Need about my formula and how to get more powerful smell

etlingera

Active member
May 1, 2017
New question today ! :)

As i'm a newbie .. i need some help !

My problem is that all (almost all one is perfect i think ;) ) of my perfume are not enough powerful.
I think some of materials are missing in formula. When i try them, i can smell during 2-3 hours sometimes.. and another problem, i love when they are really powerful to my nose. and it's not the way actually.

So, i write an example of a formula here and i will wait for your help :)

Formula 01 (it's not a fragrance for car lol ! )
 
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filousoph

Well-known member
Jul 19, 2016
Do you dilute your formula afterwards? To what concentration? With what kind of material?

apart from that: try adding an equivalent of 5 drops of Evernyl
 

etlingera

Active member
May 1, 2017
Ok i have no Evernyl here. i will have to search for it and ship france.

No, i diluate my formula with 70 drops of Ethanol 96% (we have a total amount of 100 drops for all)
 

filousoph

Well-known member
Jul 19, 2016
Ok i have no Evernyl here. i will have to search for it and ship france.

No, i diluate my formula with 70 drops of Ethanol 96% (we have a total amount of 100 drops for all)
And these are undiluted materials you use? So you would get to approx. 30% - that's pretty strong already, should last quite a while.

Yes, I forgot that in France there is a strong tendency to call it Veramoss.

Once, I removed it from one of my sketches and the fragrance collapsed completely. Very impressive.
 

etlingera

Active member
May 1, 2017
I use non diluted material. I will add evernyl and see. I use evernyl in other fragrance. I have to made some change. I bought evernyl to hermitage oil and its veramoss evernyl 20% in DPG
 

etlingera

Active member
May 1, 2017
Hi Faceless ;) yes you're right i like spice ;) this morning i buy another nutmeg essential to compare. I will see if my first one is diluted with ethanol becausenow ihave some doubt...

Cinamon is really strong ! I have diluted a EO myself in another formula. And still smell a lot.
 

etlingera

Active member
May 1, 2017
I'm asking myself if i will buy or not Fixateur 505 E on pellwall website (shipping charges are so high. I have to consider this point.)

Will it help for my problem ?
 

filousoph

Well-known member
Jul 19, 2016
Fixateur 505 E [...] Will it help for my problem ?

Did anyone recommend Fixateur 505 E as a solution?
Why not trying all the things that have been suggested and that you have at hand before ordering something new?

(But yes, it is always very exciting ordering new materials! If the shipping cost deters you, why not making a big order?)
 

Faceless void

Well-known member
Mar 17, 2017
Hi Faceless ;) yes you're right i like spice ;) this morning i buy another nutmeg essential to compare. I will see if my first one is diluted with ethanol becausenow ihave some doubt...

Cinamon is really strong ! I have diluted a EO myself in another formula. And still smell a lot.
what do u use to dilute your EO ? is alcohol ok ?
 

etlingera

Active member
May 1, 2017
Don't think it will be THE solution but a part ;) i will change formula soon. I wait for new EO of nutmeg. And during the waiting i will change another formula to see the difference.

I dilue with ethanol 96%.

It's my first step in learning so i made certainly a lot of mistake ! :)
 

Faceless void

Well-known member
Mar 17, 2017
Don't think it will be THE solution but a part ;) i will change formula soon. I wait for new EO of nutmeg. And during the waiting i will change another formula to see the difference.

I dilue with ethanol 96%.

It's my first step in learning so i made certainly a lot of mistake ! :)
I really want to buy some great EO like agarwood and dilute it, is it ok to use ethanol ?
 

etlingera

Active member
May 1, 2017
I really want to buy some great EO like agarwood and dilute it, is it ok to use ethanol ?

This question is for me ? I have some agarwood at home to perfum myself directly. It's expensive.. 50$ min. for 3ml if you want a basic agarwood. I wanted to try with a little quantity too. I will tell you when i will do my test ;)

If someone did this here ?
 

rhusse

Member
Jul 18, 2017
I just found this thread, I know it's a little late but what was the outcome of this if you still remember or care...lol
The reason I ask is because I diluted some agarwood c02 from eb and it killed the top notes after about a week. It was about a 20% solution with agarwood and perfumers alcohol only. Good thing I only used less than half a ml. Additionally it really just killed any beauty it had too. I read here somewhere after that someone said alcohol would kill the top notes. So my question is, how the heck are you supposed to use agarwood in a perfume?

Peter
 

mattmeleg

Well-known member
Aug 14, 2017
Co2`s only dilute in water. not alcohol.
I have the same agar wood. You can use it with 100% essential oils, just do not add ANY alcohol.
 

mattmeleg

Well-known member
Aug 14, 2017
Nutmeg EO : 3 drops
Ginger EO : 4 drops
Ionone Alpha : 3 drops
Aldehyde C18 : 2 drops
Amber Core : 5 drops
Cistus Labdanum Abs. : 2 drops
Gaiac EO : 3 drops
Tobacco Virginia Abs. : 4 drops
Amber : 4 drops

I`m only a beginner myself, but I think your problem MIGHT be that you have too many ambers and base notes.
You also don`t have much lifting the top of the fragrance, spices will give lift... but not as much as a citrus.

Also,
vanillin will go well with Alpha ionone, I suggested geranium as a middle note because it goes well with woods and nutmeg/ginger.
linalool gives lift to the top...
Iso-e-super will definitely make your perfume stronger.


I would do something like this:

Top Notes:
Nutmeg EO : 1 drops
Ginger EO : 1 drops
Add: linalool 2 drops (this will LIFT the top of the fragrance)
Add: Bergamot 2 drop (this will LIFT the top of the fragrance)

Spicy, Citrus top note.

Middle Notes:
Add: Geranium E.O. (or synthetic) 2 drops
Ionone Alpha : 1 drops
Add: 1 drop vanillin (to sweeten the floral Alpha Ionone and Jasmine)
Take out the Aldehyde C18, I don't believe coconuts go well with spices? I`m sorry... not sure?

Spicy floral middle notes


Woody Amber Basenotes

Amber Core : 1 drop
Cistus Labdanum Abs. : 1 drop
I`d take out the G-wood... the alpha ionone is already sweet/waxy and floral...
In its place I would add Virginia Cedar: 2 -4 drops.
Tobacco Virginia Abs. : 1 drops
Iso-e-super: 10 drops

So you have a citrus, spicy floral with a wood base...
 
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rhusse

Member
Jul 18, 2017
Co2`s only dilute in water. not alcohol.
I have the same agar wood. You can use it with 100% essential oils, just do not add ANY alcohol.

Damn, that's a quarter ounce down the drain. It looks like the p-trap in my sink is really enjoying some nice agarwood, the whole house smells of it now. At least I'm getting some use out of it. Oh well, I'll just buy a half ounce now and make sure not to use alcohol with it. How about eb's regular agarwood, is that soluble in alcyhol?

Thanks!
 

aestheticindustrialist

Well-known member
Apr 17, 2016
I`d take out the G-wood... the alpha ionone is already sweet/waxy and floral...

The Guaiacwood, though, if it's nice, could add some of its characteristic spice; I don't really consider it to be sweet/waxy or floral.

The more important question I see, however, is what are you trying to accomplish with your composition. Not: "I want more power"; rather, what's your concept.

You can have all the power in the world, but if it smells like horse puckey...

I agree that there's too much "amber" stuff going on, but etlingera, looking at your formula I have no idea what's going on. Are you hoping to make an abstract composition? Something featured throughout? If amber(gris) is your focus, well, then perhaps you're on the right track. But if the amber is somehow overpowering everything else that you're trying to get the other elements more range, I wouldn't think adding something like Fixateur (which is more amber(gris)) would really help here.

Instead of power I'd consider coming from a opening-it-up angle, as to me your formula looks heavy. Perhaps small amounts of hedione, benzyl salicylate, a negligible amount of benzyl acetate to add some light(ness) into the top, or if you're daring, perhaps experiment with something like Phenoxanol or Amyris to smooth things out.

Finally, your alpha ionone quality is so high that you're going to cause anosmia from its tiring effect. Perhaps as your smell it you're just not realizing its power because of how overdosed this is -- at 10% of your whole composition, that is staggering.
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Co2`s only dilute in water. not alcohol.
I have the same agar wood. You can use it with 100% essential oils, just do not add ANY alcohol.

Your information about CO2 extracted products is incorrect.
I can't speak about every CO2, but most are likely at least 50% alcohol soluble. For the remaining to be solved, add enough fatty acid ethyl or methyl esters.
 

julian35

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 28, 2009
Co2`s only dilute in water. not alcohol.
I have the same agar wood. You can use it with 100% essential oils, just do not add ANY alcohol.

Where did you learn that CO2 only dilute in water?!!!

From eden botanical website for their Agar CO2:
Blending Suggestions: To use this material, gently warm the bottle of Agarwood in a water bath to liquefy the contents; also gently warm the carrier oil to be used for dilution. We recommend preparing a 50-60% dilution to maintain the original tenacity of the essence. For alcohol based perfumes, instead of warming, dilute the Agarwood in alcohol until it is liquid enough to use with a dropper. With such a high concentration, you will need to add only a very small amount to your composition, or it can be further diluted to personal preference. For a pre-blended and easy to use fixed oil dilution, please see our Agarwood CO2 - 5%.

They use sunflower oil to dilute....
I personally would use Fractionated Coconut oil... it you don't want to use ethanol.
 

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