How to identify old Rochas Femme EDT/EDP

Apr 8, 2021
Hello, o knowledgeable ones!
I tried to find answers by searching, but only found a thread on the Parfum de Toilette, which I have and it's lovely. Now, I also have a miniature bottle of Femme EdT/EdP with a black cap. It says nothing on the bottle about concentration, and there's no box. I can smell a little cumin in it but not too much, so my guess would be that this is the 1989 reformulation when the PdT was no longer produced.
It is really gorgeous and I want to buy a full bottle. So, I was wondering how I can tell apart this earlier black-capped version from the later ones? At some point it was reformulated again and from what I've read I understood that the cumin was still increased. I don't want the later versions with more cumin.
I know how to avoid the new ones with gold cap, and the one with the slanted black cap - but not sure how I can best identify the OLD straight black-capped version. Also, from those who have it, any views regarding EDT vs EDP? I'd be grateful for any insights to help in my quest, thanks! ☺️


Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Feb 4, 2014

I think there has been radio silence to your question because most of us here on the Vintage Forum focus on finding the original Roudnitska Femme, launched post WWII and sold into the 80’s.

But the Cresp version, which appeared in 1989, has many fans, and it could be said that older Cresp bottles now also qualify as vintage. If I were looking for an older Cresp version of Femme, I would look for boxes with a short ingredient list, like this one (borrowed photo):

6E4A0EB2-72F9-4FC2-B65B-599C9BE0DF86.jpeg 49E93534-34C4-4C5B-8A14-5724DA26610E.jpeg

As you can see, the cap is gold, and my sense is that the older Cresp bottles have this kind of gold cap, not this gold cap as found on the much newer bottles (another borrowed photo).

Here’s a long ingredient list:

I do think they shifted from gold to black caps at some point—not sure that it matters much. Also the boxes with the line at the bottom are older than the ones without the line. It will be difficult to determine whether you have an older Cresp bottle without the box, and you will need actual, not stock photos.

And yes, you don’t want the slanted cap 2013 version.

Finally, I believe the EDP appeared later than the 1989 Cresp EDT and was on the market for a shorter period of time. The EDP commands higher prices, but most people seem to find the older EDT very strong. You could get a mini of the EDP and see what you think.

Good luck!

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