Dusita Sample Pass

Bavard

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I am the first stop of three in a Dusita perfume sample pass with Epapsiou and IsoESuperman. The house has five fragrances so far, released in 2015 and 2016. The discovery pack costs about $70 shipped and came in today. Here are the fragrance names and some initial notes:

1. Le Sillage Blanc Eau de Parfum - Orange Blossom, Neroli, Galbanum, Patchouli, Oakmoss - Reportedly inspired by Bandit;

2. Issara Parfum - Pine, Herbs, Tonka/Coumarin, Vetiver, Musk, Oakmoss - Smelling the cap reminds me of Dolce & Gabanna Pour Homme;

3. Melodie de L'Amour Parfum - White Flowers, Honey, Musk - Smelling the cap, this is reminding me of a Frederic Malle, maybe Carnal Flower and possibly even Cologne Indelible?;

4. Oudh Infini Parfum - Oud and Rose de Mai - Smelling the cap, I do get the barnyard effect; and

5. La Douceur de Siam Eau de Parfum - Flowers, Thai Chalood Bark? - The cap smells funky, but intriguing.
 

purecaramel

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Nov 9, 2013
I am the first stop of three in a Dusita perfume sample pass with Epapsiou and IsoESuperman. The house has five fragrances so far, released in 2015 and 2016. The discovery pack costs about $70 shipped and came in today. Here are the fragrance names and some initial notes:

1. Le Sillage Blanc Eau de Parfum - Orange Blossom, Neroli, Galbanum, Patchouli, Oakmoss - Reportedly inspired by Bandit;

2. Issara Parfum - Pine, Herbs, Tonka/Coumarin, Vetiver, Musk, Oakmoss - Smelling the cap reminds me of Dolce & Gabanna Pour Homme;

3. Melodie de L'Amour Parfum - White Flowers, Honey, Musk - Smelling the cap, this is reminding me of a Frederic Malle, maybe Cologne Indelible?;

4. Oudh Infini Parfum - Oud and Rose de Mai - Smelling the cap, I do get the barnyard effect; and

5. La Douceur de Siam Eau de Parfum - Flowers, Thai Chalood Bark? - The cap smells funky, but intriguing.

I really like them all.

Faves though are La Douceur de Siam and Le Sillage Blanc. Hope you all enjoy them.
 

purecaramel

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Nov 9, 2013
Hahaha.
If I can recall, it was purecaramel's description of Oud Infini that gave me a nightmare :bath:.

Have fun guys!


LOL!!

Oud Infini is an eye roller surely.

With Le Sillage Blanc and Le Douceur Siam, just a little more wearable daily.

I don't smoke intoxicants, however I love the scent of Ganja, Opium and such Le Sillage Blanc satisfies.

Le Douceur has a Chanel style Sandalwood creaminess that wafts through most charmingly. It can be picked up in Oud Infini also!

I will pick up all five over time. Starting with Le Sillage Blanc.
 

Bavard

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Le Douceur has a Chanel style Sandalwood creaminess that wafts through most charmingly. It can be picked up in Oud Infini also!

For wearings, I have started this morning with La Douceur de Siam, and I like it. The funk I was getting from the cap is blending well with skin, and the flowers are predominant in the early development. The smell of florals over sandalwood also reminds me of Chanel.
 

purecaramel

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Nov 9, 2013
For wearings, I have started this morning with La Douceur de Siam, and I like it. The funk I was getting from the cap is blending well with skin, and the flowers are predominant in the early development. The smell of florals over sandalwood also reminds me of Chanel.

I am joining Bavard today, with a dose of La Douceur de Siam.
 

Bavard

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I've been wearing some Sillage Blanc before bedtime. It smells green, not white, and it's well done with contrasting aspects of a nose-catching, sharp green and a smoother, warmer background.
 

Bavard

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I am trying Melodie de L'Amour. It's smells like a straightforward tuberose fragrance, at least early on, which is nice. I like tuberose, and this has a nice balance.
 

purecaramel

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Nov 9, 2013
Everything sounds delish so far, Bavard. Looking forward to all of them, but especially Issara (for wearability), Sillage Blanc (Bandit intrigue), and Oud Infini (all the mental imagery others have conjured - silk socks and dung!).

Issara is likely to appeal as it is classic Fougere.

Something about the Dusita's offerings. They seem to be simple and identifiable in structure, however the way they speak, is in Voluminous whispers.
In Oud Infini and La Douceur I identify a Chanel Rosey Sandalwood interweave. There is an overall feel of Butteriness. I find them all quite beautiful.

I choose to view them outside of their cost, however I am likely to, purchase full bottles of Le Sillage Blanc and La Douceur and small draws of the rest.

ClaireV's Oud Infini observation will have me laughing for ever. It hits the Bull's Eye, although I would say that it is most like Goat's Dung for those who may be connoisseurs.
 

Bavard

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I'm trying Oudh Infini. I prefer oud perfumes that smells like real oud, so I like this one, and it is wrapped in sweet, delicate goodness to make the barnyard oud go down smooth - impressively done.
 

cytherian

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Nov 24, 2013
Very interesting -- wish I'd known about this sooner. :)

I bought samples of Oudh Infini and Issara. Oudh Infini is beautiful... but appears to have changed. What prompted me to get them was a very small sample of Oudh Infini. Color difference is rather striking. I'll post a photo later.
 

Bavard

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Very interesting -- wish I'd known about this sooner. :)

I bought samples of Oudh Infini and Issara. Oudh Infini is beautiful... but appears to have changed. What prompted me to get them was a very small sample of Oudh Infini. Color difference is rather striking. I'll post a photo later.

The samples are 3 ml, and I can use around 1 ml to sample, so I thought about keeping it to three people, but definitely grab a couple friends and join in.

I'm trying Issara now. I'm less excited about it than the others. My initial impression that it smelled a bit like Dolce and Gabanna Pour Homme has faded, somewhat. I can still smell a connection, it's just not leaping up at me anymore.

I'm neutral on this one.

Having worn all five now:

5. Issara Parfum - Nothing too exciting on my skin. It has a nice accord, unisex leaning feminine, but there's something in the mix that is holding me back from fully embracing it. I feel like I'm missing an appreciation for what she was trying to accomplish with this.

4. Le Sillage Blanc Eau de Parfum - Reportedly inspired by Bandit, but not that much like Bandit. It has a strong green note on top underlain by a lovely, warm inviting base. Thumbs up, but I don't love the green note, although I could grow to.

3. Oudh Infini Parfum - Barnyard oud done elegantly. To me, much better than Dior Leather Oud, to name one oud fragrance I find challenging. Compared to Frederic Malle The Night, Oudh Infini isn't as strong, and doesn't smell as strongly of cheese, but they are related fragrances to my nose.

2. La Douceur de Siam Eau de Parfum - This perfume gave me a positive impression of the line. It's a nice rose perfume that uses what smells to me like an accord typically marketed as oud, but uses it with no mention of oud, which I appreciate, and just uses a light dose of it to make a more interesting rose perfume, and to have an entry in the rose-fake oud market; in addition Oud Infini in the rose-real oud market.

1. Melodie de L'Amour Parfum - To me, this is a really well done tuberose fragrance. I've tried four or five tuberose fragrances, and this is my favorite. The performance on my skin was fantastic, and I was most excited about this one from the line. It kept giving me good moments hours after application in a way that surprised and impressed me, and this is the one I think I would get if I were to get a bottle. Oud Infini would also be tempting because there's always so much talk about oud; but just based on my experience wearing the perfumes, I enjoyed this one even more than Oudh Infini and La Douceur de Siam.
 

purecaramel

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Nov 9, 2013
Very interesting -- wish I'd known about this sooner. :)

I bought samples of Oudh Infini and Issara. Oudh Infini is beautiful... but appears to have changed. What prompted me to get them was a very small sample of Oudh Infini. Color difference is rather striking. I'll post a photo later.

I'll send you a PM in regards to colour difference.
 

cytherian

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Nov 24, 2013


Click on thumbnail for larger photo. Slight difference... I find the darker sample to be a little sweeter, richer. I would have preferred more of that, rather than the newer one.
 

Bavard

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Can't wait to sample

These have shipped. I indulged in tiny spritzes of all five before I packed them. La Douceur de Siam had a nice final wearing. I'm curious to read sampling notes on that one.
 

epapsiou

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Sep 28, 2015
Got it and I did initial whiffs. They are all nice well blended frags. Like stuff used to be in the good old days of yore.

Sillage Blanc- Green Glabanum. Reminded me of the 'bite of spring' green sample pass we did. It is very similar to one of them (either vent Vert or weil). Nothing original here but well done. Galbanum is my nemesis so this is a pass.

Issara - I like this one more. As bavard said , it has similarity to The One. The base is Creedish (Ambergris perhaps). Easy to wear. Again well done but this is how all frags should be. A shame that they want $300 for 50ml for a frag that would be considered regular designer a couple decades ago. But then if Sauvage can sell for $100 , $300 is fair. I will pass

There is a reason we are vintage lovers. To get same quality these days you have to pay up many times more.
 

Bavard

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Got it and I did initial whiffs. They are all nice well blended frags. Like stuff used to be in the good old days of yore.

Sillage Blanc- Green Glabanum. Reminded me of the 'bite of spring' green sample pass we did. It is very similar to one of them (either vent Vert or weil). Nothing original here but well done. Galbanum is my nemesis so this is a pass.

Issara - I like this one more. As bavard said , it has similarity to The One. The base is Creedish (Ambergris perhaps). Easy to wear. Again well done but this is how all frags should be. A shame that they want $300 for 50ml for a frag that would be considered regular designer a couple decades ago. But then if Sauvage can sell for $100 , $300 is fair. I will pass

There is a reason we are vintage lovers. To get same quality these days you have to pay up many times more.

On Sillage Blanc, I completely agree. I was in the bite of spring green sample pass, and Sillage Blanc would have been perfect for that.

On Issara, I said it was like the regular D&G Pour Homme - almost lemon to my nose. For vintage versus current, I think vintage D&G Pour Homme smells more substantial, but I agree that Issara does enough to make a conversation of it.
 

epapsiou

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Sep 28, 2015
On Sillage Blanc, I completely agree. I was in the bite of spring green sample pass, and Sillage Blanc would have been perfect for that.

On Issara, I said it was like the regular D&G Pour Homme - almost lemon to my nose. For vintage versus current, I think vintage D&G Pour Homme smells more substantial, but I agree that Issara does enough to make a conversation of it.

What has been bothering me is that these new good niche houses like Auphorie and Dusita are making stuff that is decent. Stuff that would be released regularly by caron or molinard or dior etc a few decades ago. And now this is called niche and amazing and demands an arm and leg.
Where did it all go so wrong?
 

Bavard

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What has been bothering me is that these new good niche houses like Auphorie and Dusita are making stuff that is decent. Stuff that would be released regularly by caron or molinard or dior etc a few decades ago. And now this is called niche and amazing and demands an arm and leg.
Where did it all go so wrong?

After reading this post, I started thinking of the line as having two styles:

Classic
Issara
Le Sillage Blanc
Melodie de L'Amour

Modern
La Douceur de Siam Eau de Parfum
Oudh Infini

For perfumes in a classic style, older releases with more pronounced oak moss and animalics are hard to beat. Melodie de L'Amour, though, suffers no ill effects from ingredient restrictions that my nose could detect.

Where the line caught my interest more was in the modern style, where the perfumer seems to be doing her best work.
 

purecaramel

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Nov 9, 2013
What has been bothering me is that these new good niche houses like Auphorie and Dusita are making stuff that is decent. Stuff that would be released regularly by caron or molinard or dior etc a few decades ago. And now this is called niche and amazing and demands an arm and leg.
Where did it all go so wrong?

I agree.
Smaller batching of Niche has the opportunity of varying quality over time. With that, it provides room for something superlative and by same token something not so much.
The big houses have the advantage of ingredients stable, through a longer period. Synthetics provide greater control of variation as does volume purchasing. However, I think the big houses are going the way of American automobile in the 70's. The Japanese took over in quality by purchasing of smaller batches of parts for the fleet. That way they were able to identify failing ingredients and replace quickly.
I think Dior got stuck with a contract to purchase low Quality Ambroxen into the next century, therefore they need to produce something like say, well....Sauvage.
 

purecaramel

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Nov 9, 2013
I would agree with all that you say. Vintage Classics have a Vibrancy, Billow and Magic that was in part ingredient and another in vision of striving for a certain competitive quality.
Your grading of these scents by Classic and Modern is astute.
What I am taken with in the Dusita offerings is care and energy put into composition, with an eye to Beauty.
Interesting that the Modern offerings have, to my mind, the Chanel-esque Rosy Sandalwood accord that I find so captivating.

There is a possibility of batch variation, at least with Oud Infini. Cytherian and I have had some discussion of that.
 

epapsiou

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Sep 28, 2015
La Douceur de Siam :
A very nice rose.Much like the current rose-oud ones . Ex-Idolo , Tiziana Rose, Montale.
Sure it may have no oud but the heft and complexity is made up by SW,Amber and spices.
I like this one
Idolo 33>this>Terenzi

Again the price makes for an easy decision.



Mélodie de L'Amour:

Old school indolic white floral.
Reminds me of old feminine by Patou. Maybe 1000.
Also similar to one of the Amouges I tried at Bergdorf: Gold or 25.

For folks who love vintage indolic white flower frags this is great. I am not a big fan of that style.
 

Bavard

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I would agree with all that you say. Vintage Classics have a Vibrancy, Billow and Magic that was in part ingredient and another in vision of striving for a certain competitive quality.
Your grading of these scents by Classic and Modern is astute.
What I am taken with in the Dusita offerings is care and energy put into composition, with an eye to Beauty.
Interesting that the Modern offerings have, to my mind, the Chanel-esque Rosy Sandalwood accord that I find so captivating.

There is a possibility of batch variation, at least with Oud Infini. Cytherian and I have had some discussion of that.

The base of Oud Infini is good. I remember being surprised how wearable it started to feel, perhaps from the sandalwood accord.

For La Douceur de Siam, I remember the development for the rose becoming more prominent.

I'm on the lookout for Epapsiou's smelling notes for Oud Infini.
 

epapsiou

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Sep 28, 2015
Oud infini:

So it is how a cowshed will smell when you walk in there with a bouquet of rose.
Too barnyardy (fecal-y) for my taste.

It does last and develops and after a few hours becomes better.

I prefer the woody honeyed oud. This is a pass

My son tried this and said - smells like horse Poopsie
 

IsoESuperman

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I just got home and received the samples from epapsiou. Thanks E! :)

Provided I have time later, will hopefully get to dig into one - probably Oud Infini, because when I opened the container I got a blast of some dirty animalic goodness.

In the meantime: errands, volunteer GIS stuff, and arguing with the Subaru dealership...some good old fashioned he said, she said/I know we quoted you X but it's actually X^2. Good times. Chewing mastic tears (resin) and wearing Ambre Sultan to calm me down.
 

IsoESuperman

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I think the format I'm going to follow is give first impressions with the initial wearing for each as I go through them. Then a summary will follow after I've tried them all a second time.

First go: Melodie de L'Amour Parfum (haven't looked at notes yet)

This is the Stannis Baratheon of indolic perfumes. It's not king, but it believes it has that throne by rights and it's going to make a damn concerted effort to take it. Indoles, indoles, and some rubbery, raw indoles. Maybe that's a bit dramatic, because I seem to smell something like orange blossom (something sweet and floral) and some other type of non-jasmine non-tuberose but can't put my finger on what it is...it also seems white. I'd say the powerful white floral component here is 39% tuberose 41% jasmine, and ~20% whatever else is there that I cannot identify. The intensity of the tuberose here is both equal to and smells similar to that of Voyance from Baruti, in case anyone has smelled that. It comes off as rubbery and...I don't know, something almost cooling, in a thick, gelatinous (the viscosity of warm Brie), minty way, but smells nothing like mint. I guess I'm just describing how I experience indoles, and this has that vibe in spades. The GF says "Smells okay". Same reaction for 99% of what I ask her to sniff. Going to try to get her take on all these if she's around when I'm testing, just for the heck of it. I think think this is well done, because this amount of jasmine/tuberose would usually gross me out, but I keep sniffing it over and over. I'd never buy this, but I am impressed by the composition. It seems to tread a fine line between being almost way too much but reels it in just before that precipice. So far, so good.
 

IsoESuperman

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Issara

Well this is nice. Front loaded with coumarin, or what I assume is something like coumarin as I seem to get a dusty, honeyed, straw-like tobacco impression. It opens up with that coumarin sweetness and a coniferous accord that has fougere written all over it. Has a bit of the "crisp white shirt" vibe - breezy, dusty, clean. Hard to find anything I dislike about it (although the sweetness could be dialed back a bit) but it's by no means exciting. Nicely put together for sure and smells nice, but not making the wish-list anytime soon.
 

Bavard

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Issara

Well this is nice. Front loaded with coumarin, or what I assume is something like coumarin as I seem to get a dusty, honeyed, straw-like tobacco impression. It opens up with that coumarin sweetness and a coniferous accord that has fougere written all over it. Has a bit of the "crisp white shirt" vibe - breezy, dusty, clean. Hard to find anything I dislike about it (although the sweetness could be dialed back a bit) but it's by no means exciting. Nicely put together for sure and smells nice, but not making the wish-list anytime soon.

I agree that Issara is a good match for a crisp white shirt.
 

epapsiou

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Sep 28, 2015
Issara

Well this is nice. Front loaded with coumarin, or what I assume is something like coumarin as I seem to get a dusty, honeyed, straw-like tobacco impression. It opens up with that coumarin sweetness and a coniferous accord that has fougere written all over it. Has a bit of the "crisp white shirt" vibe - breezy, dusty, clean. Hard to find anything I dislike about it (although the sweetness could be dialed back a bit) but it's by no means exciting. Nicely put together for sure and smells nice, but not making the wish-list anytime soon.
Does this one have real ambergris?
For the price I find Dusita's offerings lacking.
 

IsoESuperman

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I agree that Issara is a good match for a crisp white shirt.

I enjoyed wearing it, nice presence throughout the day. I put 3 sprays on my hand in the morning around 0630, two more around 1300 and it is still obviously there if I exhale on it and sniff, although quite attenuated. I clearly need to shower :)

Does this one have real ambergris?
For the price I find Dusita's offerings lacking.

The only thing I have that is said to contain real ambergris is the Badr Al Badour attar, but there is a load of rose and oud in with it, so I'm not sure I can really isolate it that well. But if I had to wager a guess, I would say Issara probably does not contain real ambergris - mainly because of sourcing it consistently and keeping each production the same. Perhaps if it is intended to be a limited release and she had some ambergris tincture (or whatever form is used) then maybe. I'll say this though, if it is in there, I feel like it is being wasted, buried under coumarin and the other notes.

~Today:

La Douceur de Siam

Put this on about 5 hours ago. It is a nice, bright, happy floral rose scent. The only other floral I can pick out is the ylang, with its heavy tropical fruit punch/candied feel - here used with a deft hand and not overwhelming at all. I broke out my champaca CO2 to refresh my memory but didn't seem to detect any here, although I'm smelling it undiluted. There is a crisp vegetal greenness and a sweetness here, the former presumably coming from violet leaf and the latter seeming like a mix of ylang and amber/vanilla. I don't pick up on any cloves, which I think might be for the best and while I do like me a good clove note, I feel it might present itself as discordant in this bright happy floral fragrance.

Overall, quite nice. I'm a big fan of all things rose and this is a solid offering. Well-blended, materials again seem to be of high quality and it's just uplifting and pretty. It's unseasonably warm here today and the island was shrouded in thick fog until about 25 minutes ago, the sun broke through and it feels like the first day of spring. Going to throw another few sprays of this on and go for a hike with the dog.

I think this is my favorite so far, but I own enough rose scents so probably wouldn't spring for this one.
 

IsoESuperman

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Earlier today I wore Dusita number 4 of 5: Le Sillage Blanc

The one I was most excited for, from reading the descriptions. Or rather, the one I thought I'd like the best - truth be told, I'm most excited about Oud Infini "dung strained through a silk stocking" and saving it for last. Sounds nigh unwearable, but intriguing. As far as Le Sillage Blanc though, both the pyramid (with Neroli, Tobacco, Galbanum, Leather, Ambrette, and Oakmoss, to name a few) and the fact that it was supposedly inspired by Bandit set the bar pretty high.

Well, it came fairly close to my expectations, which I admit might have been a tad unreasonable. To get the Bandit thing out of the way, it very well may have been inspired by it but it smells nothing like Bandit. That's fine, Bandit should be Bandit and Le Sillage Blanc should be itself. And itself is very nice and easy to wear. What I got was a crisp, fresh, green fragrance. Galbanum with its green bitterness, fresh neroli, and a light sweet floral note (orange blossom?) set the tone right off the bat. The opening is more like Le Sillage Vert, but I do think this is another "crisp white shirt" fragrance...maybe slightly less formal than Issara, though. It was really windy today and I was outside for the first hour of wearing this. It might have sped up the process because after about 15 minutes it seemed to chance a noticeable amount and develop a smoky/leathery heart along with some patchouli that really changed the tone. Gone was the sweet floral component and on came the galbanum/leather pairing. Much more body here, bitter and dry.

It basically goes on like that until the end, revealing a mossy base eventually, which along with the leather and bitter greens creates a really polished, classic masculine accord. Good stuff. I didn't really detect any tobacco, but what was there I really liked. I think I enjoyed Issara more, which surprised me as I'll normally take bitter green over sweet any day, but the nose wants what it wants.

This one will not be retested, as the sample sprayer had a wayward history of leakage. But I did manage 3.5 solid blasts onto my hand, so I did get a good feel for it.
 

IsoESuperman

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Nice progress. Nothing is flooring you.

Nope, nothing flooring yet, no fever. La Douceur de Siam and Issara were quite nice, Le Sillage Blanc also well made and fun to wear, but nothing yet has truly excited me. I did sniff the cap of Oud Infini and it seems promisingly cozy, but I will find out for sure tonight. I considered wearing it to work today, but I have an unusual amount of meetings today so I thought it best hold off.

I like the aesthetic of the house, targeted ideas and materials that smell of quality, but nothing has really wowed me. I'm okay with that, considering what loving any would do to my wallet.
 

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