Fragrance Oil critics - thoughts on reformulation?

[beachvibes]

I have my own line of perfume oils that I made after looking for fragrances/fragrance oils for my body butter. Since then, one of my fragrance oils was discontinued by the supplier and I was able to find another company to recreate the fragrance. I love it, but it only can be used at 5.5% in perfumes so I can never make a true "perfume" at a 25% concentrate.

Now after reading the forums here I realized that fragrance oils are a no no and frowned upon in perfumery. Therefore I had a GC/MS analysis done on my fragrance oil to really find out exactly what was in there and see if I could re-formulate it to enable it to be allowed at a higher concentration for perfumes and to tweak it a bit to make it last longer as well.

My questions are the following:

What makes this fragrance oil so "cheap" and to be frowned upon for perfumery - is it the high % DPG or the somewhat minimum number of aroma chemicals used? I would think it would need at least 10% DPG to dissolve the crystal chemical so I kept the initial reformulation % estimate just at that.

Thoughts on my re-formulation initial estimates as I try and recreate this (pic below)? I tried to keep the ratios in some sort of proportion to how they originally were, just increasing the % from the decrease that I put towards the DPG. I know this is something I'm going to just have to experiment with when getting to know my materials, but was wondering if this would be a good place to start.

This formula doesn't seem to have any top notes, which I've read here aren't absolutely necessary but was just curious if that flowery note considered middle could be considered the top note.

Anyways, it's pretty funny as the marketing of the top/middle/bottom notes of this fragrance oil was true for some of the notes but another specific fruity note couldn't be found anywhere and the floral middle note was something I did not pick up on/was mentioned-described at all - although it could have given the fragrance oil it's bit of spiciness per say.. I guess the way perfume/fragrance oil companies describe the way their products smell, is truly marketing, and not reflective of the actual scents of the products/chemicals they are describing!!

Anyway, I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts if you have a moment after reading this lengthy post, ha!

Thanks.

 

[pkiler]

You have only seven materials giving you scent.

There are no naturals. This is cheap because the raw materials are cheap.

It isn't a perfume, but a sketch waiting to be filled out.

 

[jsweet]

To your questions about fragrance oils being frowned upon for use in perfumery, this article on perfume bases might be helpful: https://parfumplusmag.com/article/perfumery-bases-part-1-the-indispensable-perfumery-raw-material/

Bases are useful when, for example, they contain captive materials or materials that are too specialized to purchase on their own. It's fair to assume that products labeled "fragrance oil" do not have such materials included. All of the materials in that GCMS are very common (I keep all of those around). So I'll leave my bases to the chemists at reputable perfume material manufacturers, rather than purchasing fragrance oils from an Etsy store. I'd recommend the same for others.

 

[pkiler]

this article on perfume bases might be helpful: https://parfumplusmag.com/article/perfumery-bases-part-1-the-indispensable-perfumery-raw-material/

too bad, page would not load for me...

 

[jsweet]

too bad, page would not load for me...

Apologies, this link should get you to the article I had in mind: https://parfumplusmag.com/article/perfumery-bases-the-indispensable-perfumery-raw-material/ The author does a good job of breaking down some very specific ways that bases are useful to commercial perfumery.

 

[jsweet]

Reading OP again I now understand what they mean by "reformulation." So yes, that accord seems easy to put together on your own. The anisaldehyde needs to drop down to 2% for 10% EDT or 1% for 20% EDP. None of the other materials that are restricted pose an issue in that formula because they are low enough concentrations.

 

[beachvibes]

Apologies, this link should get you to the article I had in mind: https://parfumplusmag.com/article/perfumery-bases-the-indispensable-perfumery-raw-material/ The author does a good job of breaking down some very specific ways that bases are useful to commercial perfumery.

Reading OP again I now understand what they mean by "reformulation." So yes, that accord seems easy to put together on your own. The anisaldehyde needs to drop down to 2% for 10% EDT or 1% for 20% EDP. None of the other materials that are restricted pose an issue in that formula because they are low enough concentrations.

Thanks for your thoughts. I thought it shouldn't be too hard to play around with, since there aren't that many ingredients and it's just an accord as you say. Just ordered my materials and can't wait to experiment!

 

[ourmess]

Some fragrance critics may have negative opinions on reformulations, as they can alter the scent of a perfume and potentially diminish its quality or character. Others may be more accepting of reformulations, recognizing that they are sometimes necessary due to changing regulations, ingredient availability, or other factors. Ultimately, the impact of reformulations on fragrance oils can be a topic of much debate and discussion within the fragrance industry, with varying perspectives and opinions.

This looks like a copy/paste from ChatGPT that still doesn't actually answer the original question.