NEW: Guerlain Mitsouko 17

GoldWineMemories

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2019

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Guerlain's new take on Mitsouko. Looks to replace peach with apricot, adds pink pepper, and perhaps the floral element is amped up. 17 comes from the number the artist has tattooed on her fingers -- so inspiring Guerlain I'm glad this is the level of sophisticated artistic creativity you allow to flourish. I do like the new updated tassel & sticker on the bottle. I for one love Mitsouko as one of the few complete art pieces of perfumery, even though I don't currently wear it. I don't think Mitsouko is so sacred it can't be toyed around with, and at the same type how do you update the Queen Chypre? I probably will never find out since they'll make these bottles so exclusive, but I look forward to hearing from others.
 

hednic

Well-known member
Oct 25, 2007
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
I am befuddled by this Guerlain press release, but it wouldn't be the first time. Does $14,000 get you the black scupture/floral arrangement AND a bottle of the remastered Mitsouko? It does seem to be the whole kit and caboodle because another source says "The case contains a black mirror that serves as a support, allowing the piece to be displayed at home." (https://ifragranceofficial.com/guerlain-mitsouko-absolu-17/?utm_source=rss&utm_)

But getting back to perfume, did anyone think that Mitsouko needed "pink pepper" instead of bergamot? Apricot instead of peach?

Whatever. If selling 8 of these tchotchkes means that Guerlain can still put some bergamot in the regular Mitsouko, then it's fine with me.
 

GoldWineMemories

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2019
I am befuddled by this Guerlain press release, but it wouldn't be the first time. Does $14,000 get you the black scupture/floral arrangement AND a bottle of the remastered Mitsouko? It does seem to be the whole kit and caboodle because another source says "The case contains a black mirror that serves as a support, allowing the piece to be displayed at home." (https://ifragranceofficial.com/guerlain-mitsouko-absolu-17/?utm_source=rss&utm_)

But getting back to perfume, did anyone think that Mitsouko needed "pink pepper" instead of bergamot? Apricot instead of peach?

Whatever. If selling 8 of these tchotchkes means that Guerlain can still put some bergamot in the regular Mitsouko, then it's fine with me.
You get 425ml with the sculpture, so I don't think you get the 30ml Mitsouko 2 er, 17. I really want to sniff this, but they'll have no testers I'm sure. The thing about pink pepper is I associate it always with modern masculines such as Sauvage, so I'm not so sure what it does to a femme composition. I'm curious if it will even have a chypre dry-down.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Pink pepper seems to have been added to all the reformulations and flankers I'm seeing. Why??? Just seeing that note in a writeup is starting to nauseate me. It's bad enough to find it front and center in the new Habanita, but Mitsouko, that masterpiece of art (and peach changed to apricot)? No thanks.
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
@Bonnette
Yes, it seems that pink pepper is definitely “in.” For the longest time, I was convinced that pink pepper was a euphemism for some woody aromachemical, but when I looked it up to try to figure out why anyone would substitute it for bergamot, I learned that it is actually a real thing, and its presence in a perfume could come from the use of a natural essential oil, derived from the dried berries of the Schinus molle evergreen tree. It is a sharp spicy topnote with rose overtones. It’s a modern ingredient, so I don’t own many perfumes that contain it. It’s found in Paestum Rose and Agent Provocateur L’Agent, and I’ve never appreciated the pepperiness of the rose accord in those two.

I’m now curious to see if I can smell the pink pepper in perfumes that I enjoy such as Ostara and La Môme. I may order some of the oil from Eden Botanicals just for kicks. But I still don’t think pink pepper belongs in Mitsouko!
.
 

FiveoaksBouquet

Scented.
Basenotes Plus
Jul 16, 2004
@Bonnette
Yes, it seems that pink pepper is definitely “in.” For the longest time, I was convinced that pink pepper was a euphemism for some woody aromachemical, but when I looked it up to try to figure out why anyone would substitute it for bergamot, I learned that it is actually a real thing, and its presence in a perfume could come from the use of a natural essential oil, derived from the dried berries of the Schinus molle evergreen tree. It is a sharp spicy topnote with rose overtones. It’s a modern ingredient, so I don’t own many perfumes that contain it. It’s found in Paestum Rose and Agent Provocateur L’Agent, and I’ve never appreciated the pepperiness of the rose accord in those two.

I’m now curious to see if I can smell the pink pepper in perfumes that I enjoy such as Ostara and La Môme. I may order some of the oil from Eden Botanicals just for kicks. But I still don’t think pink pepper belongs in Mitsouko!
.

Grayspoole, if you want to explore the note, two relatively easily accessible perfumes with pronounced pink pepper are Chanel Chance and Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme. I like the note but have to be in the mood for it.
 

Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
@Bonnette
For the longest time, I was convinced that pink pepper was a euphemism for some woody aromachemical,

I thought so too, until this very minute!

but when I looked it up to try to figure out why anyone would substitute it for bergamot, I learned that it is actually a real thing, and its presence in a perfume could come from the use of a natural essential oil, derived from the dried berries of the Schinus molle evergreen tree. It is a sharp spicy topnote with rose overtones.

I think one place to isolate this smell is in the original Bottega Veneta EdP, which is a great favorite of mine. Its opening is the one place I can distinctly make out the note.
But I still don’t think pink pepper belongs in Mitsouko!
.

Hear, hear!
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
Grayspoole, if you want to explore the note, two relatively easily accessible perfumes with pronounced pink pepper are Chanel Chance and Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme. I like the note but have to be in the mood for it.
Thanks FiveoaksBouquet, I'll try to get a sniff of these.

I think one place to isolate this smell is in the original Bottega Veneta EdP, which is a great favorite of mine. Its opening is the one place I can distinctly make out the note.

Aha! I still one of the sample atomizers you sent me, Cook.bot, so I am now wearing Bottega Veneta. Okay, it's pinkly peppery, and it's quite nice.

The idea of rosy pepper reminded me of Perles de Lalique, which I used to enjoy but don't wear anymore. Its published notes say "Bourbon pepper" but I think the effect is similar. I think quite a few current feminine perfumes have a similar opening, no? I see the Body Shop and L'Occitane have pink pepper scents and there is a version of Twilly that features pink pepper as well. Is it all "pink pepper"? Who knows?

Bonnette, I'm not weeping yet, since Mitsouko is still available in something close to its original form, unlike Joy, but I guess I am sad that perfumers are driven by "market forces" to make even a great classic scent smell more mainstream and generic...and pink!
 

Schubertian

Active member
Apr 8, 2021
Mmh. Okay. This doesn't make much sense to me in terms of the notes. They've basically made a Misouko that isn't Mitsouko? If only they had made a differently balanced version of current Mitsouko (like, I'm thinking, with more oakmoss and citrus and just a tad less peach)... then I would be interested.
Having said that, as long as they continue to make the current Mitsouko, which I love very much, without ruining it, I don't really care what flankers or pr stunts they come up with. Perhaps raspberry Mitsouko next?
But also, this very exclusive obscenely-expensive luxury feels so last season somehow. So boring....
 

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