NEW: La Collection Celine Haute Parfumerie

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
I did some research, and turns out Hedi released 30 Montaigne, Bois d'Argent, and Eau Noire candles back when he was at Dior Homme.

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He's always been into using black glass for his candles. This time, he's also making the wax black.

30 Montaigne was designed for the original couture house of the Christian Dior at 30 rue Montaigne.

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I dropped by the Dior store, to see how the modern version of Hedi's candles smell like. I smelled the air in the glass cloche of each candle and I recoiled in disgust. The smell trapped in the glass cloche should be a good approximation to the smell of the candle, but it just smelled gross and very unappealing to me.

30 Montaigne was spicy, which makes sense, but it doesn't seem like something I would want to scent my home with. Eau Noire was mostly just the top notes and felt quite sharp and herbaceous. I couldn't smell any of the syrupy sweetness or woods. I was looking forward to Bois d'Argent the most. I smelled the air in the glass cloche and it smelled like piss.

I had to spray the perfume version of Bois d'Argent on my skin just to see how badly they reformulated Hedi's original version. I did get a hint of the animalic piss quality on skin, but it wasn't entirely off-putting. The overall vibe of the reformulated Bois d'Argent remains similar and it smells like a good dupe. The current version smells denser and less androgynous. It leans a bit more masculine than the original, which is in line with how Francois Demachy also reformulated Dior Homme. It smells like an edgier version of the one composed by Annick Menardo. Hedi's Bois d'Argent is sometimes too beautiful for me to wear when I'm dressed casually. I can see Francois Demachy's edgier Bois d'Argent to be more versatile for me. The current version isn't bad, so I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it. Most people probably wouldn't notice the differences, but I'm just very sensitive to subtle nuances.

Although the smell of Dior candles in their glass cloche didn't appeal to me, I am still being optimistic with Hedi's Celine candles. Their descriptions are really selling me on them already.

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L'Inventaire, Papiers Froissés, Tambour Noir, and Grands Lys stand out to me as scents I would enjoy to smell at home, based on their descriptions. Grands Lys, being the smell to match Hedi's atelier, is something that intrigues me. The giant white walls. The vanilla and heliotrope might be a callback to Cologne Blanche.
Although Dior only expanded Slimane’s responsibilities to fragrance and beauty products a year ago, the designer began concocting a scent immediately. Indeed, when he opened his minimalist atelier at 40 Rue Francois Premier in 2001, “I wanted to have an odor that would feel and smell like Dior Homme,” said Slimane, who worked with Quest International and Firmenich on developing the formulas. The result was Cologne Blanche, which Slimane only now will commercialize. Cologne Blanche is a sweet scent intended for day wear, infused with rosemary from Provence, sweet orange from Portugal, Calabrian bergamot, orange blossom from Tunisia and vanilla pods from the Bourbon Islands. It corresponds to the architectural concept that inspired the atelier: accord built on the alternating balance of resonant notes.
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This is the Celine Maison de Couture at the Hôtel Colbert de Torcy.
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imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
There used to only be 5 (Parade, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Eau de Californie, Black Tie, and Nightclubbing). Now 2 more are joining the list (Cologne Française and La Peau Nue). They're still missing Dans Paris and Reptile. Fakes still are 100 mL bottles.
Dans Paris is now also added on the list of fakes on the market now.
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Updates:
- still a bit sloppy with the glass work on the surface that interfaces with the juice
- logo is getting more crisp and less of a bleeding effecting from the earlier batches of the fakes
- the grain de poudre embossing looks a bit off on the label
- the plastic tubing is looking more transparent
- they've caught on that people have identified that the first batch of fakes had the 0Y01 batch code, so they have now updated it to 1D01 for this bottle. I wonder if there will be moving to 1D01 for future bottles.
 

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
Reptile fake spotted. Now it is pretty much confirmed the entire line can be faked, but they're still just in the 100 mL bottles. I don't think they will bother faking the 200 mL size.
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After getting exposed that their first batch of fakes all used the 0Y01 batch code, I do think they have switched to 1D01.
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I think every current acting listing on eBay for Celine fragrances right now are fakes, and people have been buying them.
 

Minotauro

Well-known member
Jul 12, 2021
Thank you imm0rtelle for the above information.
It is clear that fakes in Asia are becoming more and more sophisticated.
I believe that if I saw a fake one in person, I would not know how to distinguish it, if I did not have an original bottle in front of me ... and surely with great doubts!

On the other hand, have you tried those fakes? I mean, how do they smell? I am not an expert in fakes, I do not know if the fakers are dedicated to copy the box and bottle to attract online sellers and then the fragrance is pretty awful or if they also "work" on the issue of fragrance.
I have bought a Muscs Koublai Khan tester in China and if it is a fake I would have to congratulate the one who did it!
 

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
My biggest issue with fake cosmetics is that you end up applying potentially toxic chemicals on your skin, so I haven't bothered checking the fake Celine fragrances out. In theory, they would GC-MS the Celine fragrances, then brute force and create something that smells similar enough to how online reviews describe the fragrance. I doubt many who want to buy the fake ones have smelled the real ones in the first place.

I checked in with an SA today and it seems like one new fragrance will be released November/end of November and it will be either Rimbaud or Bois Dormant. Then the other will be released in 2022. Hedi still has intentions to keep to 11 fragrances as he originally stated. I would have thought he would release more fragrances to make more money, but I guess that 11 is really what Hedi believes in. There is no reason that Bois Dormant and Rimbaud couldn't be released together. They're being released as "drops" which is something that he has said he wanted to do.
 

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
After smelling Baccarat Rouge 540 more seriously, I think I understand the people who feel that Francis Kurkdjian could be behind Parade as well. I notice a similar "humid" feeling in the base of Baccarat Rouge 540 and Parade.

I layered Parade on at night, after wearing Black Tie during the day, and in next the morning I noticed the "Play-Doh" facet of Dans Paris on my skin. I wonder if Parade contains this already, or if it is the combination of Black Tie and Parade that created this facet.
 

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
I wore Parade again on clean skin this time, and I do not get the "Play-Doh" facet anymore. It doesn't impress me that much on test strip, but on skin it just shines and is quite beautiful.

Seems like Rimbaud is chosen to be released this year:
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I'm guessing that book is Rimbaud's Les Illuminations. I'm more excited for Rimbaud than Bois Dormant.

CB: You said Rimbaud took the longest of the 11 to finish and was “the most difficult because it was the simplest.” And that this scent captures the poet’s youth, correct? Why did you find it the most difficult to create?

HS: I discovered Rimbaud at age 14. I remember reciting “Le Dormeur du Val” with my friends. We were lying down in the grass during the Parisian summer. His poetry was always around me. I had the desire to approach the romantic myth of eternal youth in an olfactory way. How to express the idea of being 17 years old, the realm of possibilities, teenage subtle fragility but also the spleen? Working on this perfume, I had to recognize the emotions I felt growing up to adulthood. We did countless versions, and one day we found it.

What are your most important olfactory memories? Those of childhood? Those of adolescence? Were you a young "Rimbaud"?
HS: Aromatic notes, without a doubt. Mediterranean gardens from childhood. You talk about Rimbaud. I discovered the poetry of Arthur Rimbaud at 13-14 years old. A large number of teenagers, of which I was a part, identified with the young poet. I was obsessed with his melancholic portraits of youth. Rimbaud is a fragrance that will be released by Celine in 2020. It is naturally a perfume on eternal youth. It was a question of evoking the vital impetus, the fragility, but also the spleen of adolescence.

Hedi's homage to Le Dormeur du Val back in the early Dior Homme days:
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It’s a green hollow, where a river is singing
Crazily hanging on the grasses rags
Of silver; where the sun, from the proud mountain,
Is shinning: it’s a little valley bubbling with sunlight.

A young soldier, his mouth open, his head bare,
And the nape of his neck bathing in cool blue watercress,
Is sleeping; he is stretched out on the grass, under the skies,
Pale in his green bed where the light falls like rain.

Feet in the gladiolas, he is sleeping.Smiling like
A sick child would smile, he takes a nap:
Nature, rock him warmly: he is cold.

Fragrances do not make his nostrils quiver;
He sleeps in the sun, hand on the breast,
Peacefully. He has two red holes in his right side.

21st century fashion’s preeminent enfant terrible, Hedi Slimane, referenced Rimbaud in one of his first ever collections. The designer’s Dior Homme Spring 2002 collection was titled “Boys Don’t Cry,” and in the program notes, Slimane included the final stanza of the Rimbaud poem “Le Dormeur du Val.” The poem is about a beautiful young soldier lying in the grass, a pure vision of peace. In that final Slimane-selected stanza, Rimbaud reveals the soldier actually has two red holes in his side—that despite having a childlike smile on his face, and sun all over his skin, he’s already been killed.

The poem works perfectly for Slimane’s collection, which is full of teen spirit, shirtless models, and varying motifs of violence. Most memorably, there were gunshot wounds embroidered over the heart of several dress shirts, dripping in red sequins—love wounds on these boys who don’t cry. This bloody, violent heartache seeps through Slimane’s work. It’s that visualization of not knowing how to articulate young heartbreak because it’s so overwhelming, so apocalyptic. As Rimbaud wrote, when still a teenager, “Idle youth, enslaved to everything; by being too sensitive I have wasted my life.”
 
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imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
Somebody who went to the Ginza Celine store reopening that had Rimbaud to sample:
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I finally got the information!

RIMBAUD, the new work of the Celine Haute Parfumerie Collection, will be released in early 2022.

Travel spray will also be available in gold and silver! You can easily carry your favorite scent with the 15ml refill exchange type 🤤

Eight types of candles will be released.
Good news for the holiday season!
So it seems like Rimbaud was pushed back and won't be released in 2021. I wonder if Rimbaud was pushed back to justify another round of price increases. I wonder if the 6 candles were also pushed back from the November launch, so they will launch all 8 together in 2022.
 
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hednic

Well-known member
Oct 25, 2007
I will buy a large bottle as soon as it becomes available in a boutique by me to complement all the other releases in my collection and keep it complete.
 

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
Fragrance notes via Parfumo

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I'm a bit surprised by the notes but my interest is piqued, I'm on a lavender binge as of lately.
The notes make it seem very cuddly, not sure I would associate that with Rimbaud and his biography.
If this is correct, then this might be Hedi's version of Caron's Pour un Homme, which is a fragrance he's been wearing since 11.
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imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
More information dropped: https://www.tag-walk.com/en/news/celine-haute-parfumerie-rimbaud

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CREATED BY HEDI SLIMANE, RIMBAUD IS ENRICHING THE CELINE PERFUME COLLECTION. THIS NEW OPUS COMPLEMENTS THE NINE PERFUMES
ALREADY LAUNCHED IN 2019, COMPRISING:
PARADE
SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS
DANS PARIS
COLOGNE FRANÇAISE
LA PEAU NUE
EAU DE CALIFORNIE
BLACK TIE
REPTILE
NIGHTCLUBBING
LIKE THE OTHER CREATIONS IN THE COLLECTION, RIMBAUD REVIVES THE TRADITIONAL SAVOIR-FAIRE OF FRENCH HAUTE PARFUMERIE.
IT COMES TO JOIN THE DAY COLLECTION IN THE FRAGRANCE RANGE: PARADE, SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS, COLOGNE FRANÇAISE, DANS PARIS, LA PEAU NUE AND EAU DE CALIFORNIE

THE ESSENCE OF YOUTH AND ITS POETIC GRACE
FOR THIS PROJECT, THE COUTURIER RECONNECTS WITH HIS FAVORITE THEMES: THE NOTION OF IDENTIT Y BEYOND GENDER, THE ESSENCE OF YOUTH AND THE FRAGILITY OF A STATE SUSPENDED SOMEWHERE BETWEEN CHILDHOOD AND ADULTHOOD. BUT ALSO, THE FRENCH SPIRIT AND ITS CULTURAL ROOTS THAT WEAVE A CLASSIC FRAMEWORK PERPETUALLY REINVENTING ELEGANCE.
THESE THEMES WERE ALREADY AT THE HEART OF THE HAUTE PARFUMERIE COLLECTION, WHERE THE PERFUMES SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS AND DANS PARIS RELATE PARISIAN YOUTH, TOGETHER WITH PARADE CELEBRATING THE IMMUTABLE RITUAL OF APPEARANCES.
THE PROJECT’S CONCEPT IS ALSO AUGMENTED BY A CULTURAL ELEMENT, NOTABLY FRENCH LITERATURE AND POETRY. A TRIBUTE CRYSTALLIZED IN A NAME, RIMBAUD, WHICH TAKES ON A DOUBLY SYMBOLIC AND PERSONAL DIMENSION.

AN AUTOBIOGRAPHICAL CHAPTER IN THE OLFACTORY JOURNAL
LITERATURE AND WRITING ARE AN INTEGRAL PART OF THE COUTURIER’S ARTISTIC VISION, IN BOTH HIS INSPIRATIONAL AND CREATIVE APPROACH.
FOR HEDI SLIMANE, IT’S ABOUT PLACING WORDS SO THAT HE CAN OUTLINE HIS OLFACTORY PROJECT AND DEFINE THE FEATURES OF A CHARACTER WHOSE CHARISMA IS INTERPRETED IN THE PERFUME’S TRAIL.
THE CHARACTER IN THIS NEW PERFUME IS ARTHUR RIMBAUD. THE COUTURIER DEDICATES A NEW CHAPTER TO HIM IN HIS OLFACTORYJOURNAL RECOLLECTING AN EPISODE FROM HIS OWN ADOLESCENCE. LIKE GENERATIONS OF TEENAGERS, HE AND HIS FRIENDS WERE FASCINATED BY THE YOUNG POET’S IMAGE. AN IMAGE THAT ALREADY SEEMED TO BE ONE OF ETERNAL AND UNIVERSAL YOUTH.
HEDI SLIMANE HAS ALWAYS WANTED TO CREATE A PERFUME ILLUSTRATING THIS PORTRAIT OF RIMBAUD OR THE PHOTOS OF THE YOUNG MEN AND WOMEN HE HAS TAKEN OVER THE LAST THIRTY YEARS OR SO.

A DELICATE AND NEO-CLASSIC DUALITY
RIMBAUD RECAPTURES THE STYLISH CODES OF THE COUTURIER, IN PARTICULAR MASCULINE-FEMININE AND NEO-CLASSIC LITERATURE.
AT THE HEART OF THE COMPOSITION, TWO NOTES CONTRAST AND REVISIT TOGETHER TWO EMBLEMATIC ACCORDS IN PERFUMERY; LAVENDER WHOSE AROMATIC FRESHNESS IS TRADITIONALLY USED IN MEN’S SCENTS AND THE ROOTS OF THE IRIS, KNOWN IN PERFUMERY AS ORRIS, USUALLY WITH MORE FEMININE POWDERY ACCENTS.
IN THIS PERFUME , EVERY THING PLAYS ON PARADOX AND DUALIT Y. LAVENDER’S UNEXPECTED AND DELICATE NUANCES BECOME SOFT AND MELANCHOLIC IN CONTACT WITH IRIS PROUDLY DISPLAYING ITS EXUBERANCE, AS IF INTOXICATED BY THE PROMISE OF A NEW OLFACTORY ADVENTURE. CHOSEN BY HEDI SLIMANE, THE DUO SIGNS A DELICATE, ALMOST INTROVERTED CRAFTSMANSHIP, A FORM OF OLFACTORY FRAGILITY, SUSPENDED OUTSIDE OF TIME, CLINGING LIGHTLY TO THE SKIN. LAVENDER ONE OF HEDI SLIMANE’S FAVORITE INGREDIENTS, IT ALREADY SIGNED HIS OLFACTORY CREATION EAU NOIRE FROM THE MAISON DIOR’S COLLECTION PRIVÉE IN 2004.
WITH ITS VIVACIOUS AND SUBTLE CAMPHOR-LIKE SCENT, LAVENDER IS AN ARCHETYPE FOR MASCULINE FRAGRANCES. FOR RIMBAUD, IN DUO WITH ORRIS FROM THE RHIZOMES OF THE IRIS, IT REVISITS THIS TRADITION IN REVERSE. AT THE HEART OF THE COMPOSITION, THE NOTION OF THE ACCORD’S GENDER VERY DELICATELY GIVES WAY TO THE MULTITUDE OF FEELINGS RESOUNDING IN EACH ONE OF US.
THE ESSENCE, AS WELL AS THE LAVENDER ABSOLUTE SELECTED BY THE MAISON CELINE, COMES FROM THE DRÔME IN HAUTE PROVENCE WHERE THE PLANT HAS BEEN CULTIVATED SINCE ANTIQUITY. IT IS THANKS TO THIS FLOWER THAT WE OWE THOSE VAST AND ENDLESS FIELDS OF BLUE LAVENDER BLOSSOMING UNDER THE PROVENCAL SUN. THE SPRIGS OF LAVENDER ARE HARVESTED BETWEEN THE MONTHS OF JULY AND AUGUST WHEN
THE FLOWERS BEGIN TO BLOOM AND DIFFUSE THEIR PERFUME. SO THAT THEY DON’T LOSE ANY OF THEIR OLFACTORY SUBTLETY, THEY ARE TREATED AT
THE FOOT OF THE FIELDS IMMEDIATELY AFTER HARVESTING. 100KG OF FLOWERS ARE NEEDED TO OBTAIN BETWEEN 500 AND 800ML OF ESSENTIAL OIL.

IRIS
THE IRIS IS ANOTHER ONE OF THE COUTURIER’S MUCH VALUED MATERIALS. ITS ELEGANT FRAGRANCE WAS ALREADY A PREDOMINANT OLFACTORY NOTE IN DIOR HOMME CREATED IN 2004. ITS GENTLE AND MUTED SCENT IS EMBLEMATIC OF THE POWDERY ACCORD SIGNING ALL THE CREATIONS IN THE CELINE HAUTE PARFUMERIE COLLECTION.
ORRIS, ONE OF THE MOST PRECIOUS INGREDIENTS IN PERFUMERY, IS OBTAINED FROM THE RHIZOMES OR ROOTS OF THE IRIS. IT OWES ITS RARITY TO ITS LOW CROP YIELD: 100KG OF DRIED RHIZOMES ONLY YIELD 300 GRAMS OF ORRIS BUTTER.
IT TAKES SIX YEARS TO OBTAIN THE ESSENTIAL OIL KNOWN IN PERFUMERY AS “ORRIS BUTTER”. IT IS NECESSARY TO WAIT PATIENTLY FOR THREE YEARS SO THAT THE PLANT, WHICH CONCENTRATES ITS PERFUMES IN ITS RHIZOMES, CAN BE HARVESTED. THEN ANOTHER THREE YEARS, THE TIME IT TAKES FOR THE RHIZOMES TO UNFOLD THEIR EXTRAORDINARY OLFACTORY RICHNESS.

THE POWDERY SIGNATURE
A POWDERY THEME CONNECTING ALL OF THE CREATIONS IN THE HAUTE PARFUMERIE COLLECTION IS ALSO TO BE FOUND IN THIS COMPOSITION, GUIDED BY THE IRIS AND ITS ELEGANT ROUNDNESS. A GENTLE AND IMPERCEPTIBLE VEIL OF SCENT, PERHAPS THE ONE IN THE PORTRAIT OF THE YOUNG POET,
STILL AN ADOLESCENT, BUT BURNISHED BY THE YEARS AND THE EYES OF GENERATIONS FASCINATED BY HIS MELANCHOLY GRACE.

THE BOTTLE
THE RECTANGULAR B OT TLE DESIGNED BY HEDI SLIMANE FOR CELINE IS IN KEEPING WITH THE GRE AT TRADITION OF FRENCH GLASSMAKING.
THE COUTURIER WISHED TO GIVE THE BOTTLE GREATER B ODY, BY WORKING ON THE LUXURIOUS WEIGHT OF GLASS AND THE BLACK LACQUER.
THE BOTTLE FOR THE CELINE HAUTE PARFUMERIE COLLECTION IS DECORATED ON T WO SIDES WITH SHARP-EDGED FLUTING AND TOPPED WITH A FACETED BLACK LACQUERED CAP. AN AESTHETIC INHERITED FROM LATE 17TH CENTURY CLASSICISM, WHOSE DISTINCTIVE MINIMALISM IMBUES THE B OT TLE WITH THE MODERNITY OF ART DECO: SPARE , TAUT LINES, A TOUCH OF BLACK LACQUER AND TRANSPARENT GLASS WHOSE CRAFTSMANSHIP HIGHLIGHTS THE REFLECTIONS OF THE PERFUME , NUANCED WITH SOFT AND VERY PALE ROSY GREY TONALITIES, THAT UNDERLINE THE DELICACY OF THE COMPOSITION AND THE P OETIC CHARACTER INSPIRING IT.
THE BOX IS ADORNED IN PAPER WITH A “GRAIN DE POUDRE” FEEL AND EMBOSSING THAT RECRE ATES THE EFFECT OF 17TH CENTURY MOLDINGS. THEY ARE INSPIRED BY THE WOODWORK PANELING IN THE HÔTEL COLBERT DE TORCY WHERE THE CELINE ATELIERS ARE
HOU SED AT 16, R UE VIVIENNE IN PARIS.
THE MAISON’S EMBLEM, THE “TRIOMPHE” IS ENGRAVED ON THE TOP OF THE CAP. IT WAS CHOSEN BY ITS FOUNDER, CÉLINE VIPIANA WHO, ONE DAY IN 1971, SAW HER SPLIT INITIAL C DESIGNED IN THE LINKS CINCHING THE “ARC DE TRIOMPHE”. IT COMES TO COMPLETE THIS B OTTLE’S SENSE OF BELONGING TO THE HISTORY OF THE COUTURE HOUSE .

JOURNAL OLFACTIF
RIMBAUD

AT THE AGE OF 14, AFTER OUR LESSONS, MY FRIENDS AND I WOULD RECITE RIMBAUD’S LE DORMEUR DU VAL (THE SLEEPER OF THE VALLEY) LYING IN THE GRASS, BEFORE DIVING BODY AND SOUL INTO LES ILLUMINATIONS. LIKE OTHERS BEFORE AND AFTER US, WE WERE FASCINATED BY THE FRAGILITY AND GRACE OF THE YOUNG POET AND FELT HIS TORMENTS AS IF THEY WERE OUR OWN. I REMEMBER THAT PICTURE OF RIMBAUD WHICH I KEPT WITH ME RELIGIOUSLY. ALREADY, IT SEEMED TO ME TO BE THE IMAGE OF ETERNAL AND UNIVERSAL YOUTH. I HAVE ALWAYS WANTED TO CREATE A PERFUME THAT EVOKES UTOPIA, THE VERY ESSENCE OF YOUTH, ILLUSTRATING THAT PICTURE OF RIMBAUD, OR THE PHOTOS OF THOUSANDS OF YOUNG MEN AND WOMEN I HAVE MADE OVER THE LAST 30 YE ARS. IN AN OLFACTORY MANNER, I HAD TO DEFINE THE GRACE , THE SOUL- SE ARCHING AND THE SPLEEN OF ADOLESCENTS, TO DISTILL THE QUINTESSENCE OF YOUTH. I OPTED FOR DELICATE AND INTROVERTED ACCORDS, A KIND OF OLFACTORY FRAGILITY, SUSPENDED, OUTSIDE OF TIME, SKIMMING LIGHTLY OVER THE SKIN. LAVENDER, NEROLI, ORRIS BUTTER, WHEAT ACCORD, MUSK AND VANILLA NOTES

available exclusively in CELINE HAUTE PARFUMERIE boutique, 390 rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, followed by a worldwide launch on January 21, 2022.

picture: @HediSlimane

Glaring typo spotted:
THE IRIS IS ANOTHER ONE OF THE COUTURIER’S MUCH VALUED MATERIALS. ITS ELEGANT FRAGRANCE WAS ALREADY A PREDOMINANT OLFACTORY NOTE IN DIOR HOMME CREATED IN 2004.
Dior Homme was created in 2005. Bois d'Argent, another Hedi fragrance with iris, was created in 2004.

Perhaps Hedi is referencing this photo of Rimbaud:
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Minotauro

Well-known member
Jul 12, 2021
I wasn't expecting much from Rimbaud's release, but the official notes really stump me.
They make me wonder: what is the idea behind calling a fragrance "Rimbaud"?

Rimbaud has always been one of the figures in literature that fascinates me the most; I have tried to read everything I have found about him. I think that the biography of Graham Robb is, despite some controversial interpretations and opinions in its final chapters (Africa), magnificent.
But it is normal, we are talking about the homme des semelles de vent, the man with the wind soles; most of his life is covered by an enigmatic uncertainty - is part of his charm - and this increases during the last years of his.

I am unaware of Slimane's knowledge of Rimbaud; I suppose that he will be very influenced by the countercultural movements, beat movements and others that in the 60s "consecrated" Rimbaud as one of his icons. In any case, this still doesn't make sense to me.

Rimbaud, the vagabond, the adolescent possessed by Poe's The Imp of the Pervers, a genius of language and visions, capable of cultivating a swarm of lice in his mane to throw them at priests when they passed by. The friend capable of stabbing to his best friend or to empty his pipe into the nostrils of a horse for almost the mere fact of experiencing it. A pale figure that remained for hours in the semi-darkness suspecting his "season in hell" cradled by the effects of absinthe and from hashish. The man who forgot his homeland and his genius and went to Africa to be another... he suddenly becomes a bourgeois.

Lavender, musk, orris butter, vanilla, neroli ... 80% of the Celine line shares practically the same orris butter-vanilla-musk base.
"It is one of the hallmarks of the brand image" - some will say. As if launching fragrances with the same base was that, and launching them with totally different bases was not.
"Economy of means" - I would say.

And next to it, lavender and delicious floral notes.

Lavender. You cannot be more French, conservative and bourgeois. Caron pour Homme.

Yesterday I read a review of Rimbaud from a friend: an Eau Noire, clean, crystalline, ethereal.
Lavender-iris and luscious transparent floral notes; similarities with Chanel Jersey.
More Slimbaud than Rimbaud.
Rimbaud, the holy poet. The eternal adolescent. The virgin.
The transvestism of a figure with shameless chrematistic purposes. Again.
Sigh.
 

cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
They make me wonder: what is the idea behind calling a fragrance "Rimbaud"?
Based on what I've read so far, it seems like Rimbaud represents an idea that Hedi wants to capture: youth, fragility, and spleen. I think it speaks to Hedi's obsession towards youth stemming all the way back to his childhood obsession with Rimbaud. I think it fits neatly into his bourgeoisie narrative for Celine, and he has referenced the Sorbonne, Baudelaire, and Huysman before for Parade. I think this whole emphasis on literature makes a lot more sense as part of Celine than at Saint Laurent.
Rimbaud has always been one of the figures in literature that fascinates me the most; I have tried to read everything I have found about him. I think that the biography of Graham Robb is, despite some controversial interpretations and opinions in its final chapters (Africa), magnificent.
But it is normal, we are talking about the homme des semelles de vent, the man with the wind soles; most of his life is covered by an enigmatic uncertainty - is part of his charm - and this increases during the last years of his.
I'm almost 100% positive that Hedi doesn't want to associate Celine with how Rimbaud actually lived his life. I'm almost sure he wanted to capture specifically this idealized image of Rimbaud:
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I mean creative directors do this all the time. Talking about their travels, or people dear to them. The particularly facets of Rimbaud that attract Hedi, act as a source of inspiration for his fragrance, Rimbaud.
I REMEMBER THAT PICTURE OF RIMBAUD WHICH I KEPT WITH ME RELIGIOUSLY. I HAVE ALWAYS WANTED TO CREATE A PERFUME THAT EVOKES UTOPIA, THE VERY ESSENCE OF YOUTH, ILLUSTRATING THAT PICTURE OF RIMBAUD, OR THE PHOTOS OF THOUSANDS OF YOUNG MEN AND WOMEN I HAVE MADE OVER THE LAST 30 YE ARS. A GENTLE AND IMPERCEPTIBLE VEIL OF SCENT, PERHAPS THE ONE IN THE PORTRAIT OF THE YOUNG POET, STILL AN ADOLESCENT, BUT BURNISHED BY THE YEARS AND THE EYES OF GENERATIONS FASCINATED BY HIS MELANCHOLY GRACE.
Seems to me this is a fragrance that evokes the feeling that Rimbaud's portrait gives to Hedi, which are feelings of utopia, essence of youth, gentleness, and melancholy grace.

Rimbaud, the vagabond, the adolescent possessed by Poe's The Imp of the Pervers, a genius of language and visions, capable of cultivating a swarm of lice in his mane to throw them at priests when they passed by. The friend capable of stabbing to his best friend or to empty his pipe into the nostrils of a horse for almost the mere fact of experiencing it. A pale figure that remained for hours in the semi-darkness suspecting his "season in hell" cradled by the effects of absinthe and from hashish. The man who forgot his homeland and his genius and went to Africa to be another... he suddenly becomes a bourgeois.
All of this just sounds disgusting, and doesn't seem to be how Hedi describes Rimbaud. I empathize with how you feel like a fragrance called Rimbaud should capture the entirety of Rimbaud. I would disagree with that, and I think capturing just a facet of him is enough.
Lavender, musk, orris butter, vanilla, neroli ... 80% of the Celine line shares practically the same orris butter-vanilla-musk base.
"It is one of the hallmarks of the brand image" - some will say. As if launching fragrances with the same base was that, and launching them with totally different bases was not.
"Economy of means" - I would say.
To me, notes are merely marketing and don't truly reflect how the fragrances actually smell. If you blindfolded me, I would be able to differentiate all 9 fragrances from each other. They all do share a similar aesthetic though, and I think that's the hallmark of a strong brand. I think it would be disingenuous for a brand to just release fragrances that smell like it could have come from another brand. Perhaps I can see a similarity between the base of Black Tie and Dans Paris in the very late dry down, but beyond that the fragrances don't really smell the same.
 

Minotauro

Well-known member
Jul 12, 2021
My initial discouragement has prevented me from sharing the full opinion of someone who has tried it; here I leave his basic impressions for those interested.

"Lavender-crystal.
In the same league as lavender soliflowers like Caron Pour un Homme, Brin De Reglisse n Hermes and Chanel Jersey.
In Rimbaud we find exactly this same lavender-iris pattern as in Eau Noire but here with much more finesse and transparency.
I think of Jersey, because they are quite close, but Rimbaud is, clearer, more crystalline.

The iris naturally glides over a fine lavender with accents of fresh thyme, red berries and fresh flowers, the light wood notes naturally push it towards a background that is covered in tonka bean and vanilla, the signature found in many of the brand fragrances.
The print is delicately powdery smooth and remarkably fine. "
 

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
My initial discouragement has prevented me from sharing the full opinion of someone who has tried it; here I leave his basic impressions for those interested.

"Lavender-crystal.
In the same league as lavender soliflowers like Caron Pour un Homme, Brin De Reglisse n Hermes and Chanel Jersey.
In Rimbaud we find exactly this same lavender-iris pattern as in Eau Noire but here with much more finesse and transparency.
I think of Jersey, because they are quite close, but Rimbaud is, clearer, more crystalline.

The iris naturally glides over a fine lavender with accents of fresh thyme, red berries and fresh flowers, the light wood notes naturally push it towards a background that is covered in tonka bean and vanilla, the signature found in many of the brand fragrances.
The print is delicately powdery smooth and remarkably fine. "
Thanks for sharing. Seems like most reviews are in French due to it being launched there first.


Rimbaud: Crystal-Lavender

In Eau Noire, Hedi had already explored his affection for lavender, but through a hot and dry prism, the latter being supported by immortelle and cistus, and always accompanied by an iris frame. In Rimbaud, we find exactly this same lavender-iris frame, but here it is worked with great finesse and transparency, all in elegance. I think of Jersey, because they are quite close, but Rimbaud is clearer, more limpid, more crystalline. The iris slides naturally over a fine lavender with accents of fresh thyme, red fruits and fresh flowers, notes of light wood draw it naturally towards a base which is draped in tonka bean and vanilla, the signature that we found in many of the brand's fragrances. The print is delicately powdery, soft and remarkably fine. Wanting to combine the spirit of youth and the nostalgia of the poet, Rimbaud propels one of the most traditional raw materials into a very contemporary universe with an elegance, finesse and lightness that I find dazzling.
I never noticed iris or orris butter in Eau Noire. I'll see if I pick anything up next time I wear it.
 

wilfred

Well-known member
Jan 13, 2016
Simply a comment about the word spleen; I do not want to look like a smart ass but I will risk looking like it if this serves so that some reader of this thread to avoid confusion.
The word spleen here is used in Baudelerian terms, one might say, a term/mood used by Charles Baudelaire.
I leave a link as a tiny reference.
https://niklasblog.com/?p=20851
well now it makes some sort of sense. but you know how these brands can be with throwing things out there just to sound fancy or abstract.
 

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
Simply a comment about the word spleen; I do not want to look like a smart ass but I will risk looking like it if this serves so that some reader of this thread to avoid confusion.
The word spleen here is used in Baudelerian terms, one might say, a term/mood used by Charles Baudelaire.
I leave a link as a tiny reference.
https://niklasblog.com/?p=20851
I think you're 100% right here, and the only people who would consider you a smart ass are those who are hugely insecure themselves.

“melancholy with no apparent cause, characterised by a disgust with everything”
Spleen sounds like a more poetic version of teen age angst, rebellion, or insouciance.

This is what spleen looks like in Hedi's Celine universe:

Her eyes, the way she looks you up and down.
 

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
I asked my friend who works at the Madison Ave boutique, and they don't have Rimbaud nor the candles in yet. I wonder when they will make it to the U.S.
Supposedly Rimbaud will be available Jan. 21. I wonder how early the stores get the fragrances before they're allowed to sell them. Maybe a week in advance? Just in time for Lunar New Year which is on Feb. 1st this year.
 

Nom de Guerre

Well-known member
Jan 2, 2020
Simply a comment about the word spleen; I do not want to look like a smart ass but I will risk looking like it if this serves so that some reader of this thread to avoid confusion.
The word spleen here is used in Baudelerian terms, one might say, a term/mood used by Charles Baudelaire.
I leave a link as a tiny reference.
https://niklasblog.com/?p=20851

I was close with my bad wording. On purpose, of course – to not sound like a smart ass 😂
 
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hednic

Well-known member
Oct 25, 2007
Received my Rimbaud 100ml bottle from Paris today as expected. Just opened the package an hour ago and sprayed it on the back of my hand to get a quick sniff. It smells wonderful. Will be my SOTD tomorrow. A nice lavender-iris mix, and not as powdery as I thought which is great. I'll have a better feel tomorrow afternoon after having worn it for a few hours., but first impression is very positive.
 

cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015
Received my Rimbaud 100ml bottle from Paris today as expected. Just opened the package an hour ago and sprayed it on the back of my hand to get a quick sniff. It smells wonderful. Will be my SOTD tomorrow. A nice lavender-iris mix, and not as powdery as I thought which is great. I'll have a better feel tomorrow afternoon after having worn it for a few hours., but first impression is very positive.
Does it smell anything like Eau Noire? I just wore my original bottle of Eau Noire today and ya know what, it's not that great! Actually too spicy for me. It brings back memories so I would never sell it, but an updated take on lavender under Hedi's direction would be welcome! Not to mention I'm almost certain FK is making these too.
 

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