Lellabelle's Spirit Bear Perfumes

[PStoller]

Finally, we have CC, aka Camel Chypre, Carnal Cypher, etc.



I had a busy day today, as Mrs. S. came home and I didn't have much time to spend with my nose to my arm. That makes it harder than usual to talk about notes, but I did catch a slow-blooming rose and was happy to read back and find it confirmed by Lellabelle. I would also concur with her assessment of the masculine/feminine duality, which is quite different from the common, safely genderless unisex. In any case, I enjoyed this thoroughly. I did have moments of olfactory déjà vu, but can't tell if it was calling to mind another perfumer's work or one of the Spirit Bear scents from earlier in the week. No matter—every waft was welcome, and while it didn't hang on as long as Chypre, nor was its profile as aggressive, it still performed more than adequately.

While Chypre was clearly my most favorite and Celtic Moss my least, ranking the others is difficult—and ultimately pointless. All three are very close to Chypre in my esteem, and worthy of consideration for a FB purchase.

There's certainly enough left of them to invite someone else into the circle, though if I didn't have to part with them, I would not complain. It's a beautiful collection of scents. Lellabelle should be proud.

 

[Bavard]

I'm glad you're enjoying Spirit Bear, PStoller. I imagine you could private message Lellabelle for bottles.

I find the Spirit Bear stuff especially interesting. Neither Spirit Bear nor Rogue, though, have done well with my domestic partner up to now.

I recently tried a new-to-me Spirit Bear called Oriental #1, I think it was. I like it. Jules was scared off. I was getting a feeling of gummy resins, almost a bubble gummy tree sap. Plus jasmine, or another floral that can have its own sweetness.

 

[PStoller]

I find the Spirit Bear stuff especially interesting. Neither Spirit Bear nor Rogue, though, have done well with my domestic partner up to now.

I recently tried a new-to-me Spirit Bear called Oriental #1, I think it was. I like it. Jules was scared off. I was getting a feeling of gummy resins, almost a bubble gummy tree sap. Plus jasmine, or another floral that can have its own sweetness.

I haven’t run these by the Divine Ms. S. yet, but I’d like her to try at least Amore, and see if she can abide me in Chypre. Oriental #1 might be problematic, as the missus is not usually enamored of jasmine.

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

I haven’t run these by the Divine Ms. S. yet, but I’d like her to try at least Amore, and see if she can abide me in Chypre. Oriental #1 might be problematic, as the missus is not usually enamored of jasmine.

I'd be interested in knowing what she thinks of Chypre.

Chypre was my favorite of the bunch, CC being my least favorite - the animalic opening killed it for me despite evolving into a smooth chypye base. Chypre wasn't much of a surprise given the similarities to Chypre-Siam. The biggest difference I found was the lack of a strong amber oriental note present in the base of Chypre-Siam whereas it wasn't nearly as prevalent in Chypre.

Celtic Moss reminded me Mousse Illuminee as both have a strong dewy piney resin feel to it. Both have a strong outdoors feel to it, those you have to appreciate in order to enjoy these kind of scents and certainly they're not for everyone.

 

[Bavard]

I am getting in deep with Spirit Bear. I mentioned Oriental #1. I also have Fougere #1, Matin a Maroc, Cypress Thrill, Unnamed, Camel Toe Chypre (the Camel Chypre flanker), and Beloved.

I'm diving in with CC2, the Camel Toe Chypre. I know this basic idea well.

I think of chypres as simple and fairly sparse. This isn't like that at all.

This has the thickness of essential oils. It's spicy.

This feels like a Mandy Aftel / Aftleier natural fragrance.

I certainly like some parts of it. I'm getting a citronella candle smell from this. I'm given to understand that there may not be citronella in any of these, and that it's an effect of some other ingredient(s), which I find fun and interesting.

A couple over-the-counter fragrances with this kind of heat/spice are Patou Pour Homme (1980) and Piguet Bandit. It's like the heat from cinnamon, but I don't think that's it.

I'll keep exploring Chypre, CC, and Camel Toe Chypre to try to understand the differences, and form an idea of which direction I prefer. This is an interesting update on CC - more wearable, perhaps. It's coming across as a little brother. Softer and more cuddly. Less likely to offend. Smoother.

The harshness in CC is gone from Camel Toe Chypre. At the same time, I felt like I might be able to grow into CC.

I do like this. I'm torn about the whole citronella vibe. I think I like it. I'm trending toward embracing it. I think I would miss it if it were gone forever.

This is much more gentlemanly than CC - way smoother.

I think the original CC is Camel Chypre, and this CC2 is Camel Chypre Gentleman - a response to comments about the original CC being a bit much for some people in some parts (being the epic juice that it is!).

The Spirit Bear chypre base is challenging / complex / outside the norm - if it clicks for someone, there are a lot of variations you could do with it, adding different tobacco notes, for example.

 

[purecaramel]

I am getting in deep with Spirit Bear. I mentioned Oriental #1. I also have Fougere #1, Matin a Maroc, Cypress Thrill, Unnamed, Camel Toe Chypre (the Camel Chypre flanker), and Beloved.

I'm diving in with CC2, the Camel Toe Chypre. I know this basic idea well.

I think of chypres as simple and fairly sparse. This isn't like that at all.

This has the thickness of essential oils. It's spicy.

This feels like a Mandy Aftel / Aftleier natural fragrance.

I certainly like some parts of it. I'm getting a citronella candle smell from this. I'm given to understand that there may not be citronella in any of these, and that it's an effect of some other ingredient(s), which I find fun and interesting.

A couple over-the-counter fragrances with this kind of heat/spice are Patou Pour Homme (1980) and Piguet Bandit. It's like the heat from cinnamon, but I don't think that's it.

I'll keep exploring Chypre, CC, and Camel Toe Chypre to try to understand the differences, and form an idea of which direction I prefer. This is an interesting update on CC - more wearable, perhaps. It's coming across as a little brother. Softer and more cuddly. Less likely to offend. Smoother.

The harshness in CC is gone from Camel Toe Chypre. At the same time, I felt like I might be able to grow into CC.

I do like this. I'm torn about the whole citronella vibe. I think I like it. I'm trending toward embracing it. I think I would miss it if it were gone forever.

This is much more gentlemanly than CC - way smoother.

I think the original CC is Camel Chypre, and this CC2 is Camel Chypre Gentleman - a response to comments about the original CC being a bit much for some people in some parts (being the epic juice that it is!).

The Spirit Bear chypre base is challenging / complex / outside the norm - if it clicks for someone, there are a lot of variations you could do with it, adding different tobacco notes, for example.

I think this is very close to my thoughts and feelings of these scents. CC Toe as a flanker follows as an evolving scent that requires a conversation with the Perfumer. Being involved with the process together with sharing some of the tastes with the Perfumer provides an enriching experience Golden.
When tasting Beloved you may encounter the Bug Spray Citronella note. Lellabelle has indicated that Geranium Rose was used in this in her words simple assembly. Often I have found this citron in many Rose Absolutes. Could it be Orange Blossom and/or Bergamot that accents this? I find d that this scent throws off an accord of Pink Pepper and Pencil shavings most interesting. Lellabelle indicates that this scent was intended as an elegant Masculine.
Unnamed will have your nose meet a rather heavy and Castoreum rich Leather. For those who enjoy this animalic. For me it leaves a wonderful rich drydown that favours my dry pale skin.

 

[Bavard]

Unnamed will have your nose meet a rather heavy and Castoreum rich Leather. For those who enjoy this animalic. For me it leaves a wonderful rich drydown that favours my dry pale skin.

I'm trying a spritz of Unnamed. It's another bold perfume - I could see it scaring people away.

This isn't as crazy as Peau d'Espagne by Santa Maria Novella, but I'm not confident it's going to be a crowd favorite either.

I like it so far. It has a lot of promise. There's a marmalade note - a lemon or orange jam that is barely hanging on as it all goes to a heavy leather.

The leather note is a hit.

This is so intensely leathery - on the one hand, I think it needs something to lighten it - to make the heavy leather part of a broader accord. Then, though, I imagine there being a never-ending hunt for the original Unnamed that was all leather.

This is a tan leather. Classic coloring, but a darker tan, and yellowish. The finish is matte, just a touch glossy. You can almost imagine oil evaporating from a piece of leather, the leather is that fresh from the tannery. A strong leather - it will definitely last for years - but pliable.

Again, it almost goes into Peau d'Espagne territory, and I think it might not be for everyone.

I love the smell of this up close where I sprayed it. There, it's a nice leather, almost like the base of Jules, but with Spirit Bear gusto. I'm less comfortable with it as a perfume based on the smell I'm getting from a distance / in the sillage.

There is a lot going for this as a leathery base. Much better than Tuscan Leather, for example, or other modern, chemical-forward leathers.

This is leather from the old west.

Now, leather is more perfumed. It's rare to encounter leather this raw smelling.

 

[purecaramel]

I'm trying a spritz of Unnamed. It's another bold perfume - I could see it scaring people away.

This isn't as crazy as Peau d'Espagne by Santa Maria Novella, but I'm not confident it's going to be a crowd favorite either.

I like it so far. It has a lot of promise. There's a marmalade note - a lemon or orange jam that is barely hanging on as it all goes to a heavy leather.

The leather note is a hit.

This is so intensely leathery - on the one hand, I think it needs something to lighten it - to make the heavy leather part of a broader accord. Then, though, I imagine there being a never-ending hunt for the original Unnamed that was all leather.

This is a tan leather. Classic coloring, but a darker tan, and yellowish. The finish is matte, just a touch glossy. You can almost imagine oil evaporating from a piece of leather, the leather is that fresh from the tannery. A strong leather - it will definitely last for years - but pliable.

Again, it almost goes into Peau d'Espagne territory, and I think it might not be for everyone.

I love the smell of this up close where I sprayed it. There, it's a nice leather, almost like the base of Jules, but with Spirit Bear gusto. I'm less comfortable with it as a perfume based on the smell I'm getting from a distance / in the sillage.

There is a lot going for this as a leathery base. Much better than Tuscan Leather, for example, or other modern, chemical-forward leathers.

This is leather from the old west.

Now, leather is more perfumed. It's rare to encounter leather this raw smelling.

Perhaps Unnamed needs to baptized as "Untamed"?

Lellebelle has forwarded some Blogs that celebrate and offer some joyful support to us that carry an interest in Animalics.

It has offered me some insights into some foundations, related to my attraction to, Indols and other tasty treats.

I will follow up with some links to these sometimes hilarious writings.

https://deathscent.com/2017/02/24/the-carrion-flowers/

https://deathscent.com/2016/01/19/the-chemistry-of-death-and-desire/

 

[Lellabelle]

Unnamed was the little crystal dab bottle, I think? I’ve never tried spraying it, so I wonder if that changes it a little? I love leathers, and wanted a vibrant one that was also packed with white florals: strident and unapologetic, with an indolic vein that hints at something naughtier than gloves and handbags .
That one was super on you Camel. Better on your skin than mine, and it’s with its rightful home now

 

[Bavard]

I like Spirit Bear Beloved for having a little more of a mainstream vibe.

It has an astringent side to the opening, but that softens within a couple minutes.

The citronella note feels right here. This is Spirit Bear Eau de Cologne.

I wouldn't change a thing.

It is sort of challenging, but it's insistent on the house style, like an Hermes fragrance - celebrating a house theme like they do with cumin.

I'll have to try this again. I didn't love the opening during this first wearing, but I quickly started to see it as maybe the best Spirit Bear fragrance / most marketable / most likely hit and most typically Spirit Bear.

I'm curious why it wasn't part of the initial five samples?

I can smell a connection to Oriental #1, the gummy resin.

 

[purecaramel]

Unnamed was the little crystal dab bottle, I think? I’ve never tried spraying it, so I wonder if that changes it a little? I love leathers, and wanted a vibrant one that was also packed with white florals: strident and unapologetic, with an indolic vein that hints at something naughtier than gloves and handbags .
That one was super on you Camel. Better on your skin than mine, and it’s with its rightful home now

I can understand Untamed being a difficult wear for most people who are used to the AC white Musk floral ambrox bombs. Castoreum rich Florals are probably an acquired taste. Many people I've talked to are overwhelmed by Lutens Sarassins and JSP Burvuvu.
Castoreum, for me, seems to work with Floral Indils to push forward a Petrol note which then presents a Leatheriness.

 

[Bavard]

Matin a Maroc is the Spirit Bear lavender scent. In moments, I'm getting a gamy complexity, like Caron Yatagan. In other moments, it's all sharp lavender, but a nice lavender. I'll update with any twists or turns.

 

[purecaramel]

I like Spirit Bear Beloved for having a little more of a mainstream vibe.

It has an astringent side to the opening, but that softens within a couple minutes.

The citronella note feels right here. This is Spirit Bear Eau de Cologne.

I wouldn't change a thing.

It is sort of challenging, but it's insistent on the house style, like an Hermes fragrance - celebrating a house theme like they do with cumin.

I'll have to try this again. I didn't love the opening during this first wearing, but I quickly started to see it as maybe the best Spirit Bear fragrance / most marketable / most likely hit and most typically Spirit Bear.

I'm curious why it wasn't part of the initial five samples?

I can smell a connection to Oriental #1, the gummy resin.

I can agree with you in regards to Beloved, however I am quite taken with the opening, which, for me draws at a Floralcy of Baie Rose. This accord was presented to me early in my Cooking career with a Reduced Chardonnay Cream, Pink Pepper scented.

Not that the SB Beloved has any Oceanic flavour, the Sauce perfumed a Darne of Halibut Stuffed with a Leek Cream and Baked in Phyllo.

 

[Lellabelle]

Ah, Camel, now you’re making me hungry. Everything tastes better in phyllo *sigh*

I’m off to bake some bacon-wrapped dates...

 

[purecaramel]

Ah, Camel, now you’re making me hungry. Everything tastes better in phyllo *sigh*

I’m off to bake some bacon-wrapped dates...

Yummy!
Never tasted this however the combo has my saliva flowing and stomach gurgling!

It's Dylan Thomas, Farm Cheese and Homemade Quince Jelly tonite

A Merry Merry to You, Your Man and Father!

 

[Lellabelle]

Easiest thing in the world: find the biggest, juiciest freshest dates you can find, pit, wrap in a half slice of bacon each (I like the thinner cuts, smoked for preference, but it’s bacon, so anything works), drizzle with a little honey and balsamic and bake at 400 or so for 15-20 minutes, or whenever the bacon looks done.

I discovered these in Palm Springs some years ago, and they’re delicious :thumbsup:

Your evening sounds pretty perfect too, Camel Thanks for the warm wishes, and ours back to you!

All the very best of the season to all, and your loved ones; I’m grateful for the friends we have here, and for this shared passion that brings us all together Whatever you celebrate, or not, I wish health, happiness and love for you all.

 

[Lellabelle]

My gift to Ross this year:




A 100ml bottle of Amore, with minor tweaks... an overdose of his favourite Bulgarian Rose and Salalah Frankincense. Had to work on this secretly when he was out

 

[Bavard]

My gift to Ross this year:

A 100ml bottle of Amore, with minor tweaks... an overdose of his favourite Bulgarian Rose and Salalah Frankincense. Had to work on this secretly when he was out

How nice. Amore Extra.

 

[Bavard]

When tasting Beloved you may encounter the Bug Spray Citronella note. Lellabelle has indicated that Geranium Rose was used in this in her words simple assembly. Often I have found this citron in many Rose Absolutes. Could it be Orange Blossom and/or Bergamot that accents this? I find that this scent throws off an accord of Pink Pepper and Pencil shavings most interesting. Lellabelle indicates that this scent was intended as an elegant Masculine.

I'm trying Beloved again (revisit 1 of 12). "Geranium rose" sounds right to me. I'm comfortable in this.

This line smells so different to me from anything else I've tried. These aren't perfumes I can jump right into. I have to cautiously observe what they're doing.

I need to wear this until I have a better feeling for it.

I'm curious to go through my full set of samples again (1. Beloved, 2. Celtic Moss, 3. CC, 4. Camel Toe, 5. Oriental #1, 6. Amore, 7. Unnamed, 8. Beekeeper's Daughter, 9. Cypress Thrill, 10. Chypre, 11. Matin a Maroc, and 12. Fougere #1).

I think if I really study these, Lellabelle will recognize the effort and start letting me know what's really in them.

I think the "gummy resin" in Beloved might be frankincense or myrrh. Whatever it is, I'm starting to notice it in more perfumes, such Jean Marie Farina Eau de Cologne by Roger and Gallet and Bijan Men Cologne.

 

[grayspoole]

I’ll look forward to reading your thoughts, Bavard. Always fun to revisit perfumes.

I’ve tested only the first group of five.

Lellabelle, how does one obtain Spirit Bear samples and perfumes? Also, I am still eager to know what made me think of white flowers in Amore but others perceived differently..

 

[Bavard]

Unnamed (revisit 2 of 12) - Huge old-school leather, with a hint of apple cider. Crazy perfume. It brings to mind Santa Maria Novella Peau d’Espagne. Probably not the best fit for me. Beloved is more my speed.

Ah - it has a name now! Untamed. Great name for it.

Trying Amore again (revisit 3 of 12): the opening has the word "eucalyptus" swirling in my head. Then "angelica root." I liked it before and I still like it. This smells like over-the-counter niche to me. I'm likely being repetitive - MiN New York did something like this called "Old School Bench."

No - it was Celtic Moss I was talking about before when I mentioned Old School Bench. I'll try to wear that one next. I seem to think Amore and Cetic Moss are siblings.

Celtic Moss (revisit 4 of 12) has a similar vibe to Amore. I like the opening of Amore more. Overall, I think Amore has a little extra, and I think I like it more. Celtic Moss and I get along ok. We're more acquaintances than friends. Friendly acquaintances.

At the same time, Amore gets a little dirty-sweet in the base - it's not necessarily a bad thing. It's an unusual base.

Fougere #1 (revisit 5 of 12) - Another crazy perfume. Quite extreme. I can imagine it as a soap smell, but such an older style of raw, handmade soap that I've never imagined to smell in a perfume. This is coupled with, or the other side of, an intense swampiness or dank dampness that's borderline shocking. (In my head, this swampy smell is more associated with chypres than fougeres). It softens as it develops, and overall makes an attention-grabbing artistic statement. Jules doesn't like it. I like how it starts out a little scary, but it's like a person who's not so bad once you get to know them.

Matin a Maroc (revisit 6 of 12) - The same Spirit Bear gummy resin (frankincense?, myrrh?) eventually comes out, so the base of this has one of the house signatures. The opening, though, was fairly different from anything else in this line, and I think it's well done. I found myself thinking of it as a wholesome perfume. There is a dash of Moroccan spice, which is lovely, and makes this smell like an artistic vision realized.

CC (revisit 7 of 12) - I recall having a problem with this one before, but it feels much more comfortable now. Today, I'm calling it Canadian Chypre, and having visions of a full bottle.

Oriental #1 (revisit 8 of 12) - Whereas Fougere #1 was outside my comfort zone, Oriental #1 squeaks in. This has a massive dose of gummy resin. One of the samples in the IsoESuperman blind pass is super gummy like this. If we're doing gummy resin, why not go all in with Oriental #1? I'm thinking Oriental #1 is one of the best of this set. Everything is coming together - the gummy resin never smelled so sweet as with this floral note. Maybe a sweet jasmine. I've always liked orientals. This is some kind of floral oriental, to my nose. The development of this is delicious. It has the right sweetness to be an oriental. A+ on the sweetness level. The spices are surprisingly subdued for an "oriental."

One of my reference orientals is Chanel Egoiste, or Chanel Bois Noir as Lellabelle knows it, the original version of Egoiste that may have been even more in the direction of the Spirit Bear stripped-down raw-ingredients style. And the sweet, woody base of Oriental #1 is in the same style, to my nose, as the sweet, natural goodness in the base of Bois Noir/Egosite.

Here's what I wrote about Oriental #1 in December.

I recently tried a new-to-me Spirit Bear called Oriental #1, I think it was. I like it. Jules was scared off. I was getting a feeling of gummy resins, almost a bubble gummy tree sap. Plus jasmine, or another floral that can have its own sweetness.

Given that I had completely forgotten what this was like or what I had thought about it before, or if I had even left a comment about it, I am heartened to see that my impression is exactly the same as it was then.

Imagine being a kid who grew up loving gum and citronella. Really loving them, more than you know. Like either one of them primed you to enjoy life. Unwrap a wad of bubble gum - euphoria, however subtle. Catch a whiff of a citronella candle burning, you can almost get goosebumps from the magic of a summer night. Then, imagine later in life discovering Spirit Bear. Your best childhood feelings would come rushing back into you with every spritz.

Camel Toe/CC2 (revisit 9 of 12) - The opening is intense. I have an image of a fresh piece of wooden furniture - quite fresh. Maybe even with fine saw dust in the vicinity, it was cut so recently. The wood isn't even dry yet - and yet, in this perfume - someone is trying to stain the wood anyway. So wearing this smells like an excitingly new piece of wooden furniture with fresh stain. A stain that is strong, but somehow made by some kind of super caring niche wood stain maker who keeps the stain from smelling harsh even when it's still wet.

Purecaramel talked about CC having softened in the bottle. I agree. I think the same think could happen with CC2 (Camel Toe).

Camel Chypre one (CC) is a base scent which is rough outline of my taste. Composition was developed from conversation with the Perfumer and I expect a little investigation of my reviewing, writing style. As such it may not fit the tastes of others that sniff it.

CC2 Toe is a scent built upon interview and the Perfumer exposing me to a selection of HQ materials and scenting some more of her creations.

Many could find CC2 Toe little too Animalic as the doses of Moss and Castoreum are very rich. A touch of Rose Absolute and a wallop of Jasmine Indol have added some complexity and unexpected softening of texture. Still it remains as a personal scent that some could find difficult.

I'm still exploring. I do like how CC has softened over time, and I agree that CC2 never had the same kind of harshness as the fresh CC had in the base. But now CC has kind of bloomed in the vial, while CC2 hasn't changed as much, that I can tell. I'm going to keep coming back to these to try to find a more definitive preference. And Chypre. And Beloved.

Beekeeper's Daughter (revisit 10 of 12) - Completely different from the others. Some single ingredient seems to dominate, although maybe it's an interaction of different things. This has huge personality. I think the uninitiated might not recognize it as perfume. I like it. It reminds me of food and leather. There's a hint of bacon to this, or the smell of the heat from cooking bacon, maybe bacon grease.

A bit later, it smells so far from bacon grease that the association seems unimaginable, and it smells much more like a sweet honey fragrance, and at moments really beautiful. It's changing so much over time, the best moments are necessarily fleeting.

This is a perfume for people who are jaded with traditional, more mainstream perfume, even other Spirit Bears.

Chypre (revisit 11 of 12) - I'll need to try Chypre, CC, and CC2 on skin at the same time. This project can't be complete without a reckoning. This is reminding me so much of those two that I'm feeling muddled about the differences, and have no idea about my preference. This has softened, like CC. This has more of a musty note that I think chypre connoisseurs might go for - dark and earthy. I remember thinking of this as a 9% Imperial IPA of a chypre, but through it softening and/or my reconditioning, it is now more like a 7.5% abv chypre.

Cypress Thrill (revisit 12 of 12) - The Spirit Bear Eau de Cologne. A pretty good one.

Comparison wearings:

Starting with Chypre. I am sold on the opening. One of the other three will need to come out of the gates strong to match this. I've gone with a heavy dab of CC on the other arm. The thinking, I think, is that this is a masculine version of Chypre. This smells substantial like a reed diffuser solution that can fill up a room, a dry, brisk, woody, natural reed diffuser. Much brighter than Chypre. Chypre is much swampier, deep, dark, earthy. CC is more like a menthol rub, but an artisanal perfume version that smells good and expands your airways at the same time. Wearing them side by side like this, I imagine CC as the one I would wear. It's clear. This contradicts how I had ranked them after trying just the first five. I liked CC then, but it had a harshness that scared me.

CC2 comes out more foodie. Much more of an herbal, veggie, green blast. Smelled one after another, CC2 is yet another step up. It's just adding more, taking nothing away. This has the purring, spicy-hot gravitas that a great vintage can have, coming from wood, but a greenish foodie note - a tiny, tiny hint of spearmint. This is like a polished version of a Yatagan type of fragrance. Of the three, CC2 is clearly my preference, wearing them simultaneously.

Throwing on Beloved, it's different. A totally different type of fragrance - a floral that could work for men. It also reminds me of a certain kind of herbal smell, but sweet and trippy, and not foody.

CC2, Beloved, and Oriental #1 is my Spirit Bear wish list.

For the naming of CC and CC2, I liked Canadian Chypre and Canadian Chef Chypre, but Jules was mortified. However, she does think it smells like caramel, and for CC2, I find I can agree, and she likes the name Pure Caramel Chypre, so the naming sequence would be Chypre, Caramel Chypre, and Pure Caramel Chypre.

In summary, my wish list comprises 1. Pure Caramel Chypre, a Caron Yatagn-type that started as a chypre and grew from there, with menthol instead of rosemary, 2. Beloved, which is seeming to me to be a Guerlain Habit Rouge type - a big rif that has to be played out because it's that catchy - a more recent version of Habit Rouge edt where the top notes are punchy, and 3. Oriental #1, which is falling into a Chanel Egoiste type category for me.

If I were to go for a fourth, it would be Chypre, for variety, rather than CC. Chypre is really nice and earthy - it goes fairly quiet, but has a nice roundness. CC is a lot like CC2.

Beloved would be one of the edgiest fragrances I own.

After the revisits, I’m liking CC2 the most. It’s restrained. Beloved is more flamboyant.