Green, clean(ish), sort-of-mean, dry and not overly sweet, work-appropriate masculine fragrance suggestions.

slpfrsly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2019
To cut a long story short, I thought Beau de Jour was basically an ideal 'green' fragrance that I could use as a daily and work scent, however - whether it be due to post-covid nose changes, or simply a greater appreciation of a fragrance that develops through regular wearing - I find that I'm tired of the sweetness that crops up in the base. Particularly as it correlates with the midday and afternoon, when I find I want something less...gloopy. As such, I'm reluctantly seeking the possibility of replacing it with something else. In that vein, I'd very much appreciate if you could provide me with some suggestions.

I'm an open book in terms of suggestions but, frustratingly, I am quite picky about what I deem acceptable, let alone good. The general parameters would be something green, as I have other 'colours' covered in my wardrobe (citruses are yellow and white, for example; an 'aquatic' like Oud Minerale is simply shades of grey/black/silver). Quite how that greenery smells, I'm open-minded. If it is green+ something else, this would be fine, however I would quite like to start by investigating fougeres before I go straying too far from BdJ. Herbs are good - I am also very open to a lovely crisp, dry lavender scent - but so would be something mildly oakmossy (no dank old man smells though, please, nor anything too pungent).

I am currently looking and/or have samples on the way of the following:

Villoresi Wild Lavender
Diptyque Eau de Minthe
Chanel Egoiste Platinum
Heeley Athenean

As I say, I'm open to ideas, anything from Green Irish Tweed type aroma (which, to me, is like clean shower gel musks, iris, and then some green notes), to something that is more classical, perhaps retro, with a solid, masculine, deep-yet-clean oakmoss base. I've tried a few modern oakmosses, in the likes of Atelier's Bergamot scent, yet I haven't found a happy medium between that sort of light/crisp/dry and almost feminine airiness, and then the rugged, dank, leathery oakmoss of Gucci Nobile and other vintage fragrances. I had Dior's Eau for Men pencilled in as a potential replacement for BdJ if I ever tired of it, eventhough it's not really to my taste as it's more of a 'purple floral' scent, which tend to be overtly feminine in my opinion. It also dries down to a woody amber base, so would require an extensive re-sampling period, which I will probably try to do if I can find a bottle for a reasonable price (its discontinuation is another factor that means I'm not going straight for it).

The only other request would be to avoid sweet notes, as this is the main issue with Beau de Jour. As another example, I've also gone off Aventus since having covid as well, as the sweetness of that really dominates and makes me feel slightly nauseous at certain times. So, something a little drier, and not sweet, would be good - but I know people will interpret that in different ways, so don't try to avoid sweetness in its entirety. It's not like I'm looking for a stone-cold fragrance, just one that ideally doesn't dry down in to vanillic-amber.

The meanness is sort of tongue-in-cheek and mainly for rhetorical reasons. However, I do quite like the idea of something that evokes timeless masculinity - rather than meanness.

I've tried a shed load of scents, from Rive Gauche to Rogue Perfumery's retro fragrances. I'm open-minded about niche/designer but tend to find more satisfaction in the slightly less-than-mainstream designer market, or the established and not-extortionate niche. My most recent 'trials' were with Bois du Portgual and Viking, neither of which quite cut it.
 
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pouring

Well-known member
May 22, 2013
Wow. Hard to know where to start.

I would have suggested Fougere Royale but that is sweet also.

I like Nasamatto Nudiflorum as as “green” (to my kind leather) but I am a lone voice in likening this one.

Vetiver Extrordinare is green and dry but perhaps too pungent as the day drags on.

If you like BdJ so much - I think you need to try Antica Caruso by Profumum Roma. A European style barbershop Fougere. A smashing scent
 

OldSchoolScents

Well-known member
Jun 7, 2019
I might recommend looking at Enrico Coveri pour homme. It's green, herbal (but not overly so) and while its drier and less sweet than things like Tsar or Fougere Royale, it isn't too dry. It's from the 80s but I wouldn't call it an old man smell at all, pretty classic and timeless, somewhat conservative masculine.
 

cacio

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 5, 2010
Eloge du traitre is a very good green fougere. No sweetness, niche, but not extortionary prices.

I am currently loving Synthetic jungle, as green as it gets, with a very nice light, but long lasting, dry mossy leathery drydown. But I wonder if that might indeed be too pungent for what you are thinking about.

cacio
 

TRBeck

Well-known member
May 27, 2008
You may have tried many or all of these, but a few that come to mind:

Geo F Trumper Wild Fern - so old it doesn't feel dated, or at least it might not, and a prototypical green fougere with a big lavender note and no 80s power accords
Lorenzo Villoresi Uomo - everyone is different as far as longevity with this one, but it's got herbs aplenty and a delightful drydown that for me makes it through a work day; stunning natural feel
L'Homme Rochas - the tonka might be too sweet for you, but I don't find it overbearing, and I usually do when it comes to sweet bases; no lavender but herbs and a sort of barbershop feel atop ambroxan and tonka and a bit of patch isolate
Diptyque Eau de Menthe - barbershop without being staid or stuffy at all, and really a uniquely green fragrance
Guerlain Vetiver Extreme - take the original, strip out the tobacco, and lay in some green and herbal notes (chiefly tarragon); not so much "Extreme" as "Vetiver Vert"
Pascal Morabito Or Black - utterly distinctive; lavender shaving foam laid over leather and a bit of amber; ; it goes on green and a bit wild and dries down to something like a barber's hands after a day spent with lather and strops
 

tspencer

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jul 12, 2016
What about French Lover?
I wouldn't describe French Lover as 'green' so much as "quasi-medicinal herbal". And French Lover (previously known as Bois d'Orage), is a very nose-addicting niche fragrance. At first you might think, hmm, a bit medicinal, but then after several more smells it's really, really GOOD. Makes me think of what the air in Iceland must smell like when you're around those herbaceous plants that grow there.

French Lover is one of two fragrances (Creed Vetiver Geranium is the other), that I could imagine Superman wearing while living at home in his crystal-ice Fortress of Solitude.
 
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Cook.bot

Common Lackey
Basenotes Plus
Jan 6, 2012
Have you tried anything from Parfum d'Empire? Marc-Antoine Corticchiato is an absolute genius with green scents. For your purposes I'd especially call out his Corsica Furiosa and Iskander -- the former being drier and the latter slightly sweeter and more citrusy.

Pascal Morabito Or Black - utterly distinctive; lavender shaving foam laid over leather and a bit of amber; ; it goes on green and a bit wild and dries down to something like a barber's hands after a day spent with lather and strops
I was going to suggest Or Black too, but wondered if it was green enough to qualify. I suppose it is, but it's stupendous at any level.
 

Hazzle77

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2021
Some great suggestions already and I'll also throw Floris Elite into the mix - think it definitely classes as 'green' and always gives an air of confidence in the workplace!
 

TRBeck

Well-known member
May 27, 2008
I was going to suggest Or Black too, but wondered if it was green enough to qualify. I suppose it is, but it's stupendous at any level.
Yeah, it might not be green enough. But I can't say there's another color that comes to mind more when I wear it. The mid is the greenest portion, but there's enough herb and moss presence in the opening and base to suit this old-school fougere fan, even though there's little of the requisite "dapper-gent" vibe.
 

MisterK

Well-known member
Dec 22, 2003
Caswell Massey Greenbriar (Gold cap version), this version is pretty green and herbal, with a light amber in the dry down. If you like Gucci Nobile you may like this.

You could possibly go with the newer (confusingly named "Heritage" despite being newer) version of Greenbriar but I think that is along the lines of Green Irish Tweed/Cool Water. Odd that its more expensive than the gold cap version.

They sell both versions on their website at least right now.
 

fjord

Well-known member
Dec 16, 2007
How about green-aromatic ones, something like Whip (Le Galion) - Cravache (Piguet) - Fiero (Xerjoff)? Out of the three, Fiero is more opulent, though also rumored to have been reformulated recently... None of these are sweet though, in the sense that there is no modern amber-sweetness in the base if that's what's getting on your nerves.
 

RCavs

Well-known member
Sep 13, 2004
I second Bogart Signature, Tsar and Vetiver extreme recommendations and add:
- GB Bowling Green (the most recent formulation - crystal clear juice): They transformed it in an almost aquatic lime/green fragrance, if It makes sense...
- Jacques Bogart Eau Fresh
- Acqua di parma Colonia Club
 

basicDave

Well-known member
Feb 7, 2014
I would recommend Fahrenheit Cologne. If you get a sample, try to judge it as much as possible as its own scent. Try as hard as you can to forget that it's related to Fahrenheit.

It's not green, but it's masculine and work appropriate (and maybe you already tried it)... but Dior Homme 2020? I'm a big fan, so I figured I would throw that out there.
 

IsoESuperman

People of Zee Wurl, Relax
Basenotes Plus
Dec 30, 2015
Etro Palais Jamais was the first thing that came to mind with the thread title.

Reading your post, it is very much not a barbershop Fougere but more a green, mildly smoky/leathery (mean), semi-tea like, vetiver and moss scent.

I wear it to work often, which doesn’t exactly mean that makes it office appropriate, but I’d be shocked if anyone considered it sweet.
 

slpfrsly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2019
Thanks for the replies and suggestions so far. Lots of interesting possibilities

It's quite possible I'll love something already suggested, however, to expand on what I'm looking for: as I'm wearing Beau de Jour today, I'm probably looking for something that dries down in to something akin to the way BdJ opens. Or, perhaps BdJ's mids, but without the ambery sweetness in the base. Possibly with the addition of a true mossy/green base note, to add to the herbal mids of BdJ. I find BdJ to be primarily a rosemary and herbal scent - I hardly smell lavender, in all honesty. Basically, I want something that smells nice in the afternoon, 6-8 hours after application, that produces a lovely blend with skin that isn't going to grow tiring, sickly, yet at the same time isn't overly fresh and juvenile; ideally with something akin to an oakmoss or green base. Although I used Gucci Nobile as an example of what I don't want, it's perhaps not a bad incarnation of what I'm after, as it seems to fit the name and aim for a slightly regal-smelling green aroma that isn't too pungent nor too aggressively louche. It also does dry down in to that lovely sort of skin scent. It's just that Nobile is perhaps a tad too dated, not to mention ridiculously priced. Gucci Envy does something similar as well in that green vein, but feels altogether more fresh, vibrant - I'm not sure it's really worksafe (EDIT: If I were reading this, I would recommend Tom Ford for Men, as it's so similar to Envy but with a different 'tone'. I wore this for a while but there's something about it that makes me feel ill as well, possibly vetiver and amber combined in the base).

With all that said, I'm by no means averse to old (and even very old, like Trumper) fragrances. I'm rambled without really expressing what I wanted to, but it's really about that sort of late afternoon feeling on skin - as I'm writing it, I realise I'm basically asking for something that is far less common in the modern day, right? What with fragrances having sacrificed base notes for top notes in the search for quick dept store sales. Anyway, hopefully someone deciphers what I'm trying to say from this. It's like the antithesis to what BdJ is giving me on my skin atm: I want something drier, not necessarily 'colder', but not sweet, not sickly, when it gets down in to the base. I'm probably going to be looking at something vintage now that I think about it. Floris Elite is a good suggestion, I think I still have a sample somewhere. And there's loads to try, so thanks everyone.
 
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slpfrsly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2019
Etro Palais Jamais was the first thing that came to mind with the thread title.

Reading your post, it is very much not a barbershop Fougere but more a green, mildly smoky/leathery (mean), semi-tea like, vetiver and moss scent.

I wear it to work often, which doesn’t exactly mean that makes it office appropriate, but I’d be shocked if anyone considered it sweet.
Oh, and just to follow up on this, because a few of the scents I've checked out seem to be vetiver-centric: I struggle with vetiver quite considerably, it unfortunately makes me feel nauseous as well, so anything with vetiver prominent is probably going to do the exact same thing as sweet notes! This has been a major bane as many fragrances I like, from Bergamotto by Acqua di Parma to St. Clement's by Heeley, use a prominent vetiver. Also, the modern male work fragrance that replaced mossy greens, until the fougere revival, seem to be vetiver-centric, like Tom Ford's etc. This is probably why I've struggled for so long to find what I'm looking for, but worth mentioning. Some vetiver is fine, but if it's to the fore, and lasts in to the base, I'll probably struggle with it. Cheers!
 

IsoESuperman

People of Zee Wurl, Relax
Basenotes Plus
Dec 30, 2015
This has been a major bane as many fragrances I like, from Bergamotto by Acqua di Parma to St. Clement's by Heeley, use a prominent vetiver.
Wow. I love St. Clement’s (and vetiver) but find it more or less devoid of vetiver. More of an updated clean musky Eau de Cologne.

If you find it vetiver-centric, stay far, far away from Palais Jamais.
 

PrinceRF

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 3, 2020
Thanks for the replies and suggestions so far. Lots of interesting possibilities

It's quite possible I'll love something already suggested, however, to expand on what I'm looking for: as I'm wearing Beau de Jour today, I'm probably looking for something that dries down in to something akin to the way BdJ opens. Or, perhaps BdJ's mids, but without the ambery sweetness in the base.
You know, you could always just re-apply Bea de Jour once you get into the dry down.

Do let us know what you end up sampling regardless.
 

slpfrsly

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2019
I dug out my sample of Floris Elite last night. Not how I remembered it, in part because I think I just dismissed it after trying on paper. Interesting scent. Not quite what I was expecting. It sems to take the galbanum-leather route that I first encountered from Jovoy - although Jovoy is no doubt approaching it from a retro angle, that was my first encounter really smelling this type of aroma, so that's the connection I make. I think it was L'Art de la Guerre that it is similar to: there's a slightly candy-sweet aroma which I always thought was rhubarb according to note lists. There's also something of other leather scents in here, like Mona di Orio's Cuir. Interesting. Less green than I was expecting but in the right sort of vein: though I'd probably hope for something a tad lighter, truth be told. That said, on the right track. Not a bad suggestion at all.
 

Marty McFly

Well-known member
Jan 18, 2020
Though I think you can never go wrong with GIT, I would also suggest Creed Himalaya. It carries some of the clean, fresh notes from GIT but with more crisp woods.

Another I think is worth checking out is Moschino Forever. Don't let the fact that Moschino is a designer stand in the way of something surprisingly good; It's very fresh and clean, light green to my nose, quite masculine, and perfect for the office.
 
Jun 10, 2012
A few suggestions -

R de Cappucci
Lubin Itasca
Paco Rabanne pour Homme vtg (the dry-down might be a bit sweet for you, but it's not a synthetic sweetness like BdJ which the Signature version I find lacking on so many levels, it's got a wonderful note of honey, and is more warm than sweet)
Tom Ford Vert des Bois
Dior Granville
Dunhill "classic" (1984)
Dunhill Blend 30 (if you can find it)
Gucci Nobile (if you can find it)

Agree with some of the other suggestions.
 

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