Eau de Cologne formulas

Pears

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2013
The previous thread discussing cologne formulas was deleted for some reason, so I'll paste some traditional eau de cologne formulas here for the original thread starter.

From the site that I previously linked to:

Bergamot oil 27
Lemon oil Sicilian 20
Sweet orange oil 16
Neroli oil 12
Lavender oil French 6
Rosemary oil Spanish 4
Thyme oil white 1
Clove bud oil 1
Petitgrain oil 3
Clary sage oil 2
Benzoin resinoid, siam 1

From the book 'Perfumery and Kindred Arts: A Comprehensive Treatise on Perfumery', by Richard S. Cristiani (1877):

"No. 1. Eau de Cologne. (J. M. Farina.)

Oil of bergamot . . 4 fluid ounces.
lemon . . . 1.5 fluid ounces
neroli, bigarade 3 fluid ounces
rosemary 3 fluid ounces
cloves ... 1/2 fluid ounce
lavender (best) 1/2 fluid ounce
Deodorized alcohol . 2.5 gallons.
Rectified spirit . . 1.5 rectified spirit

"No. 2. Eau de Cologne. (French recipe.)

Oil of neroli (petale) . . 3 ounces.
bergamot . . . 3 ounces
petit-grain . . . 1 ounces
cedrat . . . 3 ounces
orange (Portugal) . . . 5 ounces
rosemary . . . 3
Deodorized spirit. 60 proof. . 5.5 gallons.
Mix well and allow it to rest seven days before
filtering.

"No. 3. Eau de Cologne. (Second quality.)

Oil of bergamot . . . 4 ounces.
lemon. . . . 4 ounces
orange . . 4 ounces
rosemary . . . 3 ounces
neroli (petale) . . 1 ounces
petit-grain . . . 2 ounces
Alcohol, 85 proof. . . . 6 gallons.

"Cologne water is very volatile, and I have found
favor for my own recipes because I have made them
more lasting by adding some fixing ingredient, which
also tends to correct the odor of the fusel oil which
remains in the corn spirit, and is unpleasant.

"No. 4. Eau de Cologne. (Cristiani's.)

Oil of bergamot .... 8 fl. ounces.
cedrat . . . . 4 fl. ounces
rosemary (flowers) . . 4 fl. ounces
neroli, bigarade . . 2 fl. ounces
petit-grain . . . 2 fl. ounces
cloves . . . . 1 fl. ounce
Extract of orange-flower, No. 1
(from pomade) . . .1 pint.
Tincture of ambrette . . 1/4 pint
Tincture of orris . . . 1/4 pint
Deodorized alcohol, 95 . . 6 gallons.
Orange-flower water, triple . . 1 gallon
This has given general satisfaction, as it approaches
in odor many of the most celebrated German colognes.

"Cologne Oil. (Cristiani's Cologne Essence.)

Oil of rosemary (flowers) . . 8 ounces.
bergamot , . . . 8ounces.
orange (Portugal) . . 6 ounces.
lemon . . . . 4 ounces.
cedrat . . . . 4 ounces.
neroli (petale) . . . 4 ounces.
petit-grain . . . 4 ounces.
lavender (best) . . 2 ounces.
cloves . . . . 2 ounces
Alcohol, 95 proof.... 5.5 pints.
Four ounces of this essence in 7 pints of alcohol
and 1 pint of orange-flower water, will make a good
cologne water suited to the wants of American
buyers."

https://archive.org/stream/perfumeryandkin00crisgoog#page/n118/mode/2up
 
Last edited:

Pears

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2013
As an additional note, cedrat is the French name for citron (Citrus medica).
 
Last edited:

Nasenmann

Well-known member
Aug 16, 2010
Many thanks for posting these! Personally I'm not a traditional cologne guy but I absolutely like knowing how they are constructed.
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
Given the traditional aspect, and that they can all feature as EO's, I'd estimate EOs.

Edit: Do we reckon it's fl oz mentioned or oz?

It seems that most of these formulas are measured fluid.
Just read them again and you will note that.
 

Benz3ne

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2017
It seems that most of these formulas are measured fluid.
Just read them again and you will note that.

Thanks, pkiler. I just didn't want to assume given measurements of oils/viscous fluids are chopped and changed between fluid and solid units.
 

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