Esxence 2015- Basenoters' tips

iodine

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2010
Here we are again.

A new edition of Esxence in a couple of weeks, a new (?!) looooong list of brands, (http://www.esxence.com/it/edizione2015/brand.php), super tacky or super pretentious websites that put immediately me off further inquiring, no clues what could be worth smelling... :undecided: Can someone help me?
If you have tips, if you're expecting some new interesting launches or you are aware of new, worth sniffing brands, please tell me, I'll report back.
Thanks in advance :smiley:
 

Roberto Duran's Gloves

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2014
The 2 new O'Driu releases Satyricon & Ven-de-ta should be well worth a sniff. Also, Vero's Rozy Exrait & Mortal Skin by Stephane Humbert Lucas
 
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Franco65

Well-known member
May 13, 2012
Here we are again.

A new edition of Esxence in a couple of weeks, a new (?!) looooong list of brands, (http://www.esxence.com/it/edizione2015/brand.php), super tacky or super pretentious websites that put immediately me off further inquiring, no clues what could be worth smelling... :undecided: Can someone help me?
If you have tips, if you're expecting some new interesting launches or you are aware of new, worth sniffing brands, please tell me, I'll report back.
Thanks in advance :smiley:

with Fuffas Scent Lab, the list would be complete!|:coolold:
 

hednic

Well-known member
Oct 25, 2007
You are fortunate that it is in your city. Just experience anything new from the houses you like and share your thoughts. I'm sure anything shared would be greatly appreciated.
 

Colin Maillard

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2013
I'll be there too - nothing in particular makes me curious, it's just free and a bunch of subway stops away from my place. :D

Nonetheless - pardon the "promotion" - a stand I'd suggest you in particular would be Rubini - I suggest that because it's totally new & obscure, so it may go unnoticed. I know the guy which owns it, he's a young and passionate shopkeeper which finally managed to launch this perfume (called "Fundamental"). I smelled a test on paper and it was really good, it has really little to do with niche trends - it's a really interesting sort of grapefruit/violet scent. Cristiano Canali (IFF) composed it. Not sure about the final result and how it smells on skin, but it may likely be worthy a sniff.
 
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Foustie

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2010
I'm going too! :cheesy: I've wanted to come over to Esxence for ages! Two of my friends were there a couple of years ago but I couldn't go at that time.

I'm probably well behind you, Iodine and Colin, with things I want to try, because availability in the UK is nowhere as good as Italy. I will be heading to Masque, did I not see Bogue on the list? Don't see them now, O'Driu (although I'm not new to Pregoni, but would want to see the stand), Nicolai, Jul et Mad, Le Manufacture, Stephane Humbert Lucas, Titziana Terenzi. ........ and on and on.

I would REALLY appreciate any tips if there are houses that you think we should be having a look at.
 

iodine

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2010
I'm going too! :cheesy: I've wanted to come over to Esxence for ages! Two of my friends were there a couple of years ago but I couldn't go at that time.

I'm probably well behind you, Iodine and Colin, with things I want to try, because availability in the UK is nowhere as good as Italy. I will be heading to Masque, did I not see Bogue on the list? Don't see them now, O'Driu (although I'm not new to Pregoni, but would want to see the stand), Nicolai, Jul et Mad, Le Manufacture, Stephane Humbert Lucas, Titziana Terenzi. ........ and on and on.

I would REALLY appreciate any tips if there are houses that you think we should be having a look at.

Great, Foustie! Haven't decided when I'll be going, yet, but I'd love to meet you! :smiley:

Yes, many brands are currently distributed in Milan, or in Italy so- except for fragrances that haven't been released yet- I can easily test things in shops, in a quieter and less crowded atmosphere. My problem is that I easily lose my patience and my sense of smell grows quickly tired, so I can't just walk and smell everything!

No Vero this year. I guess some houses are there only if they have new products and I think she has none.

Hope tips and suggestions will keep coming! :dankk2:
 

iodine

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2010
So, after having gone through the whole list of brands, having browsed their websites- when available, having double checked here on BN and having given myself a certain set of rules (i.e.: avoiding all the brands I can easily find in regular shops; avoiding extra- luxury brands; avoiding brands whose website is IMO too tacky, or too pretentious or too obscure- I know I'm a bit selective, but my nose neurons are limited :grin:) I've come to this test list:

Pierre Guillaume Croisiere
Le Galion
Mendittorosa
Miya Shinma
Parfums Volnay
Room 1015
Maison Chabaud


I'll be glad to hear any other suggestion, or any thought on these and others from you! Thanks
 

furrypine

Community Manager
Staff member
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2007
So, after having gone through the whole list of brands, having browsed their websites- when available, having double checked here on BN and having given myself a certain set of rules (i.e.: avoiding all the brands I can easily find in regular shops; avoiding extra- luxury brands; avoiding brands whose website is IMO too tacky, or too pretentious or too obscure- I know I'm a bit selective, but my nose neurons are limited :grin:) I've come to this test list:

Pierre Guillaume Croisiere
Le Galion
Mendittorosa
Miya Shinma
Parfums Volnay
Room 1015
Maison Chabaud


I'll be glad to hear any other suggestion, or any thought on these and others from you! Thanks

It will be interesting to hear if Le Galion has (somewhat) faithfully recreated their scents, or if they smell very modern.

Room 1015 is getting hyped as something new and daring, but the notes sounds pretty standard to me. Looking forward to an honest assessment of the line! :thumbup:
 

iodine

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2010
Furrypine, ever heard of Malbrum? They appear to be Norwegian- they hint to a certain Norwegian joie de vivre....:smiley:
 

furrypine

Community Manager
Staff member
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Mar 4, 2007
Furrypine, ever heard of Malbrum? They appear to be Norwegian- they hint to a certain Norwegian joie de vivre....:smiley:

Never heard of the brand, thanks for telling me, I'll get them into the directory. None of the scents sound Norwegian-themed, but how could they be, we don't exactly have an abundance of native fragrant plants to be inspired by!

If there's going to be a hint of Norwegian joie de vivre in the scents I think that's best expressed with a strong accord of Pilsner :tongue:
 

hednic

Well-known member
Oct 25, 2007
So, after having gone through the whole list of brands, having browsed their websites- when available, having double checked here on BN and having given myself a certain set of rules (i.e.: avoiding all the brands I can easily find in regular shops; avoiding extra- luxury brands; avoiding brands whose website is IMO too tacky, or too pretentious or too obscure- I know I'm a bit selective, but my nose neurons are limited :grin:) I've come to this test list:

I'll be glad to hear any other suggestion, or any thought on these and others from you! Thanks
I am very familiar with these lines, in fact I have all the fragrances of these three lines in your list. I have owned Chabaud fragrances for over 12 years and don't believe anyone here on Basenotes has ever spoken about Chabaud except me, so I would love to hear what you think.

Le Galion
Parfums Volnay
Maison Chabaud
 
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deadidol

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Jan 19, 2013
Furrypine, ever heard of Malbrum? They appear to be Norwegian- they hint to a certain Norwegian joie de vivre....:smiley:
I've tried them — they were all done by Delphine Thierry. And, well, let's just say I'm interested to hear what others think. They all have a sort of gourmand / sweet / burned character to them.

And have fun, everyone who's going!
 
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Kiliwia

Moderator
Moderator
Basenotes Plus
Apr 2, 2010
So, after having gone through the whole list of brands, having browsed their websites- when available, having double checked here on BN and having given myself a certain set of rules (i.e.: avoiding all the brands I can easily find in regular shops; avoiding extra- luxury brands; avoiding brands whose website is IMO too tacky, or too pretentious or too obscure- I know I'm a bit selective, but my nose neurons are limited :grin:) I've come to this test list:

Pierre Guillaume Croisiere
Le Galion
Mendittorosa
Miya Shinma
Parfums Volnay
Room 1015
Maison Chabaud


I'll be glad to hear any other suggestion, or any thought on these and others from you! Thanks

Great list, Iodine! Can't wait to hear what you think of the different brands.

So happy for all who are going to Esxence! Have a great time!
 

Colin Maillard

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2013
Le Galion perfumes are obnoxious, they did a terrible job with their "heritage". There's surely better exhibitors to give your time to. :D
 

iodine

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2010
They all have a sort of gourmand / sweet / burned character to them.

it must be the beer accord Furrypine refers to- though not Pilsner at all! :grin:. I'll check. Maybe. Very quickly.

So, thanks to Colin, I'll check very quickly the obnoxious Galion (they are actually already distributed in Milan but I don't hang out at that particular shop) and see if some other inspiration comes.
 

Colin Maillard

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2013
Actually I have to admit the three new ones by Le Galion aren't that bad, especially an extrait I have not been told the name of. Cuir is nice but it kind of reminded me of Aigner's Black (some 20-eur mall's scent). The main flaw of all the three new ones is that they share a sort of cheap heaviness which I don't really enjoy, basically as in many low-profile designer perfumes.

Other random stuff I've tested today: the new Etat Libre d'Orange (a negligible citrusy-sparkling scent), the three new Jul et Mad which as usual smell total quality, the new Unum line which is quite fascinating, terribly solid concept-wise and really well made (the Terenzi's produce them) yet somehow a bit trendy-ish (especially the incense scent); then Neela Vermeire's Pichola which is fine, and Jardin d'Ecrivains' new Marlowe, which as the rest of the line, is for me a kind of decently made and for me completely derivative boozy-musky-floral "dark" scent, a bit weak for the concept imho.
 
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gandhajala

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2010
Actually I have to admit the three new ones by Le Galion aren't that bad, especially an extrait I have not been told the name of. Cuir is nice but it kind of reminded me of Aigner's Black (some 20-eur mall's scent). The main flaw of all the three new ones is that they share a sort of cheap heaviness which I don't really enjoy, basically as in many low-profile designer perfumes...

Three new ones from Le Galion? I'd be interested in checking them out.
I'm not familiar with the original versions, but found the re-releases to be pretty decent (if a little conservative).
Cheers for keeping us informed, Colin.
 

iodine

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2010
So, in the end I went, this morning and in less than one hour I was outside.
Some stands were already deserted (Le Galion, who was very generous with samples, a friend told me :angry:, and the Malbrum!); others were empty with people but full with photographers and film makers (Room 1015, Masque), so I skipped them. Some were run by very rude and scarcely knowing (Italian) people that didn't pay you much attention if you weren't a retailer or someone in the press (Chabaud, the distributors of Pierre Guillaume... Lui, Pierre, was in the background, submerged by people probably more interested in his business than in his fragrances). In a few stands there were nice people,very kind and informative with simple amateurs that didn't ooze money and glamour (Volnay, Rubini, Unum).
The guy at the Osmotheque counter was super- nice and very generous with the precious strips imbued in vintage fragrances (this year I went with Après L'Ondée, Liu, Chanel Cuir de Russie and the fabulous Tabac Blond).
But- did I smell something good?
Yes, the Unum line, as Colin Maillard promptely pointed out, is quite stunning.
The Rubini is nice, fresh and unconventionally fruity.
The Volnay are, I would say, correct but rather conventional. The lady at the counter- the owner of the brand, if my French assisted me well!- explained the history of the brand and told me: "all the perfumes here around descend from the ancestors of these fragrances". True, but in the end they all seemed a bit "deja- senti".
The Minya Shinma- beautiful bottles and evocative Japanese names- all very watery, very pale, very fresh. I guess they are not intended for a Western or Near Eastern public.
The Pierre Guillaume- hard to tell, the lady at the counter was quite irritating and knew almost nothing of the fragrances, except for the brief, she kept reading the notes from a brochure. I guess I lost her when I doubted I was smelling the fragrance she claimed... Anyway, the 4 fragrances due to be released now are overall quite nice and unusual, expecially Entre Ciel et Mer, really marine, almost fishy and Long Courier, a quirky vanilla. I gave a quick sniff to the other four, none striking me in particular.
That's all.
Thank you again for the tips. :smiley:
 

Colin Maillard

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2013
The Pierre Guillaume- hard to tell, the lady at the counter was quite irritating and knew almost nothing of the fragrances, except for the brief, she kept reading the notes from a brochure. I guess I lost her when I doubted I was smelling the fragrance she claimed...

I had the EXACT same feeling! Just to be polite and do a bit of conversation I tried to comment the fragrances while sniffing them, she looked at me as if I was a talking Muppet, just showing me that depressing brochure.

Happy you like Unum and Rubini though, basically they're the nicest newcomers for me this year... and as you say, both adorable and humble people.

Have you tried the new Jul et Mad's, and Angela Ciampagna line? I quite liked them both too.
 
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iodine

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2010
Have you tried the new Jul et Mad's, and Angela Ciampagna line? I quite liked them both too.

Both fell in my very personal idiosyncratic ban-list: too expensive, J&M; with an offputting- to me- aesthetic the AC website... :undecided:
Glad you liked them, though!

And O'Driu... I know I'm probably missing a lot, not having ever smelt his fragrances, I know I'm a cultural retrograde, but the mere appearance of him shrouded in a white blanket, this morning, just made me want to get out there faster... Sorry :smiley:
 

pants

Well-known member
Dec 21, 2013
ugh. pregoni & his antics. i *wish* i didn't enjoy his fragrances (at least the newish ones) as much as i do. i'm most curious to hear reviews but can understand why folks would avoid him. i hope he left the chickens unmolested this year.
 

Colin Maillard

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2013
At this Expo, does one have the chance to purchase bottles of new fragrances or not?

I've been personally offered to buy bottles with a heavy discount - distributor's price, basically - from a brand, but I am not sure whether that would be officially allowed (I doubt that). I mean they don't have cash registers and stuff at the counters...

- - - Updated - - -

By the way also Rubini is a standout for me, there's something I really like in that fragrance they showcased.
 

drseid

Sound Scents
Basenotes Plus
Jun 1, 2003
I've tried the Chabaud line some time ago. There is a very nice fig one in that line.

I have tried the entire line and felt that one was probably the best thing they did (along with the buttery Lait Concentré). Most of the line was truly awful though. There is a great tendency to sickening sweetness with many of the Chabaud offerings and that is a big "no-no" for me. My guess is folks that love their compositions super sugar candy sweet will enjoy them a lot more than I did.
 
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mumsy

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jan 31, 2010
I have tried the entire line and felt that one was probably the best thing they did (along with the buttery Lait Concentré). Most of the line was truly awful though. There is a great tendency to sickening sweetness with many of the Chabaud offerings and that is a big "no-no" for me. My guess is folks that love their compositions super sugar candy sweet will enjoy them a lot more than I did.

Nice if you like wearing biscuits and toffees. I thought their composition build was overall very good over the range but they were too quiet, soft and far, far too sweet. Might be designed for french young girls taste for all I know. My daughter liked them all but she's only just a teenager.
 

mumsy

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jan 31, 2010
Mumsy, where did you have a chance to try them - in the UK or in France?

They were sent to me to assess a long time ago, but they originally came from France. I liked her work but the perfumes aromas weren't for me. I'm too old for such sweeties. I'm a green chypre sort. I did love the figgy one though. Like a fig grove in the sunshine.
 

Foustie

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 1, 2010
Hi everyone. OK, here we go. I'll try to be succinct.....(unlikely) :wink:

Fist of all we had a fantastic weekend in Milan. There were six of us there and we have all been several times before but I must say that we really enjoyed Milan so much this time. The sun was shining and there just seemed to be a great atmosphere in Milan this weekend.

So, Esxence. Well, I have a few things to say about it below but lets start with the fragrance. Bear in mind that there were around 160 exhibitors so you just have to target some and dip in where you can. I know that I will have completely missed a lot of great stuff.

I have three absolute standouts (both in terms of the fragrances AND the people presenting them), and some honourable mentions. Here they are, just in the order that we discovered them;

Masque Milano;

Terrific! I am really blown away by this whole collection, and I also want to tell you that Alessandro Brun, co- founder and creative director, gave me a lot of time and he personally talked me through the whole collection one at a time. He understood that I was genuinely interested and he was informative and very pleasant in return. He gave me samples of the range. Favourites are Terralba and Russian Tea. Meeting him and discovering Masque fragrances was one of the highlights of my visit.

Actually I need to dash for a while, be back later......

- - - Updated - - -

Hi again. Next;

X - Ray Profumo. (The collection in it's new presentation seems to be called XRX Profumo). An oasis of FUN in a sea of snobbery. They are delightful! There seems to be little written about this brand. I don't know this, but I think that maybe the first launch didn't become that well known? They are being relaunched with a new presentation. But I tell you, the fragrances made us *smile*. They simply smelled great, and for me they stood out amongst some very sombre and serious collections. I think sometimes that we forget that above all perfume is meant to make you feel good! And this collection made my friend and I feel good. Ray Burns complete lack of pretension was so refreshing. Despite being very stylish, and handsome, and having a long history in a very chic business, he was fun, funny, and on the level. I didn't get the name of the woman that was working with him. I wish I had. She was lovely and she had lots to say about the fragrances. I'm looking forward to telling you more about these. And I can do that because they also gave us samples.

- - - Updated - - -

Jul et Mad;

Beautiful, intelligent, and elegant. And the fragrances aren't bad either..........

I was nearly done in when we decided that we had to stop at Jul et Mad, and I am so pleased that we did. We met both Julien and Madalina and they were charming and lovely. The fragrances are wonderful, elegant, very chic. I absolutely fell for Terrasse a St_Germain, on the spot, and my friend was crazy about one of the others ( I can't remember which one). They gave us each a "love dose" of our favourite, which is a beautifully presented little miniature. I must order samples of the others somewhere so that I can join in a chat about them.

Honourable mentions to;

Bruno Acampora. Lovely friendly women and very generous with their samples which were offered enthusiatically. (not a common occurrence I can tell you !) I can't say much about the fragrances yet but I am really looking forward to trying them at my leisure.

Puredistance;
Very helpful, and interested in customers. gave us lovely little sample sets and brochures which I much look forward to trying properly.

Mark Buxton.
Because my friends would kill me if I didn't mention him! I didn't have much time at his stand myself but two of my friends had met him before and were keen to visit his stand again. One of my friends has his whole collection except the new ones and she will definately get those too, and he is a laugh.

Castle Forbes. The Scottish ones that I had never smelled! It turns out they stock them in a place about two miles from my house! Male grooming type. Old fashioned and gentlemanly. I really liked their Fougere, "1445" and I will buy it.

Angelo Pregoni . An honourable mention for Mr Pregoni. I know, I know. Say what you like and yep there was an installation with meat and fish on it, and yep, there was a buzz in the cafe about him. But I can only say that I met him and he was very gentlemanly. He was talking me through his newer fragrances and the concepts behind them. Then the press came to film him and we had to skedaddle out of the frame, but he directed an assistant to continue to attend to us.

More to come about the exhibition itself and someone else that I met.........


 

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