Mature, dark, sweet berries and woods: Does this exist?

Jul 17, 2016
I'm getting to the point where I have nearly every "type" of fragrance I want covered in my collection. I have tobacco, I have musk, I have leather, I have citrus, etc. I'm struggling to find a specific type of fragrance that I have an idea for in my head but I've never encountered so it might not exist yet and I'm driving myself insane for nothing.



I want a sweet, dark fragrance suitable for a mature man. It should have a fruit note, preferably some sort of berry. No apple or citrus. No rose, no vanilla. No apple. Incense, woods, musk,resins, smoke, leather are all great. Tonka is fine too. No apple. I'm fine with any floral note except rose, fine with powder, find with challenging notes. No apple.



Why do I keep saying no apple? Because I know this place like the back of my hand and someone is dying to recommend Layton or Hugo Boss (or one of it's flankers) and that's just not what I'm looking for.



For perspective: Imagine Jubilation 25 but with the fruit dialed up and the oud dialed back. Early batches of Aventus but with the raspberry from Tuscan Leather in place of the pineapple. Comme Des Garcons Black with the cranberry note from Polo Red at the forefront. Something a man in his 40s would wear on a date.



Does something like this exist? Am I better served learning the art of perfumery and hoping that within the next 20 years I can create it? Or should I abandon all hope?



I hate saying it but price is no object at this point. If there's something out there that satisfies these criteria for $1000, I'll sample it and save up. I can't articulate how frustrating this is to find almost everything else and not this lol.
 

gerbick

Basenotes Dependent
Jun 13, 2009
Okay, gonna list out a few that I like that might fit this request:

Bond No. 9 Manhattan
Frank No. 2
Kilian Single Malt
(don't kill me for this one) Sean John I Am King of the Night - this one has poor longevity on open skin, lasts better on fabric and is surprisingly good

I would say also Tom Ford Plum Japonais, but the last three (including this one) I've listed have become harder to find. There's a few more that will probably come to mind, like Brooksfield, but the "no apple" part sorta tripped me up initially.
 
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N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
How about Amouage Dia Man
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Toxicon

Basenotes Dependent
May 29, 2021
I suspect this isn't really what you're looking for since it's not even remotely sweet, but "berries + woods" immediately made me think of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's Route du Vetiver. It's a hardcore, earthy, rooty vetiver paired with a bright blackcurrant and not much else besides some quiet sandalwood and musk in the base, all very much in service of the core vetiver and blackcurrant, that are present from top to bottom. The opening on this is intense, but it calms down to a warm, nutty, round vetiver + berry scent. One of my favorites, though it's hard to imagine this as a date scent. (Wouldn't recommend a blind buy.)
 

tspencer

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 12, 2016
Since I've been on a PAA bend lately,

A Fall (October) seasonal from Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements called "Grove" has black currant and wood.

Scent Profile: Oakwood, Cranberry, Currant, Moss and a kiss of Apricot.

The cranberry note gives it a bend that I think might not be what you want....but maybe you'll like it. It also has a slight 'camphor' back round. It's not among my favorites from them, but I think it's good quality and could find favor with someone's nose out there. When they release it in the Fall, order a sample and let people know what you think. Grove wasn't created by Doug Smythe (Doug usually makes the fragrances), but rather his partner Frances Towle and she has her own style.
 

jkonick

Basenotes Dependent
Feb 16, 2019
I suspect this isn't really what you're looking for since it's not even remotely sweet, but "berries + woods" immediately made me think of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's Route du Vetiver. It's a hardcore, earthy, rooty vetiver paired with a bright blackcurrant and not much else besides some quiet sandalwood and musk in the base, all very much in service of the core vetiver and blackcurrant, that are present from top to bottom. The opening on this is intense, but it calms down to a warm, nutty, round vetiver + berry scent. One of my favorites, though it's hard to imagine this as a date scent. (Wouldn't recommend a blind buy.)

I thought of this also, as well as Jubilation XXV but OP already mentioned that. I do love that kind of dark berry note backed with more earthy/woody "masculine" accords rather than vanilla/sandalwood/musk etc. RdV is nice but it's very harsh in the opening, to the point it smells like nail polish remover. But as it dies down the notes separate out into a really unique astringent red fruit note with the unapologetic vetiver.

My other suggestion would be ELdO Hermann a mes Cotes, which has a pretty prominent blackcurrant note - though it is a fairly weird and synthetic (but not bad) smelling composition. The main accord is an even mix of ambroxan, geosmin and calypsone (similar to calone) and it results in something that smells like those "Mr. Sketch" markers, especially the grape scented one. So it's not realistic fruit so much as a kind of neon grape soda with a bit of darker blackcurrant edge.
 

sagebrush

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 20, 2017
My first thought is Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Femme. I didn't get much rose from it; more berries, leather and woods.

Second thought : Trumper's Eucris EdP Blackcurrant, cumin, deep dark.
 

Ken_Russell

Basenotes Institution
Jan 21, 2006
Very good options already, while knowing very few that manage to convey this particular style realistically, have so far most inclined to recommend and have recognized this aspect best in:
Black XS by Paco Rabanne, TF Tuscan Leather, also La Yuqawam by Rasasi.
 

NettyYeti

Basenotes Junkie
Jan 28, 2016
For perspective: Imagine Jubilation 25 but with the fruit dialed up and the oud dialed back. Early batches of Aventus but with the raspberry from Tuscan Leather in place of the pineapple. Comme Des Garcons Black with the cranberry note from Polo Red at the forefront. Something a man in his 40s would wear on a date.

I’m not familiar with Jubilation 25 nor CdG Black, but John Varvatos Original was the first thing that came to my mind.
 

johnnyutah

Basenotes Member
Jun 20, 2014
Not necessarily dark, but fresh in a mature Italian way (with a berry note): Trussardi Fresh Uomo

discontinued, but available cheaply on the bay.
 

Andy the frenchy

Basenotes Dependent
Sep 16, 2018
[...]
I want a sweet, dark fragrance suitable for a mature man. It should have a fruit note, preferably some sort of berry. No apple or citrus. No rose, no vanilla. No apple. Incense, woods, musk,resins, smoke, leather are all great. Tonka is fine too. No apple. I'm fine with any floral note except rose, fine with powder, find with challenging notes. No apple.
[...]
I hate saying it but price is no object at this point. [...]
Laboratorio Olfattivo - Nerotic
Frederic Malle - The Moon
Guerlain - L'Homme Ideal L'Intense
HdP - Fidelis (unisex)
 

tspencer

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 12, 2016
I think one that I put on here recently from qualifies.

Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements - Clown Fruit

Scent Profile:
Artemisia (Wormwood), Hungarian Oak, Elderflower, Absinthe, Neroli, Amyris, Elderberry, Burnt Sugar, Tobacco Absolute

You really get the elderberry in this and the woods, then you have tobacco darkening it up a little and IMO, one of the most original note usages of a lightly sweet burnt sugar. Fans of PAA love the stuff and it's only made seasonally for Halloween. You can still order it now. The $26 aftershave/cologne splash is the most cost effective and wears like an EDT strength. There is also an EDP strength, which I have not tried.

1667665201953.png

 

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