Mainstream. The beginning of the end?

[Kaern]

Probably not yet in sales, but that may come. Even Guerlain and Dior have bypassed creativity with Ideal and Sauvage imo.

I'm now looking back at Attitude with great fondness.

It's all, vintage, vintage, vintage now.

Discuss at will

 

[yarn]

For some on here I would agree with you (myself included)

As for the rest of the world, not so sure

 

[Akahina]

Mediocrity is the name of the game and where the money and profits are. Perfumes mostly smell like each other now, cars all look alike, music is mostly made by formula. It's about what sells and most people want to have what's good enough. Of course there is a bit of creativity, but at a price. Mainstream is where it is at for corporate sales and I don't expect the best from mainstream anything. Appealing to the masses almost requires something bland. Occasionally one is surprised and that moment is a rare treat.

 

[Kaern]

For some on here I would agree with you (myself included)

As for the rest of the world, not so sure

More and more stores are stocking 'niche' or what is considered niche, so something's happening

 

[Kaern]

Mediocrity is the name of the game and where the money and profits are. Perfumes mostly smell like each other now, cars all look alike, music is mostly made by formula. It's about what sells and most people want to have what's good enough. Of course there is a bit of creativity, but at a price. Mainstream is where it is at for corporate sales and I don't expect the best from mainstream anything. Appealing to the masses almost requires something bland. Occasionally one is surprised and that moment is a rare treat.

I agree 100%

Even mediocre is being kind to some mainstream fragrances now -- it's just getting worse imo

 

[Ken_Russell]

Let us hope-even if it sounds Utopian/unrealistic- that, if nothing changes and/or this situation continues, so many BN members will "take their business elsewhere" (vintages, yard sales, the few houses unaffected, more alternative manufacturers and/or retailers, non-IRFA member countries etc.), until the perfumers, fragrance houses, other industry professionals will be forced to change their attitudes

 

[hednic]

Agree that some of the most recent creations by some designer houses are lackluster, but not awful IMO. The trend in terms of creativity seems to be in a temporary downswing, but still have hope that it will rebound.

 

[badarun]

Niche is the new designer (ok, let's rename it high end designer) & Indie is the new niche...

Now let's all fight it out about the definitions of niche, indie etc

But agree with Kaern - an older designer not including masterpieces were still head & shoulders above many of today's niche - say VIP Special Reserve, Furyo etc...

As for today's designers - I've given up after smelling the chemical garbage named Sauvage (sorry to all those that like this)...

 

[Bonnette]

Even though it costs more than I want to spend, I'm buying backup bottles of my favorite and still-acceptable mainstream fragrances (and not buying many new releases), because they're only going to get worse with restrictions/reformulation. Niche and vintage are holding my interest, these days.

 

[Kaern]

Let us hope-even if it sounds Utopian/unrealistic- that, if nothing changes and/or this situation continues, so many BN members will "take their business elsewhere" (vintages, yard sales, the few houses unaffected, more alternative manufacturers and/or retailers, non-IRFA member countries etc.), until the perfumers, fragrance houses, other industry professionals will be forced to change their attitudes

I hope for that happy day to

Agree that some of the most recent creations by some designer houses are lackluster, but not awful IMO. The trend in terms of creativity seems to be in a temporary downswing, but still have hope that it will rebound.

When you think back to the eighties and nineties, today's designer/mainstream offerings just don't compare. So people are having to pay inflated prices for the 'vintages' now. I think it is a forlorn expectation that this will change but I hope you are right.

 

[sjg3839]

Good thread. Smoke and mirrors is dispersed to make consumers think that because a fragrance is expensive with a fancy bottle, that it is better than the masterpieces that got folks started in this hobby in the first place.

 

[Kaern]

Niche is the new designer (ok, let's rename it high end designer) & Indie is the new niche...

Now let's all fight it out about the definitions of niche, indie etc

But agree with Kaern - an older designer not including masterpieces were still head & shoulders above many of today's niche - say VIP Special Reserve, Furyo etc...

As for today's designers - I've given up after smelling the chemical garbage named Sauvage (sorry to all those that like this)...

Exactly my view. I'm not coming from a snobbish angle either, I'd love to purchase some great designer fragrances for £40 or £50 a pop and let others do so to.

Of course there are exceptions but they are few and far between. When I tested 'Legend' or whatever it is called by Cristiano Ronaldo, I felt anger more than anything else.

 

[Kaern]

Good thread. Smoke and mirrors is dispersed to make consumers think that because a fragrance is expensive with a fancy bottle, that it is better than the masterpieces that got folks started in this hobby in the first place.

Yes -- and we would all be a lot richer. I feel cheated having to spend so much for one 'niche' bottle when we know Dior, Guerlain and Chanel et al have the expertise to produce marvels at reasonable prices because they have done so in the past.

 

[David Ruskin]

Too many fragrance launches, too many fragrances launched upon the decision of committees. Too much Marketing BS. Too much spent on the advertising and the promotion. Too little spent on the creation of new and interesting fragrances. The entire attitude towards Perfume has changed. Not that long ago it was a major event if a new fragrance was launched. Most people owned maybe one or at the most two fragrances, which were their signature fragrances. They would be available for years, if not decades. All this has changed. Already in the first three months of this year Basenotes has recorded over 300 new launches. Because it is not possible to trust that your favourite fragrance will be there the next time you wish to re-buy, because it is not possible to be sure that the same fragrance name will smell the same as the last bottle you bought, because there have been flankers upon flankers which come and go as quickly as the clouds, the buyers of fragrance do not care anymore. Most people do not care. Fragrance is no longer special; it is a mere commodity and is treated as such.

 

[mr. reasonable]

It's pretty grim out there - for the reasons David listed above . . . and of course the whole EU/IFRA thing which has severly limited the pallette available. There are the odd quite good ones still appearing (relatively speaking, given the conditions under which they are made) but none that I have bought. But that's also a personal taste thing and the fact that I own enough to be getting on with - spoilt by the fact that I was buying stuff years ago and pretty quickly saw the writing on the wall.

I don't chase down stuff the way I used to - in last few years I liked Hasu no Hana, the two one-off projects Vero did (I suppose that's an oxymoron) and Maai. Friends outside of basenotes who seem to be much better informed on what is going on do recommend some interesting stuff from time to time, though, and if they are vehement enough I'll make an effort.

'The Mainstream' seems to be utterly devoid of originality - afraid of it - so why buy a pale imitation of something that was probably done better not so long ago and still available, I guess? I dunno.

At least they brought Yohji Homme and Helmut Lang back more or less intact - that's good news!

 

[sjg3839]

How true my friend!

Yes -- and we would all be a lot richer. I feel cheated having to spend so much for one 'niche' bottle when we know Dior, Guerlain and Chanel et al have the expertise to produce marvels at reasonable prices because they have done so in the past.

 

[dougczar]

Sorry, I don't think the sky is falling.

And what is "mainstream" now? If you are looking for a masterpiece at Sears, then you get what you deserve.

Reading Basenoter after Basenoter complain that there are just too many choices out there now really has me scratching my head. Sure there is more crap out there now than ever. That's because there is more of everything out there. If your definition of this hobby was walking into your mall and smelling 10 things (probably all they had had behind the counter in 1982) and picking your favorite, and holding it up above your head like the Lion King and proclaiming it a masterpiece above all others... just means it was the best of the lot really.

But everyone who thinks back at what "wow'ed" them 20 years ago, just remember, you didn't have as much experience as you do now - perhaps if you went back in a time machine to your local Hudson's or town K-Mart, you would realize the selection back then was crap, and you might even fail to fall head over heals for them like you may have years ago. My mother worked selling fragrances for a while when I was very young in the mall. I had handfuls of Pierre Cardin samples and other crap that would make Exceptional - Beacuse You Are seem like a work of art in comparison. Be careful of selective memory. There was some fine stuff back then, but not all of it was.

Don't know about "mainstream", since that is for people who don't take too much interest in this hobby, but the total number of options available now are so much better than before, even if I can't have my Vintage Polo anymore. You may have to weed through a larger haystack now, but there are more needles to find than there used to be - and sites like this make it easier to find them.

 

[Kaern]

Sorry, I don't think the sky is falling.

And what is "mainstream" now? If you are looking for a masterpiece at Sears, then you get what you deserve.

Reading Basenoter after Basenoter complain that there are just too many choices out there now really has me scratching my head. Sure there is more crap out there now than ever. That's because there is more of everything out there. If your definition of this hobby was walking into your mall and smelling 10 things (probably all they had had behind the counter in 1982) and picking your favorite, and holding it up above your head like the Lion King and proclaiming it a masterpiece above all others... just means it was the best of the lot really.

But everyone who thinks back at what "wow'ed" them 20 years ago, just remember, you didn't have as much experience as you do now - perhaps if you went back in a time machine to your local Hudson's or town K-Mart, you would realize the selection back then was crap, and you might even fail to fall head over heals for them like you may have years ago. My mother worked selling fragrances for a while when I was very young in the mall. I had handfuls of Pierre Cardin samples and other crap that would make Exceptional - Beacuse You Are seem like a work of art in comparison. Be careful of selective memory. There was some fine stuff back then, but not all of it was.

Don't know about "mainstream", since that is for people who don't take too much interest in this hobby, but the total number of options available now are so much better than before, even if I can't have my Vintage Polo anymore. You may have to weed through a larger haystack now, but there are more needles to find than there used to be - and sites like this make it easier to find them.

I get your point -- 'nostalgia' and all that, but I can't see folk in twenty years time looking for vintage versions of 'Invictus', ' One Million' 'Made to Measure' etc etc.

Yes, there has always been 'mainstream' rubbish, but also some really terrific fragrances at reasonable prices. In the last 2 or 3 years, I can't think of barely one that hasn't followed a tired formula and it will just get worse -- unless 'niche' products really start to take off and bite into the mall profits.

Didn't Chanel have a golden opportunity with 'Boy Chanel' -- but that is going to be part of the 'Exclusif' range (at least we will be spared a shedload of flankers)

 

[hitman]

Target every layer/segment of customers to get the money. You have to pay more if you need "more distinct", "more niche" or "more creativity".

 

[Paradeiserl]

Too many fragrance launches, too many fragrances launched upon the decision of committees. Too much Marketing BS. Too much spent on the advertising and the promotion. Too little spent on the creation of new and interesting fragrances. The entire attitude towards Perfume has changed. Not that long ago it was a major event if a new fragrance was launched. Most people owned maybe one or at the most two fragrances, which were their signature fragrances. They would be available for years, if not decades. All this has changed. Already in the first three months of this year Basenotes has recorded over 300 new launches. Because it is not possible to trust that your favourite fragrance will be there the next time you wish to re-buy, because it is not possible to be sure that the same fragrance name will smell the same as the last bottle you bought, because there have been flankers upon flankers which come and go as quickly as the clouds, the buyers of fragrance do not care anymore. Most people do not care. Fragrance is no longer special; it is a mere commodity and is treated as such.

You are so damn right, David! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

 

[Kaern]

You have to pay more if you need "more distinct", "more niche" or "more creativity".

Dior Homme isn't expensive (relatively - neither is Egoiste. It can be done.

Now, I read that YSL have dumped Hedi Slimane (instigator of DH)

 

[Kaern]

Too many fragrance launches, too many fragrances launched upon the decision of committees. Too much Marketing BS. Too much spent on the advertising and the promotion. Too little spent on the creation of new and interesting fragrances. The entire attitude towards Perfume has changed. Not that long ago it was a major event if a new fragrance was launched. Most people owned maybe one or at the most two fragrances, which were their signature fragrances. They would be available for years, if not decades. All this has changed. Already in the first three months of this year Basenotes has recorded over 300 new launches. Because it is not possible to trust that your favourite fragrance will be there the next time you wish to re-buy, because it is not possible to be sure that the same fragrance name will smell the same as the last bottle you bought, because there have been flankers upon flankers which come and go as quickly as the clouds, the buyers of fragrance do not care anymore. Most people do not care. Fragrance is no longer special; it is a mere commodity and is treated as such.

Some great points - thanks.

A saturation of ordinariness is what we are getting for sure

 

[pluran]

Perfumer Ralf Schwieger on the gourmand:

Would you say that this is insulting to the Perfumer’s craft?

"I personally don’t like these notes and not many other Perfumers do, either.

"Could you perhaps say that this trend has contributed to an anti-intellectualisation of perfume?

"Yes, I think perhaps you could. The concepts of Fougère and Chypre were invented as illustrations of destinations, almost abstract compared to the idea of cotton candy."

"My personal taste is rather for leather, patchouli, woody notes, spiciness, and the Chypres which are almost forgotten in men’s perfumery."

"For consumer products, it really has to smell clean, and this doesn’t interest me much."


.......“It’s interesting that the dosage of this note in Angel is actually very low – Angel was a similar concentration to Baby Doll. Throughout the last 20 years it has started going up and up. Now it is averaging around 4%. I think that I would like to try a composition of 10% ethyl maltol as a bit of a joke - but is it really worth it? At such a high dosage the blend might recrystallise (ethyl maltol is a solid material) and precautions would need to be taken, but this is the direction the industry is going in.”

“Right now, gourmand notes are only sweet things and the savoury aspect is ignored – it’s sad that we don’t talk about this. I am interested in saltiness – this is something I like to work with as you can achieve this effect from current perfumery raw materials. We evoked the salt association in Eau des Merveilles and discussed the smell of skin after a bath in the ocean during development. I am always happy when people acknowledge this after wearing the fragrance.”

“It might surprise you to know that there are really only two materials - maltol and ethyl maltol. They are two different materials but very similar – the one which is the most popular is ethyl maltol, it is just more soluble. There is no real olfactory difference. Then there is one other note, furaneol, it smells like burnt sugar or in dilution like strawberries. There are more and more introductions of this note, too, nowadays....

....Everything smells the same because of this – other notes in that family are sulfurol as discussed earlier and buttery notes such as acetoin which comes from food flavours. Currently, this is not used in high percentages but could become more popular and might grow over time. I must say that these sweet notes are quite easy to use and clients keep asking us to put it in submissions more and more. You’re coming to percentages as high a 5% and we’re only talking about fine fragrances. In the USA, with all the specialty retail fragrances such as Bath & Body Works – there is no limit to sweetness.”

________________________________


-- Dior's Cuir Cannage is excellent. It gives me some confidence that it won't be long before designer perfume houses make better things. It's one of the best fragrances of any kind that I've smelled in a long time. It actually possesses the genius of compositional balance ! Narciso (2014) is also excellent, and I'm sure there are others, but right now it's all about hygienic disinfectants and bon bons. Anti-intellectualism and the heavy demand for fresh mediocrity are getting more than they can eat. And I totally disagree with the idea that there is a lot to choose from in designer, niche, artisanal, whatever. There are a lot of interesting accords in niche, but there are very few genuinely great fragrances. Always having fun looking, though.

..................................................................

 

[Rüssel]

Every now and then I receive samples of new women's scents in the post, they all smell pretty much the same and awful to me. Someone must buy all that stuff though.

 

[Kaern]

Perfumer Ralf Schwieger on the gourmand:

Would you say that this is insulting to the Perfumer’s craft?

"I personally don’t like these notes and not many other Perfumers do, either.

"Could you perhaps say that this trend has contributed to an anti-intellectualisation of perfume?

"Yes, I think perhaps you could. The concepts of Fougère and Chypre were invented as illustrations of destinations, almost abstract compared to the idea of cotton candy."

"My personal taste is rather for leather, patchouli, woody notes, spiciness, and the Chypres which are almost forgotten in men’s perfumery."

"For consumer products, it really has to smell clean, and this doesn’t interest me much."


.......“It’s interesting that the dosage of this note in Angel is actually very low – Angel was a similar concentration to Baby Doll. Throughout the last 20 years it has started going up and up. Now it is averaging around 4%. I think that I would like to try a composition of 10% ethyl maltol as a bit of a joke - but is it really worth it? At such a high dosage the blend might recrystallise (ethyl maltol is a solid material) and precautions would need to be taken, but this is the direction the industry is going in.”

“Right now, gourmand notes are only sweet things and the savoury aspect is ignored – it’s sad that we don’t talk about this. I am interested in saltiness – this is something I like to work with as you can achieve this effect from current perfumery raw materials. We evoked the salt association in Eau des Merveilles and discussed the smell of skin after a bath in the ocean during development. I am always happy when people acknowledge this after wearing the fragrance.”

“It might surprise you to know that there are really only two materials - maltol and ethyl maltol. They are two different materials but very similar – the one which is the most popular is ethyl maltol, it is just more soluble. There is no real olfactory difference. Then there is one other note, furaneol, it smells like burnt sugar or in dilution like strawberries. There are more and more introductions of this note, too, nowadays....

....Everything smells the same because of this – other notes in that family are sulfurol as discussed earlier and buttery notes such as acetoin which comes from food flavours. Currently, this is not used in high percentages but could become more popular and might grow over time. I must say that these sweet notes are quite easy to use and clients keep asking us to put it in submissions more and more. You’re coming to percentages as high a 5% and we’re only talking about fine fragrances. In the USA, with all the specialty retail fragrances such as Bath & Body Works – there is no limit to sweetness.”

________________________________


-- It's a derivative fragrance, most of them are, but the recent and extremely good Cuir Cannage (from Dior's niche extension), gives me some confidence that it won't be long before designer perfume houses make better things. It's one of the best fragrances of any kind that I've smelled in a long time. It actually possesses the genius of compositional balance ! Narciso (2014) is also excellent, and I'm sure there are others, but right now it's all about hygienic disinfectants and bon bons. Anti-intellectualism and the heavy demand for fresh mediocrity are getting more than they can eat. And I totally disagree with the idea that there is a lot to choose from in designer, niche, artisanal, whatever. There are a lot of interesting accords in niche, but there are very few genuinely great fragrances.

..................................................................

Great insightful read, thanks. The piper plays the tune as always.

I love Cuir Cannage also, but then they dump Sauvage on us with it's huge marketing campaign. It's just patronising.

 

[Kaern]

Every now and then I receive samples of new women's scents in the post, they all smell pretty much the same and awful to me. Someone must buy all that stuff though.

Yes- you are right , usually great big screechy synthetic florals with absolutely no finesse.

Whatever happened to the likes of Nu by Yves St Laurent and that isn't even that old!

 

[Bavard]

Probably not yet in sales, but that may come. Even Guerlain and Dior have bypassed creativity with Ideal and Sauvage imo.

I'm now looking back at Attitude with great fondness.

It's all, vintage, vintage, vintage now.

Discuss at will

I have little to add. You said it well.

 

[Bavard]

I agree:

Good thread. Smoke and mirrors is dispersed to make consumers think that because a fragrance is expensive with a fancy bottle, that it is better than the masterpieces that got folks started in this hobby in the first place.

My experience is from ordering samples, and liking most of the older stuff, say pre-2000 (maybe over half), and much less of the newer stuff (around 10 percent); and then finding the newer stuff costs more.

Target every layer/segment of customers to get the money.

A big yes to this! I'm ready to part with money for good perfume.

 

[rulopbo]

Agree that Sauvage and Ideal will not sell well in the future with the second round owners... They dont smell that good for a re purshace...

 

[pluran]

Great insightful read, thanks. The piper plays the tune as always.

I love Cuir Cannage also, but then they dump Sauvage on us with it's huge marketing campaign. It's just patronising.

Francois Demachy must be be wondering what the hell he's doing. All that talent, twenty years at Chanel working as Jacques Polge's right-hand man, probably had more to do with creating Egoiste and Antaeus than Jacques Polge did. Hopefully he has some time to work on something great while making all the detritus. Overall he's done an amazing job at Dior.

Cuir Cannage came out of nowhere. It's a great one. Owes most everything to two fragrances from the 1920's.

And, yeah, hundreds of good designer fragrances up to the mid-nineties, a few after that. Fragrances that in many aspects contained much better ingredients than are used in current niche. Most people know nothing about them, nor have the curiosity to know. These are the fragrances that most niche fragrances are using as models and usually don't do it as well or any better. Hard to get any clarity on the contrast between then and now. Guerlain sucks right now. Wasser must be ashamed. No amount of money can keep an artist from doing what he really wants to do. Maybe I don't understand perfumers.

I send a lot of emails to perfume houses and perfume companies (Givaudan, Firmenich, etc). They need to hear what more people think !

 

[Kaern]

Francois Demachy must be be wondering what the hell he's doing. All that talent, twenty years at Chanel working as Jacques Polge's right-hand man, probably had more to do with creating Egoiste and Antaeus than Jacques Polge did. Hopefully he has some time to work on something great while making all the detritus. Overall he's done an amazing job at Dior.

Cuir Cannage came out of nowhere. It's a great one. Owes most everything to two fragrances from the 1920's.

And, yeah, hundreds of good designer fragrances up to the mid-nineties, a few after that. Fragrances that in many aspects contained much better ingredients than are used in current niche. Most people know nothing about them, nor have the curiosity to know. These are the fragrances that most niche fragrances are using as models and usually don't do it as well or any better. Hard to get any clarity on the contrast between then and now. Guerlain sucks right now. Wasser must be ashamed. No amount of money can keep an artist from doing what he really wants to do. Maybe I don't understand perfumers.

I send a lot of emails to perfume houses and perfume companies (Givaudan, Firmenich, etc). They need to hear what more people think !

Yes -I can imagine Demachy hearing the brief for Sauvage and inwardly crying. I don't blame perfumers really. Antoine Lie created at least 2 of the Puredistance range and taken on some rubbish also.
Mark Buxton produced a range of his own, which was pretty much roundly slated but has produced some beauties in the past with very little money for other houses.
In the eighties and nineties, I seem to remember being almost spoilt for choice especially when the Houses cottoned on that men were a new keen market waiting to be mined

 

[Sniffers]

sorry...honestly don't mean to offend anybody...remember...each to his own taste....just like any " art"...i'm sure there's paintings, music and food that I may like that you would find horrendous...
with that in mind I do try...I stop in Sephora and Ulta and sample the new offerings and I rarely find anything that smells good anymore...again...IMHO...Sauvage, Eros, Invictus, etc... all make me sad with how horrible they smell...even gifted a 3/4 full bottle of Versace pour Homme to someone at work cause I just couldn't stand it anymore...

even so called niche and indie have their share of horrible releases...again..IMHO...as much as I love Amouage and have a lot of bottles in my wardrobe I could not believe how nasty Sunshine Man smelled to my nose...

I don't think the branding of designer, niche or indie can be generalized...you have to sample and just find what pleases you...

for the most part though I do find myself searching out classic vintages more and finding more obscure releases that blow me away...currently one of these is April Aromatics...found 4 of their fragrances worthy to me of a full bottle...

 

[TurnerIII]

The problem is the masses want to believe - not think.

One case in point - the Universities in the US - once critical thinking, and differences of opinions was the point....

(look at all sorts of topics .. faux science etc...)

Its the new world order - and historically has lead to really bad places

 

[Mythrol]

Mainstream will never end. It will evolve over time and change, but never end. That would be like saying Pop Music is ending.

If I had to guess what will be the new mainstream it would be niche. I just was talking to a sales associate at Sephoria and they were telling me how they were pushing out old 'standard' fragrances for more niche houses. They already carry Atelier Cologne as well as many lines people might consider niche. The SA I spoke with was telling me they have a new initiative this year where they will be phasing out more common lines that can be found at other department stores.

That is the direction mainstream is going to go. But there will always be "pop" fragrances.

 

[DuNezDeBuzier]

So... what, exactly, is meant by the term 'mainstream'?

I'll tell you where my mind goes: to the FIFIs. It's the first award I was ever aware of related to the fragrance industry, and wikipedia says it's the "most prominent and prestigious celebratory event of the fragrance industry", so it's just gotta be as good as any an indicator of what is in the mainstream, no? Especially the broad/popular appeal category. I don't think BNrs swim much in the mainstream.

{from wikipedia, The FIFI Awards...}

Men's Fragrance of the Year - Luxe
2015 Dior Homme Eau for Men Christian Dior Parfums
2014 Polo Red Ralph Lauren Parfums
2013 Colonia Intensa Oud Aqua Di Parma
2012 Gucci Guilty Pour Homme Gucci
2011 Bleu de Chanel Chanel
2010 Grey Vetiver Tom Ford Beauty
2009 Burberry the Beat for Men P&G Prestige Products Inc
2008 Light Blue Dolce & Gabbana[1]
2007 1. Terre D'hermès, 2. Unforgivable by Sean John 1. Hermès, 2. Sean John Fragrances/Estée Lauder
2006 Armani Code Pour Homme Giorgio Armani
2005 Burberry Brit for Men Cosmopolitan Cosmetics/Burberry Fragrance
2004 Higher Energy Dior
2003 Boss in Motion Hugo Boss
2002 Higher Dior
2001 For Men Paul Smith
2000 Allure Home Chanel
1999 Emporio He Giorgio Armani
1998 A Men Thierry Mugler
1997 Tommy Tommy Hilfiger
1996 cK one Calvin Klein
1995 Havana Aramis
1994 Safari for Men Ralph Lauren
1993 Heritage Guerlain
1992 Égoïste Chanel
1991 Lagerfeld Photo Parfums Lagerfeld
1990 Tiffany for Men Tiffany & Company
1989 Jazz Yves Saint Laurent
1988 Bijan for Men Bijan Fragrances
1987 Obsession for Men Calvin Klein Cosmetics
1986 Perry Ellis Parfums Stern
1985 Drakkar Noir Guy Laroche
1984 Halston 101 Halston Fragrances
1983 J.H.L. Aramis
1982 Kouros Yves Saint Laurent
1981 Oscar De La Renta Pour Lui Oscar de la Renta
1980 Lamborghini Parfums Lamborghini
1979 Polo Warner/Lauren
1978 Devin Aramis
1977 Halston Halston Fragrances
1976 Grey Flannel Geoffrey Beene
1975 Paco Pour Homme Paco Rabanne
1974 YSL for Men Yves Saint Laurent

Men's Fragrance of the Year - Nouveau Niche
2015 Tom Ford Mandarino di Amalfi Tom Ford Beauty
2014 Tom Ford Rive D'Ambre Tom Ford Beauty
2013 Tom Ford Noir Tom Ford Beauty
2012 Tom Ford Jasmin Rouge - Private Blend Tom Ford Beauty
2011 Tom Ford Azure Lime Tom Ford Beauty
2010 Bond No.9 Brooklyn Bond No.9 New York
2009 Burberry the Beat for Men Inter Parfums.
2008 Armani Privé Vetiver Babylone Giorgio Armani Beauty[1]
2007 Viktor & Rolf Antidote L'Oréal USA
2006 Armani Privé (Ambre Soie/Bois D'encens/Eau De Jade/Pierre De Lune) Giorgio Armani Parfums
2005 Paul Smith London for Men Cosmopolitan Cosmetics/Inter Parfums
2004 Purple Label Ralph Lauren Fragrances
2003 Marc Jacobs Men American Designer Fragrances LLC, Division of Parfums Givenchy, Inc.
2002 Higher Christian Dior Perfumes
2001 Gucci Rush for Men Intercosmetics - Gucci Parfums
2000 Ralph Lauren Romance Men Ralph Lauren Fragrances
1999 Allure Homme Chanel
1998 Acqua Di Gio Pour Homme European Designer Fragrance Division, Cosmair
1997 Michael Jordan Cologne Bijan Fragrances
1996 Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger Aramis
1995 Egoiste Platinum Chanel
1994 Escape for Men Calvin Klein Cosmetics
1993 Safari for Men Ralph Lauren Fragrances
1992 Davidoff Cool Water Lancaster Group USA
1991 Ricci-Club Parfums Nina Ricci
1990 Eternity for Men Calvin Klein Cosmetics
1989 Boss Hugo Boss, Prestige Fragrances
1988 Metropolis Estée Lauder

Men's Fragrance of the Year - Broad Appeal (Popular Appeal)
Year Fragrance Company
2013 James Bond 007 P&G Prestige Products
2012 Curve Appeal for men Elizabeth Arden
2011 Avon Hervé Léger Homme Avon Products
2010 Seduction in Black Antonio Banderas – Puig USA, Inc.
2009 McGraw by Tim McGraw Coty Inc.
2008 Intimately Beckham Men Coty Inc.[1]
2007 Antonio Antonio Banderas PUIG Beauty USA, Inc.
2006 Stetson Black Coty Beauty US
2005 Spirit Antonio Banderas PUIG Fragrances & Personal Care, Inc.
2004 Adidas Adrenaline Man Coty Beauty US
2003 Club Med My Ocean for Him Coty Beauty US
2002 Adidas Team Coty US
2001 Aspen Discovery Coty US
2000 Adidas Moves Coty US
1999 Stetson Country Coty US
1998 Avatar Coty US
1997 Raw Vanilla for Men Coty
1996 1. Hugo by Hugo Boss, 2. Banana Republic M 1. Giorgio Beverly Hills, 2. Banana Republic
1995 1. CK One, 2. Brut Actif Blue 1. Calvin Klein Cosmetics, 2. Fabergé
1994 Stetson Sierra Coty
1993 Gravity Coty
1992 Polo Crest Ralph Lauren Fragrances
1991 1. Navy, 2. California for Men 1. Procter & Gamble Noxell Division, 2. Max Factor
1990 Aspen Quintessence
1989 Hero Prince Matchabelli
1988 Iron Coty
1987 Pierre Cardin Man's Musk Pierre Cardin
1986 Carrington Charles of the Ritz
1985 Feraud Pour Homme Avon Products
1984 Gambler Jovan
1983 Turbo Fabergé
1982 Stetson Coty
1981 Matchabelli Prince Matchabelli
1980 Chaps Warner Western
1979 Sport Scent for Men Jovan
1978 Man Jovan
1977 Macho Fabergé
1976 Chaz Revlon

Men's Fragrance of the Year - Private Label/Direct Sell
Year Fragrance Company
2012 Comme une Evidence Green Yves Rocher North America Inc.
2011
2010 Patrick Dempsey 2 Avon Products, Inc.
2009
2008 Derek Jeter Driven Black Avon Products, Inc.[1]
2007 Banana Republic Black Walnut Inter Parfums USA
2006 Today. Tomorrow. Always for Men Avon Products
2005 Liquid Karl by Karl Lagerfeld for H&M Unilever Cosmetics International
2004 Very Sexy for Him² Victoria's Secret Beauty
2002 Very Sexy for Him Victoria's Secret Beauty
2000 Modern for Men Banana Republic
1998 Blue No. 655 for Him The Gap, Inc.

my color scheme:
-have no motivation to even smell
-smelled, but did not pursue
-owned and used to wear back in the day; had enough of it though
-owned it; enjoyed it just fine, but sold it for whatever reason
-own it and wear it currently

 

[Dorje123]

IDK, hard to say what's change of taste and nostalgia vs any objective truth... I've purchased at least 10 or so older/vintage fragrances that have been discussed here and have been disappointed with all of them, some are Kouros, Ho Hang, Vermeil, Montana, Bugatti, Patou PH, etc.. imo they are just as bad (or pretty close) as today's designer fragrances although much different in style.

 

[Bigsly]

Well, I've said this before, but...

1. Try to get your vintage now, because prices can shoot through the roof, as has happened may times in these kinds of collectibles markets (and in this one, the item gets used up, making them rarer than in other markets over time). Use a free site like Stuff Alert to know when something you want gets listed on ebay.

2. Designers are basically dreck these days (generally-speaking, of course), and this has led me to buy scents like some of the Playboys, which are great value for the money (I wait for bargains). But there's something else here, which is that these are often "watered-down" versions of popular designers, meaning I can wear them because they don't become cloying, as so many recent designers do!

3. I've got more vintage than I can ever use, but some of the cheaper ones are actually quite good, such as Elvis Cologne and Starring for Men. These are good for "vintage newbies," or you can go to the Crystal Flacon site to obtain samples of an assortment of different ones, the point being is that it can be very cheap to "ease your way into it."

4. In general, those who have criticized vintage scents have never made any sense to me. A 100 ml bottle would last me many years, so I'm supposed to buy a new designer or reformulated garbage instead because it won't last forever (that's one argument I've heard)? Seriously, if you don't like vintage, that's fine with me, but you don't have to tell us that in every thread about vintage! If you want to speak about specific perceptions, that could be useful, but to hear negative emotions or silly arguments against vintage is inappropriate, IMO.

5. It seems that the "rage" now is to create an "exclusive" line. Even Perry Ellis did this! So, that is for the aficionados, apparently. If you are one, and you buy the stuff for the "masses," then perhaps you are not being realistic.

 

[Kaern]

DNDB -- Amazing post, must have taken you ages to collate

But really, I take no notice of these awards -- I mean, who votes? Any backhanders flying about?

Higher by Dior -- Mens fragrance of the Year 2002? I think that would only be true if it was the only one to choose from
Tom Ford -- best niche for the last 5 years running? Come on

Actually, I'm not quite sure what stance you are taking with this topic, but Cheers anyway :thumbsup:

 

[drseid]

Unfortunately, most (almost all, really) of the "good stuff" coming from designers is in the limited distribution realm. I'll put many of the releases from Zegna in their superb smelling limited distribution line (Javanese Patchouli in particular), the couple truly great (and only) offerings by the very small designer Anat Fritz (Tzora and Classical) and the fabulous re-release from Richard James (Savile Row), not to mention a few limited distribution offerings from Chanel and YSL right alongside my favorites from the relatively distant past. Unfortunately, on the more mainstream end, indeed when I sniff recent dreck like Invictus, Sauvage, Polo Red, Versace (anything), etc. it sometimes is hard to be optimistic for the future. There are a few bright spots however, as Montana continues to release great stuff at reasonable prices like their amazing Montana Black Edition from a couple years back. That said, for every Montana, there are 1000 Invictus-like disasters, sadly.

 

[Diamondflame]

David is spot on with his comment on 'commoditization' of fragrance. As cynical as it sounds, it's just business. Customers have over the years been conditioned to accept a new normal for 'quality' (mediocrity). The average customer's fragrance buying decision is easily influenced. Topnotes form a small part of a fragrance appeal while brand prestige, peer approval, star endorsements, etc. account for the rest. Big designer houses with big marketing budgets can fund all the marketing needed to push sales. Indie, artisanal and smaller niche companies don't have that luxury. To get the same quality we are used to from the big design houses, it seems we have to pay a lot more for their upper tier exclusive lines.