GCMS analysis and Cruz Del Sur II

[amateurperfumer]

After having a career change I've unfortunately been away from this forum, but I've been busy experimenting with perfumes and getting countless perfumes analysed by GCMS to further understand how a perfume is built.

I realised very quickly that although a GCMS is helpful, it certainly will not give the results many expect. Especially when it's only accurate to 0.01% and when it can be very challenging to establish exactly what naturals have been utilised.

As a gift to the community which I very much love being a part of, I am including a formula for a perfume I really love. This is by no means an identical copy, but it is a formula I reached after over 100 versions of this perfume. The most difficult aspect of this perfume, was how to get the perfect ripeness and the mango aroma. I tried to use various thiazoles, but perhaps my inventory was not big enough to get the exact effect.

This performs extremely well in longevity and projects very nicely. Enjoy!

Iso E Super 24.85
Hedione HC 22.71
Vanillin 7.90
Florol 5.14
Galaxolide 5.03
Ethylvanillin 4.07
2-Phenoxyethyl isobutyrate 2.37
Virginian cedarwood 2.26
Lilial 2.05
Vertofix 1.90
Limonene 1.86
Glycolierral 1.80
Verdox 1.12
Coumarin 1.06
Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinyl Butyrate 0.88
DMBC acetate 0.8
Benzoic acid 0.72
Nectaryl 0.72
γ-Decalactone 0.71
Allyl heptanoate 0.24
Cinnamic acid 0.19
Triplal 0.11
Ethyl decanoate 0.11
Jasmonate 0.10
γ-Nonalactone 0.09
Benzyl benzoate 0.08
Benzaldehyde 0.06
Cyclabute 0.05
Linalool 0.05
α-Damascone 0.05
Estragole 0.05
Vanitrope 0.04
Ethylene brassylate 0.04
β-Damascenone 0.03
β-Pinene 0.03
Myrcene 0.03
(E)-Cinnamyl (E)-cinnamate 0.03
Ethyl maltol 0.02
Allyl hexanoate 0.02
β-Caryophyllene 0.02
Linalyl acetate 0.02
Sulfurol 0.02
α-Pinene 0.01
Manzanate 0.01
γ-Terpinene 0.01
Dihydromyrcenol 0.01
Allyl amyl glycolate 0.01
Citronellol 0.01
α-Terpineol 0.01
Neofolione 0.01
Benzyl (E)-cinnamate 0.01
Veloutone 0.01
Octanal 0.005
Δ3-Carene 0.005
para-Cymene 0.005
Ethyl heptanoate 0.005
Camphor 0.005
Ethyl benzoate 0.005
Citral 0.005
Piconia 0.005
Buccu Mercaptan 0.00018
DPG 10.41



Total 100

 

[pkiler]

With Great Thanks, But honestly, I would take it down soon, as this forum is publicly readable without signing in, and there are people who are stealing these formulas, and publishing them under their own name.

Such as this:

Perfume Accords - (The Beginner's Perfumery Manuals) by Francis Dominic Dimaano Presto (Paperback)

Read reviews and buy Perfume Accords - (The Beginner's Perfumery Manuals) by Francis Dominic Dimaano Presto (Paperback) at Target. Choose from contactless Same Day Delivery, Drive Up and more.

www.target.com

Which consists often of harvested formulas from here on BN.

 

[pkiler]

Also, That's a huge pile of Vanillin...

 

[deroudist]

Also, That's a huge pile of Vanillin...

Its a really sweet fragrance. Out Satin Mood from MFK for example has almost 10% of vanillin.

 

[Deleted member 26348570]

Very interesting selection of percentages (I.e. ethylene brassylate - .04%) but I’m sure it’s important nonetheless.

Might I ask, does more constituents play a role in longevity? I’m entering the learning phase of modulating aroma chemicals can have profound effect on the evaporation rate. It’s difficult to achieve a specific scent character while as balancing the right evaporation rate.

 

[amateurperfumer]

Nice to see you again PK! Ahh...to be honest I'll let this one slide this time, I guess I won't be sharing anything else haha! Yes it's a load of Vanillin, the dry down is pretty much vanilla with a touch of an almost caramelised fruity ripeness.

In terms of the Ethylene brassylate at 0.04% I'm sure if you didn't add this it wouldn't be noticeable at all. Other ingredients such as the sulfurol and the buccu mercaptan are absolutely essential, and although they are used in lower amounts, the fragrance would be very one dimensional without them - the fruits would be very candy like and smell more like haribos than actual fruits.

I don't think that more constituents has anything to do with longevity per say. It really depends on the constituents.

Benzyl benzoate is a general fixative that's found in 99% of perfumes, and is very useful since its almost odourless so won't affect the odour of your fragrance. In terms of long lasting materials, vanillin and galaxolide probably outlast all the other materials, but the lactones, the cyclabute, beta damescone and ethyl maltol do last a long time.

 

[Deleted member 26348570]

Maybe it’s just my skin and it’s fragrance eating properties.

 

[mnitabach]

Nice to see you again PK! Ahh...to be honest I'll let this one slide this time, I guess I won't be sharing anything else haha! Yes it's a load of Vanillin, the dry down is pretty much vanilla with a touch of an almost caramelised fruity ripeness.

In terms of the Ethylene brassylate at 0.04% I'm sure if you didn't add this it wouldn't be noticeable at all. Other ingredients such as the sulfurol and the buccu mercaptan are absolutely essential, and although they are used in lower amounts, the fragrance would be very one dimensional without them - the fruits would be very candy like and smell more like haribos than actual fruits.

I don't think that more constituents has anything to do with longevity per say. It really depends on the constituents.

Benzyl benzoate is a general fixative that's found in 99% of perfumes, and is very useful since its almost odourless so won't affect the odour of your fragrance. In terms of long lasting materials, vanillin and galaxolide probably outlast all the other materials, but the lactones, the cyclabute, beta damescone and ethyl maltol do last a long time.

Presumably the low & moderate impact materials that appear in seemingly de minimus amounts that wouldn't be expected to affect the composition at all were constituents of pre-made bases/accords or natural materials that themselves were included in relatively small amounts.

 

[Lucofborg]

Amateur, I'm curious where do you get your analysis done?

If you don't want to share here because it's a public forum, you might want to consider two groups on facebook (both groups are Paul Killer's groups):
-Perfumemaking
-Perfume GC split club
The last one is for people that would like to share GCMS or contribute.

 

[Enigma Molecules]

Thank you very much, high quality formula indeed.
They don't want to share their own knowledge and they don't want people to share their knowledge. Strange!

 

[minorstep]

Amateur, I'm curious where do you get your analysis done?

If you don't want to share here because it's a public forum, you might want to consider two groups on facebook (both groups are Paul Killer's groups):
-Perfumemaking
-Perfume GC split club
The last one is for people that would like to share GCMS or contribute.

Is the GC club still on? Would love to join. 👀

 

[Lucofborg]

Is the GC club still on? Would love to join. 👀

Yeah, you'll need to message Paul Kiler though. Directly on facebook or here.

 

[jsweet]

So I decided to put this together today with the materials I had on hand. Veloutone, Vanitrope, and Cinnamic Acid are probably the most important components missing but if anyone sees a glaring omission I am open to suggestions.

Just after blending, I can tell that this is very spot on. I only know of Cruz del Sur II from a 2ml sample, but left me with a pretty memorable impression. This seems to nail the lactonic tropical fruits of CdSII already, with no maceration time.

I want to thank OP for generously sharing something they spent money on, and I will try to report back after maceration and dilution.

250​	timbersilk	25.00%​
227​	hedione hc (bedoukian)	22.70%​
100​	galaxolide 50% IPM	10.00%​
79​	vanillin	7.90%​
52​	florol	5.20%​
41​	ethyl vanillin	4.10%​
24​	phenoxyethyl isobutyrate	2.40%​
23​	cedarwood virginia	2.30%​
20​	lilial	2.00%​
22​	benzoin oliffac	2.20%​
19​	vertofix	1.90%​
19​	limonene d	1.90%​
18​	glycollerral	1.80%​
18​	allyl heptanoate 10%	1.80%​
11​	verdox	1.10%​
10​	coumarin	1.00%​
10​	triplal 10%	1.00%​
9​	dimethyl benzyl carbinyl butyrate	0.90%​
8​	dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate	0.80%​
7​	nectaryl	0.70%​
7​	gamma decalactone	0.70%​
5​	a-damascone 10%	0.50%​
3​	damascenone 10%	0.30%​
3​	delta nonalactone	0.30%​
2​	allyl hexanoate 10%	0.20%​
2​	ribes mercaptan 1%	0.20%​
2​	piconia 10%	0.20%​
2​	ethyl maltol 10%	0.20%​
2​	citral 10%	0.20%​
2​	manzanate 10%	0.20%​
2​	sulfurol 10%	0.20%​
1​	benzaldehyde 50%	0.10%​
1000​	Total