NEW: La Collection Celine Haute Parfumerie

Celinman

Banned
Jan 22, 2019
Black Tie is the second of the nine I have tried. A lovely woody oriental with a creamy vanilla, mossy woody thing going on that has wonderful performance. Will be giving it a full day's wearing tomorrow.

On fragrantica, one user has compared it to Bois d'Argent. Do you see any similarities between Black Tie and Bois d'Argent?
 

Redneck Perfumisto

League of Cycloöctadiene Isomer Aestheticists
Basenotes Plus
Feb 27, 2008
Just finished today wearing the last of the nine and I have to say IMO this collection is superb!

Based on the styles, do you have any wild guesses on perfumers, house similarities, or other useful comparisons?

Bear in mind that house perfumers typically have moonlighting clauses in their contracts, so these fragrances could feel like the work of many employed and retired greats.
 

cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015
I've had a chance to try them all now and some a few times, at first I wasn't a huge fan due to the abundance of powdery vanilla notes which are things I usually avoid in fragrance, but they are all nice and some have grown on me quite a bit. What bothered me at first is several of them dry down to a similar powdery/orris/sweet smell which are 3 things I really don't like in fragrance (I like iris sometimes but hate powdery and sweetness).

Nightclubbing has a really interesting opening but after a full wear I got super sweet buttery orris at the dry down, Cologne Francaise has a delicious fig in the opening but again a similar dry down that I'm not so fond of. Reptile is nice but a little generic "men's cologne", Parade also has a great fresh bergamot opening and neroli that lasts on top of the creamy iris base. Black tie does remind me a lot of bois d'argent, it's definitely got that signature Hedi smell from bois but it is a bit different (a bit quieter and more refined than bois which is a cloying monster on me). Eau de Californie I can see being the most popular it's a very likable slightly smokey woody scent but just a little generic for me.

I'm a huge fan of Hedi as a designer and creative director and I think what he's done here is interesting having several perfumes with a common house thread but whether you like these or not depends a lot on how you feel about that base. For me, every time I think I like one I change my mind a few hours later when it gets to the dry down.

P.S. a close friend of mine works at the Madison ave boutique, if you want to go in there or order one by phone let me know I can put you in contact!
 
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morriswhat

Member
Oct 12, 2019
Nightclubbing sounds really interesting to me. Looking forward to hear more about this collection.

Sent from my H3123 using Tapatalk
 

Hubertus

New member
Sep 12, 2006
I have tried them at the Celine store. My remarks:

PARADE
Very classic balanced cologne with lots of persisting neroli. I did not percieve a lot of powdery notes at the end (which I was longing for) so this is not my favourite.

SAINT GERMAIN DE PRES
This is a spectacular extremely unusual cologne. I was expecting, again, a warmer powdery note from the heliotrope, instead the top notes are balsamic, almost medicinal. Plus, I oddly smell a lot of nicotine (in a very good way). The drydown is instead amazingly warm, and powdery (to me, very similar to Cologne Blanche and Boid d'Argent).

COLOGNE FRANCAISE
Another nice unusual turn on classic cologne due to the fig (tree) which gives a green note along with the more powdery ones. The drydown turns on the mossy side (which I am not a big fan of)

DANS PARIS
The opening is beautifully gourmand, it's an sicilian almond granita. The drydown is more masculine and balsamic. Definitely one of my favourite. To me it is a bolder version of Cologne Blanche.

LA PEAU NUE
Another spectacular one. The opening is a lipstick-orris root explosion which in a minute turns into something more quiet and very clean and balmy (there should be some rose in here, but I do not feel it so much on me) and then the vetiver which eventually makes everything smell soapy, barber-shop.

I have tried the remaining ones but on paper-tester so I do not have a clear impression.

In general, I think the quality is outstanding and the way they develop on the skin is very surprising. It is true there is a lot of continental Europe in the 70s in here. It is something classic turning into something unseen sexier and bolder. Bravo!
 

Strollyourlobster

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2006
I'd be grateful for a fuller description of Eau de Californie.
Hednic, you like it but it hasn't changed your life? What if I just want my life changed back? Although I have to say that my own California childhood smelled more like dust and gasoline than palo santo, I'm always eager for French respellings of my home state. Thoughts? Smells?
 

colourblind

Well-known member
Aug 11, 2013
I blind bought black tie and parade, but regretted on Parade. I don't really like Neroli, so I shouldn't have gotten this one even though its Hedi favourite. I really like black tie though. I also got samples of night clubbing which is really nice on skin, with this warm smokiness. And reptile is also very nice leather note but I probably wouldn't wear it often. But I loved la peau nue.... Stunning. Its clean, powdery and it stays quite long and you get whiffs of it on and off and makes you totally fall in love with it. Omg I regret getting parade instead of La peau nue
 

Celinman

Banned
Jan 22, 2019
But I loved la peau nue.... Stunning. Its clean, powdery and it stays quite long and you get whiffs of it on and off and makes you totally fall in love with it.

The way they’re marketing it totally turns me off. 70s heroine. I’m surprised to continue to hear how many people seem to like that one. I really shouldn’t write it off before even trying it.
 

SeaEssP

Member
Oct 31, 2019
I'd be grateful for a fuller description of Eau de Californie.
Hednic, you like it but it hasn't changed your life? What if I just want my life changed back? Although I have to say that my own California childhood smelled more like dust and gasoline than palo santo, I'm always eager for French respellings of my home state. Thoughts? Smells?


seconding some more impressions of Eau de Californie
 

nowave

New member
Nov 27, 2019
I currently own Black Tie 100mL, as well as have 10mL samples of Reptile and Dans Paris; as well as rollerball samples of Nightclubbing and Saint Germain Des Prés.
Here are my impressions of each one (from most liked to least); I went to a night event to test each of the scents.

Black Tie - Really sharp and "tailoured" scent. On my skin it really has a nice balance of Vanilla and Cedar, and on the drydown gives off a sweet signature with the Vanilla being the main focus and is blurred with a powder-y veil. But I've also found this scent projects well for a couple of hours and then hugs close to my skin, so I wish it kinda kept going longer.

Dans Paris - A WAY more Vanilla infused counterpart to Black Tie. I see this working as an amazing pairing for the day and Black Tie for the night (This is if you don't get tired or sick of the all-day vanilla smell). This was the main competitor for me for which fragrance to pick up first, but this gives off a more "soft" and "warm" feeling in comparison to Black Tie. This actually projects on my skin for a LONG time, from day spray until night the sillage is amazing.

Saint Germain Des Prés - This is a tie for me for my favorite day fragrance with Dans Paris.
First spray throughout the whole day gives me the image of a Church Cathedral with the Priest misting everyone with Incense. It's simultaneously Cool and Warm, Sweet and Floral and very slightly Woody. Elegant.

Parade - This is the most popular fragrance in Japan (probably also because everyone heard Hedi wore it).
I honestly like this at face value, the Citrus is nice and it really seems to stick on the skin for a long while. I have a bad feeling I'll get tired of smelling this though from other people.

Cologne Francaise - Feminine leaning but with the concentration of a Cologne. This smelled very luxe, again elegant.

Nightclubbing - DEFINITELY captured the essence of the inside/outside of a club here. Very literal, Boozy, Tobacco, Sweat (?). But it all comes together nicely I think.
I own the sample for this, but I don't really go out to clubs and this is a little too much of a night scent to start wearing in the morning
(unless you want that sleazy "I just rolled into work from being in a club all night and didn't stop by home) vibe. Smells like leaving the club and it's morning outside.

Eau De Californie - Maybe I would've liked this when I first started getting into fragrances, but this didn't really stand out too special for me.
Sense of burning wood, almost a very tame version of Margiela's "Jazz Club".

Reptile - A HYPERMASCULINE fragrance. This really isn't that bad, and in fact I could see a lot of people wearing this scent. This is just not for me personally.
Definitely sketchy 70's car salesman with collar wide open. Could be a good daytime pairing for Nightclubbing.

La Peau Nue - In comparison a HYPERFEMININE fragrance for me. The rose and "lipstick" leaning scent is really strong, so I wouldn't wear this personally.
But I could see this working well on women. Out of all of the fragrances released so far, this one convinced me the least.

Overall a very very solid collection of fragrances; I think could reach a large audience despite the heavy powdery-veil all of these have.
My next planned purchase will be either Dans Paris or Saint Germain Des Prés in 100mL.
 

PeaSea

Active member
Sep 29, 2012
anyone have any more impressions or comparisons for St Germain and Cologne Francais? I'm going to blind buy one but would like to get a little more of an olfactory idea to narrow it down. I like warm comforting scents that I can wear daily; my fav is Helmut Lang EDC, so something with a similar vibe would be ideal (based on previous descriptions I think SGP is the one to go for)
 

Celinman

Banned
Jan 22, 2019
Cologne Française is probably more comforting than Saint-Germain-des-Prés just based on what I've been reading so far
 

cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015
Both are nice, St. Germain is a bit more interesting to me there's something weird in it (in a good way) I can't quite place, almost something rubbery/skanky underlying it. Cologne Francais is more straightforward creamy neroli with really nice fig at the opening, definitely the easier of the two to wear but I personally tend to go toward the more interesting choice.

St Germain leans more powdery while Cologne Francais leans more creamy if that helps.
 

cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015
Also an addendum to my originally tepid review after trying them a 3rd time at the store and living with a few samples at home:

After trying them more I've come around to liking the powdery/orris base in a lot of these, it's just not my usual style so took a little getting used to. For me the standouts are still Night Clubbing, and adding Reptile and Saint Germain coming up right after that. There's something very interesting in Saint Germain I can't put my finger on that makes me keep coming back and smelling. Reptile is a super sharp very dressed up night kind of fragrance. I'm even starting to like Black Tie though I usually hate anything vanilla, almost reminds me of musc ravageur and I can see it being a great warming winter fragrance. Overall there isn't a bad fragrance in the bunch and everything smells expensive and refined. Some are more unique than others but the more generic ones are great versions of the genre (Parade is a great bright summery bergamot and Eau De Californie a nice classic woody masculine)

I'm excited for the two remaining to be released (Rimbaud and Bois Dormant) as those sound more to my usual taste. But I'm tempted to just go ahead and buy Black Tie because it's most unlike my usual taste but I can see it growing on me.
 

nowave

New member
Nov 27, 2019
I would agree with something about St. Germain that's a bit...weird.
For me, I got this weird hit of a nostalgic feeling of being in Church; a Cathedral.
It's a really sterile, almost old, but clean smell for me, old wood, light incense, springtime cool wind.

I highly recommend going in for Black Tie; that's the one I settled on for my first fragrance and I love it from morning to night (but sadly the project on it later in the evening definitely dies down a lot, it hugs my skin closely unless I re-spray).

Dans Paris is really comforting to me, it's a warm fragrance and feels "cozy". My only problem is if I wear this in the morning and Black Tie at night; is that it's too much Vanilla overload.

Cologne Francaise kinda took me by surprise, I did another sample smell of it and really ended up liking it. It's more "grown-up" than Saint Germain and Dans Paris.

I'm stuck between those three right now for my next daytime fragrance...
 

PeaSea

Active member
Sep 29, 2012
got to try Parade today, smells very similar to Eau de New York by Bond No 9

still on the hunt for samples of Reptile, EDC, Cologne Francais, Black Tie, and Night Clubbing if anyone has some to sell or trade.
 

cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015
It depends a lot on which one. Night clubbing, Saint Germain, Parade, Reptile are all pretty strong and long lasting. While others like Eau de Californie and especially Black Tie are very light (good longevity but stays VERY close to the skin).
 

haydn

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2003
They are now available in Hong Kong. Price is 1600 HKD for 100ml making them slightly less expensive than the US prices (and no tax!). The two shops in the Landmark mall have them.

Was in a rush to try everything but the staff were well informed and guided my experience. They are lined up on the trays the same way they are displayed online - from day to evening. First impressions were good. In love with reptile!!! I left with a bottle. I imagine it’s what a lightening bolt would smell like. Hard to discribe, but it’s a stand out from the rest for me. I also really enjoyed Black Tie, but the projection and intensity were too weak for me (but I do have a light cold - will revisit again). Left with samples of Saint Germain De Pres and Black Tie. Staff provide two samples with purchase that are scanned and added to the receipt.

Also love the presentation. Very elegant. Placing the scented blotter papers in a small envelop, the packaging of the boxes, the heavy bags. It’s all very beautiful.
 

PeaSea

Active member
Sep 29, 2012
Some more impressions:

Black Tie: boozy musky vanilla, some people have made comparisons to Bois Dargent and I don't get that at all. The drydown is a little reminiscent of the the Eau Noire drydown however.

La Peau Neu: zingy iris with a vetiver drydown, I pick up hints of the rice powder too

Eau De Californie: I don't agree that this smells like Jazz Club, reminds me of something CDG would release. Very woodsy but weak performance.

Dans Paris: play doh-y sweet pastry

SGP: lots of heliotrope and vanilla, someone mentioned a little reminiscent of Tide and I kind of get that.

I struggle to describe Dans Paris and SGP but those two stand out the most from what I've sampled. I think I'll be getting a bottle of SGP, but I'm still trying to get ahold of the rest of the set
 
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RawM.I.A.

Wait, What's That Smell?!
Basenotes Plus
Jan 25, 2017
I went there a couple weeks ago and was told that the fragrance collection is not in this boutique in Miami.

bZ9JF6d.jpg


Stopped by today & they finally have them in.
The 2 SA's that helped me were very nice & gave me 2 samples.
 

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