My first 8-line Accord... I think? Spicy Green Floral

greeneaj87

Super Member
May 25, 2020
I've been messing around trying to make something "green" and pleasant with only a few materials for over a month now. This is my 28th attempt, and I'm compelled to share. I think I've actually stumbled across an accord - it immediately reminded me of the heart of Creed's Original Vetiver. Everything just comes together to form this new scent, one that I find extremely pleasant. It's fairly linear too as most of these materials have a similar substantivity.

It was inspired by Appell's Hyacinth bases, which use an impressively high ratio of Phenylacetaldehyde, in addition to Cinnamic Alcohol, Linalool and PEA.

5.0 Cinnamic Alcohol
3.0 Linalool
2.0 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
1.0 Phenylacetaldehyde
0.4 Geranium Madagascar
0.2 PADMA
0.2 Triplal/MA Schiff Base
0.2 Allspice Berry

(tested at 10% concentration on skin)

Would anyone have any recommendation for top notes? I feel like stemone/cis-3-hexenol would be a little too astringent for this direction, but I could be wrong.

And of course, if you have the materials and mix it up, I'd love to hear your thoughts or suggestions.
 

PBW

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 8, 2020
A lovely Saturday morning project, thanks! I made it up; lovely! I substituted clove bud oil for the Allspice Berry (don't have). Overall impression sweet, floral, spicy - eugenol, and a little green (I don't know what Creed's Original Vetiver smells like). Nice!
I divided it into 7 and tried to add top notes which would either pick up on your green theme, continue some part of the floralicy or go in the direction of citrus. (I'm not sure what you have materials wise so went a little wild and picked a few in the hope one would work!)
Bergamal: aldehydic, verbena, bergamot
Citroasis Base: Fresh, citrus-lemon, floral - neroli, aldehydic
Octacetal: Citrus lemon & lime, waxy, green leafy, floral rose (top/middle)
Khusinil: Citrus-grapefruit, fruity-rhubarb, woody, green, vetiver
Cyclamen Aldehyde: floral-cyclamen, fresh, Linden-blossom, green, rhubarb
Kumquat EO
Methyl Pamplemousse: Fresh citrus, grapefruit peel.
Materials mostly from Pellwall.
Your accord must be quite forgiving because to me they all worked more or less! Dose level was inaccurate as done in drops, adding mostly 2 drops to approx 1.4g of material. Obviously dosing needs playing around with.
My personal favourites were Citroasis and Bergamal, both added fresh citrus lift and the aldehydic facet seemed to work well. Least favourites were Khusinil, then perhaps Methyl Pamplemousse; though there was something compelling in the dry down after 5 minutes.
Just my thoughts! may not be helpful at all!! The addition of some musks and hedione will be right on track for a lovely perfume, I will have a go :)Thanks so much! :)
 

greeneaj87

Super Member
May 25, 2020
A lovely Saturday morning project, thanks! I made it up; lovely! I substituted clove bud oil for the Allspice Berry (don't have). Overall impression sweet, floral, spicy - eugenol, and a little green (I don't know what Creed's Original Vetiver smells like). Nice!
I divided it into 7 and tried to add top notes which would either pick up on your green theme, continue some part of the floralicy or go in the direction of citrus. (I'm not sure what you have materials wise so went a little wild and picked a few in the hope one would work!)
Bergamal: aldehydic, verbena, bergamot
Citroasis Base: Fresh, citrus-lemon, floral - neroli, aldehydic
Octacetal: Citrus lemon & lime, waxy, green leafy, floral rose (top/middle)
Khusinil: Citrus-grapefruit, fruity-rhubarb, woody, green, vetiver
Cyclamen Aldehyde: floral-cyclamen, fresh, Linden-blossom, green, rhubarb
Kumquat EO
Methyl Pamplemousse: Fresh citrus, grapefruit peel.
Materials mostly from Pellwall.
Your accord must be quite forgiving because to me they all worked more or less! Dose level was inaccurate as done in drops, adding mostly 2 drops to approx 1.4g of material. Obviously dosing needs playing around with.
My personal favourites were Citroasis and Bergamal, both added fresh citrus lift and the aldehydic facet seemed to work well. Least favourites were Khusinil, then perhaps Methyl Pamplemousse; though there was something compelling in the dry down after 5 minutes.
Just my thoughts! may not be helpful at all!! The addition of some musks and hedione will be right on track for a lovely perfume, I will have a go :)Thanks so much! :)

Your thoughts are very helpful, thanks for taking the time to mix up a batch and play around with the addition of other materials!
Unfortunately I'm missing your two favorites - Citroasis and Bergamal, but I will include them with my next order of stuff I need.

Your impression of "sweet, floral, spicy and a little green" is definitely more accurate, after having another sniff. I'll have to develop this more, by adding things one at a time and seeing what happens. Thanks again, and have a good weekend!
 

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