Evernyl

Jolieo

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2018
So we are discussing fougere for the next contest/game
I asked for examples of the classic or modern fougere- and I received a great fast reply of fougere being : bergamot, lavender, geranium, labdamum, couramin, and oakmoss.
I recently got evernyl- and on the strip it smelt powdery, but it simple formula it develops brighter, a bit floral, and adds intricacies. I love oakmoss, and I have Eden botanicals which is ifra certified- but I find oakmoss to be somewhat heavy, almost a grower .
I would love to here anyone’s opinions on either, or together if that is a thing. Does evernyl replace oakmoss in your book? Is it like so many acs that replace: just part of the replacement? And my all time quest: how do you dose this? Tgsc says 7% of concentrate , which seems an overdose, but I just got the stuff- what do I know?
Thanks!
 

parker25mv

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2016
I did not personally like the smell of Evernyl so much. I mean, it was not bad, but I did not find it very wonderful either.

This was my description of how it seemed to smell:
dusty, moldy moss, little harsh chemical edge like new carpet. More like the spicy deep aspect of moss. Moss-aspects but not green, maybe more like orange moss. Ivy, notes of deep petitgrain, mossy soap like grandpa would use. Might make a good base. I don't think it's bad, almost soft peppery, more on dry side, maybe more medicinal.
If I had to describe this smell, I would say it smells gray.
Is this the mineral note in Tom Ford's Anthracite? Maybe brings to mind granite.
maybe smells like computer printer ink, or a computer printer that has just printed something or has overheated
I can't decide whether I like this, but it's definitely interesting, I am kind of captivated by it, want to keep smelling to figure this one out

Of course I think it probably has some potential when combined with other things as part of a fragrance. This would be like a base in the background.

I think it is most of the smell of oakmoss, but not all of it. Real oakmoss has some intricacies to it that makes it smell better.
 

mnitabach

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2020
I have found the best way to appreciate evernyl is to compare a formula without any moss materials, with and without evernyl at a very low dose (0.1 to 1 ppt). It is extremely powerful in blends in ways that are not at all suggested by how it smells on smelling strip, conferring extremely tenacious mossy woody ambery effects. To me it doesn't have much to do with how oakmoss "smells" in higher doses but acts similarly to the "mossy" effects oakmoss has in very low doses.
 

Casper_grassy

Well-known member
May 5, 2020
For one evernyl plays half the role of the Baccarat Rouge 540 drydown(at this point when I smell evernyl I immediately think of BR540), it’s over 9%. Two I personally really like the smell, is it a replacer for oakmoss IMO, no. Is it integral to a fougere? Absolutely.
In this regard I do really like oakmoss givco which i’m not sure if it contains evernyl, that’s a “my bad” on my part but it surely smells like it does.

If I were you I’d start making tiny blends of those major fougere constituents and see how you like the evernyl in it. IMO on it’s own it pairs very nicely with a decent bergamot, or even if you put it with linalyl acetate and ethyl linalool.

You can also play around with evernyl blended with a more earthy/damp patchouli if you have, and some linalool oxide if you have.

The most minute amount of aphermate could also add a nice feel to evernyl in a fougere sense.

Lastly I would suggest for anyone another extremely minute dose of seaweed abs and wormwood. Evernyl is a very easy to work with material once you get going with it, as in I feel amongst many other materials it doesn’t lead to so much confusion, it’s kind of like more is more and less is less which in my exp in perfumery is a rarity and a blessing lol
 

Jolieo

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2018
Casper thank you! I don’t always feel acs are easy to work with, but evernyl is easy for me- and thank you for the wormwood suggestion! Really brilliant,also spikenard, and mugwort. Perfect!
 

Bobby Seven

Active member
Nov 12, 2016
I love it, it has an effervescent effect but dosing is key, it creeps up and can give a total moss bomb hours later if you're not careful!
 

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