know anything about Anna Zworykina Perfumes?

thrilledchilled

All Is Beautiful
Basenotes Plus
Nov 17, 2018
they are available on etsy in little bottles of 5mL approx, and I ordered some that sounded good.

It's a long way from Moscow, and I don't mind blind buying this sort of thing.

It's right up my alley, sounds like.
 

The_Cologneist

Well-known member
Feb 27, 2010
I've heard of her brand and have her Etsy store bookmarked. Prices seem too expensive for a relatively unknown brand. Over $40 for a small samples seems outrageous. Plus she has a ton of frags, so to sample the whole line would cost several hundreds of dollars.

The only real big positive on her side is that Luca Turin commends her, but then again he also commends Beyond Paradise which is a monstrosity to most people.
 

thrilledchilled

All Is Beautiful
Basenotes Plus
Nov 17, 2018
I've heard of her brand and have her Etsy store bookmarked. Prices seem too expensive for a relatively unknown brand. Over $40 for a small samples seems outrageous. Plus she has a ton of frags, so to sample the whole line would cost several hundreds of dollars.

The only real big positive on her side is that Luca Turin commends her, but then again he also commends Beyond Paradise which is a monstrosity to most people.

But she uses all naturals. Expensive.
 

The_Cologneist

Well-known member
Feb 27, 2010
But she uses all naturals. Expensive.

I just can't justify spending so much. This is higher than many prestigious fragrance houses with good repertoires, who use high quality ingredients. In my experience, naturals don't even show much. They don't smell any better, they definitely don't perform better. Is it worth paying so much, just knowing you're wearing something natural? Sounds like the placebo effect. But hey, to each their own.

There are some ingredients I am skeptical about as well. I can understand how many floral notes can be made natural, as well as green notes; but stuff like coffee, which she uses in some fragrances, I don't know how that can be entirely natural. Although coffee beans are natural, I have never seen an all natural coffee or coffee bean fragrance oil. I don't think it's possible to make. She may be using other oils to make up the accord, which then isn't really any different than what anybody else does.

Don't let my opinions impact your decisions, though I thought to weigh in personally. Even if I could afford spending roughly $10 for 2 ml with a minimum of $50 for fragrance set, it simply wouldn't be worth it to me.
 

Valier

Well-known member
Aug 11, 2016
I picked up her summer landscape sampler yesterday. Her silver lavender is the real deal, she's good real good
 

thrilledchilled

All Is Beautiful
Basenotes Plus
Nov 17, 2018
I tried Cuir de Russie and A Ghost House

These are fantastic. They are clean and complex and incredibly well blended.

I need some more wearings to get my arms around them.

Cuir de Russie is absolutely mind boggling. It is the equivalent to a Sultan Pasha in complexity, but is is a perfume not an attar. Intoxicating.
 

thrilledchilled

All Is Beautiful
Basenotes Plus
Nov 17, 2018
This is a review of A Ghost House, posted by someone on Fragrantica, and has to be one of the best reviews ever.

A sort of update.

There are perfumes for smelling great, there are perfumes that are showy and there is a kind of perfumes that are meant just for you, for your soul. And as often happens, it seems you know some сertain perfume of this very kind inside out, but once in a while it is still able to break your stride and stop you stunned and overwhelmed with some piercing realization of beauty of life.

So it happened to me and Anna’s Ghost House. At a glance you can’t call it beautyful, most of you wouldn’t call it even pleasant: musty wood, old stairways, dust and desolation – nothing particularly to love, but I loved it the first time I smelled and do love for years. I know it well, I know the smell of materials it is made of, seems like I can even repeat the composition myself, should I by any chance get my hands on Anna’s materials. But I still cannot understand how it does this things to me. But let me, I shall tell you the whole story.

I grew up in the countryside in the continental North of Russia (-40 C in winter, late lazy spring, +40 C in summer, cold long autumn, vast forests – all those things). And as a child I was especially fond of early spring, it meant the end of long cold winter and the most important, it brought smells back into the world. Smells of melting snow and fresh ground, of hay remaining from the last year, of warmed walls of our wooden house, of the first spring flowers and fresh dough. Do you remember your childhood impressions, when each colour was vivid and new, each smell sharp clear and big and each day was full of promises? In spring all these were even more so.

With time I got less attentive to new, more tired of people and way too cynical to feel any thing close to those childhood impressions. And besides living in a big city detaches you step by step from nature. There still are seasons in a city, but you usually do not have much of a process – a winter just jumps at you somewhere at the corner and you simply note that it’s time to change your wardrobe for a warmer one. In the countryside things still are different, there still is a process of season coming, but now as I am, what I mostly feel about it is a light irritation – too hot or too cold, too dusty or too rainy, feet got wet , nose is running … well, you certainly know it by yourselves.

But this morning something clicked and I just felt everything – not just melting snow, raining sky and wet trees,- I felt the world is moving into spring. Do you know the feeling? When all the forces of nature are going through you, when you are a part of all these, when a moment longer and you will be able ho hear the Earth moves. Everything around smelled of my childhood, it was absolutely impossible upon thinking but I smelled it I swear! The other day I would give my leg and arm to be able to feel that again, but today I got it for free. The cynical part of me coldly informed that this morning I used the Gost House and all the “magic” is probably comes from it. Let it be so, I don’t mind at all. More than that, I think it is a pure luck that there are things that can give you back your past, the freshness you’ve lost through all these years. Things that can give you a priceless moment of feeling alive.
 

Diamondflame

Frag Bomber 1st Squadron
Basenotes Plus
Jun 28, 2009
Have a bunch of her samples waiting for me at the postal office. I’m stoked. October is my birthday month - it’s gonna be a month-long fragrance extravaganza. With the likes of ALD, Bortnikoff, Rising Phoenix, Francesca Bianchi all launching new stuff around the same time, my wallet’s gonna take a massive hit.
 

Scarce

Well-known member
Dec 28, 2014
Have a bunch of her samples waiting for me at the postal office. I’m stoked. October is my birthday month - it’s gonna be a month-long fragrance extravaganza. With the likes of ALD, Bortnikoff, Rising Phoenix, Francesca Bianchi all launching new stuff around the same time, my wallet’s gonna take a massive hit.

You're only buying top quality, so you are excused.

If you were blowing wads of cash on expensive crap, like Creed, Xerjoff, Clive Christian, etc that'd be a completely different story, :rolleyesold:

sincerely yours,

a fragrance snob w/taste
 

dysect

Well-known member
Oct 4, 2013
Got my spray bottle from Bloom UK (shipped to the states for free). Ended up getting Cuir De Russie. I personally love this scent. Its dark opulent woody leather with some hints of animalic accords. Perhaps the most challenging or unapologetic of the three I've tried. Cuir De Russie reminds me of some leather aviator sheepskin/shearling jacket thats been through the ringer for many years. Its natural leather soaked in some of the woods its been exposed to creating that distinct worn out leather aroma profile

Revenge - The most approachable wearable one of the three I've tried thinking of owning this one to.
Secret Dreams - Closely related to Cuir De Russie but dialed down a notch or two

Upcoming samples (which should conclude my exploration of this house for the time being)
Young Cossak - leather cyphre
Green Madness - green/spring/summer profile I think not sure
Silver lavender - lavender/spring/summer profile I think not sure
The Second skin - Leather family her second best seller of the genre. (First being Cuir De Russie)
Wind from mountain Kailash - Top notes: cistus, white sage, juniper berry, elemi, wormwood
Heart notes: oregano, lavender, frankincense, guiacwood
Base notes: cedarwood, opoponax


I do agree with the pricing and how sampling the house can be expensive. I would recommend just sampling the ones with the notes you really think will pull at the right heart strings for you. Don't expect crazy longevity like Interlude or something. With these I get a solid 4-5 hours of 2-3 feet projection but then it settles down after that 4-5 hour mark to more of a bubble scent around you. You'd have to be close to someone for them to notice you, so if that is turning you off. Skip the house
 
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Ashfaque

Well-known member
Jul 27, 2017
Revenge (2011) is a very unusual leather perfume from Anna Zworykina - an all natural perfumer from Russia. She has some stunning compositions - Ghost House, Cuir de Russie, Dark Side of the Goddess, Wind From Mount Kailash and many more!

I can detect rose, jasmine, and ylang ylang amongst other florals that adds an alluring and thus less serious quality to it. I love how Anna created a contrasting aura - especially how she married galbanum, wormwood, labdanum, orris & oakmoss. A beautiful leathery chypre.
 

boui_boui

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2018
Own and quite enjoy her Cuir de Russie.
Also bought the leather sample pack: filled with lots of interesting and well done leathers.
As with most natural perfumes, they are initially loud, but end up being low(er)-projection after a little bit. They are very long lasting and have wonderful drydowns.
Also should note that they ALL go through various stages- none of the ones I have tried have been linear.
Overall, I think she is a talented perfumer. I also quite like the idea of her "Message in a bottle" seasonal service.
 

Jcelello

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 26, 2019
I know this is an old thread, but I would LOVE to hear some specific comments on how Anna's Cuir compares to CHANEL's.

I find hers to be much heavier on the birch tar compared to Chanel's (I have the EDT, haven't tried true vintage which I have read also has more birch tar presence I think). I also clearly pick up oud. It smells like a natural perfume. Rough around the edges too. To me, its like a mix between Hiram Green Hyde and an Areej le Dore oud composition. I like it a lot for what it is, but the Chanel is my clear preference. I honestly would not have seen the connection to the Chanel had the AZ been named something different.
 

Darvant

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Mar 26, 2010
I appreciate a lot this line and the qualified performer Anna Zworykina. I've reviewed on the Directory several perfumes from this little russian house.
 

Whackyjacky

Member
Mar 16, 2020
Recently discovered Zworykina and I find her works to be sensational. She’s in possession of an utterly unique style. It’s a shame she doesn’t get more talk within the artisanal perfume community, because I feel she is creating work like no one else today. Incredibly evocative olfactory smellscapes. One complaint would be performance, which is only ever moderate on all counts. But the juice is always total magic. Personal highlights include Cuir de Russie, Young Cossack, A Ghost House, Hue and Tobacco Tuberose. But everything I’ve tried of hers is singular, well blended, high quality and just so damn interesting.
 

Shadowartisttxl

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2016
I've bought my eleventh bottle blind from Anna. I simply have to bump this thread with praises of her work: she is simply one of the most interesting and beautiful perfumers alive I am thoroughly convinced. ThrilledChilled is exactly right - they function just like SPAs except they are perfume based. Please do yourself a favor and give them a try (especially if you are a fan of say SPA, Slumberhouse, Bogue, Prin, etc.)
 

Shadowartisttxl

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2016
Ok guys, quick run down of the perfumes I own from this house, in chunks as I feel like this is one of the greatest contemporary houses, and yet almost nobody speaks of it.

Cuir de Russie - this I feel like is the most well known fragrance from the house - it reminds me a lot of SPA Cuirlilas - a brilliant, dark, creamy, smoky, floral leather - sweet but not too sweet, animalic and smoky without being aggressive or offensive, earthy and herbal without being bitter or sharp (in fact the sweet-green character which springs up every so often is one of the best moments of this juice.) Absolutely one of the best of the creamy leathers on the market today.

Currant Mood - one of the best Currant fragrances on the market, without a doubt the best tomato leaf fragrance of all time imho. The tomato leaf note gets uplifted by this really warm resinous oakmoss note - which the juicy and urinous quality of the currant spills over into the resin of the oakmoss (in contrast with something like veramoss which smells similar to oakmoss, minus the strong resin character) with everything still retaining this fresh, green quality. The labdanum pairs up with the bergamot, green tea and vetiver to create a really rich, green and warm syrup to go beneath this brilliant dance above. It reminds me a little of Diptyque's L'Ombre Dans, but placed within a vintage chypre spell.

Wind From Mount Kailash - An absolutely brilliant use of aromatics - here specifically speaking of Sage, Lavender, and Oregano. These notes are very difficult to make sing without muddling them in a kind of generic 'fougere' accord, but here they all express themselves individually and beautifully. The go back and forth between a spicy and citric elemi and a churchy frankincense in a way that makes the fragrance feel wispy, cool and airy, but not thin, or short in duration. For aromatic lovers, this is a brilliant gem.

A Ghost House: This, alongside Nigredo, are some of the more interesting approaches to oud that I have smelled in some time. Here it is linked up with vetiver and guaiac wood to create this kind of rosy-violety varnish accord with a real earthiness coming from the vetiver to support that smoky, resinous oud. The frankincense and choya loban here cast a very 'dark and musty' kind of balsamic-smoky spell throughout the fragrance which is to me the 'ghost' in the vetiver-guaiac-oud 'house'. The cistus does a good job creating a liminal space where the two meet - giving a warm, musty and a deep 'lived in' smell to the scent - considering cistus is one half of many 'accords' of musk, like deer musk, ambergris, labdanum, etc, it gives this 'half-lived' character to the ghost making the narrative all the more convincing. This kind of conceptual art is one of my great loves in perfumery.

Nigredo: This one reads much more 'oud'-centric without becoming yet another of the tireless production of 'oud' soliflores which flood the artisanal market daily. It's an oud that isn't afraid of perfumery working with oud - it doesn't 'hide behind oud' in a way that most of these other fragrances make you wish that you simply bought an oud oil. Instead, the oud retains its complex woody-smoky character, dried out in part by the smoky castoreum, the bone dry and waxy orris and oppoponax, a musty spikenard note and some funky mushrooms, yet with a fruity osmanthus and bouquet of roses and tuberose cheering the back-end up from becoming a purely dry and dark affair. What a total joy.
 

Shadowartisttxl

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2016
Here are some more

Silver Lavender: This is a favorite of mine - it actually doesn't read as much of a lavender fragrance to me as it does a burning sage/rosemary accord which joins with the incense and elemi to create this fresh character married with this really warm, semi-animallic character to call to mind the concept maybe of a smudge stick, without the actual scent of what burning a smudge stick smells like if that makes sense. You can tell that oakmoss, galbanum, sandalwood and jasmine are in the base, but without smelling deeply and looking for them, the recombine with the elemi and incense to continue to smolder in the best way possible. There's no smokiness to this scent despite all of my descriptors surrounding such a feeling, but rather a cleansing and purifying feeling of herbal holiness. Beautiful!

Revenge - this one is quite difficult to describe, not only because it is quite unusual in its approach, but also because it hangs very close to my skin (taking into account I ordered the extraits, and apply one swipe with sterile disposable dipsticks.) What I do get, so far, is a warm, spicy (almost animalic from the costus) slightly salty, slightly floral leather accord mixed with dry herbs. One would think, when looking at the notes, that this would be green, sweet and powdery, but I almost don't get any of the normal associations that would come with those descriptors here. In fact, there is some sweetness and some greenness here, but rather than coming from say the galbanum or ylang-ylang, they seem to be coming from the wormwood and orange blossom which are submurged deeper within the work, rather than dancing about on top. There is a somewhat strong sweetness coming from the fresh-cut grass character of the russian terragon used here as well, but it gets curbed into the tobacco-orris-incense-patchouli accord that smells somewhat like loose tobacco chew, or perhaps even more like Swedish snus in that it gives off this kind of umami-tobacco-gasoline-medicine feeling. I really like it overall, it feels very unique to wear and brings me to an area that a lot of perfumery simply is too scared to go into - it feels modern and ancient at the same time - I just feel like I will need to apply more, or to a pulse point next time to make sure I get the full effect without having to press my nose against my skin. Either way, I don't really care and am overjoyed to have a bottle, but just something to note from my experience.
 

Shadowartisttxl

Well-known member
Mar 25, 2016
Secret Dreams - this one really smells inspired by slumberhouse - the tobacco is so thick, moist and pungent, and made boozier and deeper with an incredibly rich castoreum note, and a blue medicinal myrrh. It seems almost like a Nordic-tobacco-gourmond. Nordic in the sense that it is vinigery and still sweet, spicy and herbal, but yet, boozy and sweet. But it never looses the absolutely stunning tobacco note in the center of this juice. There's a creamy sweet immortelle note that stirs all the oil back and forth, bringing up resinous, chewy, sweet melodies with occasional saffron, cumin, and close finding a green (like how norne is 'green') wormwood note that continues to showcase the herbal, ancient resinous character of this juice. Any lover of Slumberhouse needs to get their noses on this one. Masterpiece for sure.

Young Cossack: This is another homerun, and does something really interesting that I haven't quite experienced yet. It's a sweet herbal cumin fragrance. Now the sweetness never sits on top of the cumin which is the star player of this fragrance, and it never gets sweeter than the herbs that it is bolstering (it at times smells like a toned down, and more melodious Issara.) It smells very rugged and old, yet in a very austere and handsome way - meaning tobacco, leather and cumin seem to be big players here, occasionally dusty, sweaty and earthy, but always in a gentlemanly manner. In fact, this one could have been called 'Cuir de la Slovénie' in that it does seem to carry that slightly austere, dusty and exotic nature that most interpretations of a CdR fragrance would represent, but of course here pointed at Cossacks in a way that is really evocative and beautiful!
 

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