Mitsouko EDT (1977 & late 80s) Projection and Longevity.

Sep 3, 2022
Hello everyone. I'm new to Mitsouko - I dismissed it until I encountered pre-2000s batches at a perfume meet up. Absolutely smitten. I like the EDT and extrait the best. I feel impartial about the EDP.

Since then, I've bought two EDT bottles. The first one was unmarked, but the seller said that it was from late 80s. I assume it has oxidized since the juice is darker. It smells slightly 'bruised' with a wine-like scent and a very strong with dried orange peel facet. It's still very lovely.

Unmarked atomizer bottle picture:
mZYtvdH.jpg


I recently picked up a goutte flacon from ebay, dated 1977 according to raidersofthelostscent. It was not sealed but the colour looks right to me and it smells amazing. It actually reminds me of the 90s extrait I tried, albeit lighter. All the old reviews of Mitsouko make sense now - I can smell the beautiful contrast; the peach skin, orange peel, clove, green jasmine and bready facet.

Goutte flacon after 5ml transferred to an atomizer:
sZ36p9p.png


The problem is, the juice from my goutte flacon feels very weak (to the point that I signed up basenotes for this). One spray does not suffice and reveals too much of the flinty-salty vetiver facet. On skin, no matter how much I spray, it vanishes to a weak skin-scent after 15 mins. I'm currently wearing it on fabric - 2 sprays give me the same longevity projection-wise, but the scent lasts overnight. For comparison, the unmarked atomizer doesn't project as well after 30 mins, but 1 spray on each wrists and neck sides last me the whole day with the scent persistently wafting in and out. I have to "find" Mitsouko from my goutte flacon. A bit heartbreaking since it's so beautiful.

I've read previous threads and I understand that Mitsouko is quiet and doesn't age well, but mine lasts awfully short compared. Any thoughts? Is it due to aging or am I simply not wearing enough or too much (anosmia)? I can send a sample too to an enthusiast here since I won't be seeing my perfume pals for a while. Thank you!
 
Last edited:

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
Hello—

Welcome to Basenotes and the Vintage Forum! You will find many vintage Mitsouko lovers here, including me. I have some thoughts about your bottles, but every vintage bottle is different, with its own history, so it is hard to say anything definitive.

I believe your first unmarked atomizer may be the parfum which would align with its color and the depth of the scent that you describe. Is it quite small? It looks very much like this 8 ml atomizer to me (borrowed photo):

FEABBF0F-DFA3-48D4-991D-7CCFE652A70D.jpeg

But I don’t understand why it is unmarked. Guerlain labels and markings are usually quite persistent. But the perfume within smells right, so it’s all good.

Your EDT flacon is more perplexing. Was it sealed when you received it? I ask this because your experience with your vintage EDT diverges sharply from my own. My vintage Mitsouko in the EDT and even the EDC formulations are all quite potent. Even a small spray of Mitsouko EDT should not fade away on skin in 15 minutes. And I cannot imagine Mitsouko fading away to a faint vetiver smell.

Vintage perfume collecting is always a gamble, I have to admit, but your Mitsouko EDT seems really odd. It looks fine, but the scent is definitely not what I would expect it to be. Happy to discuss further, and I am sure others will weigh in.
 
Sep 3, 2022
I believe your first unmarked atomizer may be the parfum which would align with its color and the depth of the scent that you describe. Is it quite small? It looks very much like this 8 ml atomizer to me (borrowed photo):
Hi grayspoole! Sorry, unmarked is an exaggeration - the bottom of the bottle has a transparent plastic sticker that was mostly faded (and eventually I lost). I could decipher that it's says 30ml EDT but no batch number.

Your EDT flacon is more perplexing. Was it sealed when you received it? I ask this because your experience with your vintage EDT diverges sharply from my own. My vintage Mitsouko in the EDT and even the EDC formulations are all quite potent. Even a small spray of Mitsouko EDT should not fade away on skin in 15 minutes. And I cannot imagine Mitsouko fading away to a faint vetiver smell.
It was not sealed. Was that too risky? I decided to buy it after comparing the liquid level and colour to listings of sealed bottles.

It perplexed me too. The person who showed me the Mitsoukos was wearing vintage EDT and they were absolutely beaming - it had such beautiful radiance and sillage! I know I'm anosmic to certain materials but I don't think that's the case since my Mitsouko smells 'normal' on clothes - it unravels slower and lasts forever too, albeit very quiet. On my skin it's barely perceptible and seems to go straight down to the cinnamon-y moss stage. Maybe I should ask people around me if they can smell me.
 

LeChypreSexy

Super Member
Oct 13, 2022
Hello everyone. I'm new to Mitsouko - I dismissed it until I encountered pre-2000s batches at a perfume meet up. Absolutely smitten. I like the EDT and extrait the best. I feel impartial about the EDP.

Since then, I've bought two EDT bottles. The first one was unmarked, but the seller said that it was from late 80s. I assume it has oxidized since the juice is darker. It smells slightly 'bruised' with a wine-like scent and a very strong with dried orange peel facet. It's still very lovely.

Unmarked atomizer bottle picture:
mZYtvdH.jpg


I recently picked up a goutte flacon from ebay, dated 1977 according to raidersofthelostscent. It was not sealed but the colour looks right to me and it smells amazing. It actually reminds me of the 90s extrait I tried, albeit lighter. All the old reviews of Mitsouko make sense now - I can smell the beautiful contrast; the peach skin, orange peel, clove, green jasmine and bready facet.

Goutte flacon after 5ml transferred to an atomizer:
sZ36p9p.png


The problem is, the juice from my goutte flacon feels very weak (to the point that I signed up basenotes for this). One spray does not suffice and reveals too much of the flinty-salty vetiver facet. On skin, no matter how much I spray, it vanishes to a weak skin-scent after 15 mins. I'm currently wearing it on fabric - 2 sprays give me the same longevity projection-wise, but the scent lasts overnight. For comparison, the unmarked atomizer doesn't project as well after 30 mins, but 1 spray on each wrists and neck sides last me the whole day with the scent persistently wafting in and out. I have to "find" Mitsouko from my goutte flacon. A bit heartbreaking since it's so beautiful.

I've read previous threads and I understand that Mitsouko is quiet and doesn't age well, but mine lasts awfully short compared. Any thoughts? Is it due to aging or am I simply not wearing enough or too much (anosmia)? I can send a sample too to an enthusiast here since I won't be seeing my perfume pals for a while. Thank you!
I last bought a bottle of Mitsuoko edt at Dillard's in the early 2000s and I remember it as being quite a little beast. Strong for the first hour, then softening quite a bit with a soft projection that lasted until the next day. Sometimes if vintage fragrances aren't stored well they can lose their potency. Maybe that's what happened? I remember my co-workers telling me I smelled like an "old lady". Little did they know but at that time old ladies were using Mugler's Angel!
 
Dec 14, 2020
Another vintage Mitsouko fan here. I have several versions and eras. I've also been wearing it since the 80's and like Grayspoole, I can't say it's ever been a shrinking violet ( or peach ). I wouldn't ever say it ages badly, quite the contrary ( in my experience ) nor would I describe it as weak. As a broad comparison, I find with older bottles that you can usually "go up one"in comparison to modern: EDC = EDT, EDT = EDP etc. I don't have the bottle you have in Mitsy ( I have it in Shalimar and Parue I think ? ) It looks absolutely fine to me. I do have that era EDT ( I'd have to check dates, but they're B&W zig zag so roughly 70's ) and it still has presence and longevity .

Taking of which I can help with the ribbed bottle: I have the same, Mitsouko EDT, but 50ml and mine's 1985 ( SE 6 FA 8) if that's any use
 

Starblind

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Oct 2, 2013
I am also a big Mitsy fan and have owned a wide variety of bottles and concentrations over the years.

I'm going to be an outlier here and say that the only concentration I've ever owned that was actually potent was the vintage parfum de toilette. The vintage extrait is stunning, but quite soft in projection and sillage. The vintage EDP might be something you'd be interested in. It is initially quite vivid and its scent is definitely noticeable, but it does die down fairly quickly, nonetheless.

In my opinion, Mitsouko is gorgeous, but it isn't a powerhouse of a fragrance.
 

PStoller

I’m not old, I’m vintage.
Basenotes Plus
Aug 1, 2019
I'm going to be an outlier here and say that the only concentration I've ever owned that was actually potent was the vintage parfum de toilette. The vintage extrait is stunning, but quite soft in projection and sillage. The vintage EDP might be something you'd be interested in. It is initially quite vivid and its scent is definitely noticeable, but it does die down fairly quickly, nonetheless.

In my opinion, Mitsouko is gorgeous, but it isn't a powerhouse of a fragrance.

I don't know: when Dr. T. wears Mitsouko parfum, I can smell it from down the street (or at least the next room). This might say something about how much she puts on.
 

saminlondon

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 25, 2011
The eau de toilette in the 'goutte' bottle looks very pale to me, especially for juice of that age. Could it have been watered down, I wonder?
 

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
I am also a big Mitsy fan and have owned a wide variety of bottles and concentrations over the years.

I'm going to be an outlier here and say that the only concentration I've ever owned that was actually potent was the vintage parfum de toilette. The vintage extrait is stunning, but quite soft in projection and sillage. The vintage EDP might be something you'd be interested in. It is initially quite vivid and its scent is definitely noticeable, but it does die down fairly quickly, nonetheless.

In my opinion, Mitsouko is gorgeous, but it isn't a powerhouse of a fragrance.
I too am in the camp for higher concentration Mitosuko, I think there's deeper depth with the PDT/early PDT and extrait bottles. I don't find it skewing into powerhouse territory.
 
Dec 14, 2020
I don't know: when Dr. T. wears Mitsouko parfum, I can smell it from down the street (or at least the next room). This might say something about how much she puts on.
That might explain the dichotomy: I think me and Mrs T might have something in common !

I too am in the camp for higher concentration Mitosuko, I think there's deeper depth with the PDT/early PDT and extrait bottles. I don't find it skewing into powerhouse territory.
I guess "powerhouse" might be relative but I agree the 80's PDT and Extrait are probably the strongest I own out of the vintage ( my older ones are EDT, EDC, Cologne and maybe saying the last if not fill the room, is more accurate ). I wouldn't say any disappear as the OP describes.

The only "modern" I bought for ages was 15 yrs ago, was an EDP that projects but lacks depth and complexity maybe ? I  just bought the Les Legendairies EDT and after just one go I can say it's far more powdery and soft ( can be used maybe by those a little scared by the old girl ? ) but is a thoughtful recreation that's really growing on me.
 
Sep 3, 2022
Another vintage Mitsouko fan here. I have several versions and eras. I've also been wearing it since the 80's and like Grayspoole, I can't say it's ever been a shrinking violet ( or peach ). I wouldn't ever say it ages badly, quite the contrary ( in my experience ) nor would I describe it as weak. As a broad comparison, I find with older bottles that you can usually "go up one"in comparison to modern: EDC = EDT, EDT = EDP etc. I don't have the bottle you have in Mitsy ( I have it in Shalimar and Parue I think ? ) It looks absolutely fine to me. I do have that era EDT ( I'd have to check dates, but they're B&W zig zag so roughly 70's ) and it still has presence and longevity .

Taking of which I can help with the ribbed bottle: I have the same, Mitsouko EDT, but 50ml and mine's 1985 ( SE 6 FA 8) if that's any use
Gotcha. I'll have to get my nose look at and send a sample of my Mitsky to a perfume pal. And perhaps either buy another sealed bottle or ones in atomizers. Thank you for the information of the ribbed bottle.

I am also a big Mitsy fan and have owned a wide variety of bottles and concentrations over the years.

I'm going to be an outlier here and say that the only concentration I've ever owned that was actually potent was the vintage parfum de toilette. The vintage extrait is stunning, but quite soft in projection and sillage. The vintage EDP might be something you'd be interested in. It is initially quite vivid and its scent is definitely noticeable, but it does die down fairly quickly, nonetheless.

In my opinion, Mitsouko is gorgeous, but it isn't a powerhouse of a fragrance.
But not as short as my experience, no? Is it even possible to be anosmic to Mitsouko?

I've been eyeing on the EDP and montre EDC too. I prefer the lighter concentrations - the opening is less 'pretty', but the drydown aligns more with sensibilities.

The eau de toilette in the 'goutte' bottle looks very pale to me, especially for juice of that age. Could it have been watered down, I wonder?
Is this common? Oh, how does it supposed to look like? I was told to steer away from bottles that are pushing golden amber. I did buy it from ebay, but not from a store that specializes in vintage fragrances. I've smelled perfumes diluted with isopropyl and I don't think that's the case.
 

grayspoole

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014
Is it even possible to be anosmic to Mitsouko?

I would say no, especially to vintage Mitsouko.

I've been eyeing on the EDP and montre EDC too. I prefer the lighter concentrations - the opening is less 'pretty', but the drydown aligns more with sensibilities.

I have a large “watch bottle” vintage EDC, and I just love it. The EDP will be found in newer bottles; the PDT is a similar vintage formulation but it is scarce and harder to find so I opt for the Parfum.

Is this common? Oh, how does it supposed to look like? I was told to steer away from bottles that are pushing golden amber. I did buy it from ebay, but not from a store that specializes in vintage fragrances. I've smelled perfumes diluted with isopropyl and I don't think that's the case.

The color of the perfume in your EDT flacon would not have set off any alarm bells for me—well preserved vintage Guerlain EDT’s are light in color. Unfortunately, we sometimes take the risk of buying unsealed bottles. Usually, it works out. I encourage you to get your friend to test your vintage EDT, if only to confirm your assessment. If you haven’t had it for very long, you could consider opening a return on EBay, stating that the bottle is “not as described.” Follow the Ebay dispute resolution process to the letter, and you should be able to return it. I can’t begin to speculate on why it smells as you describe, but it really doesn’t sound right to me. I’d be happy to sniff a sample too, if you like, and I can send you some vintage Mitsouko EDC. Just PM me.

Isn’t vintage collecting fun? LOL...but the good bottles are too beautiful to resist...
 

saminlondon

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 25, 2011
Is this common? Oh, how does it supposed to look like? I was told to steer away from bottles that are pushing golden amber. I did buy it from ebay, but not from a store that specializes in vintage fragrances. I've smelled perfumes diluted with isopropyl and I don't think that's the case.

It does happen, yes. It's difficult to tell on screen but I'd have expected an edt of that age to be a little darker - more in line with the first picture you posted. If you're saying it smells weak as well ... then I confess I'd begin to wonder. Comparing the performance with the ribbed bottle you posted (even if it's a little off-smelling) should help you draw your own conclusions.
 
Sep 3, 2022
The color of the perfume in your EDT flacon would not have set off any alarm bells for me—well preserved vintage Guerlain EDT’s are light in color. Unfortunately, we sometimes take the risk of buying unsealed bottles. Usually, it works out. I encourage you to get your friend to test your vintage EDT, if only to confirm your assessment. If you haven’t had it for very long, you could consider opening a return on EBay, stating that the bottle is “not as described.” Follow the Ebay dispute resolution process to the letter, and you should be able to return it. I can’t begin to speculate on why it smells as you describe, but it really doesn’t sound right to me. I’d be happy to sniff a sample too, if you like, and I can send you some vintage Mitsouko EDC. Just PM me.

Isn’t vintage collecting fun? LOL...but the good bottles are too beautiful to resist...
I'll send you a PM! Honestly even collecting vintages just for the bottles alone are worth it. They don't make it like this anymore.
 

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