New Frederic Malle - rumored to be a lily of the valley fragrance

mikeperez23

Be Here. Now.
Basenotes Plus
Dec 31, 2006
Did anyone read the post on Perfume Shrine about this?

'...Their new super secretive launch according to info I leaned is concerning a popular spring fragrance, the lily of the valley or muguet, currently developed under a code-name...

...Now that Diorissimo is almost ruined due to libertarian (and industry-compliant necessary we learn) reformulations and the most convincing lily of the valley substitute ingredient, hydroxycitronellal, is heavily restricted (lily of the valley can't be effectively extracted, read our article for more substitute lily of the valley/muguet aromachemicals), the challenge is great and fascinating to watch unfold. The new F.Malle fragrance with lily of the valley will roll in stores in March 2012. Will Mugghetone (the name will change) convince us on the existence of gods?

May we remind you that there is a lily of the valley fragrance in Les Fleurs du Malle home collection, 1er Mai (May 1st when lily of the valley posies are traditionally offered in France in celebration of the day) composed by Dominique Ropion...'


I love Diorissimo, the vintage extrait has a nice bite to it. Interested to see what perfumer will be creating this one and what direction it will be taking.
 
Last edited:

Sugandaraja

Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Aug 28, 2007
An exciting prospect. Also, it seems green florals are making a come-back... I'm thinking of Tauer, DSH, some others.
 

philmcphe

Super Member
May 7, 2010
Damn Malle is easily one of my favorite lines, so I'm always thrilled about a new one, but Lily is like the one note in fragrances I really can't stand for some reason, makes me feel nauseous.
 

mr. reasonable

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 1, 2009
After Une Fleur de Cassie & Carnal Flower anything could happen. Malle and Ropion are just about untouchable when it comes to taking on florals in an unapologetic classical manner. It is exciting news, hope the rumour / insider tip is on the money.
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
Thanks for the note. I love vintage Diorissimo parfum too, and there's nothing remotely close to it - perhaps the restrictions are really unsurmountable. But who knows, we shall smell, although my hopes aren't high, even with the Malle name on it.

cacio
 

mikeperez23

Be Here. Now.
Basenotes Plus
Dec 31, 2006
Damn Malle is easily one of my favorite lines, so I'm always thrilled about a new one, but Lily is like the one note in fragrances I really can't stand for some reason, makes me feel nauseous.

This new one is lily-of-the-valley, not lily. Different smell.

I, too, do not like lily (well except for Anais Anais) but lily-of-the-valley I do like.
 

Mimi Gardenia

Basenotes Institution
Aug 15, 2008
Looking forward to this one...... though, Mr. Malle - please can I have a gardenia scent ????? ! Pleassssseee!
 

alfarom

Power Where You Need It
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2011
I'm very curious to smell Mugghetone (in italian it sounds really funny...why they want to change it?). Lilly of the valley is usually a hit-or-miss for me. The only two muguet prominent fragrances that I LOVED so far are vintage Diorissimo and Carrillon Pour Un Ange.
 

philmcphe

Super Member
May 7, 2010
This new one is lily-of-the-valley, not lily. Different smell.

I, too, do not like lily (well except for Anais Anais) but lily-of-the-valley I do like.

Oh really? I did not realize there was such a difference. So this shouldn't smell like Lys Mediterranee? (which ironically is exactly the kind of lily I can't stand)
 

mikeperez23

Be Here. Now.
Basenotes Plus
Dec 31, 2006
Oh really? I did not realize there was such a difference. So this shouldn't smell like Lys Mediterranee? (which ironically is exactly the kind of lily I can't stand)

No.

You can read a great article on the differences between lily and lily-of-the-valley on Perfume Shrine here:http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2009/05/distant-cousins-lily-of-valley-lilypart.html

I'd love to smell a real lily-of-the-valley overdose, like Geranium Pour Monsieur but with lily-of-the-valley. The only other tenacious muguet scent I've ever encountered is vintage Muguet de Bois by Coty which is much different than the current juice.
 

Trebor

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 8, 2006
Oh really? I did not realize there was such a difference. So this shouldn't smell like Lys Mediterranee? (which ironically is exactly the kind of lily I can't stand)
Let's not forget that Lys Méditerranée consists of three different species of lily: ginger lily, lily of the valley and water lily. So, it would only be natural to see how this new release compares to Lys Méditerranée.
 

Mimi Gardenia

Basenotes Institution
Aug 15, 2008
As this is now April and the launch was said to be March....... I guess there really won't be a lily if a valley scent by Frederic Malle ?
 

frug

Basenotes Dependent
Dec 17, 2008
The current Diorissimo is still a striking and very persuasive LOTV to my nose, with a lovely subtext of breezy lilac. It remains, for me, the muguet standard bearer. I would love for Malle, or anyone else, to challenge Diorissimo’s preeminence in the accord, but I’m not losing any sleep over it...
 
Last edited:

mr. reasonable

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 1, 2009
I talked to him last night and he did say that there will be a release around Spring that he has been working on with Ropion and without going into details he said it would probably do quite well 'here' (being Hong Kong), which I take to mean a lighter scent, so there ya go. He tends to play it pretty close to the chest.

He also mentioned his marketing people were sort of pushing to have it for Christmas but he said he and Ropion weren't happy with it yet and laughed - definitely a a page out of the Douglas Adams book re. 'deadlines'. He's a funny guy - sounds like he and D. Ropion have a couple of others 'on the go' which is very good news.

Also finally got one of the black travel atomiser containers as a goodie bag gift - been wanting one for years!
 

hobbes22

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 17, 2011
He's a funny guy - sounds like he and D. Ropion have a couple of others 'on the go' which is very good news.

Also finally got one of the black travel atomiser containers as a goodie bag gift - been wanting one for years!

That is excellent news. Ropion is one of my favorite living perfumers, if not my favorite. Good to hear there are perhaps a couple more Ropion/Frederic Malle scents in store for us!

Also, what travel atomizer are you referring to, do you have any pics? The only ones I see online are Pierre Hardy atomizers on the FM website... for $285...
 

mr. reasonable

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 1, 2009
Here's some pics from the evening, hobbes22.

IMG_4546.jpg


It's a pretty hefty solid screw top metal tube and comes in a heavy black suede envelope. I believe there is also a silver one in the line. These were around a while before the new ones from Pierre Hardy.

IMG_4567.jpg



IMG_4572.jpg


The recent 'mini collection samplers' were also on display. It wasn't a new product launch per se, just a drop in to say 'hallo' cocktail party at the new Joyce Beauty Boutique in Pacific Place. It was great chatting with him again, we met a couple of years ago when he launched the Candle Collection. He mentioned two potential releases and one that's 'on the shelf' for now that he and Ropion may come back to - very encouraging news, indeed!

IMG_4550.jpg
 

kalli

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 29, 2011
Oooh, I want a sampler! Thanks for the pics!

M. Malle, please no gardenia scents! Please! Lol. Do a jasmine one, much better!:) Oh and an amber, I want an amber! It's fall/winter, time for an amber!
 

Plaisir

Super Member
Sep 7, 2012
Oooh, I want a sampler! Thanks for the pics!

M. Malle, please no gardenia scents! Please! Lol. Do a jasmine one, much better!:) Oh and an amber, I want an amber! It's fall/winter, time for an amber!

A jasmine scent would be great! I won't get my hopes up though, whether for a gardenia or a jasmine scent.
 

hobbes22

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 17, 2011
mr. reasonable, thanks for the pics! I'm jealous, that atomizer looks terrific. Very simple and beautiful.

I'm very curious what F. Malle has in store next. I guess we'll have to wait and see...
 

hedonist222

Basenotes Institution
Sep 13, 2010
Very nice mr.reasonable.

Did you get a chance to ask him if he plans on reformulating anything?

Thats not an adverse scenario from a vendor point of view. It means a sudden influx of cash from customers stocking up on the original formulation.
 

mr. reasonable

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 1, 2009
Hi hedonist :)

No but I did also speak with Valerio Polimento, who looks after European distribution from EDP Paris office and he mentioned that with the candles they were not happy with a couple and 'reformulated' - I think this was more with regard to the wax / burn quality. He did mention they had reformulated one perfume to improve it . . . don't remember which one but I'll buy that because (a) he didn't strike me as a bullshitter and (b) I do recall them upping the concentrations of some several years ago.

Malle obviously had to conform with IFRA (we had this discussion a couple of years ago) but given the way he works to his own schedule I imagine any changes would only be due to improving things or being stuck with difficulty in sourcing ingredients. I bought a new L'Eau d'Hiver recently - worried about restrictions on heliotrope - and didn't notice any difference from my 2009 bottle. I'm sleeping pretty easy :)
 

Larimar

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 23, 2010
Reformulation has happened. I had a new (small) bottle of Une Fleur de Cassie and am now in an old (big) bottle of it. I immediately detected it (the older is dirtier, more animalic and less clean in the base, also because the cassie seems to last longer into the base) and also found a reference online. Some people say Carnal Flower has been reformulated, but I can't comment on this.
 

hedonist222

Basenotes Institution
Sep 13, 2010
Hi hedonist :)

No but I did also speak with Valerio Polimento, who looks after European distribution from EDP Paris office and he mentioned that with the candles they were not happy with a couple and 'reformulated' - I think this was more with regard to the wax / burn quality. He did mention they had reformulated one perfume to improve it . . . don't remember which one but I'll buy that because (a) he didn't strike me as a bullshitter and (b) I do recall them upping the concentrations of some several years ago.

Malle obviously had to conform with IFRA (we had this discussion a couple of years ago) but given the way he works to his own schedule I imagine any changes would only be due to improving things or being stuck with difficulty in sourcing ingredients. I bought a new L'Eau d'Hiver recently - worried about restrictions on heliotrope - and didn't notice any difference from my 2009 bottle. I'm sleeping pretty easy :)

Well thats a good thing then.

Reformulation has happened. I had a new (small) bottle of Une Fleur de Cassie and am now in an old (big) bottle of it. I immediately detected it (the older is dirtier, more animalic and less clean in the base, also because the cassie seems to last longer into the base) and also found a reference online. Some people say Carnal Flower has been reformulated, but I can't comment on this.

Larimar is correct in that sense too.
I recently picked up a bottle of Vetiver Extraordinaire and I find it different to my bottle which I bought in April of 2011.
The older bottle was rootier.

I wanted to do a closer side by side and a proper wearing before saying anything.

Regarding CF. My wife also bought a bottle in April of 2012 and has almost finished it and also got one in August 2012. So she'd be able to tell if it was reformulated. She loves it.
 

Latest News

Whatever your taste in perfume, we've got you covered...

catalogue your collection, keep track of your perfume wish-list, log your daily fragrance wears, review your latest finds, seek out long-lost scented loves, keep track of the latest perfume news, find your new favourite fragrance, and discuss perfume with like-minded people from all over the world...

Top