Fresh accord or synthetic that lasts into the late heart or base note

[mrfragrance]

Hey guys,

I am currently still working on my first perfume. However, there is still so much to be done. I have gained new knowledge in the last few weeks thanks to this forum and the great people here. I'm looking for a fresh accord/note. It could be fruity like lychees, apples pears it could also be some other fresh fruit or something floral that doesn't smell feminine. The main goal is to make the perfume fresher. The note should be perceptible into the late heart or base note. So on the skin over 7 hours.

Do you guys have any ideas or recommendations?

Thanks 🙃

 

[RomanB]

Try Muguet aldehyde + methyl anthranilate Schiff's base. The aldehyde is quite tenacious itself, but not 7 hours on skin.

 

[mrfragrance]

Try Muguet aldehyde + methyl anthranilate Schiff's base. The aldehyde is quite tenacious itself, but not 7 hours on skin.

Thanks sounds good I will give it a try. What mixing ratio would you recommend?

 

[mnitabach]

Nine-Line 1990s Freshie

Just spontaneously reeled off this nine-line freshie & it's performing really well. It's not subtle & it's not clever, but it is powerful diffusive & appealing, and has a certain cartoonish elegance thru the progression. It's very 1990s! DHM 100 coranol 200 amber core 415 ethylene brassylate...

basenotes.com

The DHM + coranol + florol accord in the above-linked formula is canonical masculine citrus-herbal-floral "fresh". It can be elegantly fruitified with AAG and/or fructalate.

ETA: And it's tenacious on skin.

 

[Casper_grassy]

You can try Andrane, Piconia, Koavone, Cashmeran, Cedramber(these aren’t super long lasting, but can confer fresh nuances into the earlier stages of the drydown) and some longer lasting ones like Calone and Ambroxan.

Small doses of Raspberry Ketone, Oranger Crystals and Rose Ketones can put a fruity nuance into the late heart and drydown.
Helvetolide can work too, it has great volume and is forgiving.

There’s many ideas of what “fresh” is, mostly shared, but IDK exactly what you’re going for, I can think of a 100 things for this.

 

[mrfragrance]

There’s many ideas of what “fresh” is, mostly shared, but IDK exactly what you’re going for, I can think of a 100 things for this.

Thanks for your answer. I don't know exactly what kind of freshness I want. I think I'll experiment with the components mentioned until I've found the right one.

I'm currently trying to create a fragrance that contains musky, amber, slighly woody and a slight vanilla sweetness in the base and then the mentioned freshness that I'm looking for with some jasmine, geranium, lavender, cardamom and a powdery floral iris. I don't have any ideas for the top notes yet but I think it should go in the direction of pineapple, apple, pear, bergamot or mandarin. Right now I'm focusing on the base and heartnotes and try to make a good powdery floral iris and the mentioned freshness.For the iris I have already found good suggestions here. Only with the freshness I struggled a bit because most of the ingredients are top notes that last less than 2 hours. With the suggestions mentioned here, I think I'll get the freshness that I want. Now I just have to try everything and see what goes well with the other ingredients.

 

[RomanB]

Thanks for your answer. I don't know exactly what kind of freshness I want. I think I'll experiment with the components mentioned until I've found the right one.

I'm currently trying to create a fragrance that contains musky, amber, slighly woody and a slight vanilla sweetness in the base and then the mentioned freshness that I'm looking for with some jasmine, geranium, lavender, cardamom and a powdery floral iris. I don't have any ideas for the top notes yet but I think it should go in the direction of pineapple, apple, pear, bergamot or mandarin. Right now I'm focusing on the base and heartnotes and try to make a good powdery floral iris and the mentioned freshness.For the iris I have already found good suggestions here. Only with the freshness I struggled a bit because most of the ingredients are top notes that last less than 2 hours. With the suggestions mentioned here, I think I'll get the freshness that I want. Now I just have to try everything and see what goes well with the other ingredients.

None of the “top” notes last for 2 hours, 2 hours is the range for middle notes. You can force some top notes las longer with a fixative like Glucam P-20 or Cetyl alcohol, but at such doses they will flattern the overall fragrance.

 

[ScentAle]

Depend and depend from precisely what you want to achieve.
Totally random you can big bergamot, hedione hc, coranol, some apritone, a bit of acetophenone, fructalate, patchouli and tonalide. Fresh and happy smell.

 

[Tharrys78]

Nine-Line 1990s Freshie

Just spontaneously reeled off this nine-line freshie & it's performing really well. It's not subtle & it's not clever, but it is powerful diffusive & appealing, and has a certain cartoonish elegance thru the progression. It's very 1990s! DHM 100 coranol 200 amber core 415 ethylene brassylate...

basenotes.com

The DHM + coranol + florol accord in the above-linked formula is canonical masculine citrus-herbal-floral "fresh". It can be elegantly fruitified with AAG and/or fructalate.

ETA: And it's tenacious on skin.

I am in exacxtly the same position of OP... Trying to put together a summer fresh scent and being more or less disappointed (especially by projection and duration os skin).
I am eager to try the lined 9-liner (replacing lyral with...I don't know!) . Especially curious to see how all that coranol works out, because my current formula already has 1% coranol and it stands out in a "clean-linen" annoying way. But, let's see

 

[mnitabach]

I am in exacxtly the same position of OP... Trying to put together a summer fresh scent and being more or less disappointed (especially by projection and duration os skin).
I am eager to try the lined 9-liner (replacing lyral with...I don't know!) . Especially curious to see how all that coranol works out, because my current formula already has 1% coranol and it stands out in a "clean-linen" annoying way. But, let's see

Try this formula at 10% in EtOH.

 

[mrfragrance]

Try Muguet aldehyde + methyl anthranilate Schiff's base. The aldehyde is quite tenacious itself, but not 7 hours on skin.

Hey Roman,
What mixing ratio would you recommend?

 

[RomanB]

Hey Roman,
What mixing ratio would you recommend?

Methyl anthranilate’s molecular weight is 151.17, muguet aldehyde’s molecular weight is 198,31. You need one molecule if both to make a base. So, the ratio is 1:1.31. Take one in slight excess, depending on the desired effect, in your case the aldehyde should be taken in excess.

You know how to make Schiff bases, right?

 

[mrfragrance]

You know how to make Schiff bases, right?

I guess. Please correct me if I am wrong:

1. Mixing Methyl anthranilate + muguet aldehyd
2. Adding a bit Ethanol
3. Carefully heating
4. Leaving in the sun a few days

 

[mnitabach]

I guess. Please correct me if I am wrong:

1. Mixing Methyl anthranilate + muguet aldehyd
2. Adding a bit Ethanol
3. Carefully heating
4. Leaving in the sun a few days

Based on where you appear to be at in your perfumery journey, making your own schiff bases should IMO & IME be extremely low on your priority list for expending your limited time, effort, resources. Buy some aurantiol & spend your time, effort, resources on learning to work effectively with a limited universe of commonly used, easily obtained materials.

 

[Tharrys78]

Based on where you appear to be at in your perfumery journey, making your own schiff bases should IMO & IME be extremely low on your priority list for expending your limited time, effort, resources. Buy some aurantiol & spend your time, effort, resources on learning to work effectively with a limited universe of commonly used, easily obtained materials.

I agree, but if one can't find aurantiol it is very easy to make it. One of my suppliers actually answered me "make your own" when I asked for it :/

 

[pkiler]

I guess. Please correct me if I am wrong:

1. Mixing Methyl anthranilate + muguet aldehyd
2. Adding a bit Ethanol
3. Carefully heating
4. Leaving in the sun a few days

Your knowledge and practice are far from complete to successfully make a schiff base. Do more reading and research, look for my posts and Other's.

Aurantiol can be bought here: https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-6005-auralva-iff.aspx

 

[Jamesmiju]

Traces of c12 mna giveaway lift and brightness the whole composition.
Also PK's long lasting lemon base also helps a lot. Or possibly z11 with a long lasting solid basenote like ambroxan/raspberry ketone/ethyl maltol etc

 

[mrfragrance]

Traces of c12 mna giveaway lift and brightness the whole composition.
Also PK's long lasting lemon base also helps a lot. Or possibly z11 with a long lasting solid basenote like ambroxan/raspberry ketone/ethyl maltol etc

Very useful information thanks!
I've read that the long lasting lemon is a very good lemon and a mix of different Schiffs Bases. I think thats what i am looking for. Thanks!

 

[rococo]

Not sure if it is in line with the direction you are going, but undecavertol can a be very nice and lasting component of a fresh heart (in trace amounts unless you want to feature it as a violet or fig note)