Eau D'Orange Verte: formulation: 1979 vs. 1997 vs. 2009

Which Hermes EDC/EDOV formulation is your favorite?

  • 1979 Eau De Cologne (the original EDOV)

    Votes: 4 10.0%
  • 1997 Eau D'Orange Verte

    Votes: 8 20.0%
  • 2009 Eau D'orange Verte

    Votes: 4 10.0%
  • Haven't smelled them all yet.

    Votes: 24 60.0%

  • Total voters
    40

DULLAH

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 25, 2007
Curious if anyone has tried the newest 2009 reformulation?,
featuring a new player: Black Currant:
o.8031.jpg


...and has a solid opinion on how different/similar it is to the 1997 version we all know and love.
Not liking the new bottle as much as the previous ones, but I'm assuming the currant maybe gives the sour top notes a bit more lasting power, as currant is very sour and citric, naturally...

I have seen the original 1979 Hermes Eau De Cologne:

HERMES-EAU-DE-COLOGNE-VERT3.jpg

HermesDeOrangeVert_m.jpg


...and it is said to be similar to 1997 Eau D'Orange verte, except with more Oakmoss, unsurprisingly.
Truly a groundbreaking EDC, using papaya and mango in the classiest unisex way in 1979!!

Everyone knows the 1997 version and packaging:

nd.3019.jpg
 
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teohha

Basenotes Member
Jul 7, 2009
How do i tell the difference between the 97 and the 09? Is there a difference in the bottle?
 

DULLAH

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 25, 2007
Quite easily.
The 2009 bottle is the same as the "Pampelmousse Rose" and "Gentiane Blanche" bottles. It features a cast-in-glass crest and smalle printed logo towards the bottom, whereas the 1997 bottle had only 2 printed logos, no cast-in crest.
 

Morgaine

Basenotes Dependent
Sep 23, 2007
I actually prefer the new bottle. Can't comment on the scent, though - would love to hear everybody's impressions.
 

L'Aventurier

Basenotes Dependent
May 8, 2008
Dullah, are you sure they reformulated in 2009, or did they just change the bottle? I have the 1997 version and I love it! Hopefully someone can comment on the new bottles smell?

Edit: OK, I just googled it. The 2009 version is actually a totally new interpretation of the classic, with the new one being composed by Jean Claude Ellena. Anyone know if the old one is gonna be discontinued now?
 
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scentsitivity

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 17, 2007
While EdOV has at least one shortcoming (i.e., its extremely ephemeral topnotes), the idea of a totally new interpretation of it is a very disappointing notion to me.

Some things should be respected and not altered.

I do hope to try the 2009 version though to see what it is like.
 

scentsitivity

Basenotes Dependent
Jan 17, 2007
At the Hermes site they describe it as, "An intense and invigorating freshness with a woody signature", with no direct reference to reforumulation. Woody signature?

Also it is listed under Les Colognes Hermès with Pamplemousse Rose and Eau de Gentiane Blanche.

Okay, anyone who has smelled this and the previous incarnations, please share with us the differences (and similarities)!
 

hirch_duckfinder

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Apr 8, 2006
The old one can't possibly continue - its basically made of IFRA restricted ingredients - various citrus components and oakmoss.
 

DocmanCC

Basenotes Dependent
Apr 2, 2007
As a lover of the 1997 EdOV, I look forward to (and perhaps dread) trying the scent in the new packaging. I hope Hermes new boutique in Seattle is open next weekend...
 

DULLAH

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 25, 2007
While EdOV has at least one shortcoming (i.e., its extremely ephemeral topnotes), the idea of a totally new interpretation of it is a very disappointing notion to me.

Some things should be respected and not altered.

I do hope to try the 2009 version though to see what it is like.
I agree.
But don't worry, there will be enough of the 1997 version floating around for years and years on ebay and online discounters.

I still have yet to smell the 2009, but am very eager due to the piquancy and tartness of blackcurrant.
 

L'Aventurier

Basenotes Dependent
May 8, 2008
OK, I just noticed I had the new bottle all this time LOL. It's the same dark green as the old 1997 ones, but the logo is engraved into the glass.

It smells the same as the older one to me... Maybe I've just not had a chance to try juice actually from 1997.... Maybe I got the new bottle but not the new juice inside yet? So confusing....
 
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the_good_life

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 2, 2006
I've only tried the new stuff once at a perfumery and found it decidedly inferior, as it smelled decidedly less of natural oils. What works for Terre d'Hermes is a desecration in the case of Ed'OV. My vintage bottle has lost too many topnotes for proper judgement, but the base does seem mossier. I can live very well with the 97 version and will try to stock up a little, especially as this ios one of the few things my wife both enjoys and can wear without an allergic reaction (oh the irony).
 

oakman

Super Member
Jul 22, 2009
I have been using this since its launch in 79,and have just bought a new bottle last week .The Hermes store said it was exactly the same formulation with no change , just repackaged .To be honest I have not noticed any dramatic difference in the 09 version ,it seems if anything a little more citrus on the opening but that is all ! I would love to know what Hermes have done with all the old stock , as I never saw any of it reduced ,it has probally been destroyed as they do with the unsold sale items !!!
 

gupts

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 6, 2006
I just wish this lasted longer than it does as I really like it and enjoy it. It smells so natural to me.
Maybe I should try to track down the vintage version. Any idea where I can get some?
 

the_good_life

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Jun 2, 2006
I have been using this since its launch in 79,and have just bought a new bottle last week .The Hermes store said it was exactly the same formulation with no change , just repackaged .To be honest I have not noticed any dramatic difference in the 09 version ,it seems if anything a little more citrus on the opening but that is all ! I would love to know what Hermes have done with all the old stock , as I never saw any of it reduced ,it has probally been destroyed as they do with the unsold sale items !!!

Many older bottles were popping up on ebay a few months ago.
 

DULLAH

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 25, 2007
My vintage bottle has lost too many topnotes for proper judgement, but the base does seem mossier.
Is this vintage bottle labled "Eau D'Orange verte" or "Eau De Cologne"
I am interested in the first generation , prior to being called "Eau D'Orange Verte"
This first generation is listed most of the ingredients the same as the 1997 version, except with the additions of Honeysuckle and Sandalwood. If your vintage bottle is the 1979, can you detect any honeysuckle or Sandalwood?
nd.4661.jpg
 
S

Sorcery of Scent

Guest
tnedc82.jpg

This is a very interesting point you bring to the table Dullah.
There is a store in Copenhagen which, last time I visited, had 2 minis of Eau de Cologne Hermés - I think one empty and another with juice still in it. I dont know if the juice is compromised, but perhaps next time I visit the big smoke, I might try and check it out (at this rate, that will be early March). It would certainly be interesting to compare formulations.

PS: Your poster is from a 1991 campaign. The one I have pictured above is from 1982... the earliest I could find.
 
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DULLAH

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 25, 2007
Cool cool.
Eager to hear more comments on any of the 3 formulations,
or especially of any history regarding on of my all-time favorite scents.
 

DULLAH

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 25, 2007
It seems that even after the name changed, for awhile, the bottle still had the classic, full Hermes logo crest sitting high on the front, with "Eau D'Orange Verte" in the same text, written as a part of the crest, below it:
Eaudorangeverte.jpg
87853380-149x149-0-0_Hermes+Hermes+Eau+d+Orange+Verte+Hermes+for+Men+ED.jpg

I wonder was the name change when the 1st reformulation took place? removing the honeysuckle and some moss? perhaps 1997 was just a bottle change?
 
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S

Sorcery of Scent

Guest
When I was using it in 91-92, it was eau de cologne Hermés and it had the crest at the top. Precisely as pictured in your top photo. I remember it distinctly.

In my pic the Hermes logotype sits above the Carriage logo, and the fragrance name sits at the bottom (this is when it read "Eau de Cologne Hermes").
On your last pic it has the word HERMES above the logo, and "Eau d'Orange Vert" beneath the logo. The Company name is repeated at the bottom of the front of the bottle.
 
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DULLAH

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 25, 2007
tnedc82.jpg

above is from 1982... the earliest I could find.
So the earliest bottle has the Hermes crest high on the bottle, and text saying "Eau de Cologne" sitting very low on the bottle.
Then the campaign you said is from 1991, has the hermes crest, high on the bottle, with "Eau de cologne" as a part of the crest, and nowhere on the bottle is the word "orange" or "Verte"

Does anyone know what year the "Eau D'Orange Verte" name came about?
Clearly prior to 1997, and after 1991?
 
S

Sorcery of Scent

Guest
So the earliest bottle has the Hermes crest high on the bottle, and text saying "Eau de Cologne" sitting very low on the bottle.
Then the campaign you said is from 1991, has the hermes crest, high on the bottle, with "Eau de cologne" as a part of the crest, and nowhere on the bottle is the word "orange" or "Verte"

Does anyone know what year the "Eau D'Orange Verte" name came about?
Clearly prior to 1997, and after 1991?

Weeeelll... its a bit more complicated than that... there is also an early version of the bottle with a different variation again.
if you give me a wee bit, I am piecing together a visual timeline of bottles (to the best of my ability). I will post it here when Im done :)
 
S

Sorcery of Scent

Guest
OK, so this is a run down of the full-size bottles. I haven't included miniatures, because their configuration of logos etc are very diverse. I've also omitted the EdOV flankers (Aroma d'Orange Verte, Aroma d'Orange Verte Icy Energising Spray and Concentrée d'Orange Verte).
This is the best I could do in terms of a cohesive time-line, and these dates are approximate, but as close as I can get:

I would welcome anyone who may know the correct order of these. This is what I suspect so far:

edov2.jpg
 
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DULLAH

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 25, 2007
^Yes! This seems about right.
Eager to hear opinions of the early "Eau De Cologne" formulation!
 

L'Aventurier

Basenotes Dependent
May 8, 2008
Cool timeline Dimi!

Can you comment on the change in the scent over the years since you've been using it (ie. early 90s until now)?
 
S

Sorcery of Scent

Guest
Cool timeline Dimi!

Can you comment on the change in the scent over the years since you've been using it (ie. early 90s until now)?

I can't say I was very conscious about it at the time (ie: early to late 90s) as I was a bit of a fledgling with my interest in perfume for much of that time. What I will say is that I noticed a notable change in the EdOV around 2004 at about the same time Concentrée d'Orange Verte was launched. I seem to remember the scent I had in the early 90s was a less bitter and slightly sweeter orange. The version around today seems to have gone the other way a little. I have to admit that if I found one of the bottles with the hard green top today, I would like to buy one.
 
S

Sorcery of Scent

Guest
Does anyone know what year the "Eau D'Orange Verte" name came about?

Actually Ive done a little hunting around and confirm it WAS in 1997 when the frag was re-christened EdOV. This means I was in possession of an EdCH bottle as my first! (Ive edited my earlier point so as to not confuse the topic).
 

narcus

Basenotes Dependent
Mar 9, 2005
As a fan of Dior's Eau Fraiche and (vintage) Sauvage I simply never tried the older Cologne Versions of Hermes. Eau d'Hermes is a different story of course.
But I happen to own
(1) Eau d'Orange Verte 2003-04 (Dimitri's picture) ****
(2) Eau d'Orange Verte 2009 (Dimitri's and Dullah's pictures) **

How to compare classic colognes? One really has to stick the nose onto the skin, which is actually not the idea of any aqua at all! But doing that, I find (1) pleasant, lemony, but also a tad piercing. It seems to have the same herbs added as YSL Pour Homme, another favorite of mine, and lasting. Also owners of Eau Sauvage do not need to also own this Orange Verte, I think.

(2) is a completely different cologne. What is orange here, except for the box? I happen to like black currants very much, so, by lucky accident I enjoy the opening of this one as something different. Sadly, it soon recedes into a grey shadow of the fruit. A spritz of Guerlains AA Pampelune seems to also have been added. Both are newer compounds developed in the labs of the big shots and marketed to quite a number of perfume makers in the past decade, aren't they? All in all a bit meh...

Never having tried the original, I would have to call (1) **** the winner.
 
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gupts

Basenotes Dependent
Aug 6, 2006
Just recently I had an opportunity to buy the Original Hermes Eau de Cologne...this one here....but I didn't as I was already well over my budgeted expenditure on fragrances......Another thing that put me off was the dismally poor longevity......Of course it smells awesome for as long as it lasts but then when you are allocating limited funds amongst a huge array of perfumes, this one just lost out....though admittedly it's quite valuable as a collector's item since it is vintage........
hermes_cologne.jpg
 

DULLAH

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 25, 2007
b9ak1x.jpg


Well, my 25 fl oz "Eau De Cologne Hermes" bottle arrived today, and there's not much citrus left, but what is there is quite mossy, floral, and surprisingly pleasant and sweet, it not only reminds me of a more natural, softer drydown of my 1997 EDOV's drydown, but it reminds me of some other scent as well, I'm not sure if the other scent is a men's or women's, but I know it is an older-style expensive scent, perhaps a feminine guerlain or edt/private creed, but I have smelled it before, in addition to having smelled the light moss/patchouli before, albeit, less natural and soft.

So happy I stumbled into this.
 

DULLAH

Basenotes Dependent
Oct 25, 2007
Eager to further test the 2009 Version.
Nice thing about the new packaging, is the 13.5oz now comes with a pump-spray, like the 6.7's:
yhst-16632634487019_2090_1895565673
 

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