Mitsouko 2007 with or without oakmoss ?

jaromil

Basenotes Member
Jan 14, 2017
dear mitsouko-fans,

i found a 2007 extrait of mitsouko online, 7E01 batch.
is this formula still made with oakmoss rich in atranol/chloratranol or was the 2007 version already after the heavy oakmoss IFRA-restrictions ?

as much as i know mitsouko parfum got several reformulations during the years, one of this incarnations was very thin but then guerlain reformulated the next one closer to the vintage again ?

thanks for your help

took the attached pictures from the selleres site..

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L'Aventurier

Basenotes Dependent
May 8, 2008
Raiders of the Lost Scent states that the parfum / extrait was only reformulated in 2012 and 2017, but I would imagine it was also slightly reformulated in the early 2000s, like most of the range. http://raidersofthelostscent.blogspot.com/2018/01/a-letter-from-ex-guerlain-employee.html

The tricky thing is that most of the first, major, notable reformulations occurred in 2007, when Edouard Flechier was tasked with meeting new IFRA restrictions. Most of the line was still in great shape at that point in time, but Heritage and Vetiver had an identity crisis (while still smelling very good).

The good news, is that I would assume the 2007 formulation is one of the best formulations, either way. I have the EdT and EdP from that era (post-Flechier reformulations) and they're still excellent, and very Mitsouko. After that, most of the classic Guerlains went downhill or had an awkward facelift, as of the early 2010s, even with the fancy new oakmoss reconstructions in the late 2010s.
 

Mudassir

Basenotes Dependent
Jun 17, 2007
In 2007, any reformulation probably had very little to do with IFRA's restrictions on oakmoss. In fact, any reformulations until 2012 most likely had very little to do with IFRA in most of the cases. Post 2012 is a different story.
 

saminlondon

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 25, 2011
It's a tricky period for Mitsouko, and one I prefer to avoid.

By the way, are you sure this doesn't date from 2017? I'm trying to remember when that packaging style was brought in - and whether (or when) the 7.5 ml size was discontinued.
 

chypre

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 10, 2006
The 7.5ml size was discontinued around 2015 (I was looking for it and even called the boutiques in Paris). I believe Mitsouko had already had its oakmoss reduced/removed by the early 2000s. 2007 was when they changed the classic packaging to that big, square box, and when they started trying to improve the reformulated Mitsouko with Flechier. Agree with N.Cal. that if you want oakmoss, you need to look at 1990s (mid to late?) at the latest. I think they started removing the oakmoss when Mitsouko was still in the classic gold-striped (but yellow-bannered) box.
 

saminlondon

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 25, 2011
The 7.5ml size was discontinued around 2015 (I was looking for it and even called the boutiques in Paris). I believe Mitsouko had already had its oakmoss reduced/removed by the early 2000s. 2007 was when they changed the classic packaging to that big, square box, and when they started trying to improve the reformulated Mitsouko with Flechier. Agree with N.Cal. that if you want oakmoss, you need to look at 1990s (mid to late?) at the latest. I think they started removing the oakmoss when Mitsouko was still in the classic gold-striped (but yellow-bannered) box.
Ah, thanks for the info re the 7.5 size. I last bought one in 2013, when it was still around.

I'd avoid anything post-2000 until about 2013. And yes, 1990s would be the perfect period for full, rich oakmoss, I agree.
 

jaromil

Basenotes Member
Jan 14, 2017
thank you so much for your help and infos..

i had the chance to buy two bottles from the same seller yesterday.. the second one seems to be from the 90‘s. so i guess i have an older and a newer formula now. 😀

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