Guerlain releasing 3 new Oud fragrances

[RawM.I.A.]

Saw this new info on Instagram/Facebook & online & thought I'd share.

Cherry Oud
Oud Nude
Oud Khol

No release date yet, but will update when it becomes available.
So far only notes for Cherry Oud available.

Top
Cardomom & Cinnamon

Heart
Turkish Rose & Bulgarian Rose

Base
Oud Wood & Cherry Accord

Perfumer: Delphin Jelk

Cherry Oud is a new fragrance for women and men launched in 2022 under L’art et La Matière collection.

“Cherry oud between Red and Black, Oud wood is lacquered with cherry Revealing its most devastating carmine facets, the oud wood is lacquered with a cherry red note. Audaciously disturbed by the Perfumer Guerlain, it reveals itself in a woody fruity floral with mysterious accents.”
“In this creation between mischief and sacred, I wanted to play the contrast between the rarity, the mystery, the dark side of oud wood and the smile, the impertinence of the cherry. ” Delphin Jelk The Perfumer.
“As if plucked from Guerlain’s iconic palette, a lacquered red cherry accord shakes up the majesty of oud wood. A vibrant and daring chromatic clash, visual and tactile as well as olfactory, a true encounter between the mystery of black and the power of red. A clash of spices – burning cinnamon and stinging cardamom – enhances the fruity intensity of the cherry accord. A unique and powerful olfactory color enhanced by a duo of roses at the heart of the fragrance: an absolute of honeyed Turkish rose and an essence of fruity Bulgarian rose.”

 

[hednic]

Thank you so much for sharing! Looks like three more will become part of my collection!

 

[HouseOfPhlegethon]

They seem interesting.

 

[heavy black heart]

cherry + oud seems uuuh weird

 

[digitapntics]

cherry + oud seems uuuh weird

I thought the combo worked well in Sarah Baker’s Loudo.

 

[pfranka]

I saw the notes for the other two today here:

Guerlain Oud Nude -

ifragranceofficial.com

Guerlain Oud Khol - L’art et La Matière New Fragrance 2022

Guerlain Oud Khol is a new fragrance for women and men launched in 2022 under L’art et La Matière collection.

ifragranceofficial.com

Oud Kohl sounds a little like Habit Rouge Dress Code, maybe? I love that one, so hopefully this will be a nice twist. Raspberry is one of my favorite notes, so can't wait to try all of these.

Oud Kohl:

1. Top Notes
   • Aldehydes
2. Heart Notes
   • Leather, Praline
3. Base notes
   • Oud wood

Oud Nude:

1. Top Notes
   • Almond , Cumin
2. Heart Notes
   • Raspberry accord, Atlas Cedar
3. Base notes
   • Sandalwood, Oud, Vanilla

 

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Worth a sniff once they become available for testing.

 

[GoldWineMemories]

Interesting. The names make them sound very western-friendly. I have a hard time being hopeful they'll be exquisite.

 

[hednic]

I saw the notes for the other two today here:

Guerlain Oud Nude -

ifragranceofficial.com

Guerlain Oud Khol - L’art et La Matière New Fragrance 2022

Guerlain Oud Khol is a new fragrance for women and men launched in 2022 under L’art et La Matière collection.

ifragranceofficial.com

Oud Kohl sounds a little like Habit Rouge Dress Code, maybe? I love that one, so hopefully this will be a nice twist. Raspberry is one of my favorite notes, so can't wait to try all of these.

Oud Kohl:

1. Top Notes
   • Aldehydes
2. Heart Notes
   • Leather, Praline
3. Base notes
   • Oud wood

Oud Nude:

1. Top Notes
   • Almond , Cumin
2. Heart Notes
   • Raspberry accord, Atlas Cedar
3. Base notes
   • Sandalwood, Oud, Vanilla

The other two sound good also.

 

[LiveJazz]

The longer writeup on Oud Kohl is intriguing.

Melatic aldehydes against a toasted, smoky mineralic charcoal accord against praline and oud, with "absolute blackness" as a guiding principle. I mean, it could be a disaster, but I want to smell it anyway.

The other two sound kind of blah, but hopefully I'll be surprised.

 

[heavy black heart]

The longer writeup on Oud Kohl is intriguing.

Melatic aldehydes against a toasted, smoky mineralic charcoal accord against praline and oud, with "absolute blackness" as a guiding principle. I mean, it could be a disaster, but I want to smell it anyway.

The other two sound kind of blah, but hopefully I'll be surprised.

praline & absolute blackness seem at odds to me

 

[jkonick]

I've never been too impressed by any of Guerlain's Oriental outings, but if these lean more into a Guerlainade-meets-oud vibe, I could get into that (or at least be curious to sample it).

The oud/rose one probably does go that route, but Nude sounds interesting with its combination of cumin and almond - I love cumin but hate almond, and overall have no idea what they would smell like together - would it be a kind of marzipan almond note or something more roasted and woody? A kind of "dry roasted almond" could go really well with oud and cumin.

 

[LiveJazz]

praline & absolute blackness seem at odds to me

Me too. That's why I'm interested to smell how this was handled with skilled hands. For better or worse, this one in particular sounds like it was informed by a very specific and unique artistic goal. This setup usually results in something that's either very good or very bad.

I've never been too impressed by any of Guerlain's Oriental outings, but if these lean more into a Guerlainade-meets-oud vibe, I could get into that (or at least be curious to sample it).

The oud/rose one probably does go that route, but Nude sounds interesting with its combination of cumin and almond - I love cumin but hate almond, and overall have no idea what they would smell like together - would it be a kind of marzipan almond note or something more roasted and woody? A kind of "dry roasted almond" could go really well with oud and cumin.

You make good points. I feel the same way about almond and cumin in isolation, and the combo initially didn't sound very appealing...but you're right, if the cumin can modify the almond to make it feel toasty sweet instead of sticky high pitched sweet (which is how I normally perceive it), that could be, again, interesting if nothing else.

 

[imm0rtelle]

Which French brands have still held strong and avoided the oud bandwagon?

 

[heavy black heart]

Chanel, for one

 

[joov84]

oud khol sounds good

 

[joov84]

Guerlain Ouds First impressions

- Cherry oud : opens up with cherry and some nice cardamom . Rose soon appears and cherry remains in the background. A nice leather in the base with some cypriol/ oud. I like the drydown. It has a slightly lipsticky/make up leather feel. very good performance. I need more time with this. i'm not a big fan of the cherry/rose combination.

- Oud khol: Incensy leathery soap. opens with a burst of soap from the aldehydes. smoky almost charred form the incensy, sharp cypriol/ oud and leather. It remains soapy for long . I don't get the praline . very good performance. I'm not a fan of it.

- Oud Nude: it's from the 24 gold / kalemat/ Raghba family of fragrances but its smoother and with better quality. Really nice raspberry, almond, vanilla and wood . Gourmandish, Delicious sweet fragrance . A hint of smoke. It's my favourite out of the three . excellent performance.

 

[hednic]

Have had all three for a while now and Cherry Oud is my preferred of the three, but they're all very nice.

 

[mrcologneguy]

Thanks for the updates! Looking forward to giving these a sniff.

 

[cheapimitation]

Anyone else try these? I was pleasantly impressed with Oud Kohl and Oud Nude (didn't try Cherry Oud). I've avoided most oud themed releases, so maybe I'm just not as burned out on this genre as others, but I found these refreshingly unique.

Oud Kohl is a soapy aldehyde incense bomb, very striking and bold. Maybe a little hard to wear because it feels so bone dry and sharp but I appreciate its straightforward vision.

Oud Nude is much cozier, it feels like it has a lot of contrast between warm/vanilla, smokey/woody, and fresh/fruity elements while balancing them all well and never going too heavy or sweet.

Neither seem to have much to do with an "oud" smell or the accord of aromachemicals we've come to associate with Western oud, which is likely a blessing. I also appreciate that they smell much smoother and more restrained than Les Absolus d'Orients range.

I've got samples of both and can't wait to give them some more wear. Has anyone else been taken with these?

Edit: I've been wearing Oud Nude all evening and I'm feeling less thrilled about it. It has gone very sweet, almost a vanilla custard smell on me and I swear I get cherry too.. but this isn't Cherry Oud. I'm longing for something woody or smokey to come in and balance the goopy sweetness. It does have a very cozy texture, reminds me of an off white cashmere blanket. I have a low tolerance for sweetness so I'm sure this will have its fans, but for me this is way too sweet/gourmand.

 

[saminlondon]

Anyone else try these? I was pleasantly impressed with Oud Kohl and Oud Nude (didn't try Cherry Oud). I've avoided most oud themed releases, so maybe I'm just not as burned out on this genre as others, but I found these refreshingly unique.

Oud Kohl is a soapy aldehyde incense bomb, very striking and bold. Maybe a little hard to wear because it feels so bone dry and sharp but I appreciate its straightforward vision.

Oud Nude is much cozier, it feels like it has a lot of contrast between warm/vanilla, smokey/woody, and fresh/fruity elements while balancing them all well and never going too heavy or sweet.

Neither seem to have much to do with an "oud" smell or the accord of aromachemicals we've come to associate with Western oud, which is likely a blessing. I also appreciate that they smell much smoother and more restrained than Les Absolus d'Orients range.

I've got samples of both and can't wait to give them some more wear. Has anyone else been taken with these?

Edit: I've been wearing Oud Nude all evening and I'm feeling less thrilled about it. It has gone very sweet, almost a vanilla custard smell on me and I swear I get cherry too.. but this isn't Cherry Oud. I'm longing for something woody or smokey to come in and balance the goopy sweetness. It does have a very cozy texture, reminds me of an off white cashmere blanket. I have a low tolerance for sweetness so I'm sure this will have its fans, but for me this is way too sweet/gourmand.

I tried these two out (on cards) a couple of days ago.

Oud Kohl started out as a fairly classic dry oud to my nose, but then didn't really go anywhere. It's nowhere near as black as the marketing bumf would have you believe, especially with the praline note. (I wish someone would wean Guerlain off their tedious praline and cherry habit.) I found it not very Guerlain, and ultimately not very interesting, smelling like any number of other scents out there.

Oud Nude IS very Guerlain, as you hinted, with all the fluffy patisserie notes we're familiar with. It is indeed quite sweet, and by the time it dried down I was struggling to find the oud. The raspberry/gourmand notes dominate completely by this point.

Caveat: I would encourage people to test these releases themselves - especially since these days my default mode for assessing new Guerlain releases is 'bitter old curmudgeon'

 

[cheapimitation]

Oud Nude IS very Guerlain, as you hinted, with all the fluffy patisserie notes we're familiar with. It is indeed quite sweet, and by the time it dried down I was struggling to find the oud. The raspberry/gourmand notes dominate completely by this point.

Caveat: I would encourage people to test these releases themselves - especially since these days my default mode for assessing new Guerlain releases is 'bitter old curmudgeon'

Yea, a good lesson in try before you buy. When I first smelled Oud Nude at the store I was already doing calculations for how many months I should save before I can justify purchasing this. After one full wearing at home though, I was nearly ready to scrub it off. I still think it is a lovey perfume, but does that sweet "flufffy patisserie" thing way too much for me.

Oh well, money saved for me! I'm starting to think Diptyque's Oud Palao is what I'm looking for in a Western oud and it is considerably cheaper. I don't own any ouds now (oops except Cartier Oud and Oud) but I'm getting the itch to have just one for this winter.

Will give Oud Kohl a wearing tonight.

 

[Schubertian]

I wasn't too tempted by these in the first place, but really appreciate reading your impressions. Thank you!
Even less tempted now.

 

[Brooks Otterlake]

I'm starting to think Diptyque's Oud Palao is what I'm looking for in a Western oud and it is considerably cheaper.

That's a good 'un.

Guerlain's prior excursions into "oud" left me mostly cold, despite Wasser's ability to conure up a better-than-typical oud accord. The Les Absolus d'Orient collection in general was a bit of an odd experiment, feeling very disconnected from other Guerlain releases in aesthetic (a number of them are downright gruff).

It sounds like these new releases are "luxe" in the typical style of these high-end Guerlain releases, but they also don't excite me at all. I don't do well with cherry notes or aldehydes, and have more or less had my fill of LVMH-era Guerlain gourmands.

 

[Paddington]

Tried all 3 only one that’s some what intresting is khol the others are nothing new

 

[Brooks Otterlake]

I sampled Oud Khol yesterday. It's pretty good! Similar to the Absolus collection, but nicer, IMO, than Bois Mysterieux (which it reminds me of).

It ain't worth retail, but arguably nothing in the entire line is worth the current asking price. That said, if somebody gave me a bottle, I'd give it some proper wearings.

 

[Ken_Russell]

A belated thanks for such wonderfully great news!

(Mainly, mostly) thanks to the greatness, creativity and beauty found in all Guerlain fragrances using the oud note-irrespective of any vintage/current, gender, regular/exclusive line divide- knowing just precisely how to dose, use and ultimately value their oud in such wonderful scent creations typical for this wonderfully iconic house of landmark fragrance creation (s).

 

[Schubertian]

I wasn't too tempted by these in the first place, but really appreciate reading your impressions. Thank you!
Even less tempted now.

I was able to smell these in a store on my last trip. Unfortunately I had to spray them on cards, as I'd already filled both my arms with other perfumes before spotting the Guerlain counter... but the Guerlain cards are very high quality, super absorbent. I found both Cherry Oud and Oud Nude were "very nice". I did not immediately swoon and get out my credit card. "Khol" I found off-putting, at least on paper - but then again it might behave differently on skin. Not for me, though.
As someone else said above, I agree they are well done, smell quite elegant and pleasant - but am I in love? No. Worth the €300 asking price? No. None of the L'Art et la matière line are imo. But that's just me.
(I also tried Oud Palao - on skin - and my, it was really good! But I'm not sure I'd dare to put it on in public... Still mulling it over. At least it provoked more emotion from me.)