Guerlain temporarily suspending production of Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue!?

Jan 16, 2007
I know it seems that all I am doing is reposting information from Monsieur Guerlain's site!

I admit I'm sort of freaking out right now. In summary, an ingredient in the latest formulations of Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue for both EdP and parfum seems to...turn? "Change the olfactory imprint"? Anyway, they are going to stop production while they sort it out, but I'm extremely frustrated! I purchased a bottle of the affected extract, for a big chunk of cash (for me). I'm pleased that they are honest enough to admit it and address it, but it must be a major issue if they are going public like this. What does this mean for people who have purchased these latest batches?

Here's the link: http://www.monsieurguerlain.com/2016/01/lheure-bleue-and-mitsouko-suspended.html
 

BoyChanel

Basenotes Dependent
Jun 18, 2014
Goodness. My bottle of L'Heure Bleue EDP is from September 2014 and smells remarkable to me. I wonder which ingredient is the one in question.
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
Honest on their part to admit. Though without saying what is what, it's really hard to understand.

I hope it's not the new fractionated oakmoss - I don't think Heure bleue had any, but who knows.

cacio
 

chypre

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 10, 2006
I know it seems that all I am doing is reposting information from Monsieur Guerlain's site!

I admit I'm sort of freaking out right now. In summary, an ingredient in the latest formulations of Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue for both EdP and parfum seems to...turn? "Change the olfactory imprint"? Anyway, they are going to stop production while they sort it out, but I'm extremely frustrated! I purchased a bottle of the affected extract, for a big chunk of cash (for me). I'm pleased that they are honest enough to admit it and address it, but it must be a major issue if they are going public like this. What does this mean for people who have purchased these latest batches?

Here's the link: http://www.monsieurguerlain.com/2016/01/lheure-bleue-and-mitsouko-suspended.html

Which are the affected batches, sciencegirl? I'm sure they will allow you to return for a refund if you asked them, I recall reading some comments on Bois de Jasmin that they actually recalled some batches.
 
Jan 16, 2007
Which are the affected batches, sciencegirl? I'm sure they will allow you to return for a refund if you asked them, I recall reading some comments on Bois de Jasmin that they actually recalled some batches.

They haven't yet specified the batch numbers, so I am wondering if it is just impacting the batch that was in production at the time. This would be a relief. I did a quick sniff test of my own 2013 Mitsouko and it smelled fine, so either my nose isn't picking up the problem, or my bottle / batch year isn't affected, or it will become an issue with the aging of the fragrance. I wish I knew which...if it were an age issue I would just keep it in the fridge and use it up asap.
Again, much respect to Guerlain for taking steps to correct it. Hopefully we'll hear more details soon.
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
It's strange, because most Mitsouko lovers that I know think that the current EDP and extrait smell good again after years of disappointment. The article states that EDT is not affected - I guess we could compare labels to see what the EDP has that the EDT doesn't, but that still wouldn't necessarily mean anything (given the complexities of labeling, these days). Knowing the batch codes would really be helpful.
 

saminlondon

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 25, 2011
Don't panic! It sounds like they caught the affected batches before they were released. They must have been in production late 2015.
 
Jan 16, 2007
Don't panic! It sounds like they caught the affected batches before they were released. They must have been in production late 2015.
Awesome! That's what I am starting to think....fingers crossed. Very interesting, and in many ways it increases the esteem in which I hold the company.
 

mumsy

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jan 31, 2010
Most interesting that it is a raw material that seems to be being blamed... Perhaps it isn't so much 'off' than it has a higher level of one of the banned substances within it than normal and therefore takes the overall balance over the threshold to keep in line with all the regs.
 

Blackcat76

Super Member
Apr 29, 2012
Don't panic! It sounds like they caught the affected batches before they were released. They must have been in production late 2015.

Thanks, saminlondon! My bottles of L'Heure Bleue and Mitsouko date back about 10 years, but I still paniced when I read this thread. It's hopeful that Guerlain "seems" to be considering the best interests of their clients. :undecided:
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
I stopped at a Guerlain boutique in Paris. Still no Mitsouko parfum, because of "stabilization" issues. No idea of when a new, hopefully stable batch will come out.

cacio
 

Astrud

Super Member
Jul 29, 2011
I've spotted 2 EDP of l'HB in a store nearby. Batch code says May 2015.
Wondering if I should wait for the new release in September or buy now a bottle of a juice which may not be that great...
Any comments about the early 2015 batches of the edp ?
 
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Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
I've spotted 2 EDP of l'HB in a store nearby. Batch code says May 2015.
Wondering if I should wait for the new release in September or buy now a bottle of a juice which may not be that great...
Any comments about the early 2015 batches of the edp ?
I have a January 2015 Mitsouko EDP that smells okay, and another from March 2015 that I haven't opened yet - but according to Monsieur Guerlain (in a current thread about the reemergence of l'HB and Mitsouko called "Will the Real Mitsy Please Stand Up?"), the 2015 batches of EDP and extraits are all suspect because we don't know exactly when the mishap occured. If I were you, I think I'd wait for the 2016 batch codes.
 

Astrud

Super Member
Jul 29, 2011
I also think that I should play it safe, it's expensive and I'm not sure I'm willing to take the risk...
Mr Guerlain has just announced on his FB page that l'HB in parfum concentration is now available for purchase, the edp too apparently.
It means I won't have to wait until September to get it : ))
Thanks for your feedback !
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
I also think that I should play it safe, it's expensive and I'm not sure I'm willing to take the risk...
Mr Guerlain has just announced on his FB page that l'HB in parfum concentration is now available for purchase, the edp too apparently.
It means I won't have to wait until September to get it : ))
Thanks for your feedback !
I'm so glad that you won't have to wait! It would be a good idea to check the batch code before you buy, to be sure the store isn't offloading old stock. Hope you will absolutely love your bottle!
 

rum

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Mar 17, 2011
I've only ever tried Mitsouko once in Fortnum & Mason in London. I liked the scent but it didn't last. I have no idea which version I tried but it was some time last year. Should I wait before trying this one again or should I just pounce on the first thing I find?
 

Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
I've just checked the Guerlain website: the EDP of l'HB is indeed available for purchase.
Yes, I hope I'll love it ! I've been craving the edp...
Right, but stores are probably still selling the older bottles and will gradually replace them with the 2016 batch as existing supplies dwindle - so, if possible, check the batch code yourself before you buy, to ensure that you're indeed getting the 2016 version.

This won't be possible with online purchases. The Guerlain boutique and FragranceX BOTH sent me 2011 bottles of EDT in early 2016, so the purveyor is no guarantee that you'll be getting the batch you're looking for (see my posts in the Mitsouko thread referred to above: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/425990-Will-the-real-Mitsy-please-stand-up)
 

chypre

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 10, 2006
I've only ever tried Mitsouko once in Fortnum & Mason in London. I liked the scent but it didn't last. I have no idea which version I tried but it was some time last year. Should I wait before trying this one again or should I just pounce on the first thing I find?

If it didn't last, it sounds like it might have been the EDT, which is very good, but has poor longevity (a few hours at the most for me). The EDP and Parfum definitely last longer, but have minor variations in the way they smell. Now that the EDP and parfum are back, you could probably safely wait to try the other concentrations? (Though I hesitate to recommend that, since we all know that reformulations happen all the time).
 

Astrud

Super Member
Jul 29, 2011
If it didn't last, it sounds like it might have been the EDT, which is very good, but has poor longevity (a few hours at the most for me .

Same for me, I find the edt rather disappointing, that's why I want to go for the edp.
As Bonnette suggested, I'll check the batch code before buying.
But if the 2015 batch code is in question, why aren't people complaining about something wrong with their 2015 edp ?... Haven't read anything about it on BN or elsewhere. Is it so subtle that it's barely detectable ?...
 
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Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
But if the 2015 batch code is in question, why aren't people complaining about something wrong with their 2015 edp ?... Haven't read anything about it on BN or elsewhere. Is it so subtle that it's barely detectable ?...
I don't know, and that's part of my confusion, as well. I'm going by what Monsieur Guerlain said in the other thread. The timeline on all of this is murky as can be.
 

Astrud

Super Member
Jul 29, 2011
I've read the thread about Mitsy/Mitsouko you mentionned, Bonnette, and I think saminlondon may have a point :
"As far as the recent 'bad' batch is concerned, the risk of encountering these bottles is quite low, I'd have thought. They must have recalled anything that might have been affected, even assuming these batches were actually released into the wild."

That said, I'm still a bit reluctant to shell out some 100 euros for a May 2015 75ml edp !...
 
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Bonnette

Missing Oakmoss
Basenotes Plus
Jul 25, 2015
Yes, I hope Sam is right! I have a hard time imagining Guerlain investing in the cost of a recall, but I'd love to be wrong about that. Personally, when it comes to Guerlain I've adopted the motto: once burned, twice shy. I'll have to see the batch code with my own eyes before I'll buy my next bottle from them.
 

gandhajala

Basenotes Dependent
Sep 3, 2010
Welp, turns out it was a problem with one of the bases common to L'Heure Bleue and Mitsouko - Symrise's Iriséine.
Takasago, who produced the specific quality of methyl ionone that makes up some 60% of the base ceased production, and the substitute wasn't up to scratch.
 

Zycore

Super Member
Mar 18, 2014
Have anyone tried the new batches after this change, are there any differences from the 2014-2015 batches compared to 2016?
 

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