Looking for the Best Classic Amber Perfumes: Help!

Kaern

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 2, 2008
Hello, freewheelingvagabond,

Ambra Mediterranea hadn't even crossed my mind. Thank you for the reccommendation. I'm adding it to the test list.

But it is on your list to test -- 3rd from bottom

One I can't see is the exquisite L'Ambre de Carthage by Isabey
 

Nastka

Basenotes Dependent
Mar 6, 2011
Mugler Alien and Alien Essence Absolue are amazing ambers if you can tolerate the strong jasmine note (less prominent in the flanker). Another fragrance that is slightly similar but much less floral is Gold Incense by Mancera, which also has mind blowing performance (yes, even more so than Alien).

The best amber I have tried so far is Ryder by Ex Idolo. It's on the drier side so less cloying than most (I'm not the biggest fan of the genre due to most being too sickly for me), but still has a great 'chewy', edible texture. Amazing quality stuff.

Also, as a side note, I wouldn't bother with vintage Dior Addict as the current version is extremely well done and true to the original version. Any perceived differences in scent will be most likely due to maceration / storage. I have both a bottle from 2002 (launch year) with around 15ml left and also purchased a small bottle two years ago. Furthermore, I wouldn't classify it as an amber, but rather a floral oriental with a boozy, tangy twist. Still, one of the most underrated designer scents around and definitely worth trying.
 
P

piney

Guest
What about Labdanum 18 from Le Labo, I prefer this one more than Shalimar and Musc Ravageur. Its very nice.
 

ExtremeK

Some of my paths in life are dirt
Basenotes Plus
Jul 5, 2010
What a terrific list, khanada! Many of my favorite ambers are already on your list or have been mentioned by others. (You can take a peak at my wardrobe collection at your leisure. :smiley:)

Profumum's Ambra Aurea and Fiore d'Ambra are lovely. Ambra Aurea keeps appearing on my wishlist.
I echo cazaubon's recommendation of Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe. It's unique and, to my nose, has a bit of the "space" grayspoole mentions, at least in the opening.
Anything with "Amber" in the name by Sonoma Scent Studio is terrific, as is Winter Woods. Laurie really knew her ambers and labdanum. Grayspoole is 100% right.


Here are a couple from my collection I haven't seen yet:
YSL Cinema -- a really gorgeous floral amber. I can't pick out what the exact florals are, but they aren't BIG - they're well-behaved and pretty
ELdO Divin'Enfant -- it's so well blended that it's difficult to pick out individual notes, but think orange blossom, cigarette smoke, and amber, and that gets you close
MFK Grand Soir -- a smoky, honeyed amber
Parfumerie Generale L'Ombre Fauve -- a snuggly, animalic amber; it's not anamalic in a skanky sense (at least not to me), it's more of a "furry" amber, if you know what I mean

Also, I find Montale's Patchouli Leaves to be as much about amber as it is about patchouli.

Ambra Tibet is one from Ava Luxe that I really like.

Kerosene Copper Skies is another gorgeous smoky amber, with an undertone of tar. Incredible. Trilby Lark fell for this one in Chicago.
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
Ormonde Jayne's Ambre Royal Elixir should be in the green ambre category! it is so surprising, from entrance to drydown. The Elixir version is poured at 42% and I prefer this, but maybe it's best to start with the EDP version (poured at 32%). They are usually really happy to offer 2mls samples to try out for a few days. I got the Hair Mist version, but not sure about the concept of using Hair Mist yet!

Hello Tamasin,

I've been, very slowly, over several years, been working my way through Ormonde Jayne. So far, I have loved everything I"ve tried (I think this includes,Ormande Woman, Ta'If, Champaca, Tiare, Tolu, and maybe a couple of others. Each has something special to reccomend it. So far, Tolu and Woman are the two that I think I would make the best use of (Tolu is like a sort of modern Youth Dew, very cool indeed, and Ormonde Woman is also great, sort of like Chanel Sycamore, but with the house's trademark style, and that black herbal note that I think is burdock. The florals are all beautiful, too. I've been testing Ta'If lately. I don't know which concentration Luckyscent sent me. I doubt it is the extrait (even though that's what I ordered). I think I would probably like it best, if I can figure out how to get a sample of it, but maybe it's better than I can't find any samples, because it is pretty costly stuff, and I need another expensive item on my wishlist, like I need a hole in my head :).

I'm adding Ambre Royal Elixir to the testlist. It's going to be Amberama in our house in a couple of months!
 

Ken_Russell

Basenotes Institution
Jan 21, 2006
Hi Ken_Russell!

Love your username. Ken Russell is one of my favorite movie directors, so ahead of his time (and our time. They exist in their own space/time, like an alternate universe). Thank you for the reccomendation. There are some legendary, discontinued, L'Occitane fragrances out there. How hard is Ambre & Santal to find now?


With apologies to reply only now, thank you so much for your reply and for letting me now about mutual interests regarding cinema. In

my country at least, all authorized (not grey market but limited to perfumeries and pharmacies/drugstores that are already official l'Occitane resellers) distributors of l'Occitane, both websites and physical stores still have this fragrance quite easily in stock, at normal rather than overvalued prices.

And also quite confident that this tendency about the availability of Ambre & Santal is not limited alone to the country nor even continent do live in, though these details might change overnight with no or at least little further notice.
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
Hello again Khanada-

I love your investigative approach and classifications.

Don’t have much to add, except by way of cheering you on. Have your read Elena Vosnaki’s analysis of amber? She’s always so informative:

http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2006/11/wonders-of-amber.html

I like to try to dissect an amber accord into its constituent parts. I enjoy labdanum, balsams, myrrh, spices, flowers, herbs and animalic elements. I require a light hand with vanilla, ethyl maltol, and sweetness in general. I do not like modern ambers where overdoses of ambroxan, Timbersilk, and other woody aromachemicals turn the drydown into an indelible sludgy monotonous drone. i feel that space and air needs to exist in between the notes, even in a heavier amber composition.

How about vintage L’Origan? I don’t think that has been mentioned yet. See if you can find a pre-Pfizer parfum—even a tiny one.

Do you think of Bal a Versailles as an animalic amber? I love BaV unreservedly, especially the parfum.

How about Tabu? This one is controversial! There is something in Tabu that makes it unwearable for me. I haven’t figured it out yet, but I keep trying vintage versions.

I admire Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche very much. The balance of incense and amber is just right, in my opinion, and it does not become too syrupy. I have these older bottles.

View attachment 130332


Again, I will pitch Sonoma Scent Studios to you, Their Amber Incense is an excellent, all natural amber.

Hello, Grayspoole, again,

Thank you! I love reading about perfume, almost as much as I enjoy wearing it. so I have picked up some vocabulary along the way. I like to think that I know what I'm doing, but it's hard to know if I'm using the right words for the right things, or if I'm classifying what I smell in a way that makes sense. It's nice to have validation :)

For the most part, I agree with your amber preferences. When I want vanilla, I wear vanilla. When I want amber, I want some herbs, and some spices, and a lot of resins/balsams. I love animalics, too, although I don't enjoy the "guy pee" smell, that I have found in some modern, amber, or amberesque, perfumes. I can tolerate some modern materials, in small doses, when I think they add something interesting to a perfume. But some of them are unpleasantly metallic, or they smell like denatured alcohol, or they give me awful headaches. Lately (relatively lately, as I haven't been out shopping since around Christmas), I noticed that high end department stores' perfume areas reek of whatever those materials are, and it is very hard to smell anything else. I suppose, that's what people, with that kind of money, are willing to pay for. It's driving further into the arms of vintage and small production niche.

L'Origan is beautiful. I haven't smelled it in a long time, and I really should do so, again. I tend to think of Bal a Versailles as orange blossom with an amber base--a very divaesque floriental, very regal, and also kind of naughty. I like both old and new versions. I've been considering picking up some vintage parfum, sometime before fall hits. I'm not afraid to wear an assertive perfume in the summer (especially now, when we are all kind of stuck inside), at all. And I don't have to calibrate for the office, any time in the forseeable future. I can't remember the last time that I smelled Tabu. It was probably sometime in the 1980s, when I was in my teens. I can't remember much about it.

I thought Ambre Fetiche was discontinued. Is it back? I suppose, I could just go look on my own. I hear and read wonderful things about it.
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
Mugler Alien and Alien Essence Absolue are amazing ambers if you can tolerate the strong jasmine note (less prominent in the flanker). Another fragrance that is slightly similar but much less floral is Gold Incense by Mancera, which also has mind blowing performance (yes, even more so than Alien).

The best amber I have tried so far is Ryder by Ex Idolo. It's on the drier side so less cloying than most (I'm not the biggest fan of the genre due to most being too sickly for me), but still has a great 'chewy', edible texture. Amazing quality stuff.

Also, as a side note, I wouldn't bother with vintage Dior Addict as the current version is extremely well done and true to the original version. Any perceived differences in scent will be most likely due to maceration / storage. I have both a bottle from 2002 (launch year) with around 15ml left and also purchased a small bottle two years ago. Furthermore, I wouldn't classify it as an amber, but rather a floral oriental with a boozy, tangy twist. Still, one of the most underrated designer scents around and definitely worth trying.

Hello, Nastka,

I don't really consider Alien an amber. To me, it's a massive jasmine bomb from outer space. And I love it! I also have Alien Absolu, and I almost put it on that list of things I alreay own, in my first post, I think it counts as a floral amber, a gourmand (to some degree), and also a weird, abstract amber. I haven't met an Alien flanker I didn't like. I don't know why I don't own more of them. I tried Alien Fusion last night, and it's already on my buy list; I also really want at least one of the solar/summer variants. That's a discussion for a different thread. Maybe I'll post something about that . . . I just don't want too many threads I started, spooling out in all directions, because it gets hard to keep up with them all, and I want to respond to people who are nice enough to offer help :)

I completely forgot about Ryder! I love 33, have been planning to purchase it for I don't know how long now (I even forgot to mention it in the post I started about roses. D'oh!

Good to know, about Dior Addict. Prices for vintage, are becoming unconscionable. It has been, kind of, on the back burner on my purchase list. I know my wish list is ridiculous. I keep it that way, because I never know what mood I will be in, when my perfume budget reaches critical mass.
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
What a terrific list, khanada! Many of my favorite ambers are already on your list or have been mentioned by others. (You can take a peak at my wardrobe collection at your leisure. :smiley:)

Profumum's Ambra Aurea and Fiore d'Ambra are lovely. Ambra Aurea keeps appearing on my wishlist.
I echo cazaubon's recommendation of Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe. It's unique and, to my nose, has a bit of the "space" grayspoole mentions, at least in the opening.
Anything with "Amber" in the name by Sonoma Scent Studio is terrific, as is Winter Woods. Laurie really knew her ambers and labdanum. Grayspoole is 100% right.


Here are a couple from my collection I haven't seen yet:
YSL Cinema -- a really gorgeous floral amber. I can't pick out what the exact florals are, but they aren't BIG - they're well-behaved and pretty
ELdO Divin'Enfant -- it's so well blended that it's difficult to pick out individual notes, but think orange blossom, cigarette smoke, and amber, and that gets you close
MFK Grand Soir -- a smoky, honeyed amber
Parfumerie Generale L'Ombre Fauve -- a snuggly, animalic amber; it's not anamalic in a skanky sense (at least not to me), it's more of a "furry" amber, if you know what I mean

Also, I find Montale's Patchouli Leaves to be as much about amber as it is about patchouli.

Ambra Tibet is one from Ava Luxe that I really like.

Kerosene Copper Skies is another gorgeous smoky amber, with an undertone of tar. Incredible. Trilby Lark fell for this one in Chicago.

Hello, again, ExtremeK,

I love Cinema! I thought it was on my wardrobe list, but your post made me realize, that I didn't have it on there, for some reason. My perfume collection is spread across two homes; the one we're living in at the moment, and our apartment in the city, where we stay, when my boyfriend is working there. We have mostly decamped to our "country house," because my day job, which is seasonal, usually keeps us out here during the warmer months, and also because the population density here is safer, for now.

I know I've smelled Ambre Russe before, but it has been several years, and I can't remember if I actually passed on it, or intended to buy it, or what exactly happened there. One reason I joined Basenotes, was so I could remember what I've tried, and when. I love the "testing/tried" feature. Fragrantica doesn't have anything like that, and sampling is such an important part of my perfume hobby. I'm working my way through ELDO, and Divin'Enfant sounds just great. (Is it one of those kind of orangesicle fragrances? I love those). Grand Soir didn't do it for me, tbh--I get what MFK is doing , there, and I understand its appeal, but that alcohol not in the base, and its metallic quality, got to me. It smells great on my boyfriend, though; he wears those modern woody amber-based perfumes really well. PG is a house that I want to really dig into next fall, because it looks like at least half of its offerings are snuggly, comfort scents. I have Cadjmere and I adore it; I haven't found a spice bomb quite like it anywehere else.

I have a sample of Patchouli Leaves, and i don't remember smelling amber there, but I'll try it again, and look for the amber.

Ava Luxe has some beautiful perfumes. I feel a little overwhelmed when I look at their website, which often happens when I consider artisinal perfumers' sites. Now, you have me curious about Ambre Tibet. Goodness, my test list is getting longer and longer.
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
If you can find it I love Madame X by Ava Luxe ( discontinued unfortunately) It's similar to Obsession, but more ambery, leather and not so "loud"

Madame X will probably be on my test/wishlist for the rest of my life. I, occasionally, hear a rumor, that it is coming back. I wish it would. But I am not holding my breath . . . .
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
What about Labdanum 18 from Le Labo, I prefer this one more than Shalimar and Musc Ravageur. Its very nice.

You're right! I really should try it. I love Labdanum anyway, and I believe Maurice Roucel did it, and I love Musc Ravageur and its relatives (I'm wearing Fleur de Corail even as I write this).
 
Aug 6, 2020
What a great list!

As for suggestions, I am currently in total love with Glossier You (*if* it's aged a bit). The wax compact I had for about a year aged to a beautiful golden-amber-like scent. I truly never want to smell like anything else now. However, I wanted some variety but in the same scent family & was given these suggestions:
1. Juliette Has A Gun (the supercharged version)
2. Narciso Rodriguez for Her Eau de Parfum
3. Diptyque Fleur de Peau Eau de Parfum

I have ordered a sample of Juliette and am about to get a sample of the Narciso.

What I would love is suggestions of more affordable scents like these.
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
Hello everyone, again,

Just a quick update on how my testing, trying, and buying has gone, so far. I found a bottle of MPG Ambre Precieux for a very, very nice price—so thrilling that it will finally be mine (and in the old formula too!) I can’t wait. It can’t get here soon enough. Also, I tried Fiore d’Ambre, and I died. Thank you guys, so much for the suggestion! I’m placing an order from Essenza-Nobile, soon, and I shall be purchasing a FB soon. Luckyscent was out of Ambra Mediterranea when I placed my last sample order. I am going to keep trying. B

I also added a few more ambers to the original list I made in the first post, notably Parfum d’Empire’s Ambre Russe. How could I have forgotten it? It’s so mind-bendingly gorgeous—that boozy, black incense, and champagne, and dried fruit. Also, I somehow left out Tom Ford’s Ambre Absolute and Rive d’Ambre. I shall be acquiring a large decant of Absolute, I think, and I have a small decant of Rive on the way, which could lead to a larger decant. I also revisited Ambre Sultan (I forgot how great it is) and Ambre 114, and . . . I think I want them both.

My username should probably have been Amberama . . . wish I’d thought of that . . . .
 

saminlondon

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 25, 2011
Dior Mitzah would be right up your street if you could get hold of some to sample! Warm, spicy, plenty of resinous goodness.
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
Two other ones that I recalled liking:

Neil Morris Ambra Obscura. Another resinous like amber

Aftelier Perfumes Amber Tapestry. If you don't mind ambergris this is another good amber.

Both are worth trying
I would love to try some Neil Morris fragrances, sometime, because I see they get much love here, on Basenotes. As with so many artisanal perfumers, I expect his line will be a deep rabbit hole. I have not spent enough time with artisanal perfumes, the sheer volume overwhelms me, and I can only hope that I live long enough to get around to exploring some.

Also, I adore ambergris! My Amouage Amber Attar is like ambergris from heaven. Have you tried it?
 
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tjr

New member
Jun 6, 2020
I wore Amber Oud by Trussardi a lot last autumn/winter. Some say that it's too synthetic by I have to say that it's a fragrance I enjoy.

Royal Amber by S.T. Dupont is a good linear fragrance (there's not a lot of subtlety and variety in the notes) and works well when layered with other suitable fragrances. I've matched it with Dior Homme Intense for instance and I think it works.
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
I wore Amber Oud by Trussardi a lot last autumn/winter. Some say that it's too synthetic by I have to say that it's a fragrance I enjoy.

Royal Amber by S.T. Dupont is a good linear fragrance (there's not a lot of subtlety and variety in the notes) and works well when layered with other suitable fragrances. I've matched it with Dior Homme Intense for instance and I think it works.

Interesting!! I haven’t smelled anything from Trussardi, aside from the classic vintage feminine. I have the ST DuPont on my “try” list, which I am grinding on, now, and probably for the rest of the year. I don’t mind linear, if the perfume smells good . . .
 

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
I would love to try some Neil Morris fragrances, sometime, because I see they get much love here, on Basenotes. As with so many artisanal perfumers, I expect his line will be a deep rabbit hole. I have not spent enough time with artisanal perfumes, the sheer volume overwhelms me, and I can only hope that I live long enough to get around to exploring some.

Also, I adore ambergris! My Amouage Amber Attar is like ambergris from heaven. Have you tried it?

Yes Neil Morris has many many fragrances. I myself tried only a few dozen and that doesn't make a dent into Neil's vast collection. In fact many of his releases, there's no information available online. You would have to communicated him by email or phone to get access to them.

http://www.basenotes.net/threads/408615-Let-s-talk-about-Neil-Morris/page5

Never tried Amouage Amber Attar. I'd be open to trying it. Perhaps a swap can be arranged, send me a PM :)
 

ExtremeK

Some of my paths in life are dirt
Basenotes Plus
Jul 5, 2010
Also, I tried Fiore d’Ambre, and I died. Thank you guys, so much for the suggestion!

YAY! I'm so glad you enjoyed Fiore d'Ambra. Profumum doesn't seem to get a lot of play on Basenotes. I know foxbins has Acqua Viva, and I'm pretty sure Roberto (who posts in the FFD SotD thread) has a couple. I have 5 bottles and really want 2 or 3 more, including Fiore d'Ambra. But the line is really impressive and just well done.

What about FdA spoke to you? I love it because it's a drier, less sweet amber than others in my collection and because both spices and herbs get some play; usually, it's one or the other in a fragrance. I also love that I'm not overwhelmed by smoke -- instead, it's a suggestive smoke, sort of a trail that catches you and leads you along. Maybe that's what behind the "opium" note.
 

tjr

New member
Jun 6, 2020
I can also recommend Azzaro pour Homme Amber Fever. It has been recently discontinued but is still available at some online retailers at a reasonable price.

It's quite a simple fragrance, combining amber with sage and cocoa, but I really like it.
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
I can also recommend Azzaro pour Homme Amber Fever. It has been recently discontinued but is still available at some online retailers at a reasonable price.

It's quite a simple fragrance, combining amber with sage and cocoa, but I really like it.

Thanks for the suggestion. This one is not on my radar, and, it sounds really nice. Since it is “pour Homme,” as they say, would you describe it as more masculine, or unisex? Sometimes sage, in particular, can give a fragrance a distinctly masculine edge. I wear some classic masculines, but they must have some “feminine” elements,
to really suit me.
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
Amber Mystique Estee Lauder --a bold amber
Attache Moi ICONOFly --this is a very nice one


Can you tell me a little more about Amber Mystique? I love Estée Lauder, especially their classic fragrances from the 50s through the 70s, and Amber Mystique has intrigued me. However, I do not like “woody ambers,” which are mostly made of Norlimbal (I believe that is how you spell it), and I struggle with that, it smells like rubbing alcohol and feels like chewing on tinfoil. It is unfortunately overused in perfume these days, I suppose, because it projects like a beast. Does Amber Mystique have it? I would have jumped on it a while ago, if it did not.

Attaché Moi and ICONOfly are both new names for me! Tell me more, please!
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
I recommend Yves Rocher's and Etro's ambers.


Yes, yes,’absolutely! I forgot—there is one Yves Rocher in particular that I really love, called Voile d’Ambre, that I forgot about, completely. Is this the one you are talking about? I also see an Ambre Noir, which is marketed as a masculine (I don’t care one way or the other, as long as it smells good). Etro was also not on my list, a terrible omission, as I like their perfumes, and have not tried their amber—plus they make lovely shower and moisturizing products, and I would love a good amber for showers and bubble baths, too :).
 

purplelilac

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 13, 2012
Can you tell me a little more about Amber Mystique? I love Estée Lauder, especially their classic fragrances from the 50s through the 70s, and Amber Mystique has intrigued me. However, I do not like “woody ambers,” which are mostly made of Norlimbal (I believe that is how you spell it), and I struggle with that, it smells like rubbing alcohol and feels like chewing on tinfoil. It is unfortunately overused in perfume these days, I suppose, because it projects like a beast. Does Amber Mystique have it? I would have jumped on it a while ago, if it did not.

Attaché Moi and ICONOfly are both new names for me! Tell me more, please!

Hi Khanada,

I've attached the Fragantica site reviews so you can see what other people are saying as well.

EL Amber Mystique was made for the Middle Eastern market. I find it incense-y, smoke-y and it dries down to a very pretty woody, rosy, ambery scent--but it is a bit "forward" so I see it better suited to the cold weather than the hot (hence why I have not worn it much). It's unisex and has great longevity.
Here"s the link: https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Est-e-Lauder/Amber-Mystique-17573.html


The Attache-Moi is a more refined, sweeter more gentle amber, floral scent. I like it very much and wear it fairly often.From what you say above, I think this is more of what you are looking for: https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/ICONOfly/Attache-Moi-11128.html
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
Hi Khanada,

I've attached the Fragantica site reviews so you can see what other people are saying as well.

EL Amber Mystique was made for the Middle Eastern market. I find it incense-y, smoke-y and it dries down to a very pretty woody, rosy, ambery scent--but it is a bit "forward" so I see it better suited to the cold weather than the hot (hence why I have not worn it much). It's unisex and has great longevity.
Here"s the link: https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Est-e-Lauder/Amber-Mystique-17573.html


The Attache-Moi is a more refined, sweeter more gentle amber, floral scent. I like it very much and wear it fairly often.From what you say above, I think this is more of what you are looking for: https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/ICONOfly/Attache-Moi-11128.html

I can go both ways, weather and mood permitting. I, kind of, figured that Mystique was for the Middle East. I have avoided it, only because that market often means very strong woody amber base materials, and those can be such torture.
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
I’m trying a wild card this evening, Rook Perfumery’s Amber. It’s smoky, tarry, dense, very “indie,” in execution. A little has gone a long way. I would not want a bottle, but this sample will be nice, when the weather turns cold.
 

khanada

Basenotes Junkie
Mar 3, 2020
I should probably post some of my impressions here. My new bottles have mostly arrived. I think, I am finished buying perfume for a while.

One strange thing: this new FB bottle Ambra Mediterranea does not smell like the sample I got in the mail. It, probably, needs to marinate, for a while. It’s quite metallic and I can’t find the jasmine.
 

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