Linden Blossom Base

Carolus

New member
Jul 17, 2020
This to share a formula for a Linden blossom base, invite reactions, comments, advice and so on.

The model for this fragrance is French Linden Blossom absolute (Tilia Cordata). I have experienced that quite a few products sold as Linden Blossom absolutes, in fact appear to be American Linden, a very different scent.I have scoured the internet and books to find information to help me develop this. Although I found a lot of useful information, I failed to discover a formula that really satisfied me. Linden seems to a bit of an afterthought in floral perfumery.

My aims are to create a stylised but realistic representation of my model, using as few as possible first generation, nature-identical aromachemicals.

PEA
12​
Phenyl ethyl acetate
3​
Citronellol
3​
Geraniol
3​
Nerol
2​
Linalool
14​
Linalyl acetate
4​
Phenyl acetaldehyde 1%
6​
Phenyl acetic acid 10%
4​
Nonanal 10%
3​
Nerolidol
4​
Farnesol
4​
Gamma Undecalactone 10%
6​
Indole 1%
6​
Methyl anthranilate
1​
Hedione
4​
Benzyl salicylate
4​
Cis-3 hexenol
1​
1,8-Cineole (Eucalyptol)
2​
Isobornyl acetate 10%
2​
Limonene
3​
delta-Carene
1​
p-Cymene
1​
Linden blossom absolute
20​
 

Big L

Super Member
Nov 23, 2019
Hi Carolus, welcome to the forum. Although I love linden flower, I never had a chance to try the absolute. Therefore, my association comes from consuming it in tea, or more often, as linden flower syrup. In any case, I find both Dynascone and Pamplefleur grate none nature-identical ingredients that are reminiscent of the unique aroma of linden blossom.

I realized I might have misunderstood your message. I read it as if you would like to use mainly none nature-identical ingredients, where you probably meant you want to use only nature-identical materials, but as few of them as possible. :cheesy: Anyway, I hope you would still find some interest in what I was writing.

Also, just to make it easier to discuss and compare to other formulas, I adjusted your formula to parts per thousand.


PEA105
Phenyl ethyl acetate27
Citronellol27
Geraniol27
Nerol18
Linalool124
Linalyl acetate35
Phenyl acetaldehyde 1%53
Phenyl acetic acid 10%35
Nonanal 10%27
Nerolidol35
Farnesol35
Gamma Undecalactone 10%53
Indole 1%53
Methyl anthranilate9
Hedione35
Benzyl salicylate35
Cis-3 hexenol9
1,8-Cineole (Eucalyptol)18
Isobornyl acetate 10%18
Limonene27
delta-Carene9
p-Cymene9
Linden blossom absolute177
Total:1000
 

Carolus

New member
Jul 17, 2020
Thank you so much Big L.

You're completely right of course about what I meant to say with my last sentence. Although: hedione isn't exactly first generation or nature identical. I have tried to be parsimonious and removed components that did not seem to be essential to the Linden archetype

This is only a first sketch. Quantities are numbers of drops. I intend to further refine and weigh the ingredients. In fact I have made a perfume using this formula, adding Ambrettolide, ambergris and civet. Upscaling from drops to millilitres and this seemed worryingly inaccurate

I note that you live in Berlin. Perhaps you have smelled the real thing strolling on "Unter den Linden". I only know the scent from a bottle.
 

Big L

Super Member
Nov 23, 2019
Thank you so much Big L.

You're completely right of course about what I meant to say with my last sentence. Although: hedione isn't exactly first generation or nature identical. I have tried to be parsimonious and removed components that did not seem to be essential to the Linden archetype

This is only a first sketch. Quantities are numbers of drops. I intend to further refine and weigh the ingredients. In fact I have made a perfume using this formula, adding Ambrettolide, ambergris and civet. Upscaling from drops to millilitres and this seemed worryingly inaccurate

I note that you live in Berlin. Perhaps you have smelled the real thing strolling on "Unter den Linden". I only know the scent from a bottle.

You are very welcome.

I have indeed smelled the flowers many times and drank refreshing drinks flavored by them on hot summer days.

For me, it's nicer to see the formula in ppt, even if the units are drops, but yes, weight is definitely the way to go. It is much more accurate and reproducible.
 

skuharev

Basenotes Member
Sep 20, 2019
Hi, I'm very interested in a good Linden Blossom Base. I will try your formula in my frag to see how it works.

Right now i use in my frag Linden Blossom Givco (Givaudan), Cyclamen aldehyde, Farnesol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Benzyl Acetate, Coumarin, Honey, Petitgrain, Acetophenone, Benzophenone, ACACIA 0838 BASE PFW and a little bit of Linden blossom absolute, base de jus de pastèque, Geranium Bourbon.

150 Formula (above)
25 my own Musk base (Musk Ketone, Exaltolide Total (Firmenich), Helvetolide F, Habanolide, Polysantol 974656)
3 Orange flower absolute
3 Jasmine absolute
3 Rose absolute
1 Civet absolute
5 Tonka Beans
810 Ethanol


So i'm trying to repeat my fav frag Tilleul D’ORSAY
 

Kittycat74

Super Member
May 27, 2020
Capturing Linden Blossom in full bloom is my perfumery obsession! I don't have a couple of things in your formula so had to tweak but it's nice, thanks! I like to add a little Hexyl Cinnamic aldehyde, ionones, caryophylene and anethole (or fennel/tarragon EO) in an ever frustrating quest to capture the magic like Jo Malone did. There's a bunch of Linden trees growing in the local Churchyard near to my house and it's just heaven when they're fleetingly in bloom. Not long to wait...
 

LSP

New member
Oct 1, 2018
I did not try your formula, and maybe I'm missing something here, but I feel one very important aspect to create the illusion of linden blossom is the use of sweet green violet leaf and cucumber materials. Undecavertol, cis-3-hexenyl acetate, liffarome, nonadienal, violet leaf abs, or even violiff, MOC, MHC, etc. to modify the your honey floral "core". If you don't care about EU regulations, a good dose of Lyral why not.
Good luck :)
 

sibie

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Aug 7, 2017
Just for info, here's W.A. Poucher's formula:

400 Hydroxycitronellal
150 Terpineol
180 PEA
20 Ylang Bourbon
10 Lime Terpenless
50 Oranger Crystals
30 Iso-Jasmone
70 Citronellyl Acetate
5 Methyl Octane Carbonate
10 Isobutyl Phenyl Acetate
5 Ald C-12
20 Jasmine Absolute
10 Broom Absolute
30 Heliotropin
10 Musk Ambrette
Total: 1000
 

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