Jicky EDP: Bee Bottle or Inverted Heart Bottle?

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
There seems to be some disagreement as to whether or not the current Jicky EDP, now sold in 75ml inverted-heart spray bottles, has been poorly reformulated since its generally admired bee bottle iteration (I think around 2018?). Apparently the formula codes - not the batch codes - on the boxes match, so presumably there have been no changes; however, this was also the case with Apres L'Ondée, and I swear fragrance and performance of the new version (heart bottle) is vastly improved over its bee bottle iteration.

My Jicky EDP is in the metal refillable case, with a 2016 batch code. I don't know if it was reformulated prior to its later appearance in the bee bottle. I'm trying to decide whether or not it would be worthwhile to purchase the latest vesion. Jicky aficionados, what say you? It's not ridiculously expensive, but blind-buying Jicky is a riskier proposition than most.
 

GoldWineMemories

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2019
In 2018 they were talking about how 2018 Jicky is basically lavender water, and that 2014 was the youngest you could possibly enjoy Jicky at. What do you prefer the EDT, EDP, or extrait? I guess the EDT is done for, I don't mind it wasn't my favorite. The extrait to me has a wonderful beragmont, but something about the concentration isn't my favorite. Mitsouko is my favorite extrait, and Jicky for the EDP.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
What do you prefer the EDT, EDP, or extrait? I guess the EDT is done for, I don't mind it wasn't my favorite. The extrait to me has a wonderful beragmont, but something about the concentration isn't my favorite. Mitsouko is my favorite extrait, and Jicky for the EDP.
I agree with you. EDP is my favorite Jicky concentration. I love the extrait, but EDP performs better on me - lasts for hours and is well rounded. I never cared for the EDT, too sharp. Mitsouko extrait is to die for!
 

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
I agree with you. EDP is my favorite Jicky concentration. I love the extrait, but EDP performs better on me - lasts for hours and is well rounded. I never cared for the EDT, too sharp. Mitsouko extrait is to die for!
Agree on the Mitsouko extrait. I'm also torn on the Vol de Nuit extrait it's also great.

I had great experiences with the EDP/PDT version of Jicky. This and extrait are my favorites for Jicky.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
I had great experiences with the EDP/PDT version of Jicky. This and extrait are my favorites for Jicky.
Jicky was an acquired taste for me. It was my least favorite of all the Guerlains for years, and then something clicked and I suddenly got it - tried different concentrations, and now it's one of my favorites. I'm tempted to get the current EDP. Wish I knew how it compares to the refillable EDP from 2016.
 

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
Jicky was an acquired taste for me. It was my least favorite of all the Guerlains for years, and then something clicked and I suddenly got it - tried different concentrations, and now it's one of my favorites. I'm tempted to get the current EDP. Wish I knew how it compares to the refillable EDP from 2016.
I'm a bit weary on the inverted heart shape bottles given all the unfavorable impressions of it.

I'd suggest putting the PDT bottle on your test list. I think you'll be amazed by it.
 

donna255

Well-known member
Jul 16, 2004
I always went for the PDT in Jicky even have a back-up bottle. Never tried the Bee bottles as they are from what I see on counter the EDT.

Totally agree with Mitsouko extract is mind-blowing fabulous. I think Guerlain have kept the extracts in all their fragrance really well.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
I always went for the PDT in Jicky even have a back-up bottle. Never tried the Bee bottles as they are from what I see on counter the EDT.

Totally agree with Mitsouko extract is mind-blowing fabulous. I think Guerlain have kept the extracts in all their fragrance really well.
Maybe I'll just go for the current extract, at some point. I've seen several favorable comments about the bee bottle, but Guerlain really is all about the extracts.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
The current jicky extrait is far better blended then the edp
Thanks for that input! There are quite a few vintage bottles that cost less than the current parfum, so that's probably the way I'll go.

ETA: Vintage Jicky PDT, so highly recommended, is rare as hens' teeth. I have L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Chamade, Samsara, Nahema and Shalimar PDT, and they're fabulous. So I'm sure that Jicky PDT would be the best way to go, overall...if only!
 
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GoldWineMemories

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2019
The current jicky extrait is far better blended then the edp

My personal take is disagreeing. I think the extrait is way too thick. Jicky is citrus & lavender , herbs de provence, drying down to spicy vanilla and civet. The EDP is airy on the top notes, and tenacious enough in the dry down to please. The extrait being plusher throws off that balance. Keep in mind though I'm basically arguing that EDP is a 10/10, and the current extrait is a 8.5/10, so both are wonderful.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
My personal take is disagreeing. I think the extrait is way too thick. Jicky is citrus & lavender , herbs de provence, drying down to spicy vanilla and civet. The EDP is airy on the top notes, and tenacious enough in the dry down to please. The extrait being plusher throws off that balance. Keep in mind though I'm basically arguing that EDP is a 10/10, and the current extrait is a 8.5/10, so both are wonderful.
Thanks for that! The EDP is reasonably priced, really can't hurt to order it...:devilish:
 

Paddington

Marmalade Sandwich Eater
Basenotes Plus
Jun 17, 2021
My personal take is disagreeing. I think the extrait is way too thick. Jicky is citrus & lavender , herbs de provence, drying down to spicy vanilla and civet. The EDP is airy on the top notes, and tenacious enough in the dry down to please. The extrait being plusher throws off that balance. Keep in mind though I'm basically arguing that EDP is a 10/10, and the current extrait is a 8.5/10, so both are wonderful.
fair enough I find the civet in the current edp quite screechy and unbalanced while with the extrait I find everything a more harmonious
 

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
You mean you've heard bad things about the juice, itself? I know you don't care for the bottle.
I always went for the PDT in Jicky even have a back-up bottle. Never tried the Bee bottles as they are from what I see on counter the EDT.

Totally agree with Mitsouko extract is mind-blowing fabulous. I think Guerlain have kept the extracts in all their fragrance really well.
I must have my Guerlains thick and heavy, that's always been my preference. My experiences with the extracts of current juices has been more favorable compared to its lighter concentrations.

I really don't like the recent design of the classic Guerlain bottles especially having all of the scents look alike.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
For anyone in the future researching modern Jicky, here's what I ended up doing - and the results:

I ordered a 2021 EDP in the new inverted heart bottle direct from Guerlain, and a reasonably priced 1987 spray parfum (1/4 ounce, metal canister, gold and black box) from eBay. Per a review on another site, the 2021 inverted heart bottle has the same product code as the 2018 bee bottle - so presumably it has not been reformulated since that year. My 2016 EDP in a metal canister has a different product code and (of course) an earlier batch code.

Certainly, the vintage parfum smells richer and is more nuanced than either of my EDP versions. But both the new inverted heart bottle and my 2016 bottle smell good, almost identical, and I do not think that 2021 Jicky EDP has been ruined (contrary to a few reviews I've read). Restrictions have worked a great hardship on all perfume houses, but Thierry Wasser has done a fine job of preserving the basic structure of Guerlain's classics. 2016 and 2021 Jicky EDP both smell like 1987 Jicky parfum (minus some vintage bells and whistles), that's the bottom line. The only appreciable difference between the 2021 and 2016 EDP is that the new one has a lot more civet, appearing after about an hour, and it lasts throughout the drydown. It can seem oppressive, but it's not horrible and might even be a selling point for some wearers. Also, I've only worn the 2021 version six times, and the civet could settle down with more time, maceration and oxygen exposure.

Overall, I don't think that Jicky admirers who are curious about the inverted heart bottle of EDP will be unhappy with it. Clearly, no modern version of Jicky will smell as glorious as its deep-vintage iterations; but the current EDP is less expensive than older bee and canister bottles available on eBay (albeit with less juice), and comparable in quality (unless one has an aversion to civet).
 

GoldWineMemories

Well-known member
Nov 22, 2019
For anyone in the future researching modern Jicky, here's what I ended up doing - and the results:

I ordered a 2021 EDP in the new inverted heart bottle direct from Guerlain, and a reasonably priced 1987 spray parfum (1/4 ounce, metal canister, gold and black box) from eBay. Per a review on another site, the 2021 inverted heart bottle has the same product code as the 2018 bee bottle - so presumably it has not been reformulated since that year. My 2016 EDP in a metal canister has a different product code and (of course) an earlier batch code.

Certainly, the vintage parfum smells richer and is more nuanced than either of my EDP versions. But both the new inverted heart bottle and my 2016 bottle smell good, almost identical, and I do not think that 2021 Jicky EDP has been ruined (contrary to a few reviews I've read). Restrictions have worked a great hardship on all perfume houses, but Thierry Wasser has done a fine job of preserving the basic structure of Guerlain's classics. 2016 and 2021 Jicky EDP both smell like 1987 Jicky parfum (minus some vintage bells and whistles), that's the bottom line. The only appreciable difference between the 2021 and 2016 EDP is that the new one has a lot more civet, appearing after about an hour, and it lasts throughout the drydown. It can seem oppressive, but it's not horrible and might even be a selling point for some wearers. Also, I've only worn the 2021 version six times, and the civet could settle down with more time, maceration and oxygen exposure.

Overall, I don't think that Jicky admirers who are curious about the inverted heart bottle of EDP will be unhappy with it. Clearly, no modern version of Jicky will smell as glorious as its deep-vintage iterations; but the current EDP is less expensive than older bee and canister bottles available on eBay (albeit with less juice), and comparable in quality (unless one has an aversion to civet).
Absolutely wonderful news. I'm not the biggest fan of Wasser's original creations, but his love & dedication towards Guerlain's classics is to be admired.
 

Varanis Ridari

The Scented Devil
Basenotes Plus
Oct 17, 2012
I've heard that, but have never smelled Mouchoir de Monsieur (in any concentration).
It's basically "fougère-ified" Jicky for the men back at the turn of the 20th century who absolutely would not wear a shared fragrance even if they liked it.

I read it was originally made as a wedding gift for a friend of Jacques Guerlain and never meant for the public; but in the quantities he had to make it for refills, people who knew about it could ask to fill a bottle with it, until it was eventually bottled and produced for sale officially.

Compared to my Jicky extrait, it's marginally less complex, more lavender forward, less patchouli to blend it down so the civet really pounces and smells super dirty in the opening.

Honestly not quite as good, and I'd reach for Caron Pour Un Homme (1934) first over it, but still a neat little bit of dandy perfumery.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
It's basically "fougère-ified" Jicky for the men back at the turn of the 20th century who absolutely would not wear a shared fragrance even if they liked it.

I read it was originally made as a wedding gift for a friend of Jacques Guerlain and never meant for the public; but in the quantities he had to make it for refills, people who knew about it could ask to fill a bottle with it, until it was eventually bottled and produced for sale officially.

Compared to my Jicky extrait, it's marginally less complex, more lavender forward, less patchouli to blend it down so the civet really pounces and smells super dirty in the opening.

Honestly not quite as good, and I'd reach for Caron Pour Un Homme (1934) first over it, but still a neat little bit of dandy perfumery.
Very interesting...thank you! I love reading the backstories of Guerlain perfumes (Caron, too).
 

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