Happy New Year, Everyone! I haven't had the operationality to visit the forum much in the last months. I hope that it will change in this new year.
A couple of months ago, I promised to post some amber formulas, so in an attempt to force this change, I am glad to present you with three eight-line amber formulas.
In the spirit of the new year and the passage of time, the three different formulas represent my perception of the evolution of the Amber accord.
These formulas mainly aim at being straightforward enough for you to experiment with and develop your own understanding of the accord. I am Looking forward to your comment, thoughts, and results.
As usual, these can be diluted down to 5% in ethanol and tested on paper or skin.
A couple of months ago, I promised to post some amber formulas, so in an attempt to force this change, I am glad to present you with three eight-line amber formulas.
In the spirit of the new year and the passage of time, the three different formulas represent my perception of the evolution of the Amber accord.
These formulas mainly aim at being straightforward enough for you to experiment with and develop your own understanding of the accord. I am Looking forward to your comment, thoughts, and results.
As usual, these can be diluted down to 5% in ethanol and tested on paper or skin.
Ambré 1883 | |
|---|---|
| Labdanum Resinoid | 450 |
| Ethylene Brassylate | 125 |
| Vanillin | 200 |
| alpha-Terpinyl Acetate | 75 |
| Linalool | 60 |
| Clearwood (Fir) | 65 |
| Linalyl Acetate | 24 |
| Ebanol (Giv) | 1 |
| Total: | 1000 |
Ombré 1988 | |
|---|---|
| Bacdanol (IFF) | 295 |
| Galaxolide (IFF) 50% in IPM | 240 |
| Cedramber | 140 |
| Hedione (Fir) | 95 |
| Ambrox Super (Ambroxan) | 85 |
| Ethyl Linalool | 85 |
| Ethyl Vanillin | 50 |
| Ambrarome | 10 |
| Total: | 1000 |
Électrifié 8008 | |
|---|---|
| Veratraldehyde | 290 |
| Cetalox (Fir) | 245 |
| Sylvamber (DRT) | 130 |
| Habanolide Subst. (Fir) | 130 |
| Lindenol | 115 |
| Coranol (Firm) | 70 |
| Javanol (Giv) | 15 |
| Norlimbanol | 5 |
| Total: | 1000 |
These look great! (What is "habanolide subst"? Something different from habanolide?)
- Thread starter
- #4
Thank you, I hope you will enjoy it.
Usually, I try to avoid naturals in these formulas to make our experiments more comparable. Yet, with Ambre 83 as a starting point, I felt it would be wrong to completely avoid the natural Labdanum products.
Usually, I try to avoid naturals in these formulas to make our experiments more comparable. Yet, with Ambre 83 as a starting point, I felt it would be wrong to completely avoid the natural Labdanum products.
I do not have any Ambrein here, so I am not sure how it compares to my Ambrarome, but I say give it a try and see how it goes.
I wanted to use Habanolide but didn't have any at hand. This 'Subst' is a mixture I got from De Hekserij. This is the description on their website (google translated):
What's the Labdanum you use? The one I have I dilute to 5% and it is still very strong. That amount would totally kill everything else. Sounds interesting though so will try with less of it. Thanks for the post.
- Thread starter
- #6
I agree. It depends a lot on the exact effect you would like to achieve, as well as the specifics of your Labdanum. My Labdanum is a Resinoid, and I am unsure of the exact source.
The most work I put into the Ambré 1883 formula was finding the point where it is very heavy on the Labdanum, but still as heavy on the Vanillin as I want it to be. Try yours with different ratios and see what gives you better results.
I have seen formulas where the ratio even goes much higher on the Labdanum and opposite ones (like Christophe Laudamiel's Tom Ford Amber Absolute) where it's 2 : 1 for the Vanillin.
Altho implicit in this response, it's worth pointing out explicitly that what is important in skeletal accords like these eight-liners isn't the absolute percent of formula. These will always seem bizarrely high when compared to "complete perfume" formulas with many more materials. Rather, what matters are the ratios among the various components.
- May 5, 2020
Big L : Habanolide Substitute
Mikey : Yes.
Mikey : Yes.
- Thread starter
- #9
- Apr 4, 2021
I now made all three formulations. And the three are more different than I thought. I'll try to describe my olfactory associations with them, even if it's really hard. I have all tested on my skin and looked at how they develop over time. I have looked how it smells directly on the skin and when I fan the smell with my hand to my nose, to see how it would smell for someone walking past me.
Ambré 1883
The impression immediately after application was ambery, ethereal-spicy, slightly sweet floral. After a few minutes resinous of coniferous wood. Its very nice masculine, ambery, terpenic if I fan the smell to me. Clearly my favorite, even if the terpenic decreases somewhat over time.
Ombré 1988
Interestingly, after adding just the first four materials it smelled to me exactly like such a perfume that I would call "nightclub bouncer smell", because it is worn with pleasure by men who have back-sailed hair, are small machos and often work as bouncers at discos (without wanting to offend anyone now). The complete perfume is very radiant, sweetish. After some minutes it gets more sweet and a bit floral. When you fan it, its very vanilla, sweetish, masculine.
Électrifié 8008
This one is hard to describe, reminds me a bit of salty seaweed if you smell directly. When fanned it is very nice masculine, but also has that "nightclub bouncer vibe" to it. I must say that I absolutely did not like Norlimbanol until now, but in this formulation I find it quite pleasant for the first time. It stayed the longest of all of them on my skin.
Ambré 1883
The impression immediately after application was ambery, ethereal-spicy, slightly sweet floral. After a few minutes resinous of coniferous wood. Its very nice masculine, ambery, terpenic if I fan the smell to me. Clearly my favorite, even if the terpenic decreases somewhat over time.
Ombré 1988
Interestingly, after adding just the first four materials it smelled to me exactly like such a perfume that I would call "nightclub bouncer smell", because it is worn with pleasure by men who have back-sailed hair, are small machos and often work as bouncers at discos (without wanting to offend anyone now). The complete perfume is very radiant, sweetish. After some minutes it gets more sweet and a bit floral. When you fan it, its very vanilla, sweetish, masculine.
Électrifié 8008
This one is hard to describe, reminds me a bit of salty seaweed if you smell directly. When fanned it is very nice masculine, but also has that "nightclub bouncer vibe" to it. I must say that I absolutely did not like Norlimbanol until now, but in this formulation I find it quite pleasant for the first time. It stayed the longest of all of them on my skin.
I'm pretty sure the "masculine" is lots of ambrox + lots of musk + lots of woody amber.
- Thread starter
- #12
The 1988 one is definitely about pulling the classic amber accord in the ambrox direction of the '80s.
The 1883 I would not originally think of as masculine like ploysom describe it. Still, on second thought, I can get this association. Nevertheless, I would say that this kind of "masculinity" derived from the labdanum is pretty different than the ambrox one. Although they both have a strong connection to ambergris.
Last edited:
Another way to strongly masculinize accords with ambrox + musk + woody ambers is with small amounts of isoeugenol.
- Apr 4, 2021
This is true. Rebuilding the accords was very educational, by the way.
- Sep 13, 2022
Hello from Cairo, Egypt. please bear with me, as I'm newbie to the world of fragrances. I've fallen in love with essential oils, and have been dabbling to craft DIY room sprays, body butters, and cleaning products for myself, my family & friends. I've decided to turn this love into a small business introducing Air fresheners and deodorants. However, I'm facing many challenges given that the ingredients are difficult to find in my country.
Excuse my ignorance, could you please clarify what are these ingredients you've listed in your formulas? are they artificial fragrances that can be found at fragrance suppliers? the only one I know is labdanum. Thank you very much
- May 5, 2020
They are aroma chemicals, a few are sold natural and synthetic, but mostly they’re synthetic. I’m not sure which supplier is nearest to you, maybe perfumersworld.
- May 22, 2023
Hello,
I'm new to perfume making. Are the measurements in these formulas in grams? Thanks
They're just ratios; they can be whatever unit you want them to be as long as their relative weights remain the same.
If you're making 1000 grams total, and the formula totals to 1000 parts then *poof* 1 part is 1 gram, so a material that says 85 would be 85 grams. If you're making 10 grams total, then 1 part is 0.01 grams and a material that says 85 would mean 0.85g. If you're making 7.5 grams total then 1 part is 0.0075g, and a material that says 85 would mean 0.6375g.
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