New Maison Christian Dior Fragrance for 2022?

Mr Potato

Basenotes Member
Jun 8, 2018
Hey, :)

Have you heard of any new releases from Dior’s Maison line? As far as I know, they haven’t had any new releases yet this year (expect for the limited edition bottle designs for Ambre Nuit etc.).

Didn’t they release Eden Roc by this time last year? Seems like they’re rather quiet. Usually, you’d hear about their next release by now. Or is it perhaps me who’s missed something?
 
D

Deleted member 26357295

Guest
They now have a new perfumer at Maison Dior, Francis Kurkdjian. They have to wait a bit to launch his first perfume as a newcomer and main nose, otherwise people would think that they are capable of making complete fragrances in two three weeks :LOL:
 

RawM.I.A.

Wait, What's That Smell?!
Basenotes Plus
Jan 25, 2017
There were at least 2 more releases by Demachy that were supposed to come out last year, but for some reason did not.

I wonder will they ever see the light of day now that he is gone.

I remember people saying why is Dior releasing so many Privee's last year, now we know it was because he was preparing his exit.
 

Larry Hoover

Basenotes Junkie
Jan 18, 2015
Where was that? Only would be worthwhile if they reverse Demarchy's fiddling about with Eau Noire.
Someone on Fragrantica mentioned: ''I was told yesterday by staff at the Dior counter that this (plus, Cologne Blanche) is being officially re-released in September, as part of the Kurkdjian inauguration.''

Sure, this could be bogus for all we know, but it wouldn't surprise me if it's legit.
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
Where was that? Only would be worthwhile if they reverse Demarchy's fiddling about with Eau Noire.
I haven't done a side-by-side comparison between Francis' formula and Francois' formula. What differences do you detect?

Someone on Fragrantica mentioned: ''I was told yesterday by staff at the Dior counter that this (plus, Cologne Blanche) is being officially re-released in September, as part of the Kurkdjian inauguration.''

Sure, this could be bogus for all we know, but it wouldn't surprise me if it's legit.
There's also someone on Parfumo who said the same thing, so it may be true.
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I'm so hyped to be able to get more Cologne Blanche. It is the only fragrance I've smelled that I have given a solid 10/10.

Here are Francis' thoughts on Eau Noire and Cologne Blanche's fate since Hedi Slimane left the brand:
We haven’t actually talked about perfume yet. Which recent discontinuations have you been saddened by?

Francis Kurkdjian: I’m sad about discontinuations because they mean I have failed. Eau Noire was maybe too dramatic. I don’t even know why Dior removed Cologne Blanche. Maybe it was not saleable. Fragile was maybe a bit too dramatic as well. They’re gone… and I’m sad. I’m sad for the consumer. I’m sad about Eau Noire because, to me, it’s one of the great scents.
I have to agree with Francis that Eau Noire is very dramatic, so much so that I don't find myself wearing it often. But, I still love having it in my wardrobe. I'm also confused why Dior would discontinue Cologne Blanche and replace it with Cologne Royale. I feel like the only reasonable conclusion for a profit-driven machine like Dior to discontinue Cologne Blanche is due to poor sales. I wonder if this, and the fact that there has been many new regulations put out since 2004, means Cologne Blanche will be tweaked. I could imagine a reality where some of the freshness will be toned down, so it leans more feminine than before. Perhaps Hedi was too ahead of his time with the launching of Cologne Blanche in 2004, and the market just wasn't ready for his olfactory aesthetic back then. His androgynous aesthetic will probably be more palatable for the modern luxury fragrance consumer in the 2020s.

I also think it is just proper for Eau Noire, Cologne Blanche, and Bois d'Argent to be in the line. They're the ones that started this whole exclusive line after all. Francis is, figuratively, putting the church back at the centre of the village, and honouring both his and Hedi's legacy at Dior.
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Larry Hoover

Basenotes Junkie
Jan 18, 2015
I haven't done a side-by-side comparison between Francis' formula and Francois' formula. What differences do you detect?


There's also someone on Parfumo who said the same thing, so it may be true.
View attachment 203669

I'm so hyped to be able to get more Cologne Blanche. It is the only fragrance I've smelled that I have given a solid 10/10.

Here are Francis' thoughts on Eau Noire and Cologne Blanche's fate since Hedi Slimane left the brand:

I have to agree with Francis that Eau Noire is very dramatic, so much so that I don't find myself wearing it often. But, I still love having it in my wardrobe. I'm also confused why Dior would discontinue Cologne Blanche and replace it with Cologne Royale. I feel like the only reasonable conclusion for a profit-driven machine like Dior to discontinue Cologne Blanche is due to poor sales. I wonder if this, and the fact that there has been many new regulations put out since 2004, means Cologne Blanche will be tweaked. I could imagine a reality where some of the freshness will be toned down, so it leans more feminine than before. Perhaps Hedi was too ahead of his time with the launching of Cologne Blanche in 2004, and the market just wasn't ready for his olfactory aesthetic back then. His androgynous aesthetic will probably be more palatable for the modern luxury fragrance consumer in the 2020s.

I also think it is just proper for Eau Noire, Cologne Blanche, and Bois d'Argent to be in the line. They're the ones that started this whole exclusive line after all. Francis is, figuratively, putting the church back at the centre of the village, and honouring both his and Hedi's legacy at Dior.
View attachment 203670

View attachment 203671
Not sure why Dior discontinued Cologne Blanche (I've never tried it unfortunately) but Eau Noire, though it was some die hard fans, is not an easy scent to wear if you ask me. It's very much an acquired taste I'd say. The immortelle combined with some of the spices unfortunately made it smell like spiced curry to me. It's definitely an artistic scent but I wouldn't even be able to finish the big 250ml bottle if you paid me for it.
 

Nom de Guerre

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 2, 2020
I wouldn’t put my money on these rumors. Eau Noire is still available at dior.com in Europe and I don’t think it would make a good business decision since they wouldn’t make ground-breaking sales. Unless it was a pre-requisite by FK to stroke his ego by bringing them back in the line.
 

ultravisitor

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 4, 2014
Someone on Fragrantica mentioned: ''I was told yesterday by staff at the Dior counter that this (plus, Cologne Blanche) is being officially re-released in September, as part of the Kurkdjian inauguration.''

Sure, this could be bogus for all we know, but it wouldn't surprise me if it's legit.
I mean, if it comes from Fragrantica...

A lot of BS gets passed around there. Like, a lot.

Not sure why Dior discontinued Cologne Blanche (I've never tried it unfortunately) but Eau Noire, though it was some die hard fans, is not an easy scent to wear if you ask me. It's very much an acquired taste I'd say. The immortelle combined with some of the spices unfortunately made it smell like spiced curry to me. It's definitely an artistic scent but I wouldn't even be able to finish the big 250ml bottle if you paid me for it.
I don't disagree. I do love Eau Noire, but it's not at all an easy wear. I'm going to Paris this summer, so I'll be able to buy it, but I'm not sure I should because I'll barely get through any of the bottle since it's 250ml. I'd just be buying it to have it, which isn't exactly a good reason for me to be buying full bottles of perfume.

eau noire and i believe cologne blanche where available buy at harrods but on request

I'm pretty sure Cologne Blanche has actually been discontinued while Eau Noire has simply had its distribution highly restricted (like Mitzah and Vetiver).
 

Paddington

Marmalade Sandwich Eater
Basenotes Plus
Jun 17, 2021
Eau Noire is still available at dior.com in Europe. I don’t think it would make a good business decision since they wouldn’t make ground-breaking sales. I wouldn’t put my money on these rumors. Unless it was a pre-requisite by FK to stroke his ego.
eau noire is one of those scents that are appreciated by enthusiast but would be a commercial failure amongst the masses
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
Not sure why Dior discontinued Cologne Blanche (I've never tried it unfortunately) but Eau Noire, though it was some die hard fans, is not an easy scent to wear if you ask me. It's very much an acquired taste I'd say. The immortelle combined with some of the spices unfortunately made it smell like spiced curry to me. It's definitely an artistic scent but I wouldn't even be able to finish the big 250ml bottle if you paid me for it.
I was reading old blogs and comments when trying to research Hedi's fragrances, and some of the narratives I gathered was that Cologne Blanche didn't stand out, compared to Eau Noire and Bois d'Argent, and that it leaned too feminine for men, and women weren't really looking to buy a cologne for themselves. It was just too androgynous for the luxury niche fragrance consumer in 2004, and they didn't understand its beauty.

I'm so thankful that I never got the curry associations with the immortelle in Eau Noire. I'm one of the lucky ones that smell maple syrup instead. Hedi definitely learned from his mistakes with his new Celine fragrances. They're all much more palatable to the average luxury fragrance consumer while still carrying the same spirit from his Dior fragrances. I see glimpses of Eau Noire's lavender in Rimbaud. I see glimpses of Eau Noire's spices, syrupy vanilla, and woods in Black Tie. I see glimpses of Cologne Blanche in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Although I love the way Hedi's Dior fragrances smell, I see myself gravitating towards wearing his Celine fragrances much more often.

I wouldn’t put my money on these rumors. Eau Noire is still available at dior.com in Europe and I don’t think it would make a good business decision since they wouldn’t make ground-breaking sales. Unless it was a pre-requisite by FK to stroke his ego by bringing them back in the line.
I do wonder why they don't bother offering Eau Noire outside of Europe when they offer the Eau Noire candle outside of Europe. If the Eau Noire candle can be offered outside of Europe, I feel like it wouldn't be too out of reach for Eau Noire to be more widely available too. From a narrative perspective, it makes a better story for the original fragrances that started Dior's exclusive line to still be in production today. Makes the line seem less soulless, which is one reason why I've ignored the line so far.
 

Nom de Guerre

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 2, 2020
I was reading old blogs and comments when trying to research Hedi's fragrances, and some of the narratives I gathered was that Cologne Blanche didn't stand out, compared to Eau Noire and Bois d'Argent, and that it leaned too feminine for men, and women weren't really looking to buy a cologne for themselves. It was just too androgynous for the luxury niche fragrance consumer in 2004, and they didn't understand its beauty.

I'm so thankful that I never got the curry associations with the immortelle in Eau Noire. I'm one of the lucky ones that smell maple syrup instead. Hedi definitely learned from his mistakes with his new Celine fragrances. They're all much more palatable to the average luxury fragrance consumer while still carrying the same spirit from his Dior fragrances. I see glimpses of Eau Noire's lavender in Rimbaud. I see glimpses of Eau Noire's spices, syrupy vanilla, and woods in Black Tie. I see glimpses of Cologne Blanche in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Although I love the way Hedi's Dior fragrances smell, I see myself gravitating towards wearing his Celine fragrances much more often.


I do wonder why they don't bother offering Eau Noire outside of Europe when they offer the Eau Noire candle outside of Europe. If the Eau Noire candle can be offered outside of Europe, I feel like it wouldn't be too out of reach for Eau Noire to be more widely available too. From a narrative perspective, it makes a better story for the original fragrances that started Dior's exclusive line to still be in production today. Makes the line seem less soulless, which is one reason why I've ignored the line so far.

The funny thing is that the candle is canned in Europe — one must be a globe-trotter to own both :) I aggree that it would be nice to see the original trio back together, preferrably in the original form.
 

Tristan45

Super Member
Jun 30, 2017
I haven't done a side-by-side comparison between Francis' formula and Francois' formula. What differences do you detect?
I used to try the original Eau Noire cologne many times in Harvey Nichols, was always intrigued by it and loved its boldness and downright oddness, but I was heavily in a Creed Bois du Portugal phase, and always put off buying it to another day, not even thinking it would get changed. By the time I bought a bottle a few years after that it was in its revised version in the privee line (or whatever it was called then). Somehow a little of the original mystery, or weirdness of the original has been removed, and I've never quite taken to wearing this version very much as it never quite lives up to my memories of the original. I kick myself about that. I've got a healthy amount of my bottle left - it's getting on a bit now, but I actually sold a more recent back up bottle as I felt it wasn't really getting the wear. I'd be very interested in the original version, but not in a rehash of the Demarchy version.
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
Somehow a little of the original mystery, or weirdness of the original has been removed, and I've never quite taken to wearing this version very much as it never quite lives up to my memories of the original.
My only experience with Eau Noire is with Francois' formulation, and I have enjoyed it. I have a 250 mL bottle of Francis' formulation that I haven't tried testing yet, and I think a part of me is apprehensive of experiencing what you have experienced.
 

hednic

Basenotes Institution
Oct 25, 2007
My only regret when I bought the 125ml of Cologne Blanche and the others that were initially released with it upon their launch at the Dior boutique, is that they weren't sold with fixed atomizers. They came with screw-on black plastic atomizers and when the screw-on atomizers were affixed, you couldn't put the cap on which was frustrating. So, I will be looking to replace said bottles with the new ones, once they appear.
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
My only regret when I bought the 125ml of Cologne Blanche and the others that were initially released with it upon their launch at the Dior boutique, is that they weren't sold with fixed atomizers. They came with screw-on black plastic atomizers and when the screw-on atomizers were affixed, you couldn't put the cap on which was frustrating. So, I will be looking to replace said bottles with the new ones, once they appear.
It was an interesting play on how Hedi was re-imagining what modern colognes could be, so having them in those traditional cologne splash bottles was quite fitting. I can't help but feel like Hedi was inspired by Serge Lutens in the screw-on atomizers. The spiciness of Eau Noire and the 30 Montaigne candle is also something I can imagine being something that borrows from Serge's aesthetic.
 

Larry Hoover

Basenotes Junkie
Jan 18, 2015
I don't disagree. I do love Eau Noire, but it's not at all an easy wear. I'm going to Paris this summer, so I'll be able to buy it, but I'm not sure I should because I'll barely get through any of the bottle since it's 250ml. I'd just be buying it to have it, which isn't exactly a good reason for me to be buying full bottles of perfume.
No that's true. I don't really understand why they don't offer a 40ml bottle of Eau Noire as well. Would be the perfect size for some people who still enjoy the scent very much but don't need to have so much of it that they can never finish it.

I was reading old blogs and comments when trying to research Hedi's fragrances, and some of the narratives I gathered was that Cologne Blanche didn't stand out, compared to Eau Noire and Bois d'Argent, and that it leaned too feminine for men, and women weren't really looking to buy a cologne for themselves. It was just too androgynous for the luxury niche fragrance consumer in 2004, and they didn't understand its beauty.

I'm so thankful that I never got the curry associations with the immortelle in Eau Noire. I'm one of the lucky ones that smell maple syrup instead. Hedi definitely learned from his mistakes with his new Celine fragrances. They're all much more palatable to the average luxury fragrance consumer while still carrying the same spirit from his Dior fragrances. I see glimpses of Eau Noire's lavender in Rimbaud. I see glimpses of Eau Noire's spices, syrupy vanilla, and woods in Black Tie. I see glimpses of Cologne Blanche in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Although I love the way Hedi's Dior fragrances smell, I see myself gravitating towards wearing his Celine fragrances much more often.
I can see why Cologne Blanche was lost in the shuffle based on your point above. Times were surely different back in 2004. I never got the chance to try something from the new Celine line and it seems even samples are pretty difficult to obtain. Do you know where one could get ahold of some samples in Europe? There's I believe a miniature coffret containing all fragrances in 10ml, but I remember the price was quite steep (it appears they removed pricing from the website).
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
Do you know where one could get ahold of some samples in Europe? There's I believe a miniature coffret containing all fragrances in 10ml, but I remember the price was quite steep (it appears they removed pricing from the website).
You might want to double check that you're not on the international website at Celine. On desktop, you will have to scroll to the bottom of the website to change your region.
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The coffret set seems to be 290 euro, but it is missing Rimbaud. Depending on where you live, the best bet might be going into Celine boutiques that carry the fragrance line. Vinted might be an option to buy some samples secondhand since you're in Europe. Mercari is another option for buying some samples secondhand.

This website seems to sell decants of the Celine fragrances: https://www.perfumesamplesanddecants.com/collections/celine
But I've never tried buying from them before.
 

Nom de Guerre

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 2, 2020

Why is Eau Noire yellow? 🧐

EDIT:
Looks like it's actually happening:

6fpIfwS.png
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
Okay, the 40 ml set is limited edition, but it looks like they will come in full sizes. I don't really mind what colour they are since I knew they are coloured with colourants anyways.
 

imm0rtelle

Basenotes Junkie
Apr 2, 2021
Wait, they re-edited Bois d'Argent? It was perfect as it was, wasn't it?
Personally, it became more bland and more sweet than Annick's original formulation for Hedi Slimane. I'm definitely curious to sniff Francis' version, but I already have enough of Annick's version for last my lifetime.
 

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