ISO E & Hedione - Observations and Perceived Effects

[Deleted member 26348570]

I'd like to briefly state that Hedione & IES is frequently discussed on these forums, although I'd like to share my experience and observations thus far of "my perceived" interpretation of the effects and potential uses of these aroma-chemicals, respectively.

ISO E Super: I've been considered one of the few people that are potentially anosmic to the aroma profile. Let's just say my impressions are that this particular aroma profile is very mellow, mild, woody, velvety, smooth, and inconspicuously powerful.

This aroma chemical should be used very carefully as it's rounding effects are quite apparent in the 1-3% range (This is a great range for increasing some projection). Furthermore, It's an impeccable fixative that I've not experienced with any other aroma chemical. In my personal experience, it absolutely subdues the power of anything more volatile (e.g. top notes). I compare this fixative effect to a faucet, slowing down the evaporation of molecules, but with a sacrifice of power. This powerful fixative effect is not observed with any base notes, musks, low odor, even natural oils. Lastly, it should be mentioned that IES will inherently alter your overall perfume's scent and it should be considered when incorporating into your formula.

Hedione: A beautiful clean jasmine aroma that is heavy, and if not carefully incorporated can destroy your perfume.

I consider this an optional floralizer/freshener aroma chemical that will soften the overall perfume. I have not observed any outstanding fixative effects, however some are noted. Some projection is noted in properly dosed amounts, although conversely, one can observe opposite effects occurring if overdose. I personally don't consider this aroma chemical "transparent" as it's famous for. If one considers this AC as "transparent", they are not truly evaluating the overall profile of their perfume correctly.


This is my experience with these two popular aroma chemicals, I hope it may help those who frequently use them or for new perfumers wondering what the hype is about.

 

[Stevenat]

Great post! I would amplify the point that "transparency" is not an intrinsic property of a single aromamaterial, but rather is relational between at least two materials. Hedione & IES can each be very transparent to some particular scents, while being very opaque to others.

 

[xii]

Great post! I would amplify the point that "transparency" is not an intrinsic property of a single aromamaterial, but rather is relational between at least two materials. Hedione & IES can each be very transparent to some particular scents, while being very opaque to others.

Great answer! It implies the only definition of transparency I can process and apply.

 

[NarcisoM]

An opinion from an newbie here: I think that when we talk about overdoses of Hedione and IES, it all depends on the rest of the blend. At what point IES or Hedione start to be considered as overdosed? In some formulas, maybe %30 of Hedione can be insufficient. In other formulas, %20 can be way too high. Also, I think it can be built a perfume with around %90 IES and %10 ot different materials, and still get something interesting.

 

[Deleted member 26348570]

An opinion from an newbie here: I think that when we talk about overdoses of Hedione and IES, it all depends on the rest of the blend. At what point IES or Hedione start to be considered as overdosed? In some formulas, maybe %30 of Hedione can be insufficient. In other formulas, %20 can be way too high. Also, I think it can be built a perfume with around %90 IES and %10 ot different materials, and still get something interesting.

The word "overdose" in the original post is arbitrary. I'm sure many experienced DIY's have encountered this and as you've noted it is relative to each formula or perfume. Now, one should consider what the performance would be when using 90% IES and 10% other. Interesting effects, maybe, but performance (e.g. projection or sillage) would be questionable.

 

[Stevenat]

The word "overdose" in the original post is arbitrary. I'm sure many experienced DIY's have encountered this and as you've noted it is relative to each formula or perfume. Now, one should consider what the performance would be when using 90% IES and 10% other. Interesting effects, maybe, but performance (e.g. projection or sillage) would be questionable.

It's an interesting (maybe?) challenge, but I think one could probably make a fragrance with strong performance at 90% IES by filling the remaining 10% with super high impact molecules. Maybe I'll try something today.

 

[Stevenat]

The word "overdose" in the original post is arbitrary. I'm sure many experienced DIY's have encountered this and as you've noted it is relative to each formula or perfume. Now, one should consider what the performance would be when using 90% IES and 10% other. Interesting effects, maybe, but performance (e.g. projection or sillage) would be questionable.

OK just made 90% IES, 4% peonile, 4% norlimbanol, 2% cyclopidene at 5% in EtOH. Sprayed on skin, the performance is not at all questionable. I'm not saying it's a good perfume, but it certainly performs well.

 

[Casper_grassy]

I think the confusion of Hediones transparency comes from evaluating on a strip. Though I’m not the largest fan of Hedione, it does cause many effects in blends and has ever changing facets dependent on its surroundings.

Even .5% can cause many changes, more specifically IME on citruses, even more specifically Lemon. It is a decent floralizer and can obv be used in EVERY floral accord if wanted (I’m all the way Benzyl Salicylate lol)

I also think it is rather misconstrued that people think perfumers make formulas THEN ADD hedione, where it is really built WITH or ON. And just to add something that I think is most probably the top priority of fragrance houses is knowing the super affordability of Both Hedione and IES, and profit is the main driving factor. Any “selfless” made perfumes will never reach your shelf.

 

[Stevenat]

I think the confusion of Hediones transparency comes from evaluating on a strip. Though I’m not the largest fan of Hedione, it does cause many effects in blends and has ever changing facets dependent on its surroundings.

Even .5% can cause many changes, more specifically IME on citruses, even more specifically Lemon. It is a decent floralizer and can obv be used in EVERY floral accord if wanted (I’m all the way Benzyl Salicylate lol)

I also think it is rather misconstrued that people think perfumers make formulas THEN ADD hedione, where it is really built WITH or ON. And just to add something that I think is most probably the top priority of fragrance houses is knowing the super affordability of Both Hedione and IES, and profit is the main driving factor. Any “selfless” made perfumes will never reach your shelf.

My experience is that evaluating on strips can be very misleading when it comes to complex blends. I think this is because the strip dramatically spreads out evaporation curves in the time dimension, particularly those of less tenacious molecules. And the strip holds on to very tenacious molecules (like hedione, musks, etc) super tightly, and thus understates their impact.

 

[Casper_grassy]

My experience is that evaluating on strips can be very misleading when it comes to complex blends. I think this is because the strip dramatically spreads out evaporation curves in the time dimension, particularly those of less tenacious molecules. And the strip holds on to very tenacious molecules (like hedione, musks, etc) super tightly, and thus understates their impact.

Absolutely!! That’s why I’m saying I believe that could be why hedione is considered transparent, as opposed to in blends where it changes

 

[Stevenat]

Absolutely!! That’s why I’m saying I believe that could be why hedione is considered transparent, as opposed to in blends where it changes

Yes, exactly.

 

[Blain]

What type of paper are strips created from? Is the paper coated in any way to slow absorption?

 

[Deleted member 26348570]

I’m 99% sure that I’m not very sensitive, most likely anosmic to ISO E. I just added 10% to a basic blend and the only noticeable change was dampening of aroma. To me, it’s effects are perceivable when smaller amounts are added. These observations are only from skin and not atomized in the air.

I think because hedione has a sweet, clean, jasmine note, without any distinct floral character; it can become transparent if blended correctly. In contrast, some aroma chemicals stand out in power and character. Maybe jasmine is just that clean (I can’t speak to jasmine essential oil as I’ve never smelled it)

 

[Will1968]

I'd like to briefly state that Hedione & IES is frequently discussed on these forums, although I'd like to share my experience and observations thus far of "my perceived" interpretation of the effects and potential uses of these aroma-chemicals, respectively.

ISO E Super: I've been considered one of the few people that are potentially anosmic to the aroma profile. Let's just say my impressions are that this particular aroma profile is very mellow, mild, woody, velvety, smooth, and inconspicuously powerful.

This aroma chemical should be used very carefully as it's rounding effects are quite apparent in the 1-3% range (This is a great range for increasing some projection). Furthermore, It's an impeccable fixative that I've not experienced with any other aroma chemical. In my personal experience, it absolutely subdues the power of anything more volatile (e.g. top notes). I compare this fixative effect to a faucet, slowing down the evaporation of molecules, but with a sacrifice of power. This powerful fixative effect is not observed with any base notes, musks, low odor, even natural oils. Lastly, it should be mentioned that IES will inherently alter your overall perfume's scent and it should be considered when incorporating into your formula.

Hedione: A beautiful clean jasmine aroma that is heavy, and if not carefully incorporated can destroy your perfume.

I consider this an optional floralizer/freshener aroma chemical that will soften the overall perfume. I have not observed any outstanding fixative effects, however some are noted. Some projection is noted in properly dosed amounts, although conversely, one can observe opposite effects occurring if overdose. I personally don't consider this aroma chemical "transparent" as it's famous for. If one considers this AC as "transparent", they are not truly evaluating the overall profile of their perfume correctly.


This is my experience with these two popular aroma chemicals, I hope it may help those who frequently use them or for new perfumers wondering what the hype is about.

I have a few Hedione rich scents such as Eau Sauvage and Fahrenheit,both Dior fragrances btw and love this molecule, but the other day I was browsing and found the original blue gold German Eau De cologne 4711, I remember this from yrs ago as being very crisp and powerful and fell in love with it all over again. Will be buying again very soon.

 

[Will1968]

I'd like to briefly state that Hedione & IES is frequently discussed on these forums, although I'd like to share my experience and observations thus far of "my perceived" interpretation of the effects and potential uses of these aroma-chemicals, respectively.

ISO E Super: I've been considered one of the few people that are potentially anosmic to the aroma profile. Let's just say my impressions are that this particular aroma profile is very mellow, mild, woody, velvety, smooth, and inconspicuously powerful.

This aroma chemical should be used very carefully as it's rounding effects are quite apparent in the 1-3% range (This is a great range for increasing some projection). Furthermore, It's an impeccable fixative that I've not experienced with any other aroma chemical. In my personal experience, it absolutely subdues the power of anything more volatile (e.g. top notes). I compare this fixative effect to a faucet, slowing down the evaporation of molecules, but with a sacrifice of power. This powerful fixative effect is not observed with any base notes, musks, low odor, even natural oils. Lastly, it should be mentioned that IES will inherently alter your overall perfume's scent and it should be considered when incorporating into your formula.

Hedione: A beautiful clean jasmine aroma that is heavy, and if not carefully incorporated can destroy your perfume.

I consider this an optional floralizer/freshener aroma chemical that will soften the overall perfume. I have not observed any outstanding fixative effects, however some are noted. Some projection is noted in properly dosed amounts, although conversely, one can observe opposite effects occurring if overdose. I personally don't consider this aroma chemical "transparent" as it's famous for. If one considers this AC as "transparent", they are not truly evaluating the overall profile of their perfume correctly.


This is my experience with these two popular aroma chemicals, I hope it may help those who frequently use them or for new perfumers wondering what the hype is about.

I tend to agree but I love both of these molecules in their own right. I recently purchased on eBay UK a 10ml vial of ISO E Super and Hedione mixed together. I wore it at work and had one particular girl flirting blatantly which was the intention but will definitely buy again for £7.50.

 

[NarcisoM]

I tend to agree but I love both of these molecules in their own right. I recently purchased on eBay UK a 10ml vial of ISO E Super and Hedione mixed together. I wore it at work and had one particular girl flirting blatantly which was the intention but will definitely buy again for £7.50.

Almost %99 sure the flirting had nothing to do with IES and Hedione. We all wanted life works that way, but, unfortunately, it ain´t that simple.

 

[Will1968]

Almost %99 sure the flirting had nothing to do with IES and Hedione. We all wanted life works that way, but, unfortunately, it ain´t that simple.

I'm a naturally flirty guy anyways but never really flirted with this particular girl just noticed she was more forward than usual.

 

[emrego]

I can't help but stressing the importance of the "supplier" and the "quality" of Hedione. In my experience, one can easily register Hedione as an overrated material, not doing much, not smelling that good, etc. etc. if the opinions are based on one single supplier with below average quality product. Besides natural ingredients, I haven't seen many ACs that is as fragile as Hedione (maybe cinnamal aldehydes too).

In my experience, the Hedione I got from Perfumer's World and Hekserij were completely different. It is hard for us to confirm if we are getting a fresh product, from a reputable producer or some generic variety or a product that is already started to spoil, and what not. Hedione can go off very easily if not stored in the fridge (and even then, it is still delicate, Hedione HC is even more fragile in that sense).

So until I am 100% certain that I'm smelling the top quality, fresh, authentic Hedione from a reputable producer, I tend to put a grain of salt to anything I read or tell about Hedione.

 

[Deleted member 26348570]

I can't help but stressing the importance of the "supplier" and the "quality" of Hedione. In my experience, one can easily register Hedione as an overrated material, not doing much, not smelling that good, etc. etc. if the opinions are based on one single supplier with below average quality product. Besides natural ingredients, I haven't seen many ACs that is as fragile as Hedione (maybe cinnamal aldehydes too).

In my experience, the Hedione I got from Perfumer's World and Hekserij were completely different. It is hard for us to confirm if we are getting a fresh product, from a reputable producer or some generic variety or a product that is already started to spoil, and what not. Hedione can go off very easily if not stored in the fridge (and even then, it is still delicate, Hedione HC is even more fragile in that sense).

So until I am 100% certain that I'm smelling the top quality, fresh, authentic Hedione from a reputable producer, I tend to put a grain of salt to anything I read or tell about Hedione.

I’ve experienced spoiled hedione, and a great way to identify spoiled hedione is the color of the liquid. Normally a clear liquid, the spoiled hedione inherited a dark brown hue; obviously there was an associated fowl smell, something like rotting flowers if that is such a thing.

 

[emrego]

I’ve experienced spoiled hedione, and a great way to identify spoiled hedione is the color of the liquid. Normally a clear liquid, the spoiled hedione inherited a dark brown hue; obviously there was an associated fowl smell, something like rotting flowers if that is such a thing.

For me, the clear signal is the smell. When Hedione starts to smell like milk vomit, it will only get worse. That's it, milk vomit.

Didn't pay attention to color though, good note!