NEW: La Collection Celine Haute Parfumerie

[mateusz.olech]

There's a beauty to a permanent set of 11 that represents something more than just a commercial product. It makes more of a statement that this set of 11 is a complete work of art.

Totally agree! Let's take a look at Dior Privee. We have fantastic Trilogy and some other better or worse fragrances. Dior is pumping a new fragrance each year, sometimes even more than one! You're right there is a beauty in this permanent 11 fragrances. Maybe at some point they will create Les Eaux range like Chanel did, light fragrances for summer? You have mentioned that they already have quite extended day wear collection and only few fragrances for night wear... sooo I don't know, but I am very curious to see what's going to happen next!

 

[cheapimitation]

I think one thing I would be curious about picking up will be a Grands Lys candle. My only hesitation is that I've never really explored home scenting before, so I'm still trying to rationalize why I would want to start now. I guess I am curious to see what Hedi considers is appropriate ambient scents, and it can be useful data I could use in the future when his candles aren't available anymore.

At least from my experience with the Papier Froisees candle, they are very much in line with the overall house aesthetic. I get a hint of that special sauce that I find in many of the perfumes, and it has a warm elegant atmosphere that isn't too strong which is also how the perfumes wear.

I hope Hedi sticks around awhile longer, even if his design language is repetitive, I like having the option there. His tailoring is timeless and second to none, just go touch a Saint Laurent suit today and it feels like Zara compared to a Celine suit or a Saint Laurent suit under Hedi's tenure. I hope I can at least get a suit or some classic items from his tenure at Celine before he leaves.

 

[imm0rtelle]

I hope Hedi sticks around awhile longer, even if his design language is repetitive, I like having the option there

Hedi's thoughts on this topic:

“I like to pursue organically one single idea. How many styles can you have?” he says. “Singers—there’s a tessitura to each one: The first second you hear the voice. So: How to progress without being repetitive? That’s a question I find very interesting.”

The couturier, not to be confused with a stylist, prints his personality, his commitment and his identifiable style, provided, ideally, that he has them. This does not prevent him, like a director whose style is recognised, from having a script, what you call the pedigree of the house.

I constantly use my own vocabulary, and the sense of repetition of the same signs, and semiotic, the permanence of a silhouette, or proportions, and overall representation. I always believed in repetition, pursuing endlessly the same idea. You cannot own more than one identified style and you need to evolve within the same codes. I transform and borrow constantly from my past collections, what I believe to be making sense or relevant today.

While it is obvious to me that the Celine fragrances are very Hedi in style, it does make me wonder how much of the Celine fragrances are filtered through the lens of his "script" for Celine.

 

[imm0rtelle]

Dans Paris review:

Katherine | Perfumista & reviewer on Instagram: "Winter Recommendations. Post 3 ❄️ Plush, sensual, with intriguing glimmers of bittersweet greens, Dans Paris takes you on a romantic escapade through the bohemian Paris.💫✨ I have been obsessed with

916 Likes, 62 Comments - Katherine | Perfumista & reviewer (@mytopnotes) on Instagram: "Winter Recommendations. Post 3 ❄️ Plush, sensual, with intriguing glimmers of bittersweet g..."

www.instagram.com

Plush, sensual, with intriguing glimmers of bittersweet greens, Dans Paris takes you on a romantic escapade through the bohemian Paris.💫✨

I have been obsessed with Dans Paris ever since I first tried it in a Celine boutique. To me, it is a swath of floral gourmand warmth with the refinement and magic woven into every single note. And while the composition is as minimalist as they come, the scent manages to create a rich and captivating experience.

Dans Paris opens with a veil of coriander and bergamot thrown over a powdery, vanilla-tinged laurel blossom. As the scent evolves, I get a distinct Shalimar Millésime Tonka vibe—but subtler and sweeter, with the gorgeous boozy freshness bringing life to the powdery notes until they seem to shimmer over my skin. I definitely pick up a tantalizing drop of rum that spices us the otherwise silky and fluffy vanilla.

There’s no tonka listed in the pyramid but I get the warm, familiar nuttiness of tonka that pairs beautifully with the floral vanilla. These notes develop in perfect harmony, highlighting the effervescent laurel blossom accord. I have never smelled an actual laurel blossom before but I pick up a floral, spicy and slightly camphorated note that imbues vanilla with its velvety orchid aroma, giving the entire composition a certain undefinable charm. Furry musk in the base warms up the scent, giving it a creamy consistency and slow, languorous feel.

While somewhat linear in development, Dans Paris is a gorgeous, simultaneously creamy and powdery perfume, with an almost savory heart. It makes me think of an orchid-flavored vanilla custard, one you’d want to slather all over your skin rather than consume.

My fragrance of choice this holiday season, Dans Paris will be perfect for those who love powdery, impossibly chic yet understated vanillas in the vein of Cuir Beluga, Angelique Noir and Vanille 44.✨💫✨

 

[imm0rtelle]

Black Tie review:

Katherine | Perfumista & reviewer on Instagram: "Who else enjoys a sumptuous vanilla gourmand? Inspired by the slick shape of a tailored dinner jacket, Black Tie by Celine Paris is a rich woody vanilla that is made for winter festivities. As soon as

519 Likes, 76 Comments - Katherine | Perfumista & reviewer (@mytopnotes) on Instagram: "Who else enjoys a sumptuous vanilla gourmand? Inspired by the slick shape of a tailored dinner j..."

www.instagram.com

Who else enjoys a sumptuous vanilla gourmand?

Inspired by the slick shape of a tailored dinner jacket, Black Tie by Celine Paris is a rich woody vanilla that is made for winter festivities. As soon as I spritzed it on, I was completely enthralled by its luscious gourmand magic. To me, Black Tie showcases the majestic qualities of the dark, non-confectionery vanilla, the beauty of orris butter, the sensuality of musk and the allure of cedar and tree moss, all with class and panache—and yes, I do glimpse the fluid satin sheen of the elegant garment that inspired it, too.🖤💫🖤

Black Tie was an instant and profound love for me. It is an opulent, yet cosy scent that reminds me of attending a glamorous evening gala, complete with the golden glitter of cascading crystal chandeliers and a freshly-made profiteroles stand next to the dance floor. That’s right—right from the opening, I get the most mouthwatering puff pastry accord—buttery, a little crispy around the edges, the crispness courtesy of the beautifully structured notes of cedar and tree moss, drowning in divine, whipped-frosting musk. It also has a truly spectacular dark vanilla base that serves as the warm underpinning to the soft woody notes and mixes seamlessly with the buttery orris.

The vanilla and orris blend is heaven to my nose, the custard-like orris imparting vanilla a refined decadence. It gives me the same voluptuous, yet elegant vibes I adore in Musc Ravageur, Babycat and Isra & Miraj and can’t get enough of in Black Tie.

As I move across the imaginary dance floor, Black Tie envelopes me in a dense cloud of scent—welcoming, seductive and insanely addictive. It is a beast mode fragrance that projects with great flair for the first three hours and lasts the entire day…and into the next one. Highly recommend to anyone who enjoys unapologetically rich, layered vanillas, such as Tyl by Tiziana Terenzi, Sweetie Aoud by Roja and Vanilla Diorama by Dior. Black Tie truly is an affair to remember!!✨🖤✨

 

[Vitamin D]

My girlfriend has been wearing the Dan Paris sample I had a lot recently and it smells amazing on her. I might have to buy it for Christmas. 😄

 

[imm0rtelle]

Meanwhile I've switched from ambivalence to obsession with Bois Dormant. Katherine has said in a couple of comments on her Instagram of how Bois Dormant reminds her of a modernized Sycamore. I haven't smelled Sycamore, so I can't confirm.

 

[Nom de Guerre]

Meanwhile I've switched from ambivalence to obsession with Bois Dormant. Katherine has said in a couple of comments on her Instagram of how Bois Dormant reminds her of a modernized Sycamore. I haven't smelled Sycamore, so I can't confirm.

It's Sycomore. Not sure I see the resemblance except for vetiver in both but I agree, it's grown on me as well.

 

[Vitamin D]

I have and love Sycomore, and Bois Dormant doesn’t remind me of it at all really. I still have my sample of Bois Dormant, so I may have to try it again here and see what I think. I was just really let down by it after hyping it up in my head. Something just didn’t smell right with it.


Could a guy pull off Nightclubbing? Like, pull it off by most people’s standards? I am in love with that unique scent but it just leans feminine in my mind. Such a bummer.

 

[PourHomie]

I have and love Sycomore, and Bois Dormant doesn’t remind me of it at all really. I still have my sample of Bois Dormant, so I may have to try it again here and see what I think. I was just really let down by it after hyping it up in my head. Something just didn’t smell right with it.


Could a guy pull off Nightclubbing? Like, pull it off by most people’s standards? I am in love with that unique scent but it just leans feminine in my mind. Such a bummer.

Of course. To me it doesnt lean feminine

 

[imm0rtelle]

Could a guy pull off Nightclubbing? Like, pull it off by most people’s standards? I am in love with that unique scent but it just leans feminine in my mind. Such a bummer.

Yeah, Nightclubbing also registers as feminine-leaning for me due to the make up powdery vibe....but the cigarette smoke accord was just too good to resist for me. But I feel like the cigarette smoke facet is masculine. So the fragrance is more like a combination. It has both masculine and feminine facets.

I have and love Sycomore, and Bois Dormant doesn’t remind me of it at all really. I still have my sample of Bois Dormant, so I may have to try it again here and see what I think. I was just really let down by it after hyping it up in my head. Something just didn’t smell right with it.

If Nightclubbing is too feminine for your tastes, I feel like Bois Dormant might be a something that captures facets of Nightclubbing and leans less feminine. I'm 99.9% sure they're by the same perfumer.

The opening has facets of the cigarette smokiness of Nightclubbing, but it is less obvious so it leans a bit more elegant. This first phase burns off quite quickly. I think it is worth at least using up your entire sample before making a final decision. It definitely grew on me, so if I just used my initial first impressions to judge it, my judgement wouldn't totally capture how I would later feel about it.

 

[imm0rtelle]

I might not have been excited about each one of them at the first sniff but due to the quality time spent, I have chosen the ones I reached for the most. They are all quite comforting and cozy and maybe that is what was needed this year.

The author prefaces talking about Bois Dormont by bringing up how it might not have wow'd them the most on first sniff, but it is something they keep going back to again and again, and I really resonate with that. There is just something that feels good when I wear the Celine fragrances. I still remember how I was not particularly impressed when I first sniffed them in store. They just really bloomed when I gave them time to really "listen" to what they're trying to say.

A casual and chic fragrance that exudes an attitude of streetwear cool.



This is a feel-good, confidence booster everyday fragrance. You can go formal and casual with it, just like with a modern version of the double-breasted flannel blazer the fragrance is dedicated to. Cedarwood takes the center stage, with its green freshness and dryness, supported by earthy vetiver in the drydown. Aromatic notes give off a residual cologne effect. Signature to Celine, there is the warmth of orris butter with a powdery effect. The vibe is effortlessly cool.

 

[hednic]

The 11 exclusives from this house were among the best exclusive line fragrances I have bought.

 

[mateusz.olech]

I have acquired Bois Dormant and although I am not super wowed with it right now, I am quite happy. I don’t see huge connection to Black Tie, but it is much closer to Nightclubbing with this slightly green opening and definitely woody as Eau de Californie. Many people compared it to Dior Homme… well I can agree, but it is the same level of similarity as Nightclubbing to Dior Home which is only a fleeting memory. They are very different in fact.

 

[flamechief]

I have and love Sycomore, and Bois Dormant doesn’t remind me of it at all really. I still have my sample of Bois Dormant, so I may have to try it again here and see what I think. I was just really let down by it after hyping it up in my head. Something just didn’t smell right with it.


Could a guy pull off Nightclubbing? Like, pull it off by most people’s standards? I am in love with that unique scent but it just leans feminine in my mind. Such a bummer.

Absolutely. I do regularly. Works especially well on cold mornings from my experience.

 

[cheapimitation]

I was reading the write up about the latest Celine menswear show at The Palace in Wallpaper mag and came across this tidbit about fragrance:

In a playful nod to the collection’s setting, each look was completed with a spritz of Celine’s ‘Nightclubbing’ Haute Parfumerie fragrance, a heady scent of galbanum, vanilla, musk and patchouli created by Slimane to evoke ‘an electric atmosphere with accents of nicotine... somewhere between the scent of crimson velvet seats and the sensuality of the nape of a neck fragrant with vanilla,’ according to the house. ‘A perfume for night birds fed by the memory of Parisian nights.’

 

[Vitamin D]

Question for those in the know:

When fragrances from places like Celine are discontinued, are there any notices sent out? Like, will an article be posted or any kind of notice be made? I only ask because, after sampling everything by this house now, I’ve come to love Parade, Cologne Francaise, and Rimbaud. I only bought 100ml bottles of the latter two, and have regretted not going for the 200ml since. I’d like to buy a 200ml bottle of each of the latter two (already have Parade in a 200ml), but also don’t feel like spending $860 on two fragrances I already have plenty of AT THIS MOMENT. If I heard they were being discontinued, I would pull the trigger and buy them, but if I don’t have to yet, why do it now?

Just curious. Based on the lack of reviews on Fragrantica, I’m guessing these are still not very popular.

 

[idkijustlikesmells]

Question for those in the know:

When fragrances from places like Celine are discontinued, are there any notices sent out? Like, will an article be posted or any kind of notice be made? I only ask because, after sampling everything by this house now, I’ve come to love Parade, Cologne Francaise, and Rimbaud. I only bought 100ml bottles of the latter two, and have regretted not going for the 200ml since. I’d like to buy a 200ml bottle of each of the latter two (already have Parade in a 200ml), but also don’t feel like spending $860 on two fragrances I already have plenty of AT THIS MOMENT. If I heard they were being discontinued, I would pull the trigger and buy them, but if I don’t have to yet, why do it now?

Just curious. Based on the lack of reviews on Fragrantica, I’m guessing these are still not very popular.

I like to think we have a while before any of these are discontinued since they are fairly new. Part of me doesn’t want these to blow up, but I understand it’s somewhat necessary for them to stick around.

Also, 100ml bottles, when you have multiple will likely last your forever. So I wouldn’t be too worried about running out.

 

[hednic]

Question for those in the know:

When fragrances from places like Celine are discontinued, are there any notices sent out? Like, will an article be posted or any kind of notice be made?

Just curious. Based on the lack of reviews on Fragrantica, I’m guessing these are still not very popular.

I wouldn't count on any notices of impending discontinuation being sent out. Not saying that it's impossible, but my guess is unlikely. As for their popularity, I wouldn't know how to gauge that, but they're popular with me and that's why I bought 100ml bottles of all the releases.

 

[cheapimitation]

Question for those in the know:

When fragrances from places like Celine are discontinued, are there any notices sent out? Like, will an article be posted or any kind of notice be made? I only ask because, after sampling everything by this house now, I’ve come to love Parade, Cologne Francaise, and Rimbaud. I only bought 100ml bottles of the latter two, and have regretted not going for the 200ml since. I’d like to buy a 200ml bottle of each of the latter two (already have Parade in a 200ml), but also don’t feel like spending $860 on two fragrances I already have plenty of AT THIS MOMENT. If I heard they were being discontinued, I would pull the trigger and buy them, but if I don’t have to yet, why do it now?

Just curious. Based on the lack of reviews on Fragrantica, I’m guessing these are still not very popular.

Yea unfortunately no. I really wish brands would do this, but usually they keep it quiet and just one day it's gone. Usually a rumor will start and slowly the stock will dry up and before you know it it's on eBay with a jacked up price.

I doubt any of the Celine will be discontinued anytime soon, but a good warning sign could be keep a lookout for change of brand director. As long as Hedi is in charge I have a feeling the whole collection will stay intact, I believe his concept from the beginning was of a cohesive complete collection, and he's usually pretty controlling about these things. If he leaves though, all bets are off!

 

[idkijustlikesmells]

I’m pretty late to this thread, but just wanted to chime in on how great these fragrances are. I’ve smelled hundreds and hundreds of fragrances and these are some of the few that I ever loved on first sniff and continued to love months later.

They feel modern and chic, yet still classic. Like a less stuffy, more understated, and easier to wear chanel exclusif.

I think many enthusiasts often overlook the wearability factor and get too bogged down into the finding the most “interesting” fragrances.

I think I could exclusively wear Eau de Californie, Cologne Franciase, and Bois Dormant for years and years and be satisfied.

 

[imm0rtelle]

I think many enthusiasts often overlook the wearability factor and get too bogged down into the finding the most “interesting” fragrances.

100% agree. They often judge fragrances in a vacuum and find it difficult to understand how fragrances are here to enhance someone's presentation in a the whole is greater than the sum of its parts kind of way. When someone wears a fragrance that matches them, something magical happens. This reminds me about what Hedi says about his own design philosophy:

For me, it's so much about the way people wear clothes, the way they behave, not so much about the clothes themselves. In France, it's called le porté.

The fragrance/clothing is incomplete without the wearer.

 

[idkijustlikesmells]

100% agree. They often judge fragrances in a vacuum and find it difficult to understand how fragrances are here to enhance someone's presentation in a the whole is greater than the sum of its parts kind of way. When someone wears a fragrance that matches them, something magical happens. This reminds me about what Hedi says about his own design philosophy:

The fragrance/clothing is incomplete without the wearer.

That’s a really fitting quote and probably why these resonated so much with me.

 

[imm0rtelle]

Nightclubbing review:

 

[imm0rtelle]

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What's interesting is that the formula code for Dans Paris in this late 2022 batch has been changed from its initial formula code released back in 2019.
2019 = 13944/A
2022 = 17060
I wonder how many other fragrances have had their formula codes changed (reformulated).

First batch formula codes:

 

[Vitamin D]

Uh oh 😕

 

[imm0rtelle]

Uh oh 😕

I did a little closer inspection and compared it with the ingredients they had to disclose for the original formula:

vs
late 2022 formula:

From what they have to disclose, it seems like mainly a removal of UV filters (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and ethylhexyl salicylate); removal of an antioxidant/preservative (bht); removal of a colourant (ext. violet 2); and addition of coumarin and citral. I wouldn't be surprised if there were more changes that they didn't have to disclose.

I am curious as to why they decided to reformulate Dans Paris. Makes me wonder if they know there will be upcoming changes to EU fragrance regulations or not. The only other reason, besides changes to fragrance regulations, would be to reformulate it to make it sell better. It takes a considerable amount of time, effort, and money to reformulate fragrances, so it wouldn't make sense to do it for no good reason. Since there is no news of Hedi leaving Celine, it is extremely likely that he has successfully renegotiated a new contract and is on board Celine for another few years, so the changes should still be an accurate reflection of his vision. I will need to see if I can smell the new formula next time I drop by a store.

 

[mcteague]

Oh no I hope they won't reformulate Black Tie! It's one of my absolute favourites. My 100ml bottle I bought in August 2022 still has the same formula code 13962/A. Maybe it's time to get a backup bottle 😄

 

[hednic]

Maybe it's time to get a backup bottle 😄

That might be a wise decision. That's why I bought the releases as soon as they all launched.

 

[Stinky_Pete]

I'm really tempted to order the Coffret Miniature set in order to figure out which ones are full bottle worthy, but it's definitely an investment. I'm torn between this and diving into Chanel Les Exclusifs.

How does the general performance of Celine fragrances compare to the Chanel Les Exclusifs?

 

[imm0rtelle]

How does the general performance of Celine fragrances compare to the Chanel Les Exclusifs?

I haven't smelled the Chanel fragrances seriously enough to really give an informed take, but here is a reviewer comparing Celine with Chanel:

I do largely echo the same feelings of how I feel like the Celine fragrances feel more modern, without being juvenile, and wearable. There is an effortlessness paired with this elegant chicness, and with just a smidge of edginess.

 

[hednic]

How does the general performance of Celine fragrances compare to the Chanel Les Exclusifs?

IMO very favorably.

 

[cheapimitation]

I'm really tempted to order the Coffret Miniature set in order to figure out which ones are full bottle worthy, but it's definitely an investment. I'm torn between this and diving into Chanel Les Exclusifs.

How does the general performance of Celine fragrances compare to the Chanel Les Exclusifs?

I would say they are similar in terms of performance. They wear differently but at a similar "volume" if that makes sense. Both are long lasting but fairly discreet and stay close to the skin. Celine overall feel airier/more transparent, while I find the base of many Chanel's to have a slightly denser and creamier floral texture. Of course there is variation throughout the line, but I'd say if you like the way Chanel Les Exlclusifs wear then you'll like how these wear too.

 

[Stinky_Pete]

Thank you for the thoughtful response @cheapimitation

 

[Stinky_Pete]

IMO very favorably.

Thank you Hednic!

 

[Stinky_Pete]

I haven't smelled the Chanel fragrances seriously enough to really give an informed take, but here is a reviewer comparing Celine with Chanel:

I do largely echo the same feelings of how I feel like the Celine fragrances feel more modern, without being juvenile, and wearable. There is an effortlessness paired with this elegant chicness, and with just a smidge of edginess.

Thank you @imm0rtelle

 

[mikeperez23]

I finally got to smell Nightclubbing Celine has a kiosk in my local mall. I liked it, I expected to.

The SA recommended I smell Reptile it was OK but didn't grab me.

I smelled both on scent strips not on skin. Next time I will.

 

[imm0rtelle]

Interesting behind-the-scenes of how Chandler Burr experienced the Celine fragrances:

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Perfume expert Chandler Burr flew from L.A. to Paris to try out the perfumes. "The project was so secret they set up a table in the far, far corner of an impossibly vast room in the Grand Palais," recalls Burr, who is working on two television shows linked to scent. "It felt illicit. We went through the samples one by one. Lab glass, no retail bottles or packaging, none of the visual stuff with which they always gild the lily. Three people smelling each work and talking. Two hours in an extraordinary museum."