically align with Francis' new formulations of Eau Noire and Cologne Blanche.
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
I mean, like, yeah... and, no?
Always a great opportunity for me to pull out receipts, and help elucidate how perfumers think.

Persolaise: We haven’t actually talked about perfume yet. Which recent discontinuations have you been saddened by?

Francis: I’m sad about discontinuations because they mean I have failed. Eau Noirewas maybe too dramatic. I don’t even know why Dior removed Cologne Blanche. Maybe it was not saleable.
In Francis' perspective, discontinuations/lack of commercial viability = failure as a perfumer. So, it was, without a doubt, clear that Francis will be making sure that these re-releases would be built to be commercially viable. He has more interest in spreading his influence at a wide scale, than appeasing an extremely tiny niche audience. Hopefully this clarified it for you.
 

Nom de Guerre

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 2, 2020
Always a great opportunity for me to pull out receipts, and help elucidate how perfumers think.


In Francis' perspective, discontinuations/lack of commercial viability = failure as a perfumer. So, it was, without a doubt, clear that Francis will be making sure that these re-releases would be built to be commercially viable. He has more interest in spreading his influence at a wide scale, than appeasing an extremely tiny niche audience. Hopefully this clarified it for you.

Of course but why bother? Tinker as he may, Eau Noire will never be a commercial success, it will be just another dumbed down failure.
 

cheapimitation

Basenotes Dependent
May 15, 2015
I wonder if I'd prefer the updated Eau Noire. I've got a good amount of the original bottle left but I feel like wearing it maybe once a year. It goes too far into a curry/food smell for me that I don't enjoy. It also doesn't help that my best friend from back when it came out wore Eau Noire all the time and also cooked curry chicken in his house so curry food and this scent have been unfortunately forever linked in my brain. 😂

It's funny I was so excited about these re-releases at first, yet I haven't even bothered to go try them. I guess because I already have original Eau Noire and an early Bois d'Argent and the feedback on Cologne Blanche hasn't been stellar. The other reason is I haven't seen them at dept store counters and I just can't bring myself to go into a Dior boutique these days. I was such a fan of Hedi at Dior and now creative direction of the brand is just so depressingly mediocre. Stepping into the boutique is like seeing someone I used to date and realizing they got ugly and lead boring lives now.

I am still curious how the current Cologne Blanche will match my memory of it. It was never anything mind blowing but I remember it as a super elegant soft powdery almondy kind of thing. It is very Kurkdjian style from that time period so I can see it smelling like something from MFK, especially the early releases like Cologne Pour le Matin or APOM before he became obsessed with laundry musks.
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
I wonder if I'd prefer the updated Eau Noire. I've got a good amount of the original bottle left but I feel like wearing it maybe once a year. It goes too far into a curry/food smell for me that I don't enjoy. It also doesn't help that my best friend from back when it came out wore Eau Noire all the time and also cooked curry chicken in his house so curry food and this scent have been unfortunately forever linked in my brain. 😂
Although I luckily do not get the curry associations, I also find myself gravitating towards Eau Noire's spiritual successor, Black Tie, a lot more. It's younger sibling just has an ease to it that makes it a pleasure to wear.
 

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