Formulas by J.R. Elliott, from 1958-1961

[RomanB]

Chypre Oriental E.051

185	Bergamot essential oil	8007-75-8
100	Oakmoss resinoid	9000-50-4
120	Coumarin	91-64-5
25	Vanillin	121-33-5
18	Musk ambrette	83-66-9
35	Musk ketone	81-14-1
4	Phenylacetic acid	103-82-2
8	Vetiver oil	8016-96-4
8	Methyl ionone	127-42-4
7	Phenyl propyl alcohol	1123-85-9
45	Rhodinol	141-25-3
20	Castoreum absolute	8023-83-4
18	Ylang Bourbon extra	8006-81-3
4	Methyl salicylate	119-36-8
4	Rose Otto	8007-01-0
4	Estragon essential oil	8016-88-4
8	Patchouli oil	8014-09-3
5	Lavender essential oil	8000-28-0
10	Petitgrain essential oil	8014-17-3
3	Cinnamic aldehyde	104-55-2
6	Isoeugenol	97-54-1
15	Orange bitter oil	68916-04-1
35	Lemon essential oil	8008-56-8
7	2,6,10 trimethylundecylenic aldehyde
9	Aldehyde C14 10% DEP	104-67-6
8	Civet absolute synthetic
15	Amyl cinnamic aldehyde	122-40-7
10	Benzyl propionate	122-63-4
15	para-Methyl benzyl acetate	2216-45-7
30	Hydroxycitronellal	107-75-5
10	Benzyl acetate	140-11-4
9	Diethyl phtalate	84-66-2

 

[RomanB]

Chypre Base E.052

40	Bergamot essential oil	8007-75-8
40	Linalool	78-70-6
30	Sandalwood essential oil	8006-87-9
10	Orange bitter oil	68916-04-1
5	Lemon essential oil	8008-56-8
12	Ylang Bourbon extra	8006-81-3
8	Methyl ionone	127-42-4
4	Ionone, mixture of isomers	8013-90-9
15	Heliotropine	120-57-3
2	Ethyl vanillin	121-32-4
8	Oakmoss resinoid	9000-50-4
6	Musk xylol	81-15-2
2	Star Anise seed essential oil	68952-43-2
4	Coumarin	91-64-5
2	Civet absolute synthetic
2	Clary sage essentioal oil	8016-63-5
8	Benzyl propionate	122-63-4
6	Amyl cinnamic aldehyde	122-40-7
20	Nopyl acetate	128-51-8
1	Diethyl phtalate	84-66-2

 

[RomanB]

Amber For Chypres E.054

6	Amyl salicylate	2050-08-0
5	Aldehyde C12 MNA 10% DEP	110-41-8
6	Isobutyl phenylacetate	102-13-6
10	Phenylacetic acid	103-82-2
10	Dihydrocarvyl acetate	20405-60-1
14	Civet absolute synthetic
15	Benzyl propionate	122-63-4
20	Ylang Bourbon extra	8006-81-3
20	Ionone alpha	127-41-3
20	Nerolin Yara-Yara	93-04-9
20	Heliotropine	120-57-1
20	Phenyl propyl alcohol	1123-85-9
20	Castoreum absolute	8023-83-4
20	2,6,10 trimethylundecylenic aldehyde
20	Myrrh essential oil distilled	8016-37-3
25	Musk xylol	81-15-2
30	Musk ketone	81-14-1
30	Petitgrain essential oil	8014-17-3
30	Citronellyl oxyacetaldehyde	7492-67-3
40	Lemon essential oil	8008-56-8
42	Amyl cinnamic aldehyde	122-40-7
45	Musk ambrette	83-66-9
60	Orange bitter oil	68916-04-1
60	Methyl cinnamate	103-26-4
65	Coumarin	91-64-5
55	Methyl ionone	127-42-4
70	Labdanum absolute 10% DEP	8000-28-0
80	Ethyl vanillin	121-32-4
87	Phenylethyl phenylacetate	102-20-5

 

[RomanB]

A Modernized Cologne

5	"Jasmoketon" - cis-Jasmone? 10% DEP	488-10-8
5	"Mugoflor" - octahydro-5-(4-methoxybutylidene)-4,7-methano-1 H-indene
5	Decanal dimethyl acetal	7779-41-1
10	Methyl naphtyl ketone	93-08-3
10	Geranyl acetate	105-87-3
15	Linalyl acetate	115-95-7
15	Agrumen aldehyde
15	Verfural "F" 10% DEP - ?
20	Jasmin 6066H Reconstitue
25	Lavender essential oil	8000-28-0
30	Rosemary oil French	8000-25-7
40	"Hesperidol H/5" - Powerful, recalling peel of a freshly picked orange, note suggesting brightness of bergamot
60	Neroli essential oil, synthetic
125	Lemon essential oil	8008-56-8
150	Petitgrain essential oil	8014-17-3
160	Orange sweet oil	8008-57-9
350	Bergamot essential oil	8007-75-8

 

[RomanB]

Forest Modifier For The Modernized Cologne

1	Aldehyde C12 MNA 10% DEP	110-41-8
2	Aldehyde C12 Lauric 10% DEP	112-54-9
2	Jasmelia	38285-49-3
2	Methyl ionone	127-42-4
3	Linalool	78-70-6
3	Linalyl acetate	115-95-7
3	Phenylethyl propionate	120-45-6
4	Vetiveryl acetate	117-98-6
4	Lemon essential oil	8008-56-8
5	Dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate	151-05-3
6	Galbanum essential oil 10% DEP	8023-91-4
6	Lilial 10% DEP	80-54-6
8	Sandalwood essential oil	8006-87-9
10	Vetiver oil	8016-96-4
10	Bergamot essential oil	8007-75-8
10	Oakmoss resinoid	9000-50-4

 

[RomanB]

Good Quality Fougere

1	Carrot seed essential oil	8015-88-1
2	Estragon essential oil	8016-88-4
3	Sandalwood essential oil	8006-87-9
4	Oakmoss resinoid	9000-50-4
5	Vetiverol	8016-96-4
5	Patchouli oil	8014-09-3
8	Geranium essential oil	8000-46-2
8	Citronellol	106-22-9
10	Ionone, mixture of isomers	8013-90-9
10	Amyl salicylate	2050-08-0
15	Lavender essential oil	8000-28-0
15	Coumarin	91-64-5
35	Bergamot essential oil	8007-75-8

 

[RomanB]

Bay Rum Tonic

30	Bay essential oil	8006-78-8
10	"Formacetic ether" ?
2	Ethyl heptanoate	106-30-9
4	Eugenol	97-53-0
2	Clove essential oil terpenes	68917-29-3
3	Pimento oil	8006-77-7
3	Olibanum oil	8016-36-2
2	Patchouli oil	8014-09-3

 

[RomanB]

Colonial Bouquet

2	Irone alpha 10% DEP	79-69-6
2	Citronellyl oxyacetaldehyde	7492-67-3
2	Cyclamen aldehyde	103-95-7
2	Cardamom seed essential oil	8000-66-6
2	Phenylethyl propionate	120-45-6
2	Coriander seed essential oil	8008-52-4
4	Dihydrocitronellyl acetate	20780-49-8
4	Amyl salicylate	2050-08-0
4	Musk ketone	81-14-1
6	Orange bitter oil	68916-04-1
6	Nutmeg essential oil	8016-63-5
6	Ylang Bourbon extra	8006-81-3
6	Rosottone - aromatic chemical, scent of Otto rose, perfume base
6	Patchouli oil	8014-09-3
8	Lime distilled oil	8008-26-2
8	Lemon essential oil	8008-56-8
8	Heliotropine	120-57-4
8	Phenylethyl phenylacetate	102-20-5
10	Phenylethyl alcohol	60-12-8
10	Vetiver oil	8016-96-4
10	Woody acetate	32210-23-4
10	"Mugoflor" 5% DEP - octahydro-5-(4-methoxybutylidene)-4,7-methano-1 H-indene
12	Musk ambrette	83-66-9
12	Benzyl salicylate	118-58-1
12	Eugenol	97-53-0
12	Citronellol	106-22-9
14	Vetiveryl acetate	117-98-6
24	Isoeugenol	97-54-1

 

[RomanB]

Florida Water Modern

5	Irone alpha 10% DEP	79-69-6
5	Citronellyl oxyacetaldehyde	7492-67-3
5	Clary sage essentioal oil	8016-63-5
5	Jasmin acetate	1322-17-4
5	Dimethyl octanol	106-21-8
10	Tabac resinoide Incolore Robertet	8037-19-2
10	Phenylethyl isobutyrate	103-48-0
15	Neroli essential oil, synthetic
15	Geranium essential oil	8000-46-2
15	Nutmeg essential oil	8016-63-5
20	"Sylviola" - Very powerful. Sequisterpene ketone. Precious woody type, resembling sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, vetiver, orris, high grade ionones
25	Vetiverol	8016-96-4
25	Oakmoss resinoid	9000-50-4
25	Vetiveryl acetate	117-98-6
25	Nerol	106-25-2
30	Exaltone 10% DEP	502-72-7
30	Civet absolute synthetic
30	Lime distilled oil	8008-26-2
30	Benzyl salicylate	118-58-1
35	Ylang absolute	8006-81-3
40	Amyl salicylate	2050-08-0
40	Musk ambrette	83-66-9
45	Lilas Blanches RE. 0615
50	Hydroxycitronellal	107-75-5
50	Phenyl propyl alcohol	1123-85-9
60	Lemon essential oil	8008-56-8
60	Orange bitter oil	68916-04-1
60	Rose WN (Rose Wardia Naef?)
90	Carnation Base RE. 0616
125	Bergamot essential oil	8007-75-8

 

[RomanB]

Smoke Rise

2	Methyl ionone	127-42-4
2	Aldehyde C12 MNA 10% DEP	110-41-8
2	Phenylethyl alcohol	60-12-8
2	Geranium essential oil	8000-46-2
2	Civet absolute synthetic
2	"Resedalia" - diphenylethyl acetal ?
2	Amyl salicylate	2050-08-0
2	Petitgrain essential oil	8014-17-3
4	"Lilanthal" - Schiff: cyclamen aldehyde or lilial + methyl anthranilate
4	2,6,10 trimethylundecylenic aldehyde
4	Citronellol	106-22-9
4	Sandalwood essential oil	8006-87-9
4	Clove tree buds essential oil	8007-80-5
6	Hexyl cinnamic aldehyde	101-86-0
6	Coumarin	91-64-5
6	Ambergris tincture
8	Linalyl acetate	115-95-7
8	Bergamot essential oil	8007-75-8
8	Vetiver oil	8016-96-4
16	Geranyl acetate	105-87-3
24	Lavender essential oil	8000-28-0
24	Linalool	78-70-6
36	Clary sage essentioal oil	8016-63-5
36	Tobacco-amber RE. 0520
6	Leather blending base RE. 0519

 

[Emanuel76]

Gold!
Thank you!


=====


How strange it seems to me that I recognize almost all the aroma chemichals, or at least I have some clues! 😆

The bases are not a problem. I will replace them with the ones I will make myself.

Estragon = Tarragon

Lilas Blanches = White Lilac

 

[pkiler]

THANKS X 50 !

 

[Anti]

Thank you so much for sharing! My curiosity is piqued in re Sylviola...I see that it was last "owned" by Dow Chem Co. Does anyone have any information on this? It sounds intriguing.

 

[Jolieo]

Roman WOW - so generous and wonderful that you have shared this with us!
Mods - maybe this could be a sticky? - crazy useful
Roman have you tried any ?
Thanks again!

 

[RomanB]

Thank you so much for sharing! My curiosity is piqued in re Sylviola...I see that it was last "owned" by Dow Chem Co. Does anyone have any information on this? It sounds intriguing.

Sylviola was a cheaper variant of another ingredient, it was mentioned as such in an old advertisement. But I have no idea what was it.

 

[RomanB]

Roman WOW - so generous and wonderful that you have shared this with us!
Mods - maybe this could be a sticky? - crazy useful
Roman have you tried any ?
Thanks again!

Only one jasmine and like it a lot. I saw articles at a library and thought: “Aha, it could be of interest not only for me”. There is a problem with well-known sources: most were written in illustrative purposes and do not contain real manufacturing formulas. Winter’s formulas are utterly disappointing, for example. Appell’s formulas are considered misguiding by master perfumers and should be followed with great caution... I don’t know if those are real, but at least it is a different, coherent point of view.

The formulas are not the whole content of the articles, Mr. Elliott accompanies each with his thoughts, possible additions and uses. I haven’t included his formulas for functional perfumery like tasty lipsticks or cheap soaps. Also he writes in length how perfumes were matched before GC/MS: there were reagents do “turn off” some classes of ingredients like alcohols and see what remains without them. He illustrates his method by matching Crepe de Chine, and, unfortunately, his resulting formula doesn’t look right.

The articles are published in a strange manner: first there are a couple of pages in one place (mentioned in contents), and then the text is continued at much later pages, sometimes with further gaps.

As of sticky post - if moderators will like the idea, why not?

 

[Septime]

Sylviola was a cheaper variant of another ingredient, it was mentioned as such in an old advertisement. But I have no idea what was it.

From 'American Perfumer and Aromatics' (1960):

"It may be used in a variety of perfumes such as lavender fougere , chypre and woody types . Write for samples of Sylvenol ( or of Sylviola® , which offers many of the properties of Sylvenol at a lower cost )."

However the patent for Sylvenol is also expired, and it seems difficult to find the text of an expired patent so I can't tell you any more.

 

[Tharrys78]

Appell’s formulas are considered misguiding

why? I havent made any (yet) but I had high hopes

 

[RomanB]

why? I havent made any (yet) but I had high hopes

Because Appell used a special theoretical method of composition which flawed all proportions. Formulas might be right in the choice of major ingredients (or at least their directions), but not in particular numbers.

 

[Jolieo]

Because Appell used a special theoretical method of composition which flawed all proportions. Formulas might be right in the choice of major ingredients (or at least their directions), but not in particular numbers.

I don’t understand what you mean

 

[RomanB]

I don’t understand what you mean

Appell had a special method to build compositions, based on odor values or similar ideas. He was not interested in faithful copying, he was concerned with following his way in all cases. That’s why you can use his formulas as ingredient lists, but all proportions should be found anew.

 

[jfrater]

why? I havent made any (yet) but I had high hopes

The more common Jean Carles method was designed to help perfumers balance materials to get a well blended fragrance. Appell sought to do the same thing using a more "scientific" approach in which he rates the power of a material against, IIRC, citral. He then used those measurements to create balance. In some cases he did get numbers right, but his formulas are designed to demonstrate his principle rather than present the commercial originals. He did get many materials right (he had some inside knowledge obviously) and there is nothing wrong with the formulas per se - some make quite nice perfumes - but you shouldn't think they are the genuine article.

In his book for example, he makes a formula for L'Origan (formula 38) with 120 methyl ionone and a variety of other materials including 50 grams of iso eugenol and 60g of heliotropin. The formula is wrong on a lot (but not all - he got the heliotropin right). He makes a second version for powders (formula 264) which at leasst gets a little closer in some respects - 200 Dianthus and 170 Methyl Ionone. The real formula has 200 Dianthus and 250 Iralia (methyl ionone). It was the first perfume released to use both of those materials. It was very typical of Coty to use huge doses of new materials from big companies (bases and / or synthetics) and then accent them with florals for his end product. His formula for Chanel No 5 is even further off than L'Origan.

Here is my free formula for L'Origan which is based on the actual original formula and here is Chanel No 5 original and modern.