How would you describe a fresh spicy-rooty accord? I'm looking for inspiration.

Claudio_Wu

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 14, 2019
Hello everyone.

I've been thinking about it for a while, but nothing comes to mind. I tried to make a mixture based on Linalyl Acetate, Linalool, anisic ACs, Ginger, Carrot Seed, Orivone, mentholic & camphor ACs, Corps Racine, a few spice EOs, but I don't get it. I imagine it as a bit earthy, spicy scent of Asian spices, a bit like ginger - earthy and fresh at the same time, but I wouldn't like it to be just ginger. I cannot choose the right materials in this case. Could I ask you for help?

EDIT: I forgot to add that I'm trying to create this accord so that it harmonizes with classic amber accord, vanilla and coffee.
 

apolo085

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2019
I am working on quite the same profile now, my base is a dark green Chypre.
Basil, coriander seeds in conjunction with the ginger for spice and freshness and maybe a touch of cinnamic aldehyde to merge the coffee to the spices.
A touch of anisaldehyde will combine well with the spices, cut some harsh edges and sweeten a little bite the top notes IMHO.
 
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parker25mv

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2016
"Rooty" can be a really difficult one (especially to get it to come out a high quality smell).

There is cypriol root oil, and if you're okay with some ginger-spice, galangal EO might work well for you here, it is slightly rooty.
 
Oct 11, 2021
Not a perfumer here-so no clue on ingredients. But geosmin (beetroot) can recall earthy and rooty. (Of course, this could be one of the ingredients you mention already)

Hello everyone.

I've been thinking about it for a while, but nothing comes to mind. I tried to make a mixture based on Linalyl Acetate, Linalool, anisic ACs, Ginger, Carrot Seed, Orivone, mentholic & camphor ACs, Corps Racine, a few spice EOs, but I don't get it. I imagine it as a bit earthy, spicy scent of Asian spices, a bit like ginger - earthy and fresh at the same time, but I wouldn't like it to be just ginger. I cannot choose the right materials in this case. Could I ask you for help?

EDIT: I forgot to add that I'm trying to create this accord so that it harmonizes with classic amber accord, vanilla and coffee.
Imao , Geosmin vetiver cyproil Chavicol.
 

AJ Dave

Active member
Aug 5, 2020
I would use Hedychium spicatum. It ticks all your boxes. The place I bought it from doesn't have it anymore, but the one I have is an old Indian CO2 made from dried roots. It still smells really wonderful. It doesn't smell at all like common ginger. It smells more like fresh turmeric and black cardamon, but much more "perfumey", sweet, smooth, and incense-like, but still mouth-watering. It's practically a perfume by itself.
 

Claudio_Wu

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 14, 2019
Thank you very much to all of you. I see it's not easy as Parker said. I would definitely not want to use Geosmin here because this is not the earthiness type I'm looking for, and besides, I don't have much experience with this material which is ultra strong and easy to overdose. Apolo, I'll try Cinnamic Aldehyde, I'll also use a little Eugenol. Anis Aldehyde will definitely emphasize freshness and all these spices will surely blend in nicely with the coffee. Paul, I'll try what you suggested, I just need to purchase some of them. Abby, I don't know Chavicol, is the smell of it similar to Methyl Salicylate? AJ Dave, thanks for that. I see it can be purchased on Etsy, I will give it a try.
 
Oct 11, 2021
Thank you very much to all of you. I see it's not easy as Parker said. I would definitely not want to use Geosmin here because this is not the earthiness type I'm looking for, and besides, I don't have much experience with this material which is ultra strong and easy to overdose. Apolo, I'll try Cinnamic Aldehyde, I'll also use a little Eugenol. Anis Aldehyde will definitely emphasize freshness and all these spices will surely blend in nicely with the coffee. Paul, I'll try what you suggested, I just need to purchase some of them. Abby, I don't know Chavicol, is the smell of it similar to Methyl Salicylate? AJ Dave, thanks for that. I see it can be purchased on Etsy, I will give it a try.
For me it's like sweet basil note and it's cheaper material too :)
 

German Pujol

Well-known member
Feb 10, 2017
Hi, Chavicol is not for sale in isolated form. It's found in higher dose at pimenta racemosa (bay rum oil). For rooty earthy undertone, the best i know is vetiverol, but, is high expensive ( 1500 dolar x kg, in argentina), piconia is cheap and tenacious, in patchouli direction.
 

Claudio_Wu

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 14, 2019
Abby, thank you for explanation, btw, nice avatar :)

German, I'm just a little bit confused about Vetiverol: at PSH I see they sell "Vetiverol ex Vetiver Haiti". My guess is they didn't mention Vetiver Haiti EO here, but could I use it instead?
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Abby, thank you for explanation, btw, nice avatar :)

German, I'm just a little bit confused about Vetiverol: at PSH I see they sell "Vetiverol ex Vetiver Haiti". My guess is they didn't mention Vetiver Haiti EO here, but could I use it instead?
Yes, you can use plain vetiver, but Haitian is brighter, and using only vetiverol, ex Haiti or not, is, I think, closer to what you may want. Have you ever heard of Guerlain Djedi? (1926) well, it is about 40% Vetiver from Bourbon / Reunion Island.
 

myhaiku

Well-known member
Aug 16, 2020
Just throwing out some rooty things: smilax officinalis extract (it may smell too much like rootbeer, but it's interesting), chicory root, lovage root Co2 extract, a touch galangal root.
 

Claudio_Wu

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 14, 2019
Thank you Paul, I'll try with Vetiver Haiti EO. I never heard about Guerlain Djedi, well, very impressive!
Myhaiku, thanks so much for your help!
 

German Pujol

Well-known member
Feb 10, 2017
vetiverol is not found in vetivers oil, its smell radiant, fresh, sweet, adictive. Like a citronellol without flower note. The drydown of encre noire, kenzo air, bleu chanel, zara 9.0, and many others, are vetiverol.
 

myhaiku

Well-known member
Aug 16, 2020
I did do a search, there's a thread from basenotes, and then there is an analysis of vetiver:
https://www.hilarispublisher.com/op...me-textile-applications-2165-8064-1000259.pdf --does contain vetiverol.
 

Jolieo

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2018
Vetiverol is not a specific chemical compound found in vetiver. Vetiverol is a complex material derived from vetiver essential oils by fractionation/enrichment.
Mike could you either explain or point to an explanation? I am wildly curious!

Also I am skimming so sorry if mentioned, but I would go Vetiver, with turmeric, and valerian ( which I adore), and spikenard- but really low doses and build from there-
Both valerian and spikenard are earthy/roots, but lean floral..
 

apolo085

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2019
Vetiverol is a mixture of sesquiterpenoid alcohols AKA isovalencenol and khusimol found in Vetiver oils.
Vetiverols with high Khusimol tend to be creamy and mild (eg: Vetiverol ex Brazilian Vetiver)
Vetiverols with high isovalencenol tend to be me aromatic (eg: Vetiverol ex Haiti Vetiver)
The production of vetiverol is more about eliminating undesired stuffs and leaving the existing alcohols rather than synthesising new molecules.
By corollary Vetiverol is in Vetiver oil, and Paul was right.
 
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