New Frédéric Malle Release - Eau de Magnolia

Redneck Perfumisto

League of Cycloöctadiene Isomer Aestheticists
Basenotes Plus
Feb 27, 2008

andreas2x

Well-known member
Oct 4, 2010
It's out now =) ....on the website you can add it but only on the france and international site. It still unavailable on the US website. Hopefully soon
 

BRM85282

Well-known member
Mar 27, 2013
Might blind buy it. I wonder if it will be at Barney's on June 2 as well. I haven't heard anything about it. I actually have that day off and might swing by if I get a chance.


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DreamerII

Well-known member
Aug 29, 2005
Have not smelled it yet. In fragrantica there is a review which compares Eau de Magnolia to Chanel Cristalle edt.
Chanel Cristalle edt (not edp), Diorella are one of the best colognes I know.
 

JON RODGERS

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
This is sounding really promising
fingers%20crossed.gif
 

iodine

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2010
Tested it this afternoon at 10 corsocomo in Milan: sparkling, transparent, rather lightweight, with the eponymous note appearing in all its beauty at a certain point but fading rather quickly in a mossy drydown. It's not love at first sight for me, but I'll try it on again. :smiley:
 

mikeperez23

Be Here. Now.
Basenotes Plus
Dec 31, 2006
Graindemusc reviewed it positively here: http://graindemusc.blogspot.com/2014/06/eau-de-magnolia-by-carlos-benaim-for.html

...And indeed, for all its freshness, Eau de Magnolia does also convey steaminess – honeyed dew evaporating from petals in the morning sun. The moistness, very much a part of the scent of magnolia, is expressed by a faintly aqueous fruitiness (which shouldn’t send calone-phobes screaming for their mothers).

Despite their differences, Eau de Magnolia shares some of La Panthère’s qualities: great volume and long-lastingness, a silky yet translucent sillage, and that haziness that marks them as contemporary iterations rather than tribute-band versions of classics...
 

DreamerII

Well-known member
Aug 29, 2005
To say the truth - I was disappointed.some women could wear it, not men.there should be some secret, however from the first wearing and smelling on the card I smell some sweet honeyed flowers with a very vague reminiscence to cristalle (more EDp than edt).i used to dislike dans tes bras, portrait of a lady.now I love them and find them unique.with magnolia I doubt I would change my mind - too simplistic,even reminiscent to mainstream scents. for some women who like sticky florals,it could work well.eau de magnolia does not overcome cristalle or diorella.Too simplistic
 
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Kake718

Well-known member
Aug 26, 2012
Love at first sniff, takes the Cologne accord in a different direction, headspace magnolia is gorgeous surrounded by woody, mossy notes, just like Jurassic Flower (happens to be my fave in the flour mechanique). reminiscent of Carnal Flower, but more wearable, not as loud, but the floral note is very realistic. The vetiver throughout makes this very unisex, might even lean masculine, I bought a large bottle. My summer go-to. The longevity and silage is awesome for an FM, it lasts all day.
 
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cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
I was at Barney's today and sprayed this. I am sadly not too familiar with the real magnolia scent, and my muguets are more from Diorissimo than from the garden, but the perfume actually reminded me a lot of a rich muguet. Does magnolia and muguet share unexpected similarities? Or did Roudnitska, in creating Diorissimo, err on the side of magnolia, to avoid falling into the usual functional muguet trap? Who knows. In any case, the same whiteness, the same citrusy facets, a certain cleanliness that however doesn't become functional. It has a certain sweetness and honeyness, but just enough to balance the white flower cleanliness. Very good so much so that I'd suggest it for those who miss vintage Diorissimo (the current Diorissimos being either too sharp or too dull) -not that it's close, but one does what one can. Vintage Diorissimo, especially in parfum, is much better, with the civet and the rest.

Longevity was ok on me.It feels very light and transparent (almost like an Ellena), but it is there. I applaud the proposal of a muguet for the boys, and I think it will actually smell more interesting on them. Not sure it's a to buy yet (I have some Diorissimo), but I'll be definitely thinking about it.

cacio
 

gandhajala

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2010
<snippety>Does magnolia and muguet share unexpected similarities? </snip>

I think, so. Some varieties of magnolia at least, head in that direction.
In an earlier post to this thread (April) I mentioned the Saucer Magnolias that were then out in bloom here as having a citrus/lily-ish/spicy scent.
Doing some research, here's what Poucher has to say of magnolia's scent:

"...the fragrance resembles that of a ylang-lily complex, with a shading of clove and a top note of lemon" (Poucher, Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps, Vol.2, p.133).
He further noted that a magnolia-like compound could be made most easily by the modification of an already created muguet.
 

iodine

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2010
Interesting association, cacio and interesting infos gandhajala .
I'm now at my third full wear of EdM (from the tester at corsocomo in Milan) and about to buy a FB.
I don't see much a resemblance with muguets, while I definitely find most of the nuances of the natural magnolia grandiflora flowers: the citrussy, the creamy, the waxy facets. I smelled often natural muguets and while they certainly share some odorants with magnolias, their smell is IMO more shady, more humid and fresh, while magnolias grandifloras' is somewhat sunnier and more airy, though it certainly has a subtle aquatic, marine shade.
The aspect I love most of EdM is its mossy. rooty drydown, anyway.
 

cazaubon

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jan 1, 2005
Only a small tester bottle at Holt Renfrew here in Montréal, but the SA let me have a spritz. It was a lemony floral cologne with a white musk- smelling background... Did not find it too original or compelling, but will test it again when I can really douse myself with it.
 

iodine

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2010
I was at Barney's today and sprayed this. I am sadly not too familiar with the real magnolia scent, and my muguets are more from Diorissimo than from the garden, but the perfume actually reminded me a lot of a rich muguet. Does magnolia and muguet share unexpected similarities? Or did Roudnitska, in creating Diorissimo, err on the side of magnolia, to avoid falling into the usual functional muguet trap? Who knows. In any case, the same whiteness, the same citrusy facets, a certain cleanliness that however doesn't become functional. It has a certain sweetness and honeyness, but just enough to balance the white flower cleanliness. Very good so much so that I'd suggest it for those who miss vintage Diorissimo (the current Diorissimos being either too sharp or too dull) -not that it's close, but one does what one can. Vintage Diorissimo, especially in parfum, is much better, with the civet and the rest.

Longevity was ok on me.It feels very light and transparent (almost like an Ellena), but it is there. I applaud the proposal of a muguet for the boys, and I think it will actually smell more interesting on them. Not sure it's a to buy yet (I have some Diorissimo), but I'll be definitely thinking about it.

cacio

Cacio, you're right! I'm wearing a kimono that's been in contact with EdM and it's giving off a delicious muguet- like smell...

I'm reading that molecules that smell of lily of the valley are among the most widely used in perfumery, so why not here!
 
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Mocha

Well-known member
Jan 1, 2014
I would really like to try this. I'm just afraid if I walk into Barneys I'll walk out with something. :)
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
I must be in Barney's mail list because I received the msg below. Malle will be at Barney's NYC tomorrow (wed), so interested NYers can check it.

cacio

I would like to take this opportunity to invite you to our Frederic Malle PA Event at Barneys New York, Madison Avenue on June 18th (Wednesday) from 6pm - 8pm. He will be launching his latest parfum masterpiece Eau de Magnolia, an amazing addition to the collection, created by world renown perfumer Carlos Benaim. It is a crisp and sparkling blend of:
* Bergamont
* Magnolia Grandiflora
* Haitian Vetiver
* Patchouli
* Tree Moss


We will be receiving a limited amount Eau de Magnolia for this special event and are currently taking pre-sale orders. Place your pre-sale order now for pickup and meet Frederic Malle himself on June 18th. If you are unable to attend, I will gladly ship your order to your home.
 

DreamerII

Well-known member
Aug 29, 2005
My second wearing of Eau de Magnolia and exploring the scent all the day on the card.
To my mind, it's the worst scent in FM line. Malle mentioned that he says "no" very often.
This time he shouldn't launch this scent. Benaim was not capabable to compose the scent which accords with Malle scents.
Cloying sweet floral scent with a musky (with a tiniest drop of patchouli and vetiver) base notes. What do they mean when they say "chypre" base notes? It's a trivial white floral with suffocating musky sweetness.
Dries van Notten was a very good and unique scent and Malle could launch it in his line with a black label.

p.s. Malle's conversation with Benaim is quite sad too. I think Malle was thinking to say "no", however because of the respect to Benaim and the idea that couple of years spent on creating magnolia scent were gone, he said "yes"
 
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lpp

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 8, 2010
Just trying it for the first time and there was a very 'lily of the valley' -ish bit to start.
In terms of floral/magnolia scents it doesn't seem terribly sweet to me but I've only just applied it so don't know how it will wear yet.
 
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R

repose

Guest
The opening smells like a flower to me, a definite grandiflora. Imagine pulling up a fresh flower from a garden on a dewy, spring day. It reminds me of the archetype smell of putting your nose in a flower. So picture all of that: it is fresh, sweet, but also honeyed and creamy, and also earthy and polleny in a way. Truly smells like you buried your nose in beautiful flower. I have no idea what a magnolia smells like but, like I stated, it's essentially the smell of a pretty flower. I think it's a nice opening, it's refreshing to get a whiff of a floral scent that isn't overbearing and sugary sweet and cloying a la most mass market feminine perfumes.

As for wearability, personally, I'm not really into florals and could see how this may work better on the fairer sex but as it progresses it turns a bit more "gentlemanly," I can feel the vetiver working in there and I can detect the cedar and a hint of patchouli. As I normally don't seek out this genre in perfumery I have no comparisons, sorry.
 
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