Help- Vintage Perfume Suggestions

Tea_Lilly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 4, 2022
Hello! Hope today finds you well.

I would love some fragrance recommendations - especially for vintage (but doesn't have to be). I enjoy wearing fragrances marketed to either women or men. Thank you for your help.

Vintage Likes (just a few):
Nuit de Noel
Madame Rochas
Cabochard
Coriandre
Parfum Sacre
Habanita
Act IV
Dune
Dolce Vita
L'heure Bleue
Le Galion Jasmin
Joy

Does not suit me (not saying these are bad - just that they don't smell great on me):
Chanel no. 5
Chanel no. 19
Crepe De Chine
Bal a Versailles
Moment Supreme
 

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
What notes do you like and not like?

Suggestions to start:
Guerlain
Jicky
Shalimar
Vol de Nuit
Nahema
Chamade
Mitsouko
Eau de Cologne Imperiale
Eau de Coq
Eau de Guerlain
Heritage
Habit Rouge
Vetiver
Derby

DIor
Miss Dior
Dioramma
Diorella
Dioressence
Diorissimo
Dior Dior
Dior Homme (original 2005)
Eau Sauvage
Jules

Chanel
Chanel No 22
Sycomore
Coromandel
31 Rue Cambon
Bois de Iles
Cuir de Russie
Egoiste
Pour Monsieur
Gardenia

Hermes
Amazone
Eau d'Hermes
Hiris
24 Faubourg
Caleche
Bel Ami
Equipage
 

Tea_Lilly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 4, 2022
What notes do you like and not like?

Suggestions to start:
Guerlain
Jicky
Shalimar
Vol de Nuit
Nahema
Chamade
Mitsouko
Eau de Cologne Imperiale
Eau de Coq
Eau de Guerlain
Heritage
Habit Rouge
Vetiver
Derby
Wonderful suggestions - and a great question. I retried a few samples then took a look at the notes of some fragrances I liked and some that I had trouble with.

This is definitely a work in progress but I think I've determined:

Things I don't like:
1) Some neroli smells funky on me. Something for me to check for in the future.
2) I like a little civet - but a lot overwhelms me (it's all I can smell. After Bal a Versailles - I smelt as if I had wrestled with them). In Joy - the civet is perfectly balanced to the floral, imho.
3) Sometimes for me it is the balance rather than the individual notes. For Moment Supreme (at least the sample I have) it is something with how the amber and the middle notes smell - or my sample is bad.
4) Bitter without something to soften or sweeten. I think I'm extra sensitive to bitter. For example, I find most beer too bitter to drink.
5) Some gardenia.

Things I like:
1) Jasmine, hyacinth, carnation, peony, tomato, rhubarb, orris, grass, clover, green notes, some aquatic.
2) Most dry downs of vintage perfumes
3) Incense, smoke, spices, sandalwood, vanilla, oakmoss
4) Certain Leather-like scents
5) Balance. I don't mind sharp smells - I love green - I love floral but I like there to be something to balance that esp. in the basenotes.
 

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

Retired
Basenotes Plus
Jul 1, 2011
Wonderful suggestions - and a great question. I retried a few samples then took a look at the notes of some fragrances I liked and some that I had trouble with.

This is definitely a work in progress but I think I've determined:

Things I don't like:
1) Some neroli smells funky on me. Something for me to check for in the future.
2) I like a little civet - but a lot overwhelms me (it's all I can smell. After Bal a Versailles - I smelt as if I had wrestled with them). In Joy - the civet is perfectly balanced to the floral, imho.
3) Sometimes for me it is the balance rather than the individual notes. For Moment Supreme (at least the sample I have) it is something with how the amber and the middle notes smell - or my sample is bad.
4) Bitter without something to soften or sweeten. I think I'm extra sensitive to bitter. For example, I find most beer too bitter to drink.
5) Some gardenia.

Things I like:
1) Jasmine, hyacinth, carnation, peony, tomato, rhubarb, orris, grass, clover, green notes, some aquatic.
2) Most dry downs of vintage perfumes
3) Incense, smoke, spices, sandalwood, vanilla, oakmoss
4) Certain Leather-like scents
5) Balance. I don't mind sharp smells - I love green - I love floral but I like there to be something to balance that esp. in the basenotes.
A few things come to mind:

For Jasmine, Rouge Perfurmey Jasmin Antique is great.

Incense, I'd add Creed Angelique Encens

Woods and spice, SJP Stash is great
 

Tea_Lilly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 4, 2022
For a glorious hyancinth laden, leather chypre - Dior's Diorling - Paul Vacher - vintage if you can get it to appreciate the chypre structure properly. There is a modern version that is just about ok.

For green freshness/citrus on a classic oakmoss base the oft overlooked Chanel Cristalle EDT (not the EDP), and again, preferably a vintage bottle, although don't go too old, as it really suffers from losing its sparkle with age.

Chanel Bois des Iles should be a delight

For carnation - a lot of vintage Caron - it's almost a signature, Bellodgia and Poivre are fabulous, En Avion, Fleurs de Rocaille, Tabac Blond, all have significant carnation notes. Of these, only Tabac Blond remains in the much edited and reformulated new look Caron. Caron vintage scents seem to be more about sandalwood and musk in the base, and don't seem to have so much civet and the leathers aren't particularly animalic. A fascinating house to explore.

The eponymous Jean-Louis Scherrer is another which may be worth checking out.
Incredibly helpful, thank you.
Just put in a sample order from the great suggestions I've received (the ones I can get, anyway :D). I'm pretty excited about trying Diorling. I planted Hyacinths in my garden just to smell them (same with narcissus).
I've also really enjoyed most of the Caron I've tried and will definitely keep my eye out for the other suggestions as I can get my scent-greedy little hands on them :D
Thank you and best wishes for a lovely day.
 

Tea_Lilly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 4, 2022
A few things come to mind:

For Jasmine, Rouge Perfurmey Jasmin Antique is great.

Incense, I'd add Creed Angelique Encens

Woods and spice, SJP Stash is great
Sounds great. Thanks so much. I included the Angelique Encens in my sample order (I couldn't find the Stash). After I get through the just ordered samples (I think I picked about 22 things), I'm going to get the sample set from Rogue because I've heard great stuff about them in general :D And I can try the Jasmin Antique and the Chypre Siam amongst others.

Trying all these things will be fun and it will teach me more about what I like and don't like. I'm very much looking forward to it! Note: I got a couple with Neroli as notes to confirm that it is that note that I can sometimes struggle with.

Have a great night.
 

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