Leather formula, mid and top notes

Jan 9, 2019
Hi everyone,

currently, I have these materials and I will start working on a leather focused formula, I am a bit concerned as I am not sure what to use for the mid and top part of it, and I really don't want to go into a citrusy direction, or using raspberry ketone, anything I could add?
-Any advice on dilution of Suederal, Isobutyl Quinoline and Black Agar from Givco?
-Lastly any advice on which musks would work better with a leather accord?

Current possible materials for the formula:

rosewood EO
hedione
frankincense EO
beta ionone
isobutyl quinoline
Suederal
black agar Givco
labdanum EO
vanillin 10%
birch tar 1%
vetiver EO
cedramber
cedar EO
coumarin 10%
ambroxan 10%
benzoin styrax 10%
iso e super
patchouli EO
ambrettolide
galaxolide
ethylene brassylate
 

Casper_grassy

Basenotes Dependent
May 5, 2020
I would scrap the hedione to start.

Black agar doesn’t give me leather vibes but I can see it put to use in a leather based fragrance.

You should look into indole or indolarome (easier to use as a beginner for solubility, interactions with other materials and no potential discoloring), costus or costus oliffac (lipsticky but also leathery IMO), safraleine, castoreum.

I’d also swap the birch tar with cade instead, both are very similar but I find cade to be smoother and not as “fishy”.

I would also stress the use citronellol has in a leather accord.

I use most things undiluted but you can use IBQ at 10 or 1 depending on what else you’re working with. If you want you can also drop the birch tar or cade to 0.1%

But going off the list there isn’t much that’ll help it perform or project, it’s going to sit rather close to the skin unless you OD on the IBQ and Birch tar
 

CaseyW

New member
Dec 15, 2021
Hi everyone,

currently, I have these materials and I will start working on a leather focused formula, I am a bit concerned as I am not sure what to use for the mid and top part of it, and I really don't want to go into a citrusy direction, or using raspberry ketone, anything I could add?
-Any advice on dilution of Suederal, Isobutyl Quinoline and Black Agar from Givco?
-Lastly any advice on which musks would work better with a leather accord?

Current possible materials for the formula:

rosewood EO
hedione
frankincense EO
beta ionone
isobutyl quinoline
Suederal
black agar Givco
labdanum EO
vanillin 10%
birch tar 1%
vetiver EO
cedramber
cedar EO
coumarin 10%
ambroxan 10%
benzoin styrax 10%
iso e super
patchouli EO
ambrettolide
galaxolide
ethylene brassylate
Love what you have here! Galaxolide might over power the Agar in the drydown but play around with it. Everything depends on your starting dilutions. I highly recommend Cuir Vitessence™️ in something like this.
 
Jan 9, 2019
I would scrap the hedione to start.

Black agar doesn’t give me leather vibes but I can see it put to use in a leather based fragrance.

You should look into indole or indolarome (easier to use as a beginner for solubility, interactions with other materials and no potential discoloring), costus or costus oliffac (lipsticky but also leathery IMO), safraleine, castoreum.

I’d also swap the birch tar with cade instead, both are very similar but I find cade to be smoother and not as “fishy”.

I would also stress the use citronellol has in a leather accord.

I use most things undiluted but you can use IBQ at 10 or 1 depending on what else you’re working with. If you want you can also drop the birch tar or cade to 0.1%

But going off the list there isn’t much that’ll help it perform or project, it’s going to sit rather close to the skin unless you OD on the IBQ and Birch tar
Thanks for all the suggestions, I was thinking about indole as well yes. Is there any other material that could help the projection? Maybe some aldehydes? And how come the use of citronellol?
 

Casper_grassy

Basenotes Dependent
May 5, 2020
Thanks for all the suggestions, I was thinking about indole as well yes. Is there any other material that could help the projection? Maybe some aldehydes? And how come the use of citronellol?
Definitely aldehydes, if you have any, aldehyde supra is really good for leather/animalic formulas. C-12mna is a hreat choice as well.
Suederal is pretty diffusive on it’s own.

If you have citronellol or rhodinol and smell them, when you do, don’t think about rose, think about what you’re looking to make and you’ll see why I mentioned it
 

Saraiva

Basenotes Member
May 26, 2018
Hello halofabio
Good afternoon
Why not use Mousse de Saxe or Corinal for leather notes and for smoky notes use Cuir MD, I think they are good products for the direction of the leather you want.
So the work is almost done...;)
Best regards.
 

Casper_grassy

Basenotes Dependent
May 5, 2020
Could guaiacol be used to replace this aspect?
Not to me, it could def be used though for its phenolic aspects, but it’s bacon-y to me.
cade imo smells like you sat around a campfire all night drinking and smoking then you smell the clothing you wore in the morning lol. I could’ve just said burnt and smokey. But you get the point
 

Yuri-G

Basenotes Junkie
Sep 13, 2020
Not to me, it could def be used though for its phenolic aspects, but it’s bacon-y to me.
cade imo smells like you sat around a campfire all night drinking and smoking then you smell the clothing you wore in the morning lol. I could’ve just said burnt and smokey. But you get the point
Yeah I get the bacon thing. Or BBQ sauce. It goes quite nicely with myrrh though, weirdly.
 
Jan 9, 2019
Hello halofabio
Good afternoon
Why not use Mousse de Saxe or Corinal for leather notes and for smoky notes use Cuir MD, I think they are good products for the direction of the leather you want.
So the work is almost done...;)
Best regards.
For the Mousse de Saxe, I really don't like the smell of aniseed or anything similar (one of the few odours that are literally giving me a headache). I can't find any information about Corinal though?
 

mnitabach

Basenotes Dependent
Nov 13, 2020
For the Mousse de Saxe, I really don't like the smell of aniseed or anything similar (one of the few odours that are literally giving me a headache). I can't find any information about Corinal though?

Assuming what is meant is "coranol", it isn't the slightest bit leathery. BUT, it contributes very interesting multifaceted tenacious top effects (even verging on mid IME) & could be quite a good choice to combine with a leather accord.

ETA: Speaking of leathery top notes, apo patchone is a very interesting multifaceted material, combining leathery with rosy floral notes. If I'm remembering correctly, Big L (or maybe someone else?) posted an interesting funeral home or something death type formula with it that I tried out a while back. I should pull it back outta the closet!
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
For the Mousse de Saxe, I really don't like the smell of aniseed or anything similar (one of the few odours that are literally giving me a headache). I can't find any information about Corinal though?
The "Anise seed" in MDS is the IBQ.
 

Saraiva

Basenotes Member
May 26, 2018
For the Mousse de Saxe, I really don't like the smell of aniseed or anything similar (one of the few odours that are literally giving me a headache). I can't find any information about Corinal though?
Hello

halofabio

Good Morning.
No, it's not Coranol which is a bit like Linalool, it's Corinal® a leather-scented Firmenich base. here:
Best regards.
 

birdie

Super Member
Dec 11, 2016
p-cresyl methyl ether is good for leather top notes. Have you considered using something like lactoscatone? Maybe change the galaxolide for cashmeran?
 

Jolieo

Basenotes Dependent
Feb 18, 2018
The only place that I have seen mousse de saxe for sale is psh- and I own it - that version has no licorice- and would be a great addition to anything leather
 

Latest News

Top