- Apr 2, 2008
Ah. Apologies for missing your comment in your original post.Hello Brooks Otterlake,
I've tried Au Coeur next to LDDM, and, for me, LDDM works better. But they are both stunners, and my boyfriend prefers Au Couer. We'll probably end up owning both
Ormonde Jayne's Ambre Royal Elixir should be in the green ambre category! it is so surprising, from entrance to drydown. The Elixir version is poured at 42% and I prefer this, but maybe it's best to start with the EDP version (poured at 32%). They are usually really happy to offer 2mls samples to try out for a few days. I got the Hair Mist version, but not sure about the concept of using Hair Mist yet!
Love your username. Ken Russell is one of my favorite movie directors, so ahead of his time (and our time. They exist in their own space/time, like an alternate universe). Thank you for the reccomendation. There are some legendary, discontinued, L'Occitane fragrances out there. How hard is Ambre & Santal to find now?
Hello again Khanada-
I love your investigative approach and classifications.
Don’t have much to add, except by way of cheering you on. Have your read Elena Vosnaki’s analysis of amber? She’s always so informative:
I like to try to dissect an amber accord into its constituent parts. I enjoy labdanum, balsams, myrrh, spices, flowers, herbs and animalic elements. I require a light hand with vanilla, ethyl maltol, and sweetness in general. I do not like modern ambers where overdoses of ambroxan, Timbersilk, and other woody aromachemicals turn the drydown into an indelible sludgy monotonous drone. i feel that space and air needs to exist in between the notes, even in a heavier amber composition.
How about vintage L’Origan? I don’t think that has been mentioned yet. See if you can find a pre-Pfizer parfum—even a tiny one.
Do you think of Bal a Versailles as an animalic amber? I love BaV unreservedly, especially the parfum.
How about Tabu? This one is controversial! There is something in Tabu that makes it unwearable for me. I haven’t figured it out yet, but I keep trying vintage versions.
I admire Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche very much. The balance of incense and amber is just right, in my opinion, and it does not become too syrupy. I have these older bottles.
View attachment 130332
Again, I will pitch Sonoma Scent Studios to you, Their Amber Incense is an excellent, all natural amber.
Mugler Alien and Alien Essence Absolue are amazing ambers if you can tolerate the strong jasmine note (less prominent in the flanker). Another fragrance that is slightly similar but much less floral is Gold Incense by Mancera, which also has mind blowing performance (yes, even more so than Alien).
The best amber I have tried so far is Ryder by Ex Idolo. It's on the drier side so less cloying than most (I'm not the biggest fan of the genre due to most being too sickly for me), but still has a great 'chewy', edible texture. Amazing quality stuff.
Also, as a side note, I wouldn't bother with vintage Dior Addict as the current version is extremely well done and true to the original version. Any perceived differences in scent will be most likely due to maceration / storage. I have both a bottle from 2002 (launch year) with around 15ml left and also purchased a small bottle two years ago. Furthermore, I wouldn't classify it as an amber, but rather a floral oriental with a boozy, tangy twist. Still, one of the most underrated designer scents around and definitely worth trying.
What a terrific list, khanada! Many of my favorite ambers are already on your list or have been mentioned by others. (You can take a peak at my wardrobe collection at your leisure. :smiley
Profumum's Ambra Aurea and Fiore d'Ambra are lovely. Ambra Aurea keeps appearing on my wishlist.
I echo cazaubon's recommendation of Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe. It's unique and, to my nose, has a bit of the "space" grayspoole mentions, at least in the opening.
Anything with "Amber" in the name by Sonoma Scent Studio is terrific, as is Winter Woods. Laurie really knew her ambers and labdanum. Grayspoole is 100% right.
Here are a couple from my collection I haven't seen yet:
YSL Cinema -- a really gorgeous floral amber. I can't pick out what the exact florals are, but they aren't BIG - they're well-behaved and pretty
ELdO Divin'Enfant -- it's so well blended that it's difficult to pick out individual notes, but think orange blossom, cigarette smoke, and amber, and that gets you close
MFK Grand Soir -- a smoky, honeyed amber
Parfumerie Generale L'Ombre Fauve -- a snuggly, animalic amber; it's not anamalic in a skanky sense (at least not to me), it's more of a "furry" amber, if you know what I mean
Also, I find Montale's Patchouli Leaves to be as much about amber as it is about patchouli.
Ambra Tibet is one from Ava Luxe that I really like.
Kerosene Copper Skies is another gorgeous smoky amber, with an undertone of tar. Incredible. Trilby Lark fell for this one in Chicago.
If you can find it I love Madame X by Ava Luxe ( discontinued unfortunately) It's similar to Obsession, but more ambery, leather and not so "loud"
What about Labdanum 18 from Le Labo, I prefer this one more than Shalimar and Musc Ravageur. Its very nice.
I would love to try some Neil Morris fragrances, sometime, because I see they get much love here, on Basenotes. As with so many artisanal perfumers, I expect his line will be a deep rabbit hole. I have not spent enough time with artisanal perfumes, the sheer volume overwhelms me, and I can only hope that I live long enough to get around to exploring some.Two other ones that I recalled liking:
Neil Morris Ambra Obscura. Another resinous like amber
Aftelier Perfumes Amber Tapestry. If you don't mind ambergris this is another good amber.
Both are worth trying
I wore Amber Oud by Trussardi a lot last autumn/winter. Some say that it's too synthetic by I have to say that it's a fragrance I enjoy.
Royal Amber by S.T. Dupont is a good linear fragrance (there's not a lot of subtlety and variety in the notes) and works well when layered with other suitable fragrances. I've matched it with Dior Homme Intense for instance and I think it works.
I would love to try some Neil Morris fragrances, sometime, because I see they get much love here, on Basenotes. As with so many artisanal perfumers, I expect his line will be a deep rabbit hole. I have not spent enough time with artisanal perfumes, the sheer volume overwhelms me, and I can only hope that I live long enough to get around to exploring some.
Also, I adore ambergris! My Amouage Amber Attar is like ambergris from heaven. Have you tried it?
Also, I tried Fiore d’Ambre, and I died. Thank you guys, so much for the suggestion!
I can also recommend Azzaro pour Homme Amber Fever. It has been recently discontinued but is still available at some online retailers at a reasonable price.
It's quite a simple fragrance, combining amber with sage and cocoa, but I really like it.
Amber Mystique Estee Lauder --a bold amber
Attache Moi ICONOFly --this is a very nice one
I recommend Yves Rocher's and Etro's ambers.
Can you tell me a little more about Amber Mystique? I love Estée Lauder, especially their classic fragrances from the 50s through the 70s, and Amber Mystique has intrigued me. However, I do not like “woody ambers,” which are mostly made of Norlimbal (I believe that is how you spell it), and I struggle with that, it smells like rubbing alcohol and feels like chewing on tinfoil. It is unfortunately overused in perfume these days, I suppose, because it projects like a beast. Does Amber Mystique have it? I would have jumped on it a while ago, if it did not.
Attaché Moi and ICONOfly are both new names for me! Tell me more, please!
I've attached the Fragantica site reviews so you can see what other people are saying as well.
EL Amber Mystique was made for the Middle Eastern market. I find it incense-y, smoke-y and it dries down to a very pretty woody, rosy, ambery scent--but it is a bit "forward" so I see it better suited to the cold weather than the hot (hence why I have not worn it much). It's unisex and has great longevity.
Here"s the link: https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Est-e-Lauder/Amber-Mystique-17573.html
The Attache-Moi is a more refined, sweeter more gentle amber, floral scent. I like it very much and wear it fairly often.From what you say above, I think this is more of what you are looking for: https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/ICONOfly/Attache-Moi-11128.html
+1 Etro Ambra : reference amber, not too sweet, with an fresh, green, aromatic pelargonium topnote. Wearable in summer, even. Quite good longevity.