How to deal with undesirable aspects of otherwise desirable ingredients

[jkhuysmans]

I really like Aurantiol for its intense, fresh-plucked flower scent, but I find that in the composition I'm working on, the citrus drydown clashes with everything else and smells like PineSol; working with Jasmine Grandiflorum, I love its dark, narcotic aspect but not the distinct olive note it has.

My question is: is there a way to work around/cover up such aspects?

Or does a replacement ingredient that can impart the desirable elements without the undesirable need to be found?

Or, is this the wrong way to think about it: ie Aurantiol *is* fresh because of the citrus element, and Grandiflorum *is* dark and narcotic because of the olive note, and you should only work *with* ingredients like this, not against them?

 

[pkiler]

Everything, everybody, every material has strengths and weaknesses.
It is best to work WITH their strengths, instead of AGAINST their weaknesses.

 

[ZT31]

When it comes to EOs the trick is to use a rectified version, that's what big perfume houses do, and that's what natural isolates are for, so you can compose a scent that is a 100% what you like, and omit what you dislike, perfume houses can ask for a specific profile because they order hundreds of kilos if not tons.
But at our level we have not that prestige.
I wonder the same here, I would like for example to use Artemisia in a composition and make it dominent but covering it's woody dry down, that is unpleasant to me, my guess is that I should go with a strong musk, which is easy when you compose a heavy scent but for an aquatic, light, transparent scent, it will become an issue.
So waiting as well for an answer from the experienced perfumers.

 

[ourmess]

The only real "trick" there would be to work with single molecules instead of mixtures (while aurantiol is only a mix of 2 molecules, the jasmine is dozens to hundreds) and manually recreate the scent profile you're going for.