new guerlains

notspendingamillion

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Sep 2, 2018
Pardon mispellings:

Iris tofeau
Cuir Beluga
NerIoli Outrenor
Spiriteuse Double Vanille
Rose Cherie
Angelique Noir
Embruns d'Ylang
Tonka Imperial
Epices Volees
Bois d'Aramie
Joyeuse Tuberose
Rose Barbare
Eau de lit
Eau Secrete
Santal Pao Rosa
 

d r e

Well-known member
Dec 24, 2018
Pardon mispellings:

Iris tofeau
Cuir Beluga
NerIoli Outrenor
Spiriteuse Double Vanille
Rose Cherie
Angelique Noir
Embruns d'Ylang
Tonka Imperial
Epices Volees
Bois d'Aramie
Joyeuse Tuberose
Rose Barbare
Eau de lit
Eau Secrete
Santal Pao Rosa

So are these are just old fragrances in new bottles?

I've been wanting to try Cuir Beluga but heard it was DCed, maybe I'll give it a go now
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
Many of the names you cite have been around for a while-so they're probably rebottling (with or without reformulation).
I don't own any. I liked Bois d'Armenie, a nice amber, but it's a bit simple. Probably the most talked about is Spiritueuse Double Vanille. Too harsh and strong for me, but many people love it.
 

Bassrazz

Member
Jul 14, 2009
Guerlain have, historically, not gone into re-formations. These high-end frags are so beloved that it would be financially detrimental if they were changed in any radical ways.


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notspendingamillion

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Sep 2, 2018
Yea, rebottling, branding. Supposedly some reforms, according to grapevine guerlain sales oeople, but who knows. Santal Pao Rosa was new, sounded interesting.
 

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
The front and sides of the bottle remind me of Hedi's Celine Haute Parfumerie line:

Celine-2.jpg


If they're smart, they're going to do what Hedi did and make the plastic tubing almost invisible through the juice.
 

deltasun

Well-known member
Jun 12, 2017
Mentioned these here.

Mostly rebottling of the Art of Materials line, with a few additions. They will be priced more per ml, of course.

That's why Cuir Beluga, etc. have disappeared - to make way for these new bottles. Hence, I recently picked up a few of the ones I like in the older bottles.
 

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Semi-Retirement
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
Going to have to purchase TI and SDV in these new 100ml bottles.

So are these are just old fragrances in new bottles?

I've been wanting to try Cuir Beluga but heard it was DCed, maybe I'll give it a go now

Cool.

I'd get Cuir Beluga.

Many of the names you cite have been around for a while-so they're probably rebottling (with or without reformulation).
I don't own any. I liked Bois d'Armenie, a nice amber, but it's a bit simple. Probably the most talked about is Spiritueuse Double Vanille. Too harsh and strong for me, but many people love it.
Bois d'Arménie, Tonka Imperiale, Spiritueuse Double Vanille, Cuir Beluga, Angelique Noire I'd be interested knowing how they fare in this new rebottling compared to the original release.
 

saminlondon

Well-known member
Aug 25, 2011
Guerlain have, historically, not gone into re-formations. These high-end frags are so beloved that it would be financially detrimental if they were changed in any radical ways.


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I think, unfortunately, that Guerlain reformulate as often as anyone else. Even the classics have changed significantly over the years.

That's not to say that new packaging automatically means new juice.
 

saminlondon

Well-known member
Aug 25, 2011
I'm really not sold on these bottles. They just look like any other 'exclusive' collection, whereas the original bottles at least stood out. Where's the character?

And don't get me started on the cynical price hike.
 

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
I'm really not sold on these bottles. They just look like any other 'exclusive' collection, whereas the original bottles at least stood out. Where's the character?

In order to sell them at their price, it has to look expensive to the consumers.

Bloc_video_iris_torrefie_mobile.jpg


I understand why they decided to change their bottles. Their original design just doesn't look that luxurious.

s-l1600.jpg


Look at how ugly the plastic tubing looks. Since they're also under LVMH, I would be shocked if they didn't follow Hedi's Celine Haute Parfumerie bottles and have the plastic tube more discreet.
 

strifeknot

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 28, 2008
Guerlain have, historically, not gone into re-formations. These high-end frags are so beloved that it would be financially detrimental if they were changed in any radical ways.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I wish this were the case, but these fragrances have all been reformulated at least once already. The changes are noticeable.
 

mrcologneguy

Well-known member
Jan 2, 2009
Glad to see so many of my favorites still in production, even if the packaging is changing. Cuir Beluga is straight from luxury scent heaven. Tonka Imperiale — love it to pieces, far more versatile and complex than you might suspect at first sniff. Spiritueuse Double Vanille is perfect for a cozy night at home. All three are excellent showcases for what Guerlain does best: sweet, vanilla/tonka/Guerlainade based scents
 

Vitamin D

Well-known member
Jan 8, 2021
In order to sell them at their price, it has to look expensive to the consumers.

Bloc_video_iris_torrefie_mobile.jpg


I understand why they decided to change their bottles. Their original design just doesn't look that luxurious.

s-l1600.jpg


Look at how ugly the plastic tubing looks. Since they're also under LVMH, I would be shocked if they didn't follow Hedi's Celine Haute Parfumerie bottles and have the plastic tube more discreet.

What is it specifically about Celine’s plastic tubing that makes it so discreet? Different kind of plastic?
 

deltasun

Well-known member
Jun 12, 2017
What is it specifically about Celine’s plastic tubing that makes it so discreet? Different kind of plastic?

There are a few other brands that have done this. I'm drawing a blank on the others, but I know Louis Vuitton tubes do the same thing. It's all about refractive indexing and matching the tube material's refractive index to the liquid's. I think in the Amouage thread, Renaud mentioned he wants to do the same with his tubes.
 

cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015
I walked by the Guerlain counter at Saks today, they have testers and said they will be out next week!

I tried Santal Pao Rosa on skin and it is very nice. I didn't particularly get sandalwood or rose but maybe my nose was broken today. It was a nice spicy woody amber fragrance without feeling heavy.

He also gave me samples of Neroli Outrenoir and "Epice Volees" which apparently is Arsene Lupin reincarnated (I forgot which one, I think Voyou?).

After trying a few my overall impression is similar to how I always felt about Art and Materials, which is they are very nice but none of them excite me enough to want to pay a lot of money. However, I also get the impression that they are quite nuanced and the kind of thing you could totally fall in love with more exposure. They have that really smooth sense of French refinement, nothing shouty or harsh while still maintaining a depth and complexity.

I signed up to get notified about the release event next week and I"ll definitely go if I can!

Oh, and the bottles are really beautiful in person. He had the 200ml for testers and they are some hefty looking things.
 

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
What is it specifically about Celine’s plastic tubing that makes it so discreet? Different kind of plastic?

I'm not exactly sure how Hedi managed it, logic tells me they're using a thinner plastic that has more "transparency" so light bouncing on it doesn't reflect the material as obviously. When people turn on their flash and photograph the Celine bottles, you can see the stem more clearly than when viewed in natural lighting. Celine and Guerlain are both under LVMH, so I would be shocked if Guerlain didn't take advantage of this new innovation Hedi implemented. I'm half surprised, and not surprised, that nobody really cares about the presentation to that level of detail prior to Hedi.

Oh, and the bottles are really beautiful in person. He had the 200ml for testers and they are some hefty looking things.

Is the plastic tubing barely visible through the liquid like how Hedi designed the Celine Haute Parfumerie bottles to be?
 

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
I found a photo of a bottle and as expected, they made the plastic tube practically invisible through the liquid:

nDj82C_7kprRx0UM.jpg


4a_7eef86d11c3927c805c9ee76781a9450031cb24f_1200.jpg


I was browsing through the website and wow they are really making the bottles highly customizable. They're really making sure these look beautiful for the modern luxury consumer who buys fragrances for their bottles as well.

AM_PUSH-PERSO-PRODUCT_LANDING-PAGE_DESKTOP-(1).jpg


CoverAM-ExceptionalPieces%20(1).jpg
 
Last edited:

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021

Can't tell if lighting for the video is playing a factor but depending on the angle, the tube is easier to see than others.

 

GoldWineMemories

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2019
The bottles look fine. The only downside other than the price increase is now you're going to inevitably have people claiming mass reformulations, that the older was indescribably better, and the new stuff is watered down crap. Hopefully with the new bottles we'll get something new from Guerlain that recalls what made the house Guerlain.
 

saminlondon

Well-known member
Aug 25, 2011
The bottles look fine. The only downside other than the price increase is now you're going to inevitably have people claiming mass reformulations, that the older was indescribably better, and the new stuff is watered down crap. Hopefully with the new bottles we'll get something new from Guerlain that recalls what made the house Guerlain.

I saw the bottles yesterday, and I have to say that they look better in person than they do in photos. They have a pleasing heft to them, at least.

As for reformulation, it does seem that the formula codes have changed for a good number of the perfumes. Whether this is restricted to colourants, filters, etc. or involves the olfactive materials themselves we're probably never going to know.
 

cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015
I didn't notice, I just saw the drawer full of the large size for testers and he pulled one out to spray for me. I know Hedi is a stickler for details, but not everything relates back to Hedi Slimane and Celine. I just took a look and noticed the tube is invisible on quite a few bottles I have, like Chanel No. 19 and Hermessence. I wonder if it's done through coloring, with No. 19 the green tint probably helps to hide the tube.


Is the plastic tubing barely visible through the liquid like how Hedi designed the Celine Haute Parfumerie bottles to be?


I do wonder if they will keep distribution tight to boutiques, especially with customization and refills seems like something that could be boutique only. I also noticed Guerlain stock drying up on the discounters lately, but this might just be due to the pandemic and/or lack of stock because they stopped production on the older versions in anticipation of the release of the new ones. I feel like I've taken for granted the fact that most Guerlain's I'm interested in can be found for $40-60. But I also know this isn't exactly sustainable for the business, so if I want these perfumes to still be available, probably going to have to pay more at some point.

Guerlain reformulating in favor of their "safe" proprietary ingredients shouldn't surprise anyone.

The real question should be how they're going to be released.

As Guerlain boutique exclusives?

To retailers (and eventually the grey market)?
 

cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015
Update on a full wearing on the sample of Neroli Outrenoir they gave me.

I wore it last night and while I love the opening I wasn't thrilled with the drydown, it smells a bit familiar and generic. This morning I woke up smelling some sweet ambroxan radiating and thought wtf did I wear last night! I only tested this fragrance once before at a store and probably washed it off before I got the the base, so maybe it has always been like this. But I was surprised that 12 hours later it smells like I had sprayed something from MFK.
 

imm0rtelle

Well-known member
Apr 2, 2021
I didn't notice, I just saw the drawer full of the large size for testers and he pulled one out to spray for me. I know Hedi is a stickler for details, but not everything relates back to Hedi Slimane and Celine. I just took a look and noticed the tube is invisible on quite a few bottles I have, like Chanel No. 19 and Hermessence. I wonder if it's done through coloring, with No. 19 the green tint probably helps to hide the tube.

I don't have those bottles to compare myself, but just from looking at pictures online the plastic tube doesn't even look close to invisible. The Celine ones are the closest to approaching invisible that I have seen.

IMG_1907_1024x1024@2x.jpg


Hermes-Poivre-Samarcande.jpg


url


D_NQ_NP_2X_774138-MLB27320204286_052018-F.jpg


D_NQ_NP_2X_709532-MLB27320195879_052018-F.jpg


vs

22079ebc8cdb3b8a287acd759c669c07


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It is a night and day difference. This treatment is pretty consistent for the entire range, and isn't just due to a darker colour of the juice of some fragrances from the line.

For reference, this is a fake bottle of Nightclubbing. This level of transparency of the plastic tubing is "normal" and comparable to other brands on the market. It does't reach the level of the transparency of the actual Celine bottles:

2c2a862f6f96c8527cecbb58f3050833


While I empathize with your more skeptical outlook in thinking that it wasn't Hedi who was the first person to bring this to LVMH's fragrances, I haven't noticed any other LVMH brands with the plastic tubing like this, let alone any brand outside LVMH. The SAs have a script that they, without fail, will let you know how the plastic tube in the Celine bottles are designed to be practically invisible through the juice.


Hedi has always had a preference of hiding the plastic tubing, starting with his first colognes for Dior. The atomizer attachment was detachable.

img_0693.jpg


550b2ff57c6d833a07b95578


christian-dior-cologne-blanche.jpg


The atomizer and the stopper were both screw tops. Only one can be attached at any one time. This was before the Dior exclusive fragrances moved towards the magnetic cap.

Dior Homme had that innovative metal shaft to hide the plastic tube. Seeing a pattern?

Dior_Homme_vintage_silver_stem_1000.jpg


1072291477620269.jpg


I thought the metal shaft was just okay. All you had to do is pay a little attention and you will see the plastic tube sticking out of the metal shaft. That said, I doubt most normal people care about this level of detail. Most just ignore the bottles and care more about the juice. This type of thing only matters to people who care about details that normal people overlook. Most people are wow'd enough by things like magnetic caps, and I don't blame them.
 

Ken_Russell

Well-known member
Jan 21, 2006
Thank you for the news and glad to know, although never having managed to so far test any of these yet.

Nevertheless, based on the bottle design, the names and note descriptions of most if not even each so far, willing and eager to test as much as possible from this range.
 

deltasun

Well-known member
Jun 12, 2017
...

He also gave me samples of Neroli Outrenoir and "Epice Volees" which apparently is Arsene Lupin reincarnated (I forgot which one, I think Voyou?).
...


Looks like Epice Volees is Arsene Lupin Voyou, which has actually grown on me while it's gone out of production. Might have to pick that one up in the new bottle, though that price is a big door stopper. Actually, it appears it's even higher than when I converted it before. It looks like it's actually $360/$460 for a 100/200 ml here in the US. :eek:
 

cheapimitation

Well-known member
May 15, 2015
Oof that is steep, and I was never excited enough about any of them when I had the chance to buy then for 150-200. Only huge regret I have is half a year ago Derby was showing available on quite a few online retailers like Bloomingdales and Neiman, I was tempted to buy but had never smelled it and figured I could wait. Then I guess the news broke about the discontinuation and seems like overnight it was nowhere to be found except ebay resellers for exorbitant prices.

I have a feeling it will come back, but I doubt I'll be willing to pay that much for an old school masculine. At the moment, if I'm going to spend 300ish on something, it is going toward a 200ml Chanel, or maybe a Gucci. As much as I knock LV, I'd probably rather spend it on Nuit de Feu as well.

Looks like Epice Volees is Arsene Lupin Voyou, which has actually grown on me while it's gone out of production. Might have to pick that one up in the new bottle, though that price is a big door stopper. Actually, it appears it's even higher than when I converted it before. It looks like it's actually $360/$460 for a 100/200 ml here in the US. :eek:
 

ultravisitor

Well-known member
Nov 4, 2014
I didn't notice, I just saw the drawer full of the large size for testers and he pulled one out to spray for me. I know Hedi is a stickler for details, but not everything relates back to Hedi Slimane and Celine.

Yes, but some people will take any possible opportunity to make everything ultimately about Hedi Slimane.

I mean, as someone else already pointed out, the Louis Vuitton bottles have similarly "invisible" tubing inside them, and those were on the market for years before the Celines, so the tubing is clearly not a new innovation that can be credited to Hedi Slimane. Many people have expressed concern when seeing the Louis Vuitton bottles that they didn't appear to have sprayers because the tubing inside them is so invisible.
 

deltasun

Well-known member
Jun 12, 2017
Oof that is steep, and I was never excited enough about any of them when I had the chance to buy then for 150-200. Only huge regret I have is half a year ago Derby was showing available on quite a few online retailers like Bloomingdales and Neiman, I was tempted to buy but had never smelled it and figured I could wait. Then I guess the news broke about the discontinuation and seems like overnight it was nowhere to be found except ebay resellers for exorbitant prices.

I have a feeling it will come back, but I doubt I'll be willing to pay that much for an old school masculine. At the moment, if I'm going to spend 300ish on something, it is going toward a 200ml Chanel, or maybe a Gucci. As much as I knock LV, I'd probably rather spend it on Nuit de Feu as well.

Unfortunately, I'm hearing that Derby may not be making an appearance in the new line. I hope I'm wrong, but appears to be just Voyou and Le Frenchy from the Les Parisiens line (with new names, of course). I did the same with Voyou, so it'll be one of those where I pick it up if the price/timing is right. I've lived with only my sample for so long that I obviously placed a lot of other fragrances ahead of it.


Yes, but some people will take any possible opportunity to make everything ultimately about Hedi Slimane.

...

Haha, that and getting slammed with a wall of images each time.
 

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