Hows the house of Nishane? Any masterpieces?

Mak-7

Well-known member
Sep 19, 2019
Do you not read reviews here or at Fragrantica or at Parfumo or at the vast number of other sites on the internet?

If you cant directly answer the question, dont post anything. Review of each specific perfume versus overall opinion about the house are different things.
 

Mak-7

Well-known member
Sep 19, 2019
You didn't directly answer the question, either, so why are you posting?

I am interested in the topic that is posted, and value actual answers. When your post appeared just telling OP to go do their research on their own, that post brought no value and i wanted to voice it to stop future answers like that. So my post even though doesnt provide answer to question, stops further useless posts like yours.
 

AAVDB

Well-known member
Sep 24, 2017
I only tried one, that is Musiqa Oud. After the sample I bought a bottle! It's one of my favorites, but it's my first extract as well so for me this was bombastic.
Looking forward to try Hacivat, although it's nice to read some negative things about it instead of only the raging about how great it is.
 

gerbick

Well-known member
Jun 13, 2009
So far, only Fan Your Flames stood out to me the most. I have yet to purchase a full bottle; but I guess that disqualifies it as a masterpiece.
 

FragFrog

Well-known member
Oct 6, 2018
Haven't tried them (all) but thank you very much guys for your honesty.

I always felt that Nishane is the latest hype after Initio so I kept an eye on them.
But now I'm sure that I don't need to waste money on their samples.

I stick with my PdMs, haha. :tongue: :laugh:
 
May 18, 2016
Nothing stood out for me. I tried a handful including Fan Your Flames and Ani. Both were pretty meh. Ani was quite medicinal. I don't like Hacivat at all either. I did like Nishane Colognise though. That seemed like a nice scent for hot weather. Safran Colognise was nice too though I prefer the saffron in Tuscan Leather and find it a note better suited in heavier stuff.
 

deltasun

Well-known member
Jun 12, 2017
Pretty big fan of the house, though I agree I'm not ready to call any a masterpiece. I've tried quite a bit, and own full bottles of:

Ani - nutty vanillic (not sure where the nuttiness comes from), with a bit of ginger
Fan Your Flames - tobacco, rum, coconut; quite the compliment-getter for me
Ambra Calabria - similar to Xerjoff's Nio, but creamier
Spice Bazaar - great articulation of spices; ginger, cardamom, cinammon are prominent

Wanted to like Sultan Vetiver, which seems to be popular as well, but did not quite like it. Will be adding Safran Colognise probably at some point, and would really like to try Nefs.
 

Buzzlepuff

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 27, 2005
My three favorites from Nishane are:

Boszporusz - a top ten oceanic fragrance. Smells very true to ocean water at oceanside.
Spice Bazaar - also is a top ten spice fragrance. Only one or two spice scents I like more than this one.
Hacivat - a pure pineapple fresh fragrance that really lasts. Not an Aventus clone - its all fruit.

Nishane of Istanbul is a better than average fragrance company. All their fragrances are interestingly different. Are any on masterpiece level? No, but most houses don't have masterpiece fragrances.
 
Jul 7, 2012
Hacivat is brutal. Smashed glass and razorblades scattered over sandpaper is smoother than the harsh chemical nonsense base of Hacivat.

I was so excited to try that one, and I was shocked by how much I couldn't stand it. I couldn't even scrub it off. Hacivat is brutal.
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
I wonder how everybody here can be so sure that there are no masterpieces, since Nishane offers ~30 different fragrances, there is no sampler kit available, and I sincerely doubt that everybody owns the full collection...
Anyways, I blind bought 2 of them based on reviews (the only 2 I've smelt as of today), and can already tell that trying them on paper is just like NOT having tried them. One may like or not their scents, but unless you test on skin, you'll never know, because it's not in their openings that they shine the most. Their beauty stands in their complex evolution on the skin. And wow!... What a journey!!!


- Afrika Olifant, by Jorge Lee: stunning. Far from being a stinker (as some describe it). It's a fragrance centered on oud and musk (in which the oud is round/barnyard-ish but not fecal and the musk smooth but not soapy), with a resinous opening and animalic notes support (with a vague similarity to the animalics in Robert Piguet Oud, but in AO it's less pungent). It shares noticeable similarities with Orto Parisi Stercus (especially in the drydown), with the oud being toned-done, the animalics amped-up, and overall a bit more refined compared to Stercus. The impression of an elephant cage is spot-on imo. Despite that image, I think that it is extremely wearable, by both genders. Good to great performance.

- Unutamam, by Miguel Matos: an amazing animalic fougere/amber (yes, it's possible!). Starts with a blast of photorealistic mint supported by aromatic notes, animalics and florals. Then, the mint tones down to leave the stage entirely to the lavender (of the highest possible quality) and the now co-starring animalic notes. While not exactly similar, it is impossible at that stage not to think at Bogue MEM, for the structure, the artistry and the quality of ingredients, but Unutamam is more wearable imo.
Then, the opera hall goes into the dark, and slowly the spotlight switches on again: everybody has disappeared from the stage, and now a beautiful labdanum note stands alone, except for a shy cumin note that, combined with the labdanum, will give an overall impression of smooth caramel. (remotely reminding me of SL Le Participe Passe' at that point). Nuclear performance.


While neither AO or Unutamam are identical to the fragrances I'm comparing them with (only similarities), I may suspect that they got at least inspired from these. But actually, I would choose both AO and U over Stercus and MEM, because of wearability and fine tuning.
Overall: I think these are overpriced (but I think that of many fragrances, including Stercus and, most of all, MEM), but, if like I did, you can find them at discounters, I think they are well worth it. If not, I would at least suggest to get a decant.

Masterpieces? These 2 have top quality, high creativity (even if not absolutely unique-smelling for who previously bumped on the OP and the Bogue), and a unique enough wow factor to deserve the masterpiece title in my book. Next in line: Sultan Vetiver and Safran Colognise', looking forward to smell these ones (and to find a great deal).
 
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CaineBCN

Active member
Apr 26, 2018
Maybe not "masterpieces" but Unutamam and Nefs are both really good. Actually I ordered Unutamam the other day, and I also would definitely buy Nefs if it wasn't for the price (more than $500, ouch!).
 

oudaddict

Well-known member
Feb 2, 2017
I think it's probably wrong to use "masterpiece" for a fragrance because perfumery is more like baking and chemistry rather than art.

However, in art for something to be a masterpiece it would have to be extremely unique, receive widespread critical acclaim, have tons of skill, time, energy and effort poured into it, and it must evoke strong emotions in the person experiencing it. How many fragrances do you know that truly tick all of these boxes?
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
How many fragrances do you know that truly tick all of these boxes?

I have Unutamam and Afrika Olifant

"However, in art for something to be a masterpiece it would have to be:

- extremely unique: extremely no, because I managed to identify two fragrances that have same vibes. But honestly, just 2 (and I smell a lot). So unique enough I would say.
YES!

- receive widespread critical acclaim
Art and Olfaction Awards are going to happen soon, and my guess is that one of these two is going to get something (Unumatam). Afrika Olifant has been praised by several - honest - niche reviewers (But also a few dishonest), and it is enough to read the first reviews to realize that these 2 are pretty unique. (Unutamam is quite fresh, so may not yet have had much feedback). So I'd say, more YES than no.

- have tons of skill, time, energy and effort poured into it.
To start a business in today's Turkey, trust me, you need a lot of energy. AO has been blended by Jorge Lee, and Unumatam by Miguel Matos, two rising perfumers (Matos is also a writer for Fragrantica, and has already had some moderate success with his own brand and with Sarah Baker). So YES!

- and it must evoke strong emotions in the person experiencing it.
Maaaaannnnn..... get your nose on these two! A big YEEESSSS!!!!!

So, in the best case I'm describing masterpieces, in the worst, these 2 are "just" stunning.


I may have been lucky (or more probably I did well my homework on forums, review pages, blogs and various youtube channels, before pulling the trigger), but honeslty, these two tick all my boxes, and after owning ~250 bottles, I can tell you that I start to be quite difficult. Hard for a frag to "wow" me easily at this point. And I'm lucky enough that it happened 4 times with the last 4 frags I received (the other two are Biehl AL03 and Mona di Orio Vetyver)

Disclosure: I do NOT get any free juice from Nishane. Just to be clear :lolk:
 

Buzzlepuff

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 27, 2005
I also have Suede et Safran and Afrika Oliphant. They are unique and creative, but masterpieces? no, in my opinion.
Afrika Oliphant opens with wild robust floral musk which I want to scrub off because its way over the top - a carnival festival of punchy aroma. But, after about 30 minutes the base which is an earthy dry peppery leather starts to emerge and overtakes the opening with an animalic type leather which eventually becomes the true character of the scent - and I like it! What a development! The only other fragrance that I've tried that has a similar base is Zoologist T Rex which keeps that harsh leather all the way through. I like Afrika Oliphant though not a masterpiece it is truly a creative work of art.
Suede et Safran is an outstanding saffron suede light leather, but its flaw, for my taste, is that the tone of the scent stays so light in color that it feels too feminine for me to want to wear it often. But, as a feminine suede leather saffron scent it is outstanding.

All of the Nishane scents I have tried have this very highly styled characteristic that makes them each very unique and specific and will not be loved by the masses but appreciated by the few for their originality and artistic quality, which is very evolved.

Test Nishane to decide for yourself. They might be a masterpiece for only you and no one else.
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
I am interested in the topic that is posted, and value actual answers. When your post appeared just telling OP to go do their research on their own, that post brought no value and i wanted to voice it to stop future answers like that. So my post even though doesnt provide answer to question, stops further useless posts like yours.

You're not bringing as much value as you think. This post of yours is pretty useless, too. It hasn't stopped me and just further clogs up the thread.

So I guess you aren't any better than me.

Hey kids, you stop now! Otherwise I'll spank you, and send you both straight to bed without getting any Nishane! :angry:
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
I also have Suede et Safran and Afrika Oliphant. They are unique and creative, but masterpieces? no, in my opinion.
Afrika Oliphant opens with wild robust floral musk which I want to scrub off because its way over the top - a carnival festival of punchy aroma. But, after about 30 minutes the base which is an earthy dry peppery leather starts to emerge and overtakes the opening with an animalic type leather which eventually becomes the true character of the scent - and I like it! What a development! The only other fragrance that I've tried that has a similar base is Zoologist T Rex which keeps that harsh leather all the way through. I like Afrika Oliphant though not a masterpiece it is truly a creative work of art.
Suede et Safran is an outstanding saffron suede light leather, but its flaw, for my taste, is that the tone of the scent stays so light in color that it feels too feminine for me to want to wear it often. But, as a feminine suede leather saffron scent it is outstanding.

All of the Nishane scents I have tried have this very highly styled characteristic that makes them each very unique and specific and will not be loved by the masses but appreciated by the few for their originality and artistic quality, which is very evolved.

Test Nishane to decide for yourself. They might be a masterpiece for only you and no one else.

Thanks for sharing your thought on these!
Ok... I'll give it to you, Afrika Olifant is a great one, but not a masterpiece. That said, Unutamam... I strongly suggest you put your nose on that one!

If a "creative work of art" is not yet a masterpiece for you, what would be your criterias to get the masterpiece medal? Or which indie frag do you consider a masterpiece? (that may be simplier that way)
 

blackaroma

Well-known member
Apr 16, 2020
Depends almost solely on one's taste and how low you put the bar for that "masterpiece", in my book there aren't many houses with such achievement and Nishane isn't among those few, I rank them way above likes of PdM/Initio, beside likes of Profumo Roma and LM Parfums and under likes of Jovoy or Terenzi. Solid diversity, quality and at times creative, no masterpieces for me. I'd add African Olifant to those mentioned as try worthy, if only you like animalics.
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
Depends almost solely on one's taste and how low you put the bar for that "masterpiece", in my book there aren't many houses with such achievement and Nishane isn't among those few, I rank them way above likes of PdM/Initio, beside likes of Profumo Roma and LM Parfums and under likes of Jovoy or Terenzi. Solid diversity, quality and at times creative, no masterpieces for me. I'd add African Olifant to those mentioned as try worthy, if only you like animalics.

I'm not sure how you can rank a full house as masterpiece level or not. Many houses did great stuff, and these same house also made several lemons.
For how much I like several of Jovoy and Terenzi, I can also list many of these houses that are useless. Also, it depends what criterias one uses... if it's creativity, some frags of Terenzi may fit, but I can;t see a single one of Jovoy. Jovoy uses high quality ingredients, but the combinations of notes are quite classic. Still, I'm in love with several of these, and think that several are masterpieces, like Unumatam. Both some of Jovoy and Terenzi are simply disgusting.... Say XIX March, foconero or Porpora, other are ok but with concepts seen many times before, like Orion, Maremma, Gold Rose Oudh, Al Contrario, Ecstasy, and some others deserve their attention like Dionisio, Chimaera, Ursa and Laudano Nero. But are they bringing a revolutionnary combination of notes? They are all there well tuned, but there's nothing new with the abergris/vanilla combo, nor with the Tobacco/Oud Gourmand combo, nor with the leather/vetiver combo, nor with the incense/booze/vanilla...

Afrika Olifant is indeed using the well known oud/musk combo, improving it with the myrrh opening and animalic twist, so no news (even if it may actually the one that I love the most).
Unumatam, at the opposite..... Photorealistic Mint that puts Mousse Illuminee to shame and aromatics, then top-notch quality lavender, florals, and animalics (a stage that only the superstar Bogue Mem did before them), then mossy/animalic labdanum with spice giving an impression of caramel..... really? If Matos gets an award this year, I wouldn't be surprised honestly (and in thsi case it would be justified).
 

blackaroma

Well-known member
Apr 16, 2020
I didn't rank them as having more masterpieces in it. Just dropped some gut feelings, let's say personal hit rate, as I saw some brand names dropped earlier.

The topic isn't the most clear question anyway. I mean what is even a masterpiece? To me it should definitely break ground and not be boring, superior to others in its bracket or have at least an X factor that blows me away but some ppl are lucky enough to consider any top seller a masterpiece, unfortunately I don't.
 

bigtyivier2k2

Well-known member
May 7, 2011
I am interested in the topic that is posted, and value actual answers. When your post appeared just telling OP to go do their research on their own, that post brought no value and i wanted to voice it to stop future answers like that. So my post even though doesnt provide answer to question, stops further useless posts like yours.

Thanks, and agreed with you. Otherwise whats the point of a fragrance forum.
 

NickZee

Well-known member
Sep 19, 2014
It’s a great house for me because I love patchouli and Nishane have two amazing patch offerings: Kozha and Munegu. My exposure is limited but here are my thoughts:

Pachuli kozha
is a brilliant blend of leather, patchouli and honey, borrowing the classic accord from Givenchy Gentleman, but made much darker with an untamed patchouli, black pepper and incense. The honey plays a minor role, smoothing the edges ever so slightly. This is one of the greatest “black leather jacket” fragrances.

Munegu
is a stunning fresh patchouli (Clearwood?) combined with orange citrus, cardamom and Nutmeg and something else that gives it a very fresh and clean feel. I get aldehydes in the opening as well or some other aromachem that creates a rush of good smells in the first minute.

Other honourable mentions:
Hacivat
Afrika Olifant

Avoid
Bosz Porusz (bitter white floral, thankfully discontinued, often available for sale in groups ;))
Sultan Vetiver (unless you want a vetiver with all the teeth and spikes and no finesse)

Caution
Musiqa Oud (starts nice with citrus and cardamom spice making the animalic oud and leather bearable, but when it settles on its dark oily leather note in the mid it can get very animalic, heavy and overbearing. This is very likely to make you unpopular out in public. But oud enthusiasts may enjoy it, or at least a small decant of it. I would say a bottle would be overkill)
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
To me it should definitely break ground and not be boring, superior to others in its bracket or have at least an X factor that blows me away

Totally agreed. That's what I felt with Unutamam after having smelt ~1000+ fragrances, so a -quite- trained nose. But indeed masterpiece is a word very subjective.

There are objectively fragrances that changes the history of fragrances (independently of anyone's tastes), because of totally new smells (Carven and Guerlain Vetiver, the first vetiver centric fragrances, Habit Rouge, Eau Sauvage, Fougere Royale, Fahrenheit and so), or new smells introduced to some people (Mugler and the ultra gourmands, the acquatics in the 90s thanks to new molecules, iris note for men in Dior Homme...). But masterpiece I think it's a word very personal.

I felt a similar way with Afrika Olifant, but I admit, a step lower. So in my book it's just great/stunning, but missed the grade masterpiece, just by an inch.


Let's talk more simply: so nothing that you really liked in Nishane's line up?
 

Andy the frenchy

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2018
It’s a great house for me because I love patchouli and Nishane have two amazing patch offerings: Kozha and Munegu. My exposure is limited but here are my thoughts:

Pachuli kozha
is a brilliant blend of leather, patchouli and honey, borrowing the classic accord from Givenchy Gentleman, but made much darker with an untamed patchouli, black pepper and incense. The honey plays a minor role, smoothing the edges ever so slightly. This is one of the greatest “black leather jacket” fragrances.

Munegu
is a stunning fresh patchouli (Clearwood?) combined with orange citrus, cardamom and Nutmeg and something else that gives it a very fresh and clean feel. I get aldehydes in the opening as well or some other aromachem that creates a rush of good smells in the first minute.

Other honourable mentions:
Hacivat
Afrika Olifant

Avoid
Bosz Porusz (bitter white floral, thankfully discontinued, often available for sale in groups ;))
Sultan Vetiver (unless you want a vetiver with all the teeth and spikes and no finesse)

Caution
Musiqa Oud (starts nice with citrus and cardamom spice making the animalic oud and leather bearable, but when it settles on its dark oily leather note in the mid it can get very animalic, heavy and overbearing. This is very likely to make you unpopular out in public. But oud enthusiasts may enjoy it, or at least a small decant of it. I would say a bottle would be overkill)

Thanks for sharing! I've heard about Patchuli Kohza, definitely on my test list!

Sultan Vetiver (unless you want a vetiver with all the teeth and spikes and no finesse): I'm a hardcore vetiver fan, and that looks appealing to me. Anyways my bottle of Sultan Vetiver shoud be here at the end of this week :)

Musiqa Oud (starts nice with citrus and cardamom spice making the animalic oud and leather bearable, but when it settles on its dark oily leather note in the mid it can get very animalic, heavy and overbearing.
You sold it to me!!!! I want it!! Animalic, more than Afrika Olifant? :cheesy:
 

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