Looking for Top Notes

Jan 20, 2021
Hello!
I'm trying to create "something" about an idea, a sudden thought I had a couple of years ago. Nothing extraordinary: a smell of Vanilla, Almond and Red Berries. But something that doesn't seem like a cupcake or a candy... my thought was more sensual and feminine, but also cheerful and playful.
I'd create an Amber Accord (last April) for another experiment that in my opinion could work well, I like it a lot after so much time. I add other things for the base accord, I work a Red Berries accord... and here start the doubts... what kind of top notes? The usual Citrus (Bergamot, Tangerine, Red Orange)? Or something else as Spices? Or even more?

I work with very small quantities, all materials from Pell Wall, Perfumiarz, De Hekserij, Hermitage Oils.

Amber Accord:
Benzoin Resinoid 10% 25
Labdanum Abs 25% 8
Ethyl Vanillin 10% 5
Coumarin 10% 10
Patchouli Light 10% 15
Ambrofix 10% 17
Ambrettolide 10% 20
100

Musk Accord:
Ethylene Brassilate 10% 50
Edenolide 10% 25
Romandolide 10% 25

Base Note:
Amber Accord 50
Musk Accord 30
Heliotropex 10% 20

Red Berries Accord
Raspberry accord 10% 40
Raspberry Ketone 10% 20
Cassis Base 345B 10% 20
Mango leaf 10% 5
Damascone Delta 10% 3
Davana EO 10% 2
Strawberry glycid. 10% 5
Beta Ionone 10% 1
Cherry accord 10% 4
 

Casper_grassy

Well-known member
May 5, 2020
It’s difficult to answer because I don’t know what’s in your berry accords. Many berry materials are rather strong and can be felt at the top, so you don’t really need any citrus. That amount of d-damascone should be smelled quite easily and rather strong at the top.

If you want almond and cherry practically go hand in hand, and using bitter almond oil or benzaldehyde (both very strong) can be smelled at the top.

Also if you want vanilla, it’s probably being overpowered by the rest of the amber accord, why not lower the benzoin ambrettolide, ambrofix and patchouli, keep the e-vanillin where it’s at and add Vanillin at double the amount of the evanillin.

I would also increase the b ionone and romandolide to be used as more of a backbone of the formula for the berry like aspects to be felt throughout the fragrance.

Again without knowing what’s in thw raspberry and cherry accord that’s the most I can help with. But to answer shortly, again you don’t need what you’re calling top notes. You should already have them, and a couple of those materials are easily detectable at the top of a fragrance.
 

ScentAle

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2021
Maybe you can try to use Tree Moss Absolute? It work well also like top note, with a fresher mossy, vegetative seaweed like.
Are you Italian?
 
Jan 20, 2021
It’s difficult to answer because I don’t know what’s in your berry accords. Many berry materials are rather strong and can be felt at the top, so you don’t really need any citrus. That amount of d-damascone should be smelled quite easily and rather strong at the top.

If you want almond and cherry practically go hand in hand, and using bitter almond oil or benzaldehyde (both very strong) can be smelled at the top.

Also if you want vanilla, it’s probably being overpowered by the rest of the amber accord, why not lower the benzoin ambrettolide, ambrofix and patchouli, keep the e-vanillin where it’s at and add Vanillin at double the amount of the evanillin.

I would also increase the b ionone and romandolide to be used as more of a backbone of the formula for the berry like aspects to be felt throughout the fragrance.

Again without knowing what’s in thw raspberry and cherry accord that’s the most I can help with. But to answer shortly, again you don’t need what you’re calling top notes. You should already have them, and a couple of those materials are easily detectable at the top of a fragrance.
Thank you! I have Benzaldehyde, I'll try with it (I'd like a little bit more almond). Raspberry and Cherry accords are both from Pell Wall, both made by Chris Bartlett I think.
 

Casper_grassy

Well-known member
May 5, 2020
Thank you! I have Benzaldehyde, I'll try with it (I'd like a little bit more almond). Raspberry and Cherry accords are both from Pell Wall, both made by Chris Bartlett I think.
Ohhhhhh ok,
the cherry accord might already contain benzaldehyde.
You can try just using more of both. As I said most fruit like materials are typically strong.
I did forget to mention if you acetophenone that’s another material that can help with this direction.
 
Jan 20, 2021
Ohhhhhh ok,
the cherry accord might already contain benzaldehyde.
You can try just using more of both. As I said most fruit like materials are typically strong.
I did forget to mention if you acetophenone that’s another material that can help with this direction.
I've Acetophenone ( De Hekserij) but I never used it... I'll try instead of Benzaldehyde. Thanks.
 
Jan 20, 2021
Anche io eheh...Good to hear, from where, if I can?
Tree Moss is very different from Oak. It's more like a fresh balsamic vanilla with wet moss. A different top note too
Ciao, hello! I'm from Reggio Emilia.
Very different you say: I haven't Tree Moss, don't give me these ideas, my wallet is already crying...
 

ScentAle

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2021
Ciao, hello! I'm from Reggio Emilia.
Very different you say: I haven't Tree Moss, don't give me these ideas, my wallet is already crying...
Dannato portafoglio. How i understand this. I like so much to experiment with all the Mosses and Lichens world. And when I have curiosity, I never reach to say not.
 
Jan 20, 2021
Dannato portafoglio. How i understand this. I like so much to experiment with all the Mosses and Lichens world. And when I have curiosity, I never reach to say not.
🙂🙂 ... I like experiments too and not only for making perfumes (see my post"di presentazione", I wrote it this morning), and when I see prices... 😭😭😭, but we know, this world is not cheap. (speaking especially about naturals). Only sometime for AC or some natural.
 

ScentAle

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2021
🙂🙂 ... I like experiments too and not only for making perfumes (see my post"di presentazione", I wrote it this morning), and when I see prices... 😭😭😭, but we know, this world is not cheap. (speaking especially about naturals). Only sometime for AC or some natural.
I have many flacons just used a touch, that I would like to sell/exchange. Both for great naturals and ac too. I work with 10% usually, so many are almost full, using only a little.
 

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