How to deal with undesirable aspects of otherwise desirable ingredients


Basenotes Member
Dec 24, 2022
I really like Aurantiol for its intense, fresh-plucked flower scent, but I find that in the composition I'm working on, the citrus drydown clashes with everything else and smells like PineSol; working with Jasmine Grandiflorum, I love its dark, narcotic aspect but not the distinct olive note it has.

My question is: is there a way to work around/cover up such aspects?

Or does a replacement ingredient that can impart the desirable elements without the undesirable need to be found?

Or, is this the wrong way to think about it: ie Aurantiol *is* fresh because of the citrus element, and Grandiflorum *is* dark and narcotic because of the olive note, and you should only work *with* ingredients like this, not against them?


Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Everything, everybody, every material has strengths and weaknesses.
It is best to work WITH their strengths, instead of AGAINST their weaknesses.


Basenotes Member
Aug 10, 2021
When it comes to EOs the trick is to use a rectified version, that's what big perfume houses do, and that's what natural isolates are for, so you can compose a scent that is a 100% what you like, and omit what you dislike, perfume houses can ask for a specific profile because they order hundreds of kilos if not tons.
But at our level we have not that prestige.
I wonder the same here, I would like for example to use Artemisia in a composition and make it dominent but covering it's woody dry down, that is unpleasant to me, my guess is that I should go with a strong musk, which is easy when you compose a heavy scent but for an aquatic, light, transparent scent, it will become an issue.
So waiting as well for an answer from the experienced perfumers.


Basenotes Junkie
Apr 25, 2018
The only real "trick" there would be to work with single molecules instead of mixtures (while aurantiol is only a mix of 2 molecules, the jasmine is dozens to hundreds) and manually recreate the scent profile you're going for.

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