Making One's Own Molecule 01 (Straight Iso E Super)

alexjustdoit

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2011
Became interested in this scent, and saw a thread made by a guy who did this, but as I am totally new to DIY, I need a little help.

I perused the "Primer Thread" already, but I feel like this might be a little different as it is just one note? Not really sure what I'm doing here.

So I just wanted to mix my own Molecule 01 without the huge price tag. I was thinking buying a bottle of Iso E Super from the Perfermer's Apprentice, and mixing it with perfumers alcohol, but beyond that I'm clueless. How much Iso E to Alcohol? Is all perfumers alcohol the same? Just need some pointers to get me on the right track.

Thanks, you BN folks are always helpful.
 

Chris Bartlett

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 17, 2011
OK first up, not all Iso E Super is the same, but if you buy the stuff from PA then it should be the original from IFF so that’s a good start - you might want to check that’s still what they are stocking before you buy as there are cheaper alternatives on the market that won’t perform as well (it’s the proportion of the gamma isomer that’s critical if you’re into chemical specifics).

Second don’t forget that what you get will be a pure chemical so handle with care.

Perfumer’s Alcohols are not all the same either, and you might want to consider using Everclear 95% ethanol if it’s available in Oregon as that way you are not introducing any other chemicals to the blend at all. Failing that choose the most neutral form of ethanol you can buy but don’t go for anything with more than around 5% water in it.

Finally I don’t know for sure what proportion is used in Molecule 01 but I would suggest you start with a 10-15% solution and certainly don’t go higher than about 20%. Ideally that should be by weight, but as you’re starting out you probably won’t have scales so what you need to know is this:
The specific gravity of Iso E Super is between 0.96 and 0.97.
The specific gravity of ethanol is roughly 0.8

So to get 100ml of a ~10% solution you’d need to put in 8ml of Iso E Super to 92ml of ethanol:
8 x .96 = 7.68
92 x .8 = 73.6

So that’s a 10.4% solution by weight - close enough for your purposes. If you don’t find that’s strong enough you can always add more Iso E Super until you’re happy with it.
 

ION

Well-known member
Feb 7, 2012
Alexjustdoit, the concept of taking a synthetic and transforming it into an one ingredient perfume is not as new as you might think.
Once you get your hands on some of those chemicals the potential is obvious. In the case of molecule 1 I feel that more thought has been given in the promotion and the image of the product than in the perfume itself.
With the hope that I will sound more playful than childish, I'd suggest you buy a few ml of the Givaudan's fabulous "black agar" material, dilute it with ethanol, call it "Black A" and wear it night in, night out with pride.
I know I did.
 
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alexjustdoit

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2011
ION I think you are right about the promotion being given more thought than the perfume, as it IS just one note after all. Perhaps I will check out this Black Agar, though I have not enjoyed that type of scent in the past.

Chris, fabulous information thank you. I tweeked the numbers a bit to get around 15% concentration instead of 10% as you used in your example, which also seems to be the concentration that Molecule 01 is, despite their marketing saying 65% (???)

So it looks like 11 ml Iso E to 89 ml Everclear would give me almost 15%. But since Everclear isnt pure ethanol, should I boost it to maybe 12 ml Iso E? Though I doubt it matters that much if I'm 1% off what I want.

One more thing, in another DIY post on this board, I read about someone using Everclear, and another user replying that Everclear wasn't a good choice (for longevity reasons I think he said) because of the water content, though small. Any such downsides to using Everclear instead of some other alcohol?
 

Chris Bartlett

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 17, 2011
. . .
Chris, fabulous information thank you. I tweeked the numbers a bit to get around 15% concentration instead of 10% as you used in your example, which also seems to be the concentration that Molecule 01 is, despite their marketing saying 65% (???)

So it looks like 11 ml Iso E to 89 ml Everclear would give me almost 15%. But since Everclear isnt pure ethanol, should I boost it to maybe 12 ml Iso E? Though I doubt it matters that much if I'm 1% off what I want.

One more thing, in another DIY post on this board, I read about someone using Everclear, and another user replying that Everclear wasn't a good choice (for longevity reasons I think he said) because of the water content, though small. Any such downsides to using Everclear instead of some other alcohol?

You’re very welcome.

I am not sure what they might mean by that marketing, but I can tell you with certainty that there is an IFRA limit on the content of Iso E Super in a fragrance and that limit is 21.4% - I think it’s very unlikely that limit has been exceeded in Molecule 01.

The small amount of water in the Everclear makes no difference to the calculation - it’s the amount of Iso E Super that is important and the specific gravity I gave for ethanol takes account of the small amount of water present. However:

11 x .96 = 10.6
89 x .8 = 71.2

Takes you to 13%: the rest of the calculation is 10.6/(10.6+71.2) x100

13ml of Iso E Super and 87ml of ethanol will give you a 15.2% solution, which is more what you are looking for.

I’m not sure who was suggesting that Everclear isn’t a good choice but I can only imagine s/he was thinking of a lower ethanol form of the product. It is possible to obtain anhydrous ethanol but it is not suitable for use in perfume.

The advantage of denatured ethanol (used by most of the perfume industry, including me) is purely one of tax - it attracts a lower rate of duty in almost all administrations than alcohol that is safe to drink - otherwise it is a marginally inferior product to the pure 95.6% (usually generalised to 95% or 96%) stuff that is the highest concentration you can obtain by distillation, which is essentially what Everclear is.

Longevity is hardly likely to be a problem with Iso E Super anyway - it lasts for more than a week on a smelling strip.
 

alexjustdoit

Well-known member
Aug 9, 2011
Ahh I did 10.6 / 71.2 x100, not taking into account the full total. Thank you for clearing that up.
Not sure how I'll get the Everclear as I am under age, but I could probably find an adult to give me aprox 100ml of it. As for the rest, I suppose I shall start ordering supplies. Recommendation on a place to order an empty bottle? Quick google search didn't reveal many promising looking websites.
 

Chris Bartlett

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 17, 2011
On the Everclear problem, it may be worth seeking out a source of a good perfumer’s alcohol instead, assuming that isn’t age restricted. There are some suggestions for US sources in the sticky thread about isopropyl myristate in ethanol I think.

As to bottles: I order many of mine from Best Bottles - but although they will sell just one bottle of any given size their minimum order is probably a problem. Perfumer’s Apprentice stock a small atomiser bottle you could consider as you’ll be ordering from them anyway.

Perhaps someone on your side of the Atlantic can help with sourcing?
 

UncleTommy

New member
Feb 24, 2012
Let me begin by saying I have been a visitor of Basenotes for a the last couple of years. I have thoroughly enjoyed my time, and education, here. Thank you to all the incredibly knowledgeable people who share their time, opinions, and expertise with those of us who find the sense of smell an amazing and rewarding gift.

This is the first time I've felt compelled to post a comment. I have SO much to learn, and not much to say.

Chris, you rock! Thank you for the information on Iso E Super. I have been “playing” with this for a little while, and I believe this will help greatly. Most helpful answer I have seen on this topic, and I know there have been several.

And thank you to alexjustdoit for asking the question.

Take care all.
 

LloydLlewellyn

Well-known member
May 9, 2011
I'm taking advantage of the fact that this thread is recent, and sorry for barging in on the serious chemicals discussion, which I am pretty uneducated at, but I would like to ask you guys: can you layer this Iso E Super "soliflore" with already constructed fragrances? I have read that it somehow rounds up other ingredients, so it may boost other fragrances as well?
I am asking this because, lazily, I bought a bottle of dilluted Iso E off Ebay and I am pretty disappointed with its smell, this very obviously synthetic smelling cedar, and I'd like to give it some use together with my other scents... What do you guys think it may combine well with and how is the effect probably going to be, always parting from fact that it is recommendable to layer it with something else?
 

Joe C

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2011
Why not get a few essential oils to add to it? maybe some vetiver and some citrus so you are essentially using it as your base.
 

Chris Bartlett

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 17, 2011
I'm taking advantage of the fact that this thread is recent, and sorry for barging in on the serious chemicals discussion, which I am pretty uneducated at, but I would like to ask you guys: can you layer this Iso E Super "soliflore" with already constructed fragrances? I have read that it somehow rounds up other ingredients, so it may boost other fragrances as well?
I am asking this because, lazily, I bought a bottle of dilluted Iso E off Ebay and I am pretty disappointed with its smell, this very obviously synthetic smelling cedar, and I'd like to give it some use together with my other scents... What do you guys think it may combine well with and how is the effect probably going to be, always parting from fact that it is recommendable to layer it with something else?

I’m generally a fan of layering and it works best with something simple - so Iso E should be idea. However if what you’ve got smells like ‘synthetic cedar’ then it may not be iso e super at all: that sounds more like cedramber to me (cedryl methyl ether) or one of several other cedar substitutes.

Whatever it is you don’t have anything to loose by experimenting with it, since you’ve got the stuff to hand anyway - try it with things and see what combinations you enjoy.
 

LloydLlewellyn

Well-known member
May 9, 2011
I’m generally a fan of layering and it works best with something simple - so Iso E should be idea. However if what you’ve got smells like ‘synthetic cedar’ then it may not be iso e super at all: that sounds more like cedramber to me (cedryl methyl ether) or one of several other cedar substitutes.

Whatever it is you don’t have anything to loose by experimenting with it, since you’ve got the stuff to hand anyway - try it with things and see what combinations you enjoy.

Thanks guys! Well, I think I smell something cedar-like, but then again, it might also be me describing it inaccurately! In the beginning it actually smells like some fresh paint or solvent. I get that quick olfactory fatigue as well... Well, anyhow, I'll layer it with some musk for starters, and then move on to other olfactory groups... This could be fun :)
 

Hey.its.me

Well-known member
Apr 7, 2011
I started reading this thread and broke down and "odor'ed" some essential oils from a site called silky scents? Yeah me neither! Read some blogs of guy's here about sandalwood and patchouly and after reading this post some more today got some mini spritzer vials and pipettes from PA link just a few posts above. I am looking for that old old head shop scent of either sandalwood or patchouly that is one dimensional. Knowing that since Etro stopped making the Holy Grail of Patchouly I thought I'd give it whirl. Found the everclear stuff but oddly I found it in the liqueur store not anything online. Hmm?

I have a bottle of Molecule01 coming in the mail, but since I already have some basic tools I'd like to play around with this a bit. So the question is, if there are more than one variant of Iso Super E with what sounds like to me several concentrations. Just where is it that one should be looking at to get a good grade of this solution? Thanks!

Oh and whoever said essential oils were cheap must have some very deep pockets just lined with cashola. Just 5ml of Sandalwood was 54$ and it didn't even state Mysore, just 'East India'
 

joshmpdx

Well-known member
Dec 20, 2009
Alex, feel free to shoot me a PM. Im in town and have quite a bit of Iso E Super and Ethanol to show you the process.

josh
 

Akahina

Well-known member
Jun 9, 2011
Chris has been very helpful and I thank you Chris for your kindness and help!

And joshmpdx...another Portlander here! Glad to see you.
 

Akahina

Well-known member
Jun 9, 2011
Well, I used Chris' formula for a 15% solution but moved the decimal point one spot to the left and made 10ml. I assume that since this is an artificial chemical that the stuff does not have to set and age. Twenty-four hours later and a good shake or two and I am going to wear this today. I at last know what Iso E Super smells like! Dry cedar to me. I have yet to see how this works and lasts. Will report back... Initially the smell is rather light so I wonder what reactions I will get today. Stay tuned!
 

Akahina

Well-known member
Jun 9, 2011
So how was your wearing......? I am curious.....

I mixed this to about 15% and let it set for a few days, then tested it one day.

I asked someone at work if they could smell this and they said yes, every time I passed by they could smell a lovely trail. After about 8 hours I went out for a beer with friends and sat at a picnic table outside. Someone across from me asked what I was wearing and I told them. Everyone at the table said they could smell this warm cedar smell that was very pleasant. Could not believe anyone could smell this after so long. This is a weird one...
 

ION

Well-known member
Feb 7, 2012
Weather is lovely in Greece now, sunny and a hint too warm during daytime (ISO E Super is not exactly ideal for this weather keep this in mind).
I wear mine in a much higher dilution 40% with a 2% addition of Lyral. I carry it along with my preliminary editions of my own perfumes in small vials and spray on occasion to check reactions. ISO E Super so far is very effective on women. I spray my perfumes always on my clothing; this way they last longer as well.
Don't be surprised by its tenacity. It is among those that last long but project moderately.
 

Chris Bartlett

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 17, 2011
Weather is lovely in Greece now, sunny and a hint too warm during daytime (ISO E Super is not exactly ideal for this weather keep this in mind).
I wear mine in a much higher dilution 40% with a 2% addition of Lyral. I carry it along with my preliminary editions of my own perfumes in small vials and spray on occasion to check reactions. ISO E Super so far is very effective on women. I spray my perfumes always on my clothing; this way they last longer as well.
Don't be surprised by its tenacity. It is among those that last long but project moderately.

40% - good heavens! Do you really mean that? So 100g of the mixture would be like this:

58g ethanol
40g Iso E Super
2g Lyral

is that correct?

If so spraying it on your clothing rather than your skin is probably a good idea on safety grounds as well as for longevity - that’s a very high concentration indeed.
 

ION

Well-known member
Feb 7, 2012
Hi Chris and happy Easter!
I remember the old "Fahrenheit" was something like 25% of Iso E alone and I do remember that a Lalique perfume (the one with the lovely name) that came out only 5 years ago was an impressive 80% of Iso E (no, I am not going to put an exclamation mark here :) or they could just mean of the fragrance concentrate, it is unclear and certainly not my point here).
I do spray my perfumes on my clothing and I do push my tools a little bit further in the beginning in order to understand their nature. Obviously, it works.
 
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Akahina

Well-known member
Jun 9, 2011
Hi Chris and happy Easter!
I remember the old "Fahrenheit" was something like 25% of Iso E alone and I do remember that a Lalique perfume (the one with the lovely name) that came out only 5 years ago was an impressive 80% of Iso E (no, I am not going to put an exclamation mark here :) or they could just mean of the fragrance concentrate, it is unclear and certainly not my point here).
I do spray my perfumes on my clothing and I do push my tools a little bit further in the beginning in order to understand their nature. Obviously, it works.

Chris is the better expert here, but I believe that those concentrations you mention would be in the undiluted perfume oil! 80% when diluted would be somewhere between 8 and 16% in the final product. 25% would be diluted to 2.5-5% in the final product. Be careful!!!
 

ION

Well-known member
Feb 7, 2012
I am sure they are of the fragrance concentrate or we would talk of the extract of the perfume extract!
Don't worry, I only made a 2ml vial and no skin contact.
 

fragnewbie

New member
Jun 7, 2012
Hello everybody, I'm reading the forum with great interest since a long time. Now I thought maybe I can contribute a little bit;) Concerning the right level of the mixture I also have no idea :D Somewhere on the net I found that on the packaging of the Molecule 01 is written: 100ml, 80% Volume and ingridients are alcohol, water (?) and iso e super. So why the water and the low alcohol value in the mixture? Most people say 10ml of iso e super and 90ml of alcohol. Maybe that helps some of the experts here a little bit :)

If anybody has an idea what's the deal with the water and the "low" alcohol amount please let us know
 

ksennish

Well-known member
Jan 19, 2012
Just for fun I decided to mix up a bottle of this since I had plenty extra ISO E sitting around from the last scent I was working on.

I ended up doing 20% ISO E by weight with perfumer's alcohol, just shy of the IFRA limit on purpose. I wanted to test the potency of the molecule near that limit. My source was perfumer's apprentice. I wore it for about 4 or 5 days and honestly, even wearing a heavy dose of it (I usually do one spray of anything, and I was doing two of this), it didn't seem to really work well on me.

I got almost no reaction, and when I asked people had to really get right up to me to smell it. I could smell it only gently on my own skin, but that was it. I did have one stranger in a room say "who is wearing that incredible fragrance in here", but that was it. I don't know if I'm just a bad carrier for it, or I was surrounded by people who didn't have a nose for it, or what.
 

Chris Bartlett

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 17, 2011
Hello everybody, I'm reading the forum with great interest since a long time. Now I thought maybe I can contribute a little bit;) Concerning the right level of the mixture I also have no idea :D Somewhere on the net I found that on the packaging of the Molecule 01 is written: 100ml, 80% Volume and ingridients are alcohol, water (?) and iso e super. So why the water and the low alcohol value in the mixture? Most people say 10ml of iso e super and 90ml of alcohol. Maybe that helps some of the experts here a little bit :)

If anybody has an idea what's the deal with the water and the "low" alcohol amount please let us know

Ethanol used for perfume always contains about 5% water (4% by weight) because it forms an azeotrope. Molecule 01 is made at about 15% concentration of Iso E Super, so that leaves 80% ethanol. The water isn't acting as a fixative and (probably) wasn't added as such at all.
 

thomascrown7

Member
Mar 20, 2013
Hi everybody,

I'm new to this forum and I also decided to try and make my own Molecule 01 as DIY has always been fun for me and I really don't have enough money to buy expensive originals :)

I've already ordered Iso E Super and Perfumers alcohol (the only one I was able to get in my country contained denatured alcohol, isopropyl myristate and dpgl) and I have also read the Primer, however I do have couple of questions and I would be really glad if someone more knowledgable than me would help me with them.

1. I purchased a couple of aluminium bottles with atomizers, do I need to sterilize them in the oven as well prior to filling (of course, without atomizers, hehe)?

2. I don't understand the "sitting" process entirely, after mixing iso e super and alcohol, do I need to leave it open or close it in glass container for several weeks? Or can I just fill the aluminium bottles and let it rest in them? As somebody else pointed out, is it really necessary to wait for 4-6 weeks with just mixing iso e super and perfumers alcohol? Also, after sitting period, do I need to add distilled water to the mix and filter thru coffee filter?

Thanks in advance for answers.

Cheers, Thomas.
 

Skelly

Well-known member
Jan 4, 2013
1. I cant think of any reason why you would want to heat sterilise them. Rinse them with alcohol if you like.

2. I reckon that all you'll need is a good shake to be good to go with your homemade Molecule 01

3. No need for water or coffee filters with this one. No need for water in any case afaik.

-
 

Skelly

Well-known member
Jan 4, 2013
Perfumes are left to age after blending because all sorts of slow micro reactions may occur between the possibly hundreds of organic compounds (a natural oil may contain many compounds) you're mixing together, and dumping the lot into ethanol will probably start even more. So you have to give 'em time to sort themselves out. But if you're mixing just one chemical with ethanol there's not much to react, so...

-
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Wow Britzman, you've been here 5 years and made one post?



Why not ask a few more questions ...:happy:



There "Might" be something else in Molecule 01, but there's not supposed to be.



Straight up Iso E Super is probably pretty darn close, but I have to admit never having swallowed the single molecule line bait, nor bothered to smell it either.



This is Minimalism x 1000%



My Work is completely Orchestral and often 100 ingredients, without really trying. The OTHER end of the spectrum, I suppose...



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britzman

Member
May 22, 2008
Mmm thats what I figured. You operate like my aunt whom is a semi professional perfumeress. I understand how unsophisticated the fragerance sounds on paper but I found the real deal irrisitable on my friend and thanks to this thread, ive ordered the ingredients to replicate it.

Ive loved basenotes for the database and reviews, however my nose doesnt feel elite enough to properly assess scents as most members here can.


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Tallat

Well-known member
Aug 28, 2012
iso e super is one of the most amazing chamical that i have found right now...........

i have made my ''01'' with 15% of iso e super and its amazing

i have done and expariment like this

iso e super 50%

hedone 10%

methyl octine carbonate 1%

B A(BANZIL ACTATE) 1%

benzyl salicylate 5%

methyl cedryl ketone) 5%

aldehayed c7 2%

vernaldehyde 3%

aphermate 2%

eucalyptus oil 5%

lavender oil 3%

limonene 3%

jeronal 4%

citral extra 5%

benzophenone-2 1%

made my carried oil with pure ethnol(99.88) adding IPM .....DPG......AND DEP

FOR ME ITS WORK VERY WELL.............


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mcervino

Well-known member
Aug 14, 2013
Hi All,



Till a couple of weeks ago i was just collection fragrances, not knowing that the fragrance world was so big and that there is so much to learn! Untill i met Basenotes :) !

After 3 years of collecting fragrances i recently decided that i want to start making my owns.



So i have read and followed alot of discussions on the forum, but there are a few things that i just don't understand.



In one of the first posts chris said:

So to get 100ml of a ~10% solution youd need to put in 8ml of Iso E Super to 92ml of ethanol:
8 x .96 = 7.68
92 x .8 = 73.6

So thats a 10.4% solution by weight - close enough for your purposes. If you dont find thats strong enough you can always add more Iso E Super until youre happy with it.




I just don't understand where the 8ml Iso E Super and the 92ml Ethanol comes from? I would rather think "okey, 10% of 100ml = 10ml of Iso E Super". But that seems to be wrong...



Could someone help me out here?



Thanks in Advance,



M. Cervino



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