Ivy leaf & blackcurrant leaf aroma chemicals

LeighAnne

Active member
Jan 25, 2016
Hi all,

I'm looking for 2 green aroma chemicals:

1) Ivy leaf. I've come across "Ivy Base" (Symrise) and "Ivy carbaldehyde" but haven't smelt them, any advice?
2) Blackcurrant leaf. Somebody mentioned Cassis (for the black current leaf) but looking into that sound like it going to be more the bud than the leaf?

Thank you!
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Glycolierral is a very quiet material, and even though present in a few perfumes at high percentage, it seems best if you are using primarily low impact materials, and restricted to an EU/IFRA pallette.

Ivy Carbaldehyde/Triplal, OTOH, is quite loud and strong, and use might be miniscule in an accord.
The Ivy Bases from Symrise and Givaudan are both nice...

Stemone would certainly, and Green Acetate might also, lend themselves to an ivy leaf accord.

Green pea pyrazine in small amounts might also be helpful... http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1008661.html

I've not consciously noted Black Currant leaf in my knowledge base, but since the buds are in the direction of Buchu, why not try one of the mildest Buchu oils from SA, in minute amount. I do see that Black Currant Leaf does have a TGSC entry page, but no vendors or organoleptic notes are mentioned. Nor does an entry appear in Arctander...

PK
 
Last edited:

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Found this on Black Currant Leaves EO:

"the essential oil of black currant leaves (0.02% of fresh weight) was found to contain the following compounds in order of elution from a silicone column: α-pinene (1.5%), myrcene (0.6%), oct-I-en-3-ol (6.3%), car-3-ene (19.2%), p-cymene (1.5%), m-cymene (1.5%), limonene (3.3%), β-ocimene X (1.6%), β-phellandrene (2.4%), I-methyl-4-isopropenyl-benzene (1.3%), linaloöl (3.6%), terpinen-4-ol (0.6%), methyl salicylate (1.6%), geraniol (6.0%), citronellyl acetate (0.9%), caryophyllene (16.8%) and humulene (2.0%)."

With a yield of EO from the natural material @ 0.02%, I can see that this would be a very expensive product, and likely have a limited market.
My Suggestion of substituting Buchu EO, would then be out of line with the GC quoted above... Buchu would NOT be a good substitute.

It seems that t
he glycerolipid composition of Ribes nigrum (blackcurrant) leaves (fatty acid composition), was the large bulk of materials in the leaves, which is so very quiet in terms of using in perfumery. Fatty acids like these have only a limited application in Perfumery.


 

LeighAnne

Active member
Jan 25, 2016
Thank you PK, this was a big help. I think, the Ivy, heading for the Ivy base(s) is a good start.
Re the black current leaf, I think Im going to try wrangle an accord, that breakdown of the oil you posted will point me in the right direction.
 

julian35

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 28, 2009
Thanks Julian! Im going to give it a bash

Just had another smell of it. To my nose there is a strong Methyl Octine Carbonate component to this base which is of the violet green family, so makes perfect sense.
(I believe Methyl Octine Carbonate is a major ingredient used in Fahrenheit, though it's use is now restricted due to sensitization. ... and there is also a pretty good replacer)
Ivy Base is still strong on the strip after 12 hours, and has the effect of skinning a mandarin. that fresh, green burst of smell when you first put your thumb into the skin.
 

LeighAnne

Active member
Jan 25, 2016
Ivy base really sounds fantastic. I'm curious to play with Ivy as one of my favorite scents is Diptyque Eau de Lierre, it's quite a linear fragrance, Diptyque does the greens so well. It's also their L'Ombre dans l'Eau that got me curious about blackcurrant leaves.
As a self-diagnosed cis-3-Hexenol addict, its becoming clear just how much I like the greens!
Thanks again Julian
 

JohnPal

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2016
I'm a green fan as well. I appreciate the two Diptyque suggestions and will seek out decants of them.
Neat cassis bud abs (that I received a sample of from Eden) is a strange one. As a landscape gardener I've had occasion to smell crushed currant leaves, and while it is along the same lines, I imagine something like Cis-3-Hexenol to be an acceptable substitute.. possibly an accord made of a combination of those two materials would work...??
Ivy leaves have a very specific scent and I'm anxious to seek out fragrances that are along their lines!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

David Ruskin

Well-known member
May 28, 2009
Found this on Black Currant Leaves EO:

"[FONT=&]the essential oil of black currant leaves (0.02% of fresh weight) was found to contain the following compounds in order of elution from a silicone column: α-pinene (1.5%), myrcene (0.6%), oct-I-en-3-ol (6.3%), car-3-ene (19.2%), p-cymene (1.5%), m-cymene (1.5%), limonene (3.3%), β-ocimene X (1.6%), β-phellandrene (2.4%), I-methyl-4-isopropenyl-benzene (1.3%), linaloöl (3.6%), terpinen-4-ol (0.6%), methyl salicylate (1.6%), geraniol (6.0%), citronellyl acetate (0.9%), caryophyllene (16.8%) and humulene (2.0%)."

With a yield of EO from the natural material @ 0.02%, I can see that this would be a very expensive product, and likely have a limited market.
My Suggestion of substituting Buchu EO, would then be out of line with the GC quoted above... Buchu would NOT be a good substitute.

It seems that t[/FONT]
he glycerolipid composition of Ribes nigrum (blackcurrant) leaves (fatty acid composition), was the large bulk of materials in the leaves, which is so very quiet in terms of using in perfumery. Fatty acids like these have only a limited application in Perfumery.
[FONT=&]

[/FONT]

Interesting that the most important chemical responsible for the smell of Blackcurrant is not found in your list. The chemical is called Buchu Mercaptan (para menth-8-thiol). It is very strong, and in the analysis there was probably too little present for it to be noticed. Bourgeons de Cassis absolute (Blackcurrant Buds absolute) is used in many fragrances. A little goes a long way, which is lucky as it is very expensive. Buchu oil can also be used.

For Ivy, as well as the suggestions already made, have a look at Maceal or Isofreshal.
 

editorinscent

Well-known member
Oct 3, 2007
Resurrecting an old thread here; I have been constructing a rose / blackcurrant fragrance, and I know for a fact that Diptyque L'ombre dans l'eau uses the Cassis Base 345B from Firmenich. It really is a complex beast, I've been working with it for a while, and I Can see how it can have tons of effect and many uses across genres of fragrance.
 

MezNez

Well-known member
Dec 3, 2017
Folione(MHC)... maybe helps it. and Undecavertol.
to me, Triplal is too tomato leaf so I recommend Vertoliff instead. and dynascone.
 
Last edited:

TheScentOfThis

Well-known member
Aug 21, 2017
Resurrecting an old thread here; I have been constructing a rose / blackcurrant fragrance, and I know for a fact that Diptyque L'ombre dans l'eau uses the Cassis Base 345B from Firmenich. It really is a complex beast, I've been working with it for a while, and I Can see how it can have tons of effect and many uses across genres of fragrance.

Thanks Runstile, I actually ordered some Firmenich Cassis Base a couple months back, and as you say, the moment I smelt it I could smell Diptyque L'ombre dans l'eau (I'm super familiar with it as I wore it for years). Its got a hell of a punch! I've only briefly played around with it, but it's incredible how the tiniest bit goes miles. Thank for the input
 

Staff online

Latest News

Top