Fort and Manlé

[911LambMelb]

https://fortandmanle.com/products/last-of-d-agar-limited-edition-1-tola-12ml

:grin::grin:

 

[911LambMelb]

But it has like 20 oils from Dear Leader Ensar (and others). You obviously don’t know the value of that and how much of a collectible it will be. I’m sure someone will tell you the value is there shortly.

You can't really fault F and M when it comes to pricing.
Yes this is their most expensive perfume to date, but it is an exception due to the ingredients used, and not the norm.
Costly for 12ml, but it will prove to be well worth it IMO.

 

[qja]

I got one, and I'm excited about it. I really love Rasei's blending and style, so I trust this will be exceptional.

 

[bl00drunzcold]

You can't really fault F and M when it comes to pricing.
Yes this is their most expensive perfume to date, but it is an exception due to the ingredients used, and not the norm.
Costly for 12ml, but it will prove to be well worth it IMO.

I get that and I had one in my cart but decided against it because how can you really smell more than one or two of the prominent ouds out of the 85 in there? I was thinking it would sell out fairly quickly but it's still available.

 

[Brooks Otterlake]

How do folks feel about Maduro?

 

[naylor]

I get that and I had one in my cart but decided against it because how can you really smell more than one or two of the prominent ouds out of the 85 in there? I was thinking it would sell out fairly quickly but it's still available.

I was on the fence and had one in my cart also ... almost pulled the trigger until they dropped another $50 on top for shipping. That made it an easy decision to walk away, especially when this house has fallen pretty flat for me in the past.

 

[bl00drunzcold]

I was on the fence and had one in my cart also ... almost pulled the trigger until they dropped another $50 on top for shipping. That made it an easy decision to walk away, especially when this house has fallen pretty flat for me in the past.

Yeah the $50 shipping is a bit much, that was one of my reasons as well.

 

[911LambMelb]

Well, I received the fragrance today (I am based in Melbourne also, so yes that was quick).

In my humble opinion this is the prettiest oud perfume in existence.

There is no barn, no funk, no medicinal notes, no rubber, no petrol, no rot. Instead, the sweeter elements have been beautifully highlighted.
Fruit, flowers, sweet wood, vanilla etc.

Soft projection and sillage, with great longevity. As expected, wonderfully blended.

Those in want of an animalic Hindi type perfume will be disappointed. This is all about the beautiful aspects of oud. So if that's your thing, you'll love this one.

Admittedly I am a fan of this house, so let's wait for others. But I feel this will be the general consensus. This perfume is an amalgamation of all the 'nice' aspects of oud.

 

[qja]

I got my Last D'Agar yesterday, and I agree that it is exceptional. The multi faceted, ever changing nuances are all lovely from start to finish. The skill in blending this is truly remarkable. Really, really beautiful.

 

[avrora]

Well, I received the fragrance today (I am based in Melbourne also, so yes that was quick).

In my humble opinion this is the prettiest oud perfume in existence.

There is no barn, no funk, no medicinal notes, no rubber, no petrol, no rot. Instead, the sweeter elements have been beautifully highlighted.
Fruit, flowers, sweet wood, vanilla etc.

Soft projection and sillage, with great longevity. As expected, wonderfully blended.

Those in want of an animalic Hindi type perfume will be disappointed. This is all about the beautiful aspects of oud. So if that's your thing, you'll love this one.

Admittedly I am a fan of this house, so let's wait for others. But I feel this will be the general consensus. This perfume is an amalgamation of all the 'nice' aspects of oud.

I got my Last D'Agar yesterday, and I agree that it is exceptional. The multi faceted, ever changing nuances are all lovely from start to finish. The skill in blending this is truly remarkable. Really, really beautiful.

Thanks for your thoughts! Like many others I'm curious about this. I trust Rasei's blending skills (Kolonya is a masterclass), but feel that the 85 oud oils are gimmicky and together with the over-the-top presentation raises questions about what you're paying for, and if the actual smell reflects the price. It's nice to read about a soft, sweet, fruity, floral fragrance, is there something you'd be able to compare it to? The only other oud heavy fragrance I've tried that I would describe in similar terms would be Rasa from Pomare's Stolen Perfume, have either of you tried it and is Last of d'Agar in any way similar to it?

 

[litworth]

Is Last D’Agar an attar (oil) or is this a perfume spray?

 

[strifeknot]

It comes with a slash cap if you prefer to dab it, and with an optional bulb sprayer for spritzing.

 

[litworth]

Ok - thanks.

 

[qja]

Thanks for your thoughts! Like many others I'm curious about this. I trust Rasei's blending skills (Kolonya is a masterclass), but feel that the 85 oud oils are gimmicky and together with the over-the-top presentation raises questions about what you're paying for, and if the actual smell reflects the price. It's nice to read about a soft, sweet, fruity, floral fragrance, is there something you'd be able to compare it to? The only other oud heavy fragrance I've tried that I would describe in similar terms would be Rasa from Pomare's Stolen Perfume, have either of you tried it and is Last of d'Agar in any way similar to it?

I can't really think of anything at all to compare it to. Rasa is very fruity, this is more about pure oud. To me, it's like a dream oud - a pure oud that has the best of all facets and none of the challenging ones. It is definitely soft on projection, I could be wrong but I don't think there is anything synthetic in here to act as a fixative. I'm not the best at describing perfumes, so I won't even try with this. I will say though, I cannot stop sniffing it. All day, constantly. There is just something about it. I think that people who really love pure oud oils and really well done, real oud fragrances will enjoy this. I won't be using the sprayer it came with though, too much evaporation with those types of sprayers and this stuff is too pricey to waste. It is crazy expensive for 12ml, so I wouldn't suggest to anybody to run out and buy it unless you feel really pulled to it. It's not more expensive per ml than some EO's though, and it is more masterfully blended far beyond anything I have from there. It's just different, it's not clouded by any supporting notes or fillers, it's all about highlighting the beautiful nuances of pure oud.

 

[avrora]

I can't really think of anything at all to compare it to. Rasa is very fruity, this is more about pure oud. To me, it's like a dream oud - a pure oud that has the best of all facets and none of the challenging ones. It is definitely soft on projection, I could be wrong but I don't think there is anything synthetic in here to act as a fixative. I'm not the best at describing perfumes, so I won't even try with this. I will say though, I cannot stop sniffing it. All day, constantly. There is just something about it. I think that people who really love pure oud oils and really well done, real oud fragrances will enjoy this. I won't be using the sprayer it came with, too much evaporation with those types of sprayers and this stuff is too pricey to waste. It is crazy expensive for 12ml, so I wouldn't suggest to anybody to run out and buy it unless you feel really pulled to it. Not more expensive per ml than some EO's though, and more masterfully blended far beyond anything I have from there. It's just different, it's not clouded by any supporting notes, it's all about highlighting the best facets of pure oud.

Thank you! That's helpful. I love many fragrances with lots of real oud in them, but I didn't particularily care for the Agar Aura ones I tried that were supposed to be approximations of "real" oud smells. Didn't try Kinam Attar but neither Agar Attar or Khmer Kinam were hits for me, and it seems that TLDA has a similar objective. Did you try any of the AA ones, and are they in any way similar? Sorry for the interrogation

I also gasped at the puffer spray, I hope no one has it permanently attached and sees it all evaporate within a year... Or maybe there are secure ones? I just recall seeing that happen with the Guerlain L'Art & La Matière puffers.

 

[qja]

Thank you! That's helpful. I love many fragrances with lots of real oud in them, but I didn't particularily care for the Agar Aura ones I tried that were supposed to be approximations of "real" oud smells. Didn't try Kinam Attar but neither Agar Attar or Khmer Kinam were hits for me, and it seems that TLDA has a similar objective. Did you try any of the AA ones, and are they in any way similar? Sorry for the interrogation

I also gasped at the puffer spray, I hope no one has it permanently attached and sees it all evaporate within a year... Or maybe there are secure ones? I just recall seeing that happen with the Guerlain L'Art & La Matière puffers.

I have the first release Kinam Attar from AA, and a decant of Al Jazzab - I love both, but I find Kinam Attar to be amazing. I didn't like Agar Attar, or anything else I tried after that, as much as those first two. Last of D'Agar is not like any of the extraits I've smelled from AA. The objective might be in the same ballpark though, as far as a really great oud profile in spray format. I would say if you have tried some pure oud oils that you really liked, but wanted a more complexity and range, and less funk (I realize this is a broad statement because of the vast range in oud profiles, but still), then see if anybody is doing a split on this and give it a try. I wouldn't blind buy it if that's not something you enjoy. Ironically, I think it's the oud purists who might enjoy this the most, but they're also the ones passing on it because they don't like the concept of blending that many ouds.

 

[litworth]

Sorry to continue to harp on the same point, but I am trying to get a sense for the concentration in order to get an idea for how long this will last. Is it more like concentration in Henry Jacques Perfume Oils, Or is more like Roja’s Extraits, or is it more like something even more watered down?

 

[qja]

Sorry to continue to harp on the same point, but I am trying to get a sense for the concentration in order to get an idea for how long this will last. Is it more like concentration in Henry Jacques Perfume Oils, Or is more like Roja’s Extraits, or is it more like something even more watered down?

To me this wears more like a swipe of oud. Not great projection, it sits closer to the skin, but lasted most of the day. But I also dabbed a small amount on my wrist, I did not spray it as most would so I'm sure that makes a difference. Definitely not like Roja's, they're pretty strong on me. I don't have any experience with HJ, so I can't compare. These are closer to Di Ser for me, or some other naturals, for longevity. I think Rasei said the concentration is 25%.

 

[RawM.I.A.]

I don’t understand why he chose a bulb spray over a normal atomizer when bulb sprays are known to have several issues.

 

[911LambMelb]

Thanks for your thoughts! Like many others I'm curious about this. I trust Rasei's blending skills (Kolonya is a masterclass), but feel that the 85 oud oils are gimmicky and together with the over-the-top presentation raises questions about what you're paying for, and if the actual smell reflects the price. It's nice to read about a soft, sweet, fruity, floral fragrance, is there something you'd be able to compare it to? The only other oud heavy fragrance I've tried that I would describe in similar terms would be Rasa from Pomare's Stolen Perfume, have either of you tried it and is Last of d'Agar in any way similar to it?

Well, Russian Adam mentioned that the 85 ouds work together in harmony. Some armchair experts have said that only a few ouds will shine through, completely false. It's not a gimmick at all and you'll detect the nuances of various ouds from various regions.

I can't really compare it. It is absolutely unique and well blended.

Someone mentioned Agar Aura, I have them all. They showcase oud in a different way. There you detect a single profile oud, some supporting elements. Much more raw.

Conversely Last D Agar is a masterclass in blending and truly cherry picks the more beautiful elements of various ouds.

 

[litworth]

Screw it. I just ordered a bottle. Can’t wait to smell it.

 

[SOB111]

I ordered it on Friday night. Cant wait for it to arrive.

 

[SOB111]

Well, Russian Adam mentioned that the 85 ouds work together in harmony. Some armchair experts have said that only a few ouds will shine through, completely false. It's not a gimmick at all and you'll detect the nuances of various ouds from various regions.

I can't really compare it. It is absolutely unique and well blended.

Someone mentioned Agar Aura, I have them all. They showcase oud in a different way. There you detect a single profile oud, some supporting elements. Much more raw.

Conversely Last D Agar is a masterclass in blending and truly cherry picks the more beautiful elements of various ouds.

do you use the bulb spray or dab?

 

[911LambMelb]

do you use the bulb spray or dab?

Both. The sprayer for the novelty lol.
You can empty it once done then screw the cap back on.

 

[litworth]

Anyone have any additional observations about this scent at this point? I’m still waiting for bottle to arrive to me.

 

[911LambMelb]

I'm also looking forward to the reviews of others.

 

[SOB111]

Its absolutely stunning. Its actually the oud perfume Ive been waiting for. A classically trained perfumer who takes the finest of ingredients from the best distillers (such as EO, Russian Adam, AA etc) and blends it to perfection.

It has all the facets i love about oud minus any rough edges.

I agree with 911Lamb - this very different from Agar A's oud based perfumes.

Besides the juice, the box and packaging is first class.

 

[qja]

Its absolutely stunning. Its actually the oud perfume Ive been waiting for. A classically trained perfumer who takes the finest of ingredients from the best distillers (such as EO, Russian Adam, AA etc) and blends it to perfection.

It has all the facets i love about oud minus any rough edges.

I agree with 911Lamb - this very different from Agar A's oud based perfumes.

Besides the juice, the box and packaging is first class.

Agree 100%

 

[litworth]

My bottle just arrived in the mail. I have to agree it’s fantastic. It’s hard to describe but if I had to describe it I guess I would agree with what everyone is saying - it takes the best features of various oud profiles, and blends it into one whole, uniform compilation with none of the negative aspects of oud. It smells precious and like real top quality oil. Not like a fragrance that’s trying to mimic oud using synthetics or cheap oud oils. From first sniff you KNOW this is authentic top shelf stuff, I’m happy with my purchase. Now I have to convince myself not to buy another bottle. Sigh. The struggle is real. This is not an inexpensive hobby/addiction.

 

[litworth]

What’s weird is that the card that came with my bottle says it’s #16 of 173, but I purchased it after someone who posted a picture of their bottle and card which said it was number 50 something. Maybe they are pulling the bottles randomly or starting from back to front

 

[cpatrick44]

Its absolutely stunning. Its actually the oud perfume Ive been waiting for. A classically trained perfumer who takes the finest of ingredients from the best distillers (such as EO, Russian Adam, AA etc) and blends it to perfection.

It has all the facets i love about oud minus any rough edges.

I agree with 911Lamb - this very different from Agar A's oud based perfumes.

Besides the juice, the box and packaging is first class.

View attachment 153632

Thank you for this stunning picture and review. I believe Rasei is actually self taught, but you're certainly excused for the mistake: his blending is so refined, and his style so specific, that he comes off as classically trained.

I love hearing these positive reviews and that he has taken 85 oils and made something new. Sure, you lose specific notes, but you gain something in the blending that isn't there with single origin ouds. After all, isn't that what perfumery is? Taking ingredients and putting them together so that old facets are lost but something new is gained by the combination? It's like 1+1=3. If I recall correctly, Kolonya had some absurd number of materials that went into it too, but what comes out on the other side is different, and greater, than the sum of the parts.

 

[litworth]

I’m also detecting what I now think of as a Fort and Manle House note in this as well. Just a hint of it. It’s the spicy, almost but not quite metallic note that makes me think of gold or shiny things - it’s in the Forty Thieves fragrance from this same house and I think I also detect a hint of it in Kolonya. With that being said, it’s fabulous when paired with whatever ouds are in this composition.


Edit : Longevity on me is low (2 hours or less) and as stated above, it projects softly, but someone within a foot of you probably would be able to detect it on you during those 2 hours. If performance were better I would be buying another bottle but at the moment I think I need to chill on that and just get to know the scent a little better with more wears before thinking about another purchase.

 

[SOB111]

I’m also detecting what I now think of as a Fort and Manle House note in this as well. Just a hint of it. It’s the spicy, almost but not quite metallic note that makes me think of gold or shiny things - it’s in the Forty Thieves fragrance from this same house and I think I also detect a hint of it in Kolonya. With that being said, it’s fabulous when paired with whatever ouds are in this composition.


Edit : Longevity on me is low (2 hours or less) and as stated above, it projects softly, but someone within a foot of you probably would be able to detect it on you during those 2 hours. If performance were better I would be buying another bottle but at the moment I think I need to chill on that and just get to know the scent a little better with more wears before thinking about another purchase.

Interesting. Longevity on me is pretty good - i am going 10 hours and can still smell it as a skin scent (nice hay note at this point). Projection is relatively low though - i get about 2-3 hrs of solid projection, and then its predominately skin scent

 

[litworth]

Interesting. Longevity on me is pretty good - i am going 10 hours and can still smell it as a skin scent (nice hay note at this point). Projection is relatively low though - i get about 2-3 hrs of solid projection, and then its predominately skin scent

I applied using the atomizer bulb. How did you apply it?

 

[911LambMelb]

Glad to see so far so good for this fragrance.
I get around 2 hours of projection and 9 hours longevity, projection dies off quickly, which is fairly standard for oud.

 

[SOB111]

I applied using the atomizer bulb. How did you apply it?

Bulb - about 4 sprays. Projection was low though.

 

[oudaddict]

Russian Adam has praised Last of d'Agar and was surprised that all the ouds work perfectly together. A lot of people enjoying this one but still out of my budget.

 

[qja]

I put on LDA yesterday evening at about 5ish and I could still smell it on my wrist this morning. Projection is the same as mentioned by others, 2-3 hours, but it continues to shift and change for many hours. The far drydown is stunning.

 

[litworth]

The whole thing is stunning. I see it currently has a 4.0 rating on Fragrantica with 2 reviews. I understand that there are different strokes for different folks but how anyone can call this an average fragrance is truly beyond me. I just purchased another bottle. I think it will be highly valued when sold out. I did not buy the second bottle to sell. I purchased it to use personally, as I know I will want more of it when the first bottle runs out

 

[qja]

The whole thing is stunning. I see it currently has a 4.0 rating on Fragrantica with 2 reviews. I understand that there are different strokes for different folks but how anyone can call this an average fragrance is truly beyond me. I just purchased another bottle. I think it will be highly valued when sold out. I did not buy the second bottle to sell. I purchased it to use personally, as I know I will want more of it when the first bottle runs out

One of the reviews says "over hyped", Um, there wasn't any hype for this so I'm a bit confused by that comment. This most definitely is not average. I'm seriously considering a back up as well.